Lifter tick

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14 Lonestar

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I normally start my truck, 1800 miles with the remote start before I leave the house. Last Friday I started it after I opened the garage door and for about 3 seconds or so I noticed a loud lifter ticking.

I plan on having the oil changed this coming Friday, what I do not understand is why this is happening already on this brand new truck. Very frustrating and disappointing to know that my truck will have to go in the shop, get disassembled and have parts replaced......................this is soooooooooooo not right folks.
 

2012RAM1500RT

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I'm not trying to down play it at all, it can make you nervous hearing a tick in a Hemi with some having issues with cam and lifter. I have 136,000ish miles on mine and I heard a lifter tick for about 5 or so seconds after my last oil change, never done it before and hasn't done it since and that was about 1000 miles ago. Makes me listen for it anytime I start it. It's something I don't think anyone can explain, I've heard many others of all brands do it randomly and think nothing about it (I work on them all) until it happens to your own. I'm not going to let it bother me but I will always listen for it!
 

rojo_143

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The same thing has happened with my 2021 on 3 different occasions all after it has sat for 2 to 3 days with out being started. My 2018 ram I had did it a few times as well but once I started using Penzoil Ultra Platinum and either a high quality filter it never did it again. I am about to do my first oil change on my 21 and am following the same routine I used on my 18 to see if it makes a difference.
 
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14 Lonestar

14 Lonestar

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The truck does it every time on cold start. I know this now because I get in it to start it, no longer using remote start when cold.
 

2012RAM1500RT

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I'd do what rojo_143 suggest just to give it a try, can't hurt since you're going to change it anyway. Hope it works for you.
 

HEMIMANN

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The truck does it every time on cold start. I know this now because I get in it to start it, no longer using remote start when cold.

Use low restriction synthetic medial oil filter. Fram Ultra XG or Royal Purple. Use robust oil with low enough viscosity for quick flow from startup depending on temp (Texas a 5W would suffice in summer) yet stout enough for hot ambient and towing, along with supplemental antiwear additives (moly & ZDDP). Moly coats metal surfaces and doesn't depend on temp to work. ZDDP only activates above a certain temp.

Forum generally settles on Red Line 5W-30. Base oil has polyol ester (jet oil) that clings to metal surfaces. Other oils do not. Yes, it costs more, but do you want your $9,000 engine to fail?
 
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14 Lonestar

14 Lonestar

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Use low restriction synthetic medial oil filter. Fram Ultra XG or Royal Purple. Use robust oil with low enough viscosity for quick flow from startup depending on temp (Texas a 5W would suffice in summer) yet stout enough for hot ambient and towing, along with supplemental antiwear additives (moly & ZDDP). Moly coats metal surfaces and doesn't depend on temp to work. ZDDP only activates above a certain temp.

Forum generally settles on Red Line 5W-30. Base oil has polyol ester (jet oil) that clings to metal surfaces. Other oils do not. Yes, it costs more, but do you want your $9,000 engine to fail?
In my opinion, it has already failed me.
 

Burla

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Hemi tick that loud on a remote start is not good, redline 5w30 and a RP filter. Here is one poll on this lubrication strategy. The cams that fail are often cams that have idled a lot, plus you have hemi tick on top of that, I'd go with EP additives. If you choose something other then redline and it ticks again like this, try poor mans redline, drop a 15 ounce size bottle of lubegard biotech in there, there is a poll rolling around here that also has good success, but redline 5w30 has the best track record.
 
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14 Lonestar

14 Lonestar

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Hemi tick that loud on a remote start is not good, redline 5w30 and a RP filter. Here is one poll on this lubrication strategy. The cams that fail are often cams that have idled a lot, plus you have hemi tick on top of that, I'd go with EP additives. If you choose something other then redline and it ticks again like this, try poor mans redline, drop a 15 ounce size bottle of lubegard biotech in there, there is a poll rolling around here that also has good success, but redline 5w30 has the best track record.
The tick is only there on cold starts after sitting over night, I remotely started it after work today standing right in front of it and there was nothing to hear. Again there are only 1800 miles on the Hemi.
 

