My Hemi tick experience

[Hagar1]

You dont need a new engine when it starts to missfire swap the cam/lifters hell even do it earlier if it bothers you I had to swap mine at 170k on my 2011 and its still running out their somewhere had 230k when i sold it.

Cam, lifters AND oil pump

 

[Hagar1]

Ive done lots and lots of research on hemi tick and I believe like so many others that have tried it that a new HIGH VOLUME oil pump (not a high pressure pump) solves the issue. Its a relatively inexpensive thing to try vs replacing the engine. Be certain to purchase a high volume pump not a high pressure one

Did you use the Hellcat pump or something different?

 

[1500Vol]

Ive done lots and lots of research on hemi tick and I believe like so many others that have tried it that a new HIGH VOLUME oil pump (not a high pressure pump) solves the issue. It’s a relatively inexpensive thing to try vs replacing the engine. Be certain to purchase a high volume pump not a high pressure one

Yeah I’ve seen that as well. My truck made 38 psi at hot idle running 5w20 and now makes 48 with thick oil. 500 idle hours 4600 driving, i never let it sit running until i heard it start ticking. I leave it on all the time now lol.

With how much i drive it (3000 miles a month in town) it makes more sense to buy a $5400 crate engine with a 100k warranty rather than dump a bunch of money into a 170k mile engine that’s had a bunch of metal ran through it

 

[ramffml]

My 2013 1500 got 333k miles before I had to replace engine.
I think perhaps I was lucky, but one thing I did do that I know I shouldn't have is let thw truck idel way to long. I don't do that with new motor.
I was also thinking heavier oil, but not convinced yet. Motor sounds a little smoother and quiter on 5x30, but my gut tells me 5x20 is healthier for motor.
Two things I think I'd like to do.
1. Pull oil pan and replace oil pump with higher volume pump and maybe a higher capacity pan.
2. Use alfaobd to increase idle rpm to something a little higher. I am still going to limit idling.

3. I am thinking some of the engine noise i have heard might be accessories like alternator compressor and water pump. I would like to find out how effiecoent and smooth this accesories run.

4. Unrelated to.oil or noise, but I seriously want to do big three wiring upgrade and replace ground straps on trick. Motor might be new but wiring still has 11years and 338k miles on them

333k is a really great run!

You got 333k miles out of your v8, if anything that is more proof that there is no flaw in the design. The only thing I'd do in your list there is 5w-30. 5w-20 is not healthier, not sure what you're basing that on, 5w-30 offers more protection than 5w-20 at every temperature. Only place you need to wonder if you should switch there is in very cold winters, but even then that's what the "5" is for, in theory they should give you the same performance in deep freezing weather.

 

[2013ramboy]

Yes I was loving my truck qirh new motor. Then yesterday I changed 3rd brake light bulbs to.led and all hell broke loose. It's got to be a coincidence, but now my passenger rear door shows open all the time. I also got error codes galore. Service fwd system, low brake fluid. Right turn signal out.
Truck ran fine, but annoying brake light and constant dinging with service fwd system, and right front tun light out. Although turn signal works perfectly

I even were placed their brake light with regular bulbs and still no joy.
I disconnected battery and cleaned out connector under oil filter in what looks like a transfer case.
It was covered in oil.
Cleaned it out qith acetone sprat and still no joy.
Looks like a trip to my mechanic but I am so ******* annoyed. Was planning to take truck on road trip this weekend.

 

[Burla]

CAN bus compatible led you use?

