Levelling or 3” lift that rides as close to stock as possible

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dgarber12771

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There you go! ... If you can actually "switch out the studs for short ones do that instead" ... I personally would never cut down the OEM studs, I had customers get angry more times than I can remember because we refused to cut their studs to add wheel spacers lol ...

and honestly we never ever included the wheel spacers in the prinouts when they got work done to avoid legal problems ... if they really wanted the wheel spacers they paid for that work in cash and there was never any paper or electronic trail that the shop did it ...

There was zero possibility of me grinding/cutting my wheel studs. In fact I had a set in my checkout cart in case they were needed.

And if I had a shop, I'd operate the same way with regards to spacers. It's one thing for me to trust them as I'm the one who installed them, and I know how they're being used. But on a paying customers ride, that god knows what will be done once it leaves the shop? Cash only, or install 'em yourself.
 
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There was zero possibility of me grinding/cutting my wheel studs. In fact I had a set in my checkout cart in case they were needed.

And if I had a shop, I'd operate the same way with regards to spacers. It's one thing for me to trust them as I'm the one who installed them, and I know how they're being used. But on a paying customers ride, that god knows what will be done once it leaves the shop? Cash only, or install 'em yourself.
Yes, so many times we successfully talked customers out of using spacers and just saving money to get he correct offset to do things right ... just such a sketchy thing to do in my honest opinion, I have the 7" maxtrac lift kit and I want to add a 1" coil spring spacer to really level my front end and I know I can do it, or "CAN" be done, but do I really want to increase the risks of something bad happening?

Spacers should always be the last thing to do especially with wheels ...
 

NOV87

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Agree with the above, stay away from spacers. Get the assembled coilovers. If not, have a trustworthy shop assemble them for you.
 

mopar68

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Hello all,

I’ve seen a lot of posts that hit on this topic but often don’t 100% apply to what I’m looking for here, or go off onto a tangent that is completely off the trail of the info I’m looking for, so I’ll try to be as accurate and detailed in my question as I can be to avoid confusion or having this too closely related to previous posts.

I’m looking into a levelling kit or small 3” lift kit for my Ram 1500 Classic - 4x4 5.7L gas - crew cab 5’6” regular bed - stock 20” wheels with stock tire size.

After a level or small lift I MIGHT use some 1.5” to 2” max wheel spacers to get the wheels a little further out and aggressive looking, of course with quality hub-centric parts.

Specifically I want it to have as close to factory ride quality as possible, not rough, no issues over bumps on the highway/freeway etc. and I want to avoid ‘pucks” above the strut and more specifically, avoid the pre tension spacers that go between the spring and strut hat.

I’ve read good and terrible reviews of the Rough Country N3 drop in strut assembly with spring units and 3” lift kit (their sku #31231) and I’ve heard good things about the Bilstein 5100 and even better, 6112 complete strut assemblies. I’m not rich so I don’t want recommendations of $4000+ suspension kits, but I also know that you get what you pay for, and cheap kits or components often lack quality and result in a harsh ride, components failing and disappointment in the end.

Also I will be using changed out UCA’s (upper control arms with angle correct ball joints) whether with a kit or separately like the ‘Zone’ UCA’s for example.

So I’m curious who has used which kit or components together to achieve a levelled ride height, or even up to a 3” lift and level ride height (within 1/2” front to back - like 3” front and 1” rear lift) and which parts ride the smoothest and closest to factory feel when driving.

I absolutely do NOT want to end up with a harsh ride, noises, creaking or clicking, sketchy behaviour when hitting dips, bumps, uneven roads etc. if that’s the trade off, I won’t do anything at all and leave the truck stock, not worth all those issues for a better ‘look’ and slightly taller ride height.

(PS I cannot go any higher than a 3” lift or the truck won’t fit in my garage, which is a necessity for me/us since our outdoor parking spot is flanked by an old guy who cannot park straight or between two painted lines to save his life, and a big dually tow truck that hugs the line on the other side of our spot. That’s why our 2008 Dodge caravan is parked there lol, at least we can still get in and out no matter how the neighbours park, and I don’t care if their door hits the van lol!!!)

Thanks for any info, tips, reviews and pointing me in the right direction ahead of time.