Burla

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The tick is only there on cold starts after sitting over night, I remotely started it after work today standing right in front of it and there was nothing to hear. Again there are only 1800 miles on the Hemi.
Redline and lubegard biotech utilize the same moly in approved oils, they just boost the level 5x plus. Read moly basics. So this type of extreme pressure additive is left behind when the oil isn't there if there are sufficient perpendicular forces to leave a plating effect. It isn't a gimmick, or using something like ptfe or silicone, it is just using heavy additives already in your oil plus the best base stocks that money can buy. These base oils give you better performance in cold and hot, see below. Redline base oils line 2 and 5 below. If you go back, read the poll, redline is near 90% effective at killing ticks. The lubegard is pretty close as well, similar science and similar result. Both products leave more additives on the metal when the oil isn't there and the results are the results, all random ram forum members. good luck with it, peace...

7044a_base-oil-types-temperature-range_extra_large.jpg
 

HEMIMANN

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Cool chart @Burla. Where did you find that one?

Interesting observations -
Polyol Esters (Red Line, Jet Oils) have highest temperature application of any oils (except silicone, which isn't a very good lubricant so only used in wild applications such as blast furnace skip car charge ways), hence it's exclusive use in all jet engine bearings.

Polyol Esters are not the lowest temperature application of any oils - Polyalphaolefins (API Group IV "traditional" synthetic oil) are. This is because Polyol Esters have higher density than PAO, being formed by reacting an acid and an alcohol instead of lengthening a hydrocarbon ethylene chain molecule. Yet Polyol Esters are still significantly lower temperature application than conventional mineral oils.

Real world implications for us - Red Line is, without a doubt, the top engine oil for high temp and high load engine applications. Hence it's selection as a racing oil, for a premium price, because it is manufactured from two different chemical. There is no other base oil that performs better at high temp and load. For HEMI engines, it's super higher viscosity index with increasing temperature helps retain film thickness on the poorly-lubricated valve train. An additional benefit is the clinginess of polyol ester to metallic surfaces, helping to retain a lubricant film.

@Burla already discussed the dry film lubricant additive package so I won't belabor. PUP has a good package too, just not as much as Red Line. FCA knows their Gen III HEMI valvetrain is poorly-lubricated, hence their insistence on using PUP.

Because polyol esters are so dense and their flow rate is more affected at cold ambient startup than PAO's, we've recommended changing from Red Line 5W-30 to 0W-30 during winter, and using oversize synthetic oil filters to improve flow rate - but it's also important to use high efficiency oil filters because the valvetrain is sensitive to deposit plugging due to it's marginal design.

This all sounds esoteric and horrible until you get over the fact that these simple changes allow the HEMI to live a long life, whereas clunkers like Ford's "ecoboost" and GM's "AFI" all die premature deaths with nothing you can do about it.
 

Treburkulosis

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Agreed with Burla. Id run some seafoam through the engine before switching. Run Redline or Castrol Edge. Mine did it around 60k. It was loud. I was running Mobil 1 at the time. Ran seafoam through it, switched to Castrol edge and a puraltor boss filter and its never returned. I also at the advice of @Burla added Biotech Lube Guard this time just for added insurance. I just turned 140k and no issues with the tick. Get it solved now. Dont wait. That is what saved mine.
 
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14 Lonestar

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Where can I purchase this Biotech Lube Guard?
 

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14 Lonestar, y0ooou arrre not alooone! (sorry my attempt at humour)​

my 2 month old 1200 mls Longhorn did it to me twice since new, both times for seconds as yours. I took the advice on here, put lubegard in it to see. Not heard it since. Probably been in there for 500 mls? I am now but going to use Penzoil ULTRA Platinum 5w20 and see if that works before i try Redline. I live in the cold snowy belt around Bayfield/Ashland Lake Superior so do not wanna run a thicker oil if I dont have to. Plus it is the warranty aspect I am concerned about. I took a real chance I think throwing that Lubguard in at maybe 700mls but it works! purrs like a kitten!​


Amazon sells it...........