 

[jws123]

Yes I was loving my truck qirh new motor. Then yesterday I changed 3rd brake light bulbs to.led and all hell broke loose. It's got to be a coincidence, but now my passenger rear door shows open all the time. I also got error codes galore. Service fwd system, low brake fluid. Right turn signal out.
Truck ran fine, but annoying brake light and constant dinging with service fwd system, and right front tun light out. Although turn signal works perfectly

I even were placed their brake light with regular bulbs and still no joy.
I disconnected battery and cleaned out connector under oil filter in what looks like a transfer case.
It was covered in oil.
Cleaned it out qith acetone sprat and still no joy.
Looks like a trip to my mechanic but I am so ******* annoyed. Was planning to take truck on road trip this weekend

put it in and out of 4wd few times un hook battey a while usually got the service 4wd to go away for a while on my old 2011 no one ever came up with a 100% fix I could go one year with no issue then it would just pop up one day lmfaoo.

 

[Dusty]

333k is a really great run!

You got 333k miles out of your v8, if anything that is more proof that there is no flaw in the design. The only thing I'd do in your list there is 5w-30. 5w-20 is not healthier, not sure what you're basing that on, 5w-30 offers more protection than 5w-20 at every temperature. Only place you need to wonder if you should switch there is in very cold winters, but even then that's what the "5" is for, in theory they should give you the same performance in deep freezing weather.

If he went 333K miles using 5W-20 it doesn't sound like a bad oil strategy, either. I know of four 5.7s at or near the 200K mark using 5W-20 with no issues to date. Where 5W-30 becomes more viable is on engines that have a lot of miles with more bearing wear and commensurate loss of oil pressure.

Regards,
Dusty
2019 Ram 1500 Billet Silver Laramie Quad Cab 2WD, 5.7 Hemi, 8HP75, 3.21 axle, 33-gallon fuel tank, 18” wheels. Build Date: 3 June 2018. Now at 117395 miles.

 

[ramffml]

If he went 333K miles using 5W-20 it doesn't sound like a bad oil strategy, either. I know of four 5.7s at or near the 200K mark using 5W-20 with no issues to date. Where 5W-30 becomes more viable is on engines that have a lot of miles with more bearing wear and commensurate loss of oil pressure.

Regards,
Dusty
2019 Ram 1500 Billet Silver Laramie Quad Cab 2WD, 5.7 Hemi, 8HP75, 3.21 axle, 33-gallon fuel tank, 18” wheels. Build Date: 3 June 2018. Now at 117395 miles.

I understand your logic (5w-20 got him to 333k without issues so is it really the wrong choice?); but for me it's different, it doesn't cost any extra to purchase 5w-30 instead of 5w-20, it doesn't take any longer to change it, you don't need to change it any earlier etc; there is no downside whatsoever, and we know the science of motor oil says 5w-30 offers more protection.

So it's a no brainer decision for me to run 5w-30, who knows, he may have squeaked out even more mileage out of it using better and thicker oil! It certainly wouldn't have harmed his engine, so the only question is how much longer (if any) it would have prolonged the life of his engine.

 

[1500Vol]

333k is a really great run!

You got 333k miles out of your v8, if anything that is more proof that there is no flaw in the design. The only thing I'd do in your list there is 5w-30. 5w-20 is not healthier, not sure what you're basing that on, 5w-30 offers more protection than 5w-20 at every temperature. Only place you need to wonder if you should switch there is in very cold winters, but even then that's what the "5" is for, in theory they should give you the same performance in deep freezing weather.

No flaw in the design but definitely a flaw in materials quality. Some of the 5.7s (mine) have play dough cam and lifters

 

[Dusty]

I understand your logic (5w-20 got him to 333k without issues so is it really the wrong choice?); but for me it's different, it doesn't cost any extra to purchase 5w-30 instead of 5w-20, it doesn't take any longer to change it, you don't need to change it any earlier etc; there is no downside whatsoever, and we know the science of motor oil says 5w-30 offers more protection.

So it's a no brainer decision for me to run 5w-30, who knows, he may have squeaked out even more mileage out of it using better and thicker oil! It certainly wouldn't have harmed his engine, so the only question is how much longer (if any) it would have prolonged the life of his engine.

I assume your oil strategy is working for you and that's good. As to whether or not the original OPs engine could've benefited more from another strategy is an assumption.

