My 04 1500 4.7 rebuild documentary with pics starts today !!

Ole Buck

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Did you line your clutch up ? Read your thread , thought may be why things didn’t go together .

Yes sir i used an alignment tool on the clutch and pressure plate when i fastened it to the flywheel. Once i set it back on the ground and tighten up the mounts everything should be ok. I did say should. I am doing this by myself so weight is a huge factor.
 

Ian_Olivas

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The auto and manual trans should have the same bolt pattern to the bell housing. They don't change. You would need the clutch dust cover from the manual to bolt up though, it's that small piece with 4 bolts that goes right behind the oil pan to the engine and trans. Should mount and fit right up. Some thing I recommend to do is replace the PCV system, it's the hose system that goes from the oil fill to the back of both heads and then to the back intake resonator box. All that crap does is feed oil vapors into the intake manifold and get everything all oiled up. Put 2 small filters on the back of the heads so it vents to atmosphere, clean up and replace when needed, and buy a plug kit to plug up the holes on the intake and the PCV valve at the oil fill. Another option is to ge a catch can but those are just too expensive.

The best way to get the engine in and out to line everything all up is using the two holes at the top of the block to bolt the chains to, it keeps it all leveled. Also make sure those valve covers and headers are on when remounting it just saves time and is so much easier than playing tetras once it's all seated. With those replaced ujoins make sure that's it all greased properly and that the caps are seated properly at well with no binding or you will get vibrations while driving and it will eat up that drive shaft. I made the mistake of saying ill do it later and it costed me a $700 driveshaft because I was just lazy to replace the u-joint I messed up on install. For the hose clamps that you are replacing, if they are screw band clamps make sure they are extremely tight or they will leak. Especially if you're replacing the ones to the heater core, it is honestly probably better to keep the original spring tension ones by the heater core or that shit will leak into the cab and it's a ***** and half to tighten when the engine is all set in stone again.

If there's anything else you need help with or a question on ask. I rebuilt my 4.7 back in 2019 and replaced everything like you did. All new seals, bearings, valves, springs, lifters, etc. I have a forum somewhere in here lost with pics and some light descriptions of what I did and had to do. You can find it on my profile I'm sure.
 

Ole Buck

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The auto and manual trans should have the same bolt pattern to the bell housing. They don't change. You would need the clutch dust cover from the manual to bolt up though, it's that small piece with 4 bolts that goes right behind the oil pan to the engine and trans. Should mount and fit right up. Some thing I recommend to do is replace the PCV system, it's the hose system that goes from the oil fill to the back of both heads and then to the back intake resonator box. All that crap does is feed oil vapors into the intake manifold and get everything all oiled up. Put 2 small filters on the back of the heads so it vents to atmosphere, clean up and replace when needed, and buy a plug kit to plug up the holes on the intake and the PCV valve at the oil fill. Another option is to ge a catch can but those are just too expensive.

The best way to get the engine in and out to line everything all up is using the two holes at the top of the block to bolt the chains to, it keeps it all leveled. Also make sure those valve covers and headers are on when remounting it just saves time and is so much easier than playing tetras once it's all seated. With those replaced ujoins make sure that's it all greased properly and that the caps are seated properly at well with no binding or you will get vibrations while driving and it will eat up that drive shaft. I made the mistake of saying ill do it later and it costed me a $700 driveshaft because I was just lazy to replace the u-joint I messed up on install. For the hose clamps that you are replacing, if they are screw band clamps make sure they are extremely tight or they will leak. Especially if you're replacing the ones to the heater core, it is honestly probably better to keep the original spring tension ones by the heater core or that shit will leak into the cab and it's a ***** and half to tighten when the engine is all set in stone again.

If there's anything else you need help with or a question on ask. I rebuilt my 4.7 back in 2019 and replaced everything like you did. All new seals, bearings, valves, springs, lifters, etc. I have a forum somewhere in here lost with pics and some light descriptions of what I did and had to do. You can find it on my profile I'm sure.

OMG thank you so much. This has been an adventure but so far its not been to bad. Fortunately I was blesses with patience and the fact that its not a daily driver. Again thank you for writing this
 

Ole Buck

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did some more wrenching last night. While lying under the truck staring at that ugly exhaust system that's going to bolt up to my new headers I got to thinking about all that white wet exhaust smoke from the antifreeze and oil that my blown head gasket pumped over around and through my cats and 4 02 sensors. So out came my brand new Ryobi Sawzall and to cutting I went. I took out everything from the headers back. That crap is a lot heavier and bulkier than I realized. So this morning at work in between calls I started searching for a new exhaust system and cats. I was thinking that you had to cut and piece and bend like old school but I was wrong. While searching I discovered that you could buy the entire drivers and passengers side cats included and bolt them up. Got a hell of a deal from magna flow for both sides but i am still going to dump them into a flowmaster super 44 ( mainly because i already bought it ). Anyway my tires and wheels arrived last week so I m still moving forward. Oh one question, any suggestion on the brands to use or stay away from on the 02 sensors? Looks like all four will work in the same manner either up or down stream left or right bank. If i am wrong correct me now please. Here's a couple more pictures. I'm hell on saw blades.

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I like the look of the headers and the new HO intake.

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Ole Buck

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Didnt snap any pics last night. Was kind of in limbo waiting on the new exhaust and ***** cylinder system to show up. Got to looking and around and thinking it sure would be silly to put all this back together and then undo everything again just to put my body lift on. So i grabbed the box and pulled the instructions out and began reading and said well dang I have all this stuff already unhooked !! It took about 45 minutes to do the front and man did it clear up some room. That new to me HO intake pulled away from the firewall and has around 3 inches to spare. No more binding, the harness is has plenty of slack. can get my hands on top of the tranny with no busted knuckles and most importantly I can see where everything is. Plus it looks good. I didnt realize just how far down over the frame that a 1500 sits. You can hardly see the bottom of the frame with the blocks installed. Anyway i will get back on it this weekend and will add some photos to go with it. Man that new magna-flow header back looks good!!! and the difference in weight between it and stock is unreal. Have a wonderful Thanksgiving people and ( if you believe ) pray for our country.
 

EdGs

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I've always been told to use OE on sensors and such. I'm on my 3rd aftermarket oil pressure switch on my '02, and going to go OE when I finally replace it again.

Your rebuild looks awesome so far!
 

panoz3

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Waterloo, IA
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Great thread, it's exciting to see your progress. I too have the Gibson GP316S headers on my 06 4.7 and really love them. In the basement I have Magnaflow catalytic converters waiting to be installed, I might find time in December to work on that project. Keep the updates coming!
 
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