Locker issues, new to me 2018 PW

[Ryan Smith]

Bought a 2018 with 29k a couple months ago. Having what seems to be common troubles with the lockers. They rarely seem to actually lock up. Tried everything that seemed logical; S turns, forward and reverse, spinning the tires a little on dirt, etc.

I've been reading about servicing the front and rear diffs and cleaning the magnets. Can someone point me in the direction of some instructions on what this entails? I'm not familiar with how these lockers work.

Thanks

 

[SeppW]

Bought a 2018 with 29k a couple months ago. Having what seems to be common troubles with the lockers. They rarely seem to actually lock up. Tried everything that seemed logical; S turns, forward and reverse, spinning the tires a little on dirt, etc.

I've been reading about servicing the front and rear diffs and cleaning the magnets. Can someone point me in the direction of some instructions on what this entails? I'm not familiar with how these lockers work.

Thanks

Asking the obvious, but you are in 4Lo when attempting the lock the axle/s? The magnet, actually a electro-mechanical magnet-type switch, is left of the ring ring gear and just below the upper left carrier bolt and visible when the diff cover is removed. Any metal shards would be collected there and are visible as well. Use a rag to wipe off the shards, much like the magnet in an oil or trans pan. Replace cover and refill with specified gear oil.

Power Wagons are fitted with AAM TracRite lockers: TracRite EL in front and only locks the axle, TracRite GTL in rear that locks and acts like a LSD when unlocked. Finnicky lockers to get them locked, but should lock eventually. There is a locker by-pass kit available that will lock them instantly and lock them up regardless of TC gear range selected.

 

[ALRedneck]

Install the Abel locker bypass and you control when they lock. It’s been all over the map on reports on how dirty the magnet gets. I use my rear locker often(lock rear in 4H since Abel install)and didn’t change the rear diff until about 45,000 miles. My magnet was pretty clean.

 

[Ryan Smith]

Asking the obvious, but you are in 4Lo when attempting the lock the axle/s? The magnet, actually a electro-mechanical magnet-type switch, is left of the ring ring gear and just below the upper left carrier bolt and visible when the diff cover is removed. Any metal shards would be collected there and are visible as well. Use a rag to wipe off the shards, much like the magnet in an oil or trans pan. Replace cover and refill with specified gear oil.

Power Wagons are fitted with AAM TracRite lockers: TracRite EL in front and only locks the axle, TracRite GTL in rear that locks and acts like a LSD when unlocked. Finnicky lockers to get them locked, but should lock eventually. There is a locker by-pass kit available that will lock them instantly and lock them up regardless of TC gear range selected.

Yes, I was following the correct procedures. I have no idea how often the previous owner used them so I've been trying to "exercise" them fairly often. It has always been hit and miss. This was the first time I was really "wheeling" it and hoped they would work better. Rear eventually locked but never got the front this time. Didn't need them and got sick of trying.

As to the cleaning issue, it sounds like it is fairly obvious when you get the cover off what needs to be cleaned. Is that correct? No need to spray with brake cleaner or something, just wipe it off?

Thanks for the info. I'm sure a bypass kit is in the future. I have E lockers in the TJ and I love that it is on or off when I want and no computer trying to keep me safe from myself.

 

[Grand Mesa]

Yes, I was following the correct procedures. I have no idea how often the previous owner used them so I've been trying to "exercise" them fairly often. It has always been hit and miss. This was the first time I was really "wheeling" it and hoped they would work better. Rear eventually locked but never got the front this time. Didn't need them and got sick of trying.

As to the cleaning issue, it sounds like it is fairly obvious when you get the cover off what needs to be cleaned. Is that correct? No need to spray with brake cleaner or something, just wipe it off?

Thanks for the info. I'm sure a bypass kit is in the future. I have E lockers in the TJ and I love that it is on or off when I want and no computer trying to keep me safe from myself.

Same issues. On hard packed dirt with a 7,000 pound truck on 35's tires that really grip, it's more miss than hit. On ice mine engage immediately.

 

[Down2Ride]

On my 2021 the locker system is far from reliable. I just put 35’s on and have not been off road since the tire change. I don’t think it will make a difference in the way the system functions.

 

[SeppW]

As to the cleaning issue, it sounds like it is fairly obvious when you get the cover off what needs to be cleaned. Is that correct? No need to spray with brake cleaner or something, just wipe it off?

