Lifter failure!

EdGs

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Glad you found the culprit.

It is really mind-blowing that so many people have had their exhaust manifold bolts break.

Once you've had it fixed, you will be amazed how many other Rams you hear that have the same issue.
 

Captain Bart

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Well, all I have found thus far, is a heat shield thats no longer attached. I can't see up in there so I don't really know how it attaches? Is it sandwiched to the exhaust manifold, by the nut that tightens tonthe stud? OR is it mounted by separate fasteners?
 

Captain Bart

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Can I assume that the outer manifold bolts break, as the cheap manifold warps like a banana....and the shield mounts to the 2 outer studs?
 

islandboybc1

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2019 Classic 5.7 , 6ooo ks , right rear tick on start up for 4 to 8 seconds. Every first start up.
what brand of engine oil do us Dodge Boys use ?
first hemi, had two Cummins prior,
im up here on Vancouver island, BC, Canada.

is it possible to replace the oil pump to a higher volume to push more oil to the back of the engine To compensate for the higher cam placement? Just asking . Thank you
 

John Schmidt

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Just change the oil. Keep the oil filter in place and change the oil. I did that a few times and my lifter symphony went away. I have come to the conclusion that it is the newer oils breaking down in our Hemi motors sooner than anyone wants to admit.
I used PUP 5W20 as recommended and sometimes the lifter singing would start before 2000 miles were put on the oil change. PUP 5W30 would go a little longer, but would never reach 3000 miles on the oil change. Listening to the people on this forum, I have done 50:50 mix of PUP 5W30 and Red Line 5W30 or QSUD 5W30 and Red Line 5W30 and either a Royal Purple or Mobil 1 oil filter. I change the oil between 2500 and 3000 miles and leave the filter on for 5000-6000 miles. Never a chirp since using this stragagy, even when the truck sits for a week or two.
The reason I do the shorter OCI is because of the grit and contaminants that accumulate in the oil. The oil may be able to go farther, but it is still loading up with contaminants whether it is synthetic or not. There are too many tight clearances in the Hemi from the bearings in the lifters and the screens in the MDS solenoids. I believe any contaminant that is large enough to slip through a cheaper filter may get caught in these tighter tolerances and help with the lifter/cam siezure.
Bought with 16,000 miles and now have 36,000 quiet miles.
Hi. Do you by chance ever disable MDS/ECO mode when driving using the gear +/- or tow/haul mode?
 

EdGs

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Well, all I have found thus far, is a heat shield thats no longer attached. I can't see up in there so I don't really know how it attaches? Is it sandwiched to the exhaust manifold, by the nut that tightens tonthe stud? OR is it mounted by separate fasteners?
The 4 outermost manifold bolts have a head with a threaded stub sicking out that the heat shield attaches to.

If you feel the underside of the heat shield where the head of the bolt is attached, and you don't feel any of the bolt that goes through the hole in the manifold to attach to the cylinder head, this is best case, and there will be a stub to grab - easy removal.

If you feel the underside of the heat shield and you can feel the bolt still attached, then the manifold bolt is most likely broken flush with the cylinder head. Harder to remove, but not impossible - welding a nut to the bolt at the cylinder head is the best way.

Best of luck with your repair.
 
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EdGs

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You must be registered for see images attach

Here is a set of manifold bolts.

If they break just under the head of the bolt, they are the easiest to remove.

That is why you can feel under the corners of the heat shield and see if the body of the bolt is still attached to the shield. If you can feel the bolt itself, then yours are most likely broken flush with the cylind head.

I lucked out with my '15, because only the top rear bolt broke on each side, and both were broken at the head of the bolt.

Best of luck with yours.
 

Captain Bart

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Encouraging info.! Now, to find a local mechanic with a lift, torches, and welder....who works for cash and Bud....
 

HEMIMANN

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So many have written about Hemi exhaust manifold bolt failures it seems apparent to me it is another design flaw. If it's during warranty period, all Ram will do is keep replacing it with new manifold and bolts, which will then fail again. When they fail outside of warranty, guys fix one of two ways (1) remove and re-plane the warped mounting surface flat, (2) install headers

The problem with waiting for this inevitable failure to occur is it snaps bolt heads off, so you gotta drill out the broken fastener. Not. Fun. It is even worse on 2500 models, as the engine is set deeper into the frame rails, as they are designed primarily to handle the tall Cummins inline 6 cylinder engine - this puts the V8 Hemi exhaust manifold right up against the body sheet metal. Makes me wonder if Ford trucks didn't have the same issue back in the days of the 300cid I6 or 302/351cid V8?
 

Burla

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Never heard of any bolt issues in those old 90's ford forums, drove one for 11 years commuter never needed anything but a transmission under warranty. That was my set it on a fire and I still couldnt take a coup de ville truck. That truck/bronco took everything I threw at it, wheeling in the summer skiing in the winter.
 

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