Limited Slip Rear Diff

[Lee DeTro]

I recommend the Detroit TrueTrac posi Amazon has them but it's above your budget. I had one installed in my 2010 and very happy with the performance. Also had it in my 2002 Dakota replacing the worn out lsd clutches at 103,000 miles and was still working great at 252,500 miles when I wrecked it :-( If you plan on keeping your Ram I would suggest waiting and doing it right when you have the $$$$

 

[Graygoose]

Yea, don't do a mini spool, locks both axles together ALL the time. Fun for street rods, had one, but not a daily.

 

[Graygoose]

http://www.moes-performance.com/Mopar_Limited_Slip_Diff_2011_up_Ram_1500_9_25ZF_p/9.25zf-lsd.htm


hit up Matt, excellent guy!

 

[BWL]

Yukon, auburn and mopar all make ltd slips, but they are all going to be right on or just over budget in just the ltd slip unit. Seals, gaskets, fluid etc will put you over budget whichever you go with. I've seen some brands I'm not familiar that might allow you to be on budget if you only want parts and can do the labor.

 

[crash68]

Not quite sure how or if it interferes with the clutch-based LSD but I imagine it is preventing that from working at 100% as well.

With the Traction Control on and factory LSD will cause the back of my truck to "hop"(in 2WD) if I try to keep wheels spinning on snow/ice.

 

[16Ram4x4]

My 2016 CC 4x4 Express did not come with lsd. My two previous Dakotas had factory lsd and I was very disappointed when my new Ram came with an open diff.
A close buddy suggested a Shurtrax Lockrite as a cost effective and easy self install solution. It took a little over an hour to install and cost less than $500.00 including all fluids and supplies. It is a little different to drive a locking style diff but it's really not that bad.

 

[smithwessn]

Trac grabber or truck claws should get you out of that hole that your old truck would climb out of. Much easier than swapping out a diff. Well under your budget too!

 

[Dinky]

$460 plus tax.

Someone had to go there.

View attachment 157841

You want a 220 weld min lmao. 125 wont penetrate the gears

 

[TX_PW]

If I was in your situation I’d look at lunchbox lockers (powertrax, etc). Fairly cheap and easy to install.

 

[SRW]

yes, lunchbox locker is what I was thinking just couldn't come up with it in my mind. That would help my situation, could be done at home and wouldn't affect street driving too much.

Appreciate the help and ideas.

 

[ram1500rsm]

I wasn't aware of any option as far as traction aids in any other form than stock LSD or maybe Aurburn for the 4th gen RAM 1500? It seems nobody makes chit for this rear diff trucks?, let alone the damn front axel. I'd think the stock LSD is prob cheaper too.
I'll be running an Eaton locker if it was available for my diff but that doesn't seem the case, next will an Eaton Trutrac but i don't know we can run either option in the back. i know 5th gen can be had with a rear locker form the factory, but i'm not aware of anything for the 4th gen 1500 until now, unless something has changed ?

Also i see the poor TC switch always get blamed for everything. Just shut it off when in 4hi (4Lock if you have the 44-45 transfer case) pressing on the switch for about 10-15 sec until you see the TC off message, the TC should go off in 4lo. if you have the 4auto option nothing you do will fix the main problem and how that transfer case operates.
With the 44-45 , your RAM 1500 should be able to do this the whole day without LSD, just like the black Wrangler in this video, it's got a fully open diff but with BLD. We have the same system in the RAM's since the first 4th gen rolled out the factory ,


I had BLD in my Jeep with no lockers and it worked great, later i added a rear locker and front truetrac cause BLD has it's limitations on rocks, learn how to use your BLD, again this is assuming you have the 44-45 transfer case. For what've seen in videos you don't want that 44-44 if you're offorading in 3 wheels, deep mud/deep snow, sand etc.

i don't know if the BLD system has been revised throughout the years, it works good in my 14 RAM 1500 and i have a lot less flex than what my 13 JKU had, still will go 3 or even 2 wheels in a rut and continue to move forward, just feather the gas and keep it steady.. it's still about momentum just like an open diff but you don't have to be aggressive with the gas.

 

[CYSTemrebel]

My 2500 has LS and as soon as it is slurped, I will get a true posi locker for the rear.

 

[CYSTemrebel]

It came new on my truck not ordered so a 500 dollar deduction was agreed upon. I would not be without one knowing what I do now.

 

[calinb]

Did you turn off traction control? Man if I don't hit that button I swear I’ll get stuck just about every time. You did verify on your build sheet it don’t have “anti spin differential”? I’m not doubting ya. Just checking boxes haha

I concur about turning off traction control (especially when in 4WD). Everything seems to work better without tc involved.

+1 !!!

