Leveled by lowering the back 2” lets see your reverse level rides!

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18CrewDually

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2018
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Cummins 6.7 H.O.
I lowered the back simply by moving the spring plates from between the axle, up to the top of the spring pack. The back end use to be over 2" higher than it is now. Leveled it perfectly and since I have rear airbags adjustable on-the-fly I keep it level when I hook to one of the gooseneck or fifth wheel trailers.
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REDinAZ

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2017 Crew
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5.7 2wd 3.92
Just an FYI, I want to THANK everyone on this thread/forum for their info and ideas of doing the leveling. That's a '17 1500 2wd Crew Cab that I did the project on. It is DEFINITELY a DIY job if you have the tools in the garage, now having completed it myself, I wouldn't have ever paid anybody to do it (getting the inner fender guards in and out are just about the only annoying part of the project, well that and having to cut a 21MM wrench down to a stub). FWIW I went 2 extra steps other than just Pro Suspension 272920 coil spring install. I took Belltech up on their shorter 2214FF Street Performance shock for slightly lowered trucks. And a tip for anyone and everyone on here with the sway bar issue that arises. RockAuto of course has a bazillion Chrysler parts on there, so I sat and referenced vehicle rear end links for quite a bit of time and realized the Jeep Commander '06-'10 used the EXACT style link as our RAM, they are just shorter length (-1 3/4"). MOOG's K80468 link would be an exact example of something you could use. Installing a set levels the sway bar out perfectly again, without having to spend serious coin on "adjustable links", which are nice, but I just was convinced unnecessary if I could figure a $reasonable$ work around. Anyway, something I successfully attempted and wanted to contribute here, I hadn't seen that solution preposed around here yet.

While I was back there I figured I'd drain and refill the diff. 14mm HEX socket removes the drain plug on lower right, and that upper witness hole is a hand removable rubber piece. Buying 3 quarts of 75w140 (with friction modifier if needed) covers it.

RED

(as of yet haven't removed or trimmed the bump stops...picture will give you an idea of their clearance between the axle, FYI picture is with the truck on ground)
 

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REDinAZ

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2017 Crew
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Took first long interstate drive with the new set-up (drove 1000 miles in one day) and truck was very compliant and the ride was terrific. Wasn't towing but had about a grand on board between occupants and tools/gear in truck bed...
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BuschLatte420

chill water by day, drink beer by night
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WNY
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2022 classic tradesmen crew cab 6’4 box
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5.7L NON E-TORQUE 3.92 gears 4x4
It is the same as driving around with a load in the bed causing the rear to drop 2”. I don't see how that could affect the mpg any.
No it isn’t a load in the bed = truck working harder = less mpg, this is more aerodynamic
 

rick1201

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delaware
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2017
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hemi 5.7
I like the looks of the 2" drop in the rear to level everything out. To those who have done this, have you also had to adjust the headlight aim. No big deal but I am just curious.

Rick
 

REDinAZ

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I like the looks of the 2" drop in the rear to level everything out. To those who have done this, have you also had to adjust the headlight aim. No big deal but I am just curious.

Rick
I haven't. Haven't had any other driver flash me because my low beams were annoying them.
 

Wild one

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I like the looks of the 2" drop in the rear to level everything out. To those who have done this, have you also had to adjust the headlight aim. No big deal but I am just curious.

Rick
Rams are notorious for leaving the factory with the headlight aim set on the low side,and a 2" rear drop brings them more into line with where they should be.From what i've gathered up,they're purposely set low to compensate for a load in the box and the truck squats slightly
 

Canadian-Hemi

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Ontario, Canada
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2016 Shorty (RCSB)
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5.7 L
I need a little help. My plan is to lower my 2016 RCSB 2" in the rear. The problem I see is that most manufacturer have a disclaimer with how much there springs will lower a RCSB. So I've come here to ask those in the know. Also note I do not tow and need a Canadian supplier (Customs and ****).
 
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