I wouldn't spray any chemical cleaners in the diff, unless doing a complete rebuild. If you didn't get all out it could contaminate the gear oil, but that's my thought on it. Just a rag and wipe off any metal stuck to magnate. Normal should be little to none. If there is glob of metal or chunks, then there is more going on with the locker that needs to be addressed or looked at more closely.

Mine are finnicky as well. I have found they will engage fairly consistently after shifting to 4Lo and switching the locker rotary dial to rear or front/rear, keep speed at 3 MPH or less and turn the wheel about a half a turn left and right while moving forward until the light stops blinking. They eventually lock in about 25 to 50m. I have a bypass kit, but have to get around to installing it.

 

[olyelr]

I believe one of the factory restraints (one of MANY) is the vehicle has to be at 3mph or under for them to engage.

People like to blame it on dirty magnets or gears are not aligned or truck weighs alot or there is too much grip in the tires or the wolves arnt howling at the moon etc., but the truth is if you install abel’s bypass setup and get rid of all the factory restraints, it locks up instantaneously. Regardless of the situation. So that tells me its just the factory restraints causing the issue.

 

[Ryan Smith]

I believe one of the factory restraints (one of MANY) is the vehicle has to be at 3mph or under for them to engage.

People like to blame it on dirty magnets or gears are not aligned or truck weighs alot or there is too much grip in the tires or the wolves arnt howling at the moon etc., but the truth is if you install abel’s bypass setup and get rid of all the factory restraints, it locks up instantaneously. Regardless of the situation. So that tells me its just the factory restraints causing the issue.

I wasn't aware of the 3 mph constraint. That is pretty much ridiculous and is likely most of the problem. I'm guessing I was going anywhere from almost stopped to 7 or 8 miles an hour while messing with it. I bet the rear locked in at one of the times I was below 3 and the front didn't because I was messing with the know.

If I could just figure it out with some consistency I could live with it but this never really knowing what is going on is driving me crazy. The Abel controller is going to have to be on the list but that is almost as irritating to have to spend money on aftermarket parts to make it work like it should all along.

 

[akguy09]

I thought the new 19+ trucks would look the rear in 2wd and 4H.

 

[ALRedneck]

I wasn't aware of the 3 mph constraint. That is pretty much ridiculous and is likely most of the problem. I'm guessing I was going anywhere from almost stopped to 7 or 8 miles an hour while messing with it. I bet the rear locked in at one of the times I was below 3 and the front didn't because I was messing with the know.

If I could just figure it out with some consistency I could live with it but this never really knowing what is going on is driving me crazy. The Abel controller is going to have to be on the list but that is almost as irritating to have to spend money on aftermarket parts to make it work like it should all along.

The Abel locker bypass still recommends you being below 3 mph to lock. Otherwise, you can damage your lockers if going faster and it is on you if that happens. That’s the reason I mounted the **** switch under the hood. So, I have to pop the hood to enable the lockers but I don’t trust myself.

 

[SeppW]

I wasn't aware of the 3 mph constraint. That is pretty much ridiculous and is likely most of the problem. I'm guessing I was going anywhere from almost stopped to 7 or 8 miles an hour while messing with it. I bet the rear locked in at one of the times I was below 3 and the front didn't because I was messing with the know.

If I could just figure it out with some consistency I could live with it but this never really knowing what is going on is driving me crazy. The Abel controller is going to have to be on the list but that is almost as irritating to have to spend money on aftermarket parts to make it work like it should all along.

I thnk it was out of necessity, because you don't won't to be locking diffs after getting mired down or going-no-where stuck and recovery is the only option.

 

[SeppW]

I thought the new 19+ trucks would look the rear in 2wd and 4H.

I have heard the same, but the MY19 OM, it is the same as earlier 4th GENs. The MY20 OM says the rear can be locked in 4Lo, 2Hi, and 4Hi. If front and rear are locked, then only in 4Lo. However, since I don't own these MYs, then those drivers would need to confirm functionality.

 

[Ryan Smith]

I decided to go mess around with it a little in front of the house. Nice flat road on a cul de sac. In low, the truck goes to 2 mph just taking your foot off the brake. Both lockers popped in and out no problem within 15 feet or so. Cycled them 4 times with no issue what so ever as long as I was moving. They still wouldn't lock in just sitting. This makes complete sense to me based on the info in this thread. Still frustrating that 3 mph seems to be the threshold but at least it seemed consistent.