On my on my 2016 Cummins 2500 Bighorn, I find that traction control is only helpful (for control and safety) when driving on good road suface conditions, including plowed snow/ice covered roads. It becomes un-helpful and I turn it off when I'm steep hill climbing, trying not to get stuck, or trying to get un-stuck! Low Lock automatically turns it off, but I've not found Low Lock to be optimal in getting unstuck or climbing steep and very slippery roads.

As far as limited slip diffs go, I plow about 1/4 mi. of home driveway (somewhat steep) and parking areas with my 2004 2WD Ram 1500 (a V6 even). All four wheels are chained up-(helps with directional control and stopping) but I would not be able to do it if I had not installed a Yukon limited slip carrier when I overhauled the rear end about 3 years ago. Usually, I can even plow uphiill but sometimes I have to make my first pass down the drive. It's not an optimum plow rig, of course, but it works, if I'm careful to obey the first three rules of plowing:

1. DO NOT let snow accumulate.
2. DO NOT let snow accumulate.
3. DO NOT let snow accumulate.

I also carry 1100 lbs. of cinder blocks in the back of the bed!

 

[Wild one]

I wasn't aware of any option as far as traction aids in any other form than stock LSD or maybe Aurburn for the 4th gen RAM 1500? It seems nobody makes chit for this rear diff trucks?, let alone the damn front axel. I'd think the stock LSD is prob cheaper too.
I'll be running an Eaton locker if it was available for my diff but that doesn't seem the case, next will an Eaton Trutrac but i don't know we can run either option in the back. i know 5th gen can be had with a rear locker form the factory, but i'm not aware of anything for the 4th gen 1500 until now, unless something has changed ?

Also i see the poor TC switch always get blamed for everything. Just shut it off when in 4hi (4Lock if you have the 44-45 transfer case) pressing on the switch for about 10-15 sec until you see the TC off message, the TC should go off in 4lo. if you have the 4auto option nothing you do will fix the main problem and how that transfer case operates.
With the 44-45 , your RAM 1500 should be able to do this the whole day without LSD, just like the black Wrangler in this video, it's got a fully open diff but with BLD. We have the same system in the RAM's since the first 4th gen rolled out the factory ,


I had BLD in my Jeep with no lockers and it worked great, later i added a rear locker and front truetrac cause BLD has it's limitations on rocks, learn how to use your BLD, again this is assuming you have the 44-45 transfer case. For what've seen in videos you don't want that 44-44 if you're offorading in 3 wheels, deep mud/deep snow, sand etc.

i don't know if the BLD system has been revised throughout the years, it works good in my 14 RAM and i have a lot less flex than what my 13 JKU had, still will go 3 or even 2 wheels in a rut and continue to move forward, just feather the gas and keep it steady.. it's still about momentum just like an open diff but you don't have to be aggressive with the gas.

You can put a Tru Trac in a ZF diff,it's just not cheap.You need the older AAM 9.25 ring and pinion /one longer drivers side axle /master install kit and the Tru Trac unit itself.Matt at Moes can hook you up with everything you need for the swap.

 

[Retrube]

I've had good luck with the powertrax units. I put them in a 94 Ram, 95 Dakota and a 2000 Ford Econoline van used for flooring installations in the MI winters. They even make a LSD style now. The ones I used were the locker units. I can't have a one wheel peeler, it's a pet peeve and frustrating being stuck on a flat surface. Now I just buy trucks with LSD's or Lockers.

After the lockers I never got stuck and they were not hard to install. They do release and click a little around corners. I was pretty hard on them (took the Dakota to the drag strip many times) and they held up just fine. I would highly recommend them.

 

[Graygoose]

I had one Powertrax locker one time, didn't care for it. Under hard power accelerations it would come unlocked. Granted this was a 550hp C10 truck, not a modern Ram. But it was when they first came out, so hopefully any issues have been resolved.

 

[hodge-xj]

My 2016 CC 4x4 Express did not come with lsd. My two previous Dakotas had factory lsd and I was very disappointed when my new Ram came with an open diff.
A close buddy suggested a Shurtrax Lockrite as a cost effective and easy self install solution. It took a little over an hour to install and cost less than $500.00 including all fluids and supplies. It is a little different to drive a locking style diff but it's really not that bad.

Can you elaborate a bit more on how it drives. I was toying with doin one of these myself.

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[RLJ10X]

If you're like, and if you're like me, and always wondered what is the different about the ZF, Google: "9.25 ZF East Coast Gear Supply". You'll find a pretty good explanation.

If anybody has a pic of the welded part in the front dif of the '12s+, that causes everyone fits, I'd like to see that.

 

[hodge-xj]

If you're like, and if you're like me, and always wondered what is the different about the ZF, Google: "9.25 ZF East Coast Gear Supply". You'll find a pretty good explanation.

If anybody has a pic of the welded part in the front dif of the '12s+, that causes everyone fits, I'd like to see that.

Just read the article. Kinda bummed. Maybe I'll reach out and see if they've got anything in the works.

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