Morimoto XB LED Headlights INSTALLED

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KWG88ss

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Anyone have pictures of how they ran the fuse tap? I modified my fuse cover but am not sure I like the way the way it seals.

Also curious.. I was thinking about like, dremeling out a small piece and getting some sort of insulation for HVAC/plumbing to plug the gap.
 
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Arth

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So here's how the operation of the turn signals and DRL can happen as I understand it.

Factory DRL. If you have it enabled correctly with Alfa or from the factory the DRL should drop out completely with the turn signal on. When the signal shuts off the top portion comes on at full brightness immediately and the bottom comes on at 50% then brightens to max after a few seconds.

Fuse Tap. The DRL does not turn off with the turn signal applied. The top DRL stays on full blast while the bottom dims. When the turn signal is turned off the bottom DRL will return too 100% after a few seconds. Now you can also get this if your DRL are set on but they don't drop out when the turn signal is applied.
 

mpress2570

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So here's how the operation of the turn signals and DRL can happen as I understand it.

Factory DRL. If you have it enabled correctly with Alfa or from the factory the DRL should drop out completely with the turn signal on. When the signal shuts off the top portion comes on at full brightness immediately and the bottom comes on at 50% then brightens to max after a few seconds.

Fuse Tap. The DRL does not turn off with the turn signal applied. The top DRL stays on full blast while the bottom dims. When the turn signal is turned off the bottom DRL will return too 100% after a few seconds. Now you can also get this if your DRL are set on but they don't drop out when the turn signal is applied.

Thank you for clearing that up


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mpress2570

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Also curious.. I was thinking about like, dremeling out a small piece and getting some sort of insulation for HVAC/plumbing to plug the gap.

I have a small hole at the very bottom of the box to my fuse bank that is not plugged. It’s from where I mounted the relays from my old HID kit. Never had a single issue with it. I don’t think a small hole down low will hurt you.


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predat-r

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How do yours respond? does the top DRL stay on with the turn signal?
I' will have to take a look, only have a view of them in park mode. Drl stays on.

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predat-r

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khalio

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Uh, this truck is complete AF. Great job.

Almost complete lol I just have to install the tow hooks and take my fender flares to get color matched, I've just been to lazy to paint my hooks red. But thank you!!
 

NightReaper

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So after having them since mid April, I have not been able to successfully aim them to an appropriate level. Has anyone experienced this issue? I've turned the adjusting as much as possible without compromising it, and my driver side is just aimed too low. My truck is leveled so even without, the aimed light would be useless for road use. I've messaged TRS to see what they have to say.
 

mpress2570

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So after having them since mid April, I have not been able to successfully aim them to an appropriate level. Has anyone experienced this issue? I've turned the adjusting as much as possible without compromising it, and my driver side is just aimed too low. My truck is leveled so even without, the aimed light would be useless for road use. I've messaged TRS to see what they have to say.

What is your definition of “as much as possible” walk us through how you adjusted them.


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NightReaper

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What is your definition of “as much as possible” walk us through how you adjusted them.


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I've adjusted them as much as they can be turned without stripping or completely breaking the teeth, and I've also insured they were lined up and bolted back in straight/correctly. Unless I am missing something...
 

mpress2570

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I've adjusted them as much as they can be turned without stripping or completely breaking the teeth, and I've also insured they were lined up and bolted back in straight/correctly. Unless I am missing something...

Did you turn the nut with a screw driver or with a wrench? And roughly how many turns did you do with the tool you used?


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NightReaper

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Used a fat Phillips head to grip the teeth, roughly for two whole revolutions of the wheel. Even with them removed in attempts to adjust, they don't seem to have much of an adjustment up/down.
 

mpress2570

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Used a fat Phillips head to grip the teeth, roughly for two whole revolutions of the wheel. Even with them removed in attempts to adjust, they don't seem to have much of an adjustment up/down.

The warning on the housings themselves say you can turn the nut on the back of the housing 3 times. Which is a lot of turns of a screw driver. Somewhere around 6-8 turns of the screw driver is one turn of the nut. Don’t remember the exact number. TRS told me themselves that the 3 turn warning can be exceeded if need be, and also advised me to just adjust them to where they NEED to be not to where it’s safe for the housing. If you break a projector lose trying to get them aimed properly then you have a defective housing and it needs replaced anyway.

To me it sounds like you still have plenty of room for adjustment. If it were me I would crank them no matter how many turns it took to get the proper aim. If they need replaced trying to get the appropriate aim then that’s on TRS

Here are perfectly aimed xb housings with standard road lines for a reference point. There’s about 5 lines illuminated by the low beams.
486cfd186fb4d72ad980addaebfef855.jpg


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NightReaper

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The warning on the housings themselves say you can turn the nut on the back of the housing 3 times. Which is a lot of turns of a screw driver. Somewhere around 6-8 turns of the screw driver is one turn of the nut. Don’t remember the exact number. TRS told me themselves that the 3 turn warning can be exceeded if need be, and also advised me to just adjust them to where they NEED to be not to where it’s safe for the housing. If you break a projector lose trying to get them aimed properly then you have a defective housing and it needs replaced anyway.

To me it sounds like you still have plenty of room for adjustment. If it were me I would crank them no matter how many turns it took to get the proper aim. If they need replaced trying to get the appropriate aim then that’s on TRS

Here are perfectly aimed xb housings with standard road lines for a reference point. There’s about 5 lines illuminated by the low beams.
486cfd186fb4d72ad980addaebfef855.jpg


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Thanks for the tips and the picture. My driver side output probably reaches the tip of the 2nd line at best, again with a LEVELED front end. I've been mindful about how many rotations to give it as it seem to have more resistance than it should. I don't want to break it and void any type of warranty situation I may end up in. I'm just surprised because it seems that mostly everyone had decent alignment out of the box with minor adjustments.
 

mpress2570

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Thanks for the tips and the picture. My driver side output probably reaches the tip of the 2nd line at best, again with a LEVELED front end. I've been mindful about how many rotations to give it as it seem to have more resistance than it should. I don't want to break it and void any type of warranty situation I may end up in. I'm just surprised because it seems that mostly everyone had decent alignment out of the box with minor adjustments.

Mine took about 1 and a half rotations of the nut on both sides to get them dead on. Bringing them passed the breaking point will not void the warranty. Take pictures and videos of you adjusting them and the output. If they are in fact that bad and they do break the projectors were not installed properly and it will be covered under their warranty. They’re very easy people to get along with.


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mpress2570

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8172c8e97fd29acdbcd96623543ca482.jpg

252c3e157e22368f086827be0b372b6e.jpg


Yikes. My drivers side is off...


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Yeah your drivers side looks out of wack. You probably need a warranty replacement


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Joemagnum

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If you think his is off look at mine 4ead8a38e795a5e360333f58a567e10c.jpg


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