 

[SeppW]

I decided to go mess around with it a little in front of the house. Nice flat road on a cul de sac. In low, the truck goes to 2 mph just taking your foot off the brake. Both lockers popped in and out no problem within 15 feet or so. Cycled them 4 times with no issue what so ever as long as I was moving. They still wouldn't lock in just sitting. This makes complete sense to me based on the info in this thread. Still frustrating that 3 mph seems to be the threshold but at least it seemed consistent.

You are GG then. They will not not lock while stationary.

 

[62Blazer]

I decided to go mess around with it a little in front of the house. Nice flat road on a cul de sac. In low, the truck goes to 2 mph just taking your foot off the brake. Both lockers popped in and out no problem within 15 feet or so. Cycled them 4 times with no issue what so ever as long as I was moving. They still wouldn't lock in just sitting. This makes complete sense to me based on the info in this thread. Still frustrating that 3 mph seems to be the threshold but at least it seemed consistent.

This is very typical for these types of devices and not unique to just the Power Wagon locking diffs. You have fine splines (gear teeth) with a tight tolerance that need to be perfectly aligned to engage, which typically requires everything to roll just slightly. There is nothing electronically saying they can't lock up while stationary, it's just very unlikely everything is already perfectly lined up when you stop.

For the top speed they will lock that probably is controlled electronically. You don't want one tire spinning a lot faster than the other when you try to lock it in because that puts a lot of stress on parts, and the same thing when simply driving faster....could also cause a sudden handling issue as the truck might lurch to one side or the other.

 

[SeppW]

This is very typical for these types of devices and not unique to just the Power Wagon locking diffs. You have fine splines (gear teeth) with a tight tolerance that need to be perfectly aligned to engage, which typically requires everything to roll just slightly. There is nothing electronically saying they can't lock up while stationary, it's just very unlikely everything is already perfectly lined up when you stop.

For the top speed they will lock that probably is controlled electronically. You don't want one tire spinning a lot faster than the other when you try to lock it in because that puts a lot of stress on parts, and the same thing when simply driving faster....could also cause a sudden handling issue as the truck might lurch to one side or the other.

Thus, lock before them getting into a jam.

 

[Anthony Bulger]

I recently added the rear axle with 3.92's off a rebel into my 2019 Laramie. I got a Wiring Pigtail from Mopar and the Dash transmission knob with the locker button on it. I went in with AlphaOBDII and activated the switch and I get the proper messages now when I use it.

I crawled under my buddies Rebel and identified the Color wires for the rear locker (yellow/white & Yellow/brown) and went back to mine and traced the matching wires to the Molex plug under the drivers footboard (under the body at the A pillar). When testing the wires I don't have any output (no Voltage). So I assume there is a relay or Fuse that needs to be added in the Box. Anybody have an idea where this is, or what it might be labelled as?

Or even another place I can tag the output voltage triggered from the Locker button, encase its not a missing fuse or relay. I did test just using 12Volts to activate the locker and that works fine, but I'd like to be able to use the switch on the dash since I went to all that trouble.

Any Ideas would be helpful.

Its a 2019 DT 1500

 

[62Blazer]

I recently added the rear axle with 3.92's off a rebel into my 2019 Laramie. I got a Wiring Pigtail from Mopar and the Dash transmission knob with the locker button on it. I went in with AlphaOBDII and activated the switch and I get the proper messages now when I use it.

I crawled under my buddies Rebel and identified the Color wires for the rear locker (yellow/white & Yellow/brown) and went back to mine and traced the matching wires to the Molex plug under the drivers footboard (under the body at the A pillar). When testing the wires I don't have any output (no Voltage). So I assume there is a relay or Fuse that needs to be added in the Box. Anybody have an idea where this is, or what it might be labelled as?

Or even another place I can tag the output voltage triggered from the Locker button, encase its not a missing fuse or relay. I did test just using 12Volts to activate the locker and that works fine, but I'd like to be able to use the switch on the dash since I went to all that trouble.

Any Ideas would be helpful.

Its a 2019 DT 1500

You will have better luck getting help if you make a new post in the Rebel section. Maybe somebody can provide the factory wiring diagram which would show the fuse locations. On these new vehicles sometimes checking for voltages can be a little tricky because of all of the parameters that need met before they activate.

 

[Anthony Bulger]

Thanks I'll try that.