Looking for a full audio upgrade writeup or thread. Radio, speakers, amp and sub.

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Wh0isthis

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Good morning brothers,


Just looking for a full audio write up or upgrade that someone has done.


I am planning on upgrading the radio, door speakers, dash speakers, rear doors, amp to power new door and front speakers. Also would like to do a separate amp for subs.


So would just like some input on people's setups.


I just get a little confused on selecting what I would want to do with the dash speakers. Do I stick with 2 way in the dash corners and center or replace them with just tweeters. I would like to go with components in the doors and stay away from coaxial or two way. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!!!!
 

guillory

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I just purchased my 1500 Classic Express Regular Cab. I ordered the Stinger HEIGH10 to replace the base head unit. I plan on purchasing an Alpine PWD-X5 to compliment the factory speakers. If the sound is still not good, I may replace the factory speakers, but I am thinking the upgraded head unit, 5-channel amp, and sub will do the trick.

I am not looking to turn heads, but just want a loud, quality sound.
 

TomT

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I've done multiple full systems in Rams and what I've found is that a 3 way component system up front with the midrange in the dash and tweeter in the sail panels will sound pretty awesome. It's best if you can run them active and use a DSP to fine tune each speaker.

A lot will depend on your budget, but the best thing to do is plan out the complete system and then you can do it in stages if you like.
 

RobertMcColl

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I have just completed mine.... I used OEM head unit. I then used a PAC APH4-CH41 to get some RCA outputs. From there under the passenger front seat I have a Audiocontrol DSP608 digital sound processor. Amps I have a a soundqubed Q1-2300 for the subs and a soundqubed Q4-150 for the door speakers. I did not go components. I went pro audio instead. Much happier. The thing absolutely screams and crystal clear at high volumes. I have soundqubed 6.5 inch 100 watt pro audio mids in the doors then in the dash I have some skar VX35 super tweeters. They were a bit tough to get in there but a 1/4 mdf cut at a funny shape did the job. I have a net audio ported box. Pricey but that thing is worth every cent. Solid box and sounds good. I have 2 x 10inch platform 1 PSI subs with HP voice coils so take 1000 rms each. I also put a 320 amp alt and a small XP750 battery in the back to help out. Voltage drops to 13.9 at lowest. The system absolutely slams and screams. It does give ear fatigue if listened to full tilt more then 5 minutes. So way more then you need. A friend of mine heard it yesterday and today is ordering a very similar set up. Guess he will expect me to build it. Me personally would take pro audio speakers over components.
 

Turbo831

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I have a full system in my 14 crew cab and have been through many speakers, amps and everything else involved in putting one in. Current system is 8,4 uconnect through the PAC APH4-CH41, optical toslink out to a Minidsp 8x12 with Dirac Live. Dsp feeds a 6 channel Zapco ST-6x SQ, Gladen 4 channel RC70c4 and 2 AB PH4000md sub amps. Speakers are Scanspeak D3004 tweeters in sail panels, Xcelsus XXM325 mids in dash corners, SS 7" 18w in doors, HAT Unity 2-way in rear doors and headliner for rear fill and 2 Stereo Integrity SQL-12's under the rear seats. One of the things I like the most is the only thing you can see is the tweeters in the sail panels and most people think they came stock as part of the alpine system, everything else is hidden. Really it's all about what kind of sound you want out of it and how much you are willing to spend to get it. DIYmobileaudio.com is also a great resource and has multiple Ram build log threads for ideas.
 

cam101

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I have a full system in my 14 crew cab and have been through many speakers, amps and everything else involved in putting one in. Current system is 8,4 uconnect through the PAC APH4-CH41, optical toslink out to a Minidsp 8x12 with Dirac Live. Dsp feeds a 6 channel Zapco ST-6x SQ, Gladen 4 channel RC70c4 and 2 AB PH4000md sub amps. Speakers are Scanspeak D3004 tweeters in sail panels, Xcelsus XXM325 mids in dash corners, SS 7" 18w in doors, HAT Unity 2-way in rear doors and headliner for rear fill and 2 Stereo Integrity SQL-12's under the rear seats. One of the things I like the most is the only thing you can see is the tweeters in the sail panels and most people think they came stock as part of the alpine system, everything else is hidden. Really it's all about what kind of sound you want out of it and how much you are willing to spend to get it. DIYmobileaudio.com is also a great resource and has multiple Ram build log threads for ideas.

That is a very nice set up you have. I definitely agree with DIYmobileaudio.com In my 2019 classic i have a Kenwood source, Audiocontrol DSP, 3 Arc Audio Amplifiers, Hertz tweeters, Hertz Mids, Hertz Midbass, Hertz Coaxials, JL Audio subs, SkyHigh Audio wiring.
 

ews25

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I've done multiple full systems in Rams and what I've found is that a 3 way component system up front with the midrange in the dash and tweeter in the sail panels will sound pretty awesome. It's best if you can run them active and use a DSP to fine tune each speaker.