Cheers all!
 

mopar68

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I just installed Fox 2.5 shocks that were adjustable for the front. I have air in the rear. 2014 Outdoorsman
 

Quick_Shifter

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I just installed Fox 2.5 shocks that were adjustable for the front. I have air in the rear. 2014 Outdoorsman
Share pictures of those sexy beasts
 
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OP
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El_Lobo_Gris1500C

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I’m kind of leaning towards the ReadyLift 4” SST kit at the moment, the Bilstein front 6112’s with the rear shocks would be around $1400 - $1600 just for the parts, then add on the UCA’s from either readylift or zone adds another like $500-$800, then labour on top of that plus alignment. That’s more than I’ll likely have to do this project.

The ReadyLift 4” kit runs about $1280 (Canadian dollars) plus labour and alignment. I got one quote so far for $1900 installed by one shop semi local to me, awaiting a few other shop quotes to compare and figure out where I may get it done when that time comes.
 

Quick_Shifter

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I’m kind of leaning towards the ReadyLift 4” SST kit at the moment, the Bilstein front 6112’s with the rear shocks would be around $1400 - $1600 just for the parts, then add on the UCA’s from either readylift or zone adds another like $500-$800, then labour on top of that plus alignment. That’s more than I’ll likely have to do this project.

The ReadyLift 4” kit runs about $1280 (Canadian dollars) plus labour and alignment. I got one quote so far for $1900 installed by one shop semi local to me, awaiting a few other shop quotes to compare and figure out where I may get it done when that time comes.
The readylift kit comes with control arms. So you will not need another set. Readylift clearly states not for offroad use but the kit is fine as long as the shop can read the directions. A lot of shops screw that kit up and lift stacking takes place inadvertently or just carelessly we fix a lot of them.
 

healthyrx

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If you're in canda, reach out to https://airdelete.com/shop
I've seen them mentioned on another post. Looks like they sell kits to get rid of air bag suspension but I cant imagine its all that different from a regular lift. No harm reaching out to them to see if the products they sell would work for your purposes.
 

healthyrx

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Oh man ... readylift is another lift kit "I" wouldn't even consider ..... But your money @El_Lobo_Gris1500C ... good luck !
Agreed.. while they do make some stuff that works in some applications.. IFS vehicles are waaaay too finicky for large spacer lifts.
I had a lifted toyota 4runner a year and a half ago, and similar to on this forum, everybody that got large spacer style lifts regretted their decision quickly and wanted to find a way to fix it by going with bilsteins or similar
 

cashman070

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Let’s keep it very simple.
If you go to 3” you would need to raise the rear (more money) you don’t want “level” on a 4th gen because the hood is higher than the bed rail. So it lands nose high when level.
You have done a phenomenal job reading and doing your own research so you have looked at pricing, it’s going to come down to your budget. How much are you looking to spend?

I wouldn’t touch rough country anything even if you have it to me for free. It’s all a waste of time and money so I wouldn’t bother. (I fix and replace rc stuff all the time so I’m not just hating the brand)
Hey Quick_Shifter,

Been reading your replies on this topic and am looking for advice - I levelled my 4th gen (2016 Laramie Longhorn) with Bilstein's 5100 set at 2.8 along with Bilstein's 5100 in the rear. I now need to upgrade my rear coils - any load I put in I am bulldogging - so I have looked at TufTruck TTC-1211 however now I read about the Superlift SL-140 2" lift rear coils and then someone mentioned the Mopar 2" lift I looked at that and see parts ie bump stop extension and parking brake relocation is this all necessary? Also there was a link to a rear track bar relocation - my head is spinning. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
 

Quick_Shifter

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@El_Lobo_Gris1500C
Hey Quick_Shifter,

Been reading your replies on this topic and am looking for advice - I levelled my 4th gen (2016 Laramie Longhorn) with Bilstein's 5100 set at 2.8 along with Bilstein's 5100 in the rear. I now need to upgrade my rear coils - any load I put in I am bulldogging - so I have looked at TufTruck TTC-1211 however now I read about the Superlift SL-140 2" lift rear coils and then someone mentioned the Mopar 2" lift I looked at that and see parts ie bump stop extension and parking brake relocation is this all necessary? Also there was a link to a rear track bar relocation - my head is spinning. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
Can you post a picture of your truck and your measurements? We can certainly get you dialed in. Their are plenty of options out there
 
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