 

HEMIMANN

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14 Lonestar, y0ooou arrre not alooone! (sorry my attempt at humour)​

my 2 month old 1200 mls Longhorn did it to me twice since new, both times for seconds as yours. I took the advice on here, put lubegard in it to see. Not heard it since. Probably been in there for 500 mls? I am now but going to use Penzoil ULTRA Platinum 5w20 and see if that works before i try Redline. I live in the cold snowy belt around Bayfield/Ashland Lake Superior so do not wanna run a thicker oil if I dont have to. Plus it is the warranty aspect I am concerned about. I took a real chance I think throwing that Lubguard in at maybe 700mls but it works! purrs like a kitten!​


Amazon sells it...........

Amazon drop ship packages via chute there?

Glad you found the best Ram Forum on the interweb.
P.S. - Brit humor rules.
 

mikeru

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Almost every one of them does this occasionally. I've even heard brand new trucks with less than 10 miles do this. Made me nervous at first but it's nothing to lose sleep over. All four of the Ram 1500's I've owned have done this until my first oil change. Try switching to Redline motor oil when you change oil on Friday. Many reports of that oil eliminating the start-up tick you described. I've used pennzoil ultra platinum on all of my Ram's and it almost eliminated the issue. I agree that it sucks, but your engine hasn't failed you.
 

EdGs

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My '15 will tick for a few seconds if I have driven to my in-laws house a block and a half away. It happens when I start up to leave, and pretty consistent as well.

It has done it pretty much ever since I have owned it. I have 124k miles on it now, 96k miles put on by me. 3615 hours run / 300 houts idle.

I have always used PP or PUP 5w-20 with Fram XG10060 filter, changing by the OCI, with 15 ozs. of Lubegard Biotek on my last 2 oil changes.

I am debating about trying the Redline 5w-20 or 5w-30 on the next go-round, but am not feeling the love for paying the $80 to $100 for the oil.
 

HEMIMANN

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My '15 will tick for a few seconds if I have driven to my in-laws house a block and a half away. It happens when I start up to leave, and pretty consistent as well.

It has done it pretty much ever since I have owned it. I have 124k miles on it now, 96k miles put on by me. 3615 hours run / 300 houts idle.

I have always used PP or PUP 5w-20 with Fram XG10060 filter, changing by the OCI, with 15 ozs. of Lubegard Biotek on my last 2 oil changes.

I am debating about trying the Redline 5w-20 or 5w-30 on the next go-round, but am not feeling the love for paying the $80 to $100 for the oil.

Your recipe sounds like a quality one to me. PUP 5W-20 + Lubegard Biotech approximates the additization levels of RedLine, so you've got plenty of moly additive there. The only difference is the metal-wetting ability of RedLine base oil doesn't exist with PUP (or any other oil). Is it sufficient to make a huge difference in valve lifter longevity? Nobody knows without a controlled test experiment. That's the only reason I erred on the side of caution for a couple of bucks more per quart of oil.

Fram XG's are fine filters. Can't say how much contaminant holding capacity they have (i.e. - how many miles they're good for) prior to opening pressure relief bypass valve, again without a controlled test experiment. I would think most users would be safe with 5,000 mile OCI's - which I still recommend to keep the poor oil circulation system unplugged around the valve lifters. Again, to err on the safe side, I'm changing to a larger filter....Royal Purple 20-500. Fram Ultra XG10575 is also a bit bigger, but only app. 24%. The Royal Purple filter is 32% bigger.

Finally, you live in a hot climate. If you tow loads, I'd switch to 5W-30 to reduce engine wear.
 
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