A lot will depend on your budget, but the best thing to do is plan out the complete system and then you can do it in stages if you like.
I know this is an older thread, but I'm looking at upgrading the speakers in my '11 with the factory Alpine system and was thinking of doing 3-way components, either Infinity Kappas or JL Audio 2 series. Have any thoughts on that setup?
 

TomT

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Quick thoughts:

1. Use a PAC interface, do NOT try to sum the signals into a DSP.

2. Three way systems really work well. Simply drop the midranges into the dash positions for a stealth install. Unless you really want to do Pillars.

3. No experience with either of those speaker sets. I pieced mine together with some higher end components. I like Audio Development, Dynaudio, Sinfoni, and some Focal personally. However, everyone’s ears and budget are different.
 

ews25

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Quick thoughts:

1. Use a PAC interface, do NOT try to sum the signals into a DSP.

2. Three way systems really work well. Simply drop the midranges into the dash positions for a stealth install. Unless you really want to do Pillars.

3. No experience with either of those speaker sets. I pieced mine together with some higher end components. I like Audio Development, Dynaudio, Sinfoni, and some Focal personally. However, everyone’s ears and budget are different.
Thanks for the quick response. I'm already running a Pioneer head unit with the full Maestro setup. Does that change your advice regarding 1? Or is a PAC interface still necessary? On 2, my options in those 2 speaker brands are 6" or 6x9 midbass + tweeter component kits, then add 3.5" separates to dash and 2" separates to rear height. So that would mean placing the component tweeters somewhere - thoughts on that? I just spent 2 years worth of new truck payments dropping a 6.4 into the truck, so I'm afraid top end audio is not on the table. But the Kappas and JLs I'm looking at are probably comparable to some of the more affordable Focal speakers.
 

TomT

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Ok, that’s VERY different than the factory Alpine. I would get a DSP with enough channels to handle the final number of speakers you would ever have. I have a 12 channel Mosconi with a few empty channels.

6 front (three way)
2 rear doors but have room to go two way back there if I want.
1 for Sub

Each speaker has its own settings and amp channel driving it. That’s what Fully Active means. It also allows you to not buy speaker “sets” which will often include a passive crossover.

However, going this route can add cost since you’ll need more amp channels.

A good option is something like a JL VXi combo DSP and multi-channel amp. Helix also makes an excellent one.
 

ews25

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Do you have any experience with PAC AmpPRO AP4-CH21? That's what Crutchfield wants to sell me.
 

TomT

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I’m very confused about what you currently have in your truck and what your end goal is.
 

ews25

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I have a factory Alpine system. Uconnect has been replaced with a Pioneer AVH-251BT head unit, but Alpine amp and all speakers are original stock. Frankly, my goal is to get a little better sound so I don't feel embarrassed by my wife's new Subaru, which inexplicably has better, clearer, deeper sound than my truck.

I'm (quite obviously) not an audio technician, hence my consternation with the multitude of options and conflicting advice I'm seeing in various fora.
 
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TomT

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Are you feeding the Pioneer signal back into the Factory Alpine system or is it totally separate?

The PAC unit is so you can keep the factory UConnect system and pull signal from it to feed aftermarket DSPs, Amps, and Speakers. That‘s what I have running in my 2015.

Since you already changed the head unit to Pioneer, you should be able to feed amps (and whatever else) directly from that. At that point, it’s like any other aftermarket stereo.
 

ews25

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Honestly, I paid a shop to do it all. Or more to the point, I bought the parts and installation was "free". I don't know precisely how they wired it, but I do know that the speaker volume increased quite a bit with the Pioneer and I paid for I think 3 separate Maestro adaptors, so I'm assuming (again, not an audio guy) that the Alpine amp is still in series between the head and speakers.
 

TomT

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It’s gonna be tough to recommend anything specifically. Too many variables. If they are still using the factory amp (which is more than just an amp), then it has built in crossovers to feed the factory speakers.

You could bypass all of that and add an amp and your own speakers, but I can’t be sure what functions you might lose (seatbelt chime, speakerphone, etc). Sorry I can’t be of more help.
 

ews25

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So, ha ha, update. I ordered some reasonably priced 6x9s and dash/headliner drivers from CDT audio. The 6x9s have carbon fiber cones and a bit heavier than the stock Chrysler speakers were and I've installed them and they've improved the bottom end. Waiting on pigtails to do the mid-tweets. But here's the really "ha ha" part - I still didn't like the sound so I started exploring the Pioneer head unit's menu and realized I have a lot more control than I thought. After adjusting front/rear/sub bass crossovers and turning off the built in Hi and Lo pass filters, the sound is much better. Deeper, crisper bass, richer, more expansive highs, all that.
 

WadXpress

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Get rid of the dash speakers and find a good set of components.

I did a pioneer avic nex 8100 head unit
6.5” focal components in the front tweeters in the sails
6x9 kickers in the rear doors for fill
12” sundown sub in a fox box
Skar amps
Ran power to a distribution block behind the back seat to power the amps.
Idatalink maestro kit to retain factory function
 
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