For me I do not start with the thought that engine designers are inept or fail to understand the complete parameters of their design, or have not considered their lubrication strategy without giving serious thought. There are often compromises is automotive engine designs, but without the knowledge of the results of their testing I'm going to accept their recommendations. Some may think this is naive, but at the same time I'm also aware of the human tendency to overreact and/or try to out guess things.

My strategy has varied somewhat except for viscosity selection. We don't know what the flow velocities are throughout the Hemi engine. There's a YouTuber that is a certified lubrication engineer who has a simple rule for engine lubrication: the right oil, at the right quantity, at the right time. When engines are developed various parts of the engine are measured for oil flow. Changing oil viscosity could affect the flow velocity balance.

By the time 5W-20 and 5W-30 get to a temperature of 300F the viscosities are likely within 1 centistokes of each other. But at 100F they are about 30+ centistokes apart (this is dependent on any individual oil blend). This effect is visible with the Cold Cranking Simulator Tests. Since viscosity impacts oil flow rate, those of us in parts of the country where temperatures have wide swings are more concerned about adequate flow.

Regards,
Dusty
2019 Ram 1500 Billet Silver Laramie Quad Cab 2WD, 5.7 Hemi, 8HP75, 3.21 axle, 33-gallon fuel tank, 18” wheels. Build Date: 3 June 2018. Now at 117421 miles.

 

[ramffml]

I assume your oil strategy is working for you and that's good. As to whether or not the original OPs engine could've benefited more from another strategy is an assumption.

For me I do not start with the thought that engine designers are inept or fail to understand the complete parameters of their design, or have not considered their lubrication strategy without giving serious thought. There are often compromises is automotive engine designs, but without the knowledge of the results of their testing I'm going to accept their recommendations. Some may think this is naive, but at the same time I'm also aware of the human tendency to overreact and/or try to out guess things.

My strategy has varied somewhat except for viscosity selection. We don't know what the flow velocities are throughout the Hemi engine. There's a YouTuber that is a certified lubrication engineer who has a simple rule for engine lubrication: the right oil, at the right quantity, at the right time. When engines are developed various parts of the engine are measured for oil flow. Changing oil viscosity could affect the flow velocity balance.

By the time 5W-20 and 5W-30 get to a temperature of 300F the viscosities are likely within 1 centistokes of each other. But at 100F they are about 30+ centistokes apart (this is dependent on any individual oil blend). This effect is visible with the Cold Cranking Simulator Tests. Since viscosity impacts oil flow rate, those of us in parts of the country where temperatures have wide swings are more concerned about adequate flow.

Regards,
Dusty
2019 Ram 1500 Billet Silver Laramie Quad Cab 2WD, 5.7 Hemi, 8HP75, 3.21 axle, 33-gallon fuel tank, 18” wheels. Build Date: 3 June 2018. Now at 117421 miles.

Couple points you may want to consider: it's not about the engineers not knowing better, they have to listen to corporate demands and fuel efficiency is a big one. Fuel efficiency has been driving thinner oils, that's it. Ask any tribologist and they'll say the same thing.

And secondly, the 6.4 hemi recommends 0w-40 (and other examples can be found, engines sold in different countries). They have thicker oil recommendations for a reason. Some manuals even say, if you track your car or tow heavy, run the thicker oil. It's not too hard to figure out why they do this.

The hemi doesn't have a problem with flow. There is no evidence to suggest this. And if there is a problem with flow running 5w-30 at 200F, there is definitely going to be a catastrophic problem running 5w-20 at 50F.

Finally: the manuals used to recommend running 5w-30 in the 5.7 2500's. Right there in black and white. You will absolutely not harm your engine doing this, many of us have even run 0w-40 and for me the one time I did it was one of my best UOA reports.

 

[2013ramboy]

I will chime in here again.
So I have run 5w30 for a couple weeks now. I think i feel like the motor runs better with 5w30. But a couple things to consider.
1. Engine runs about 5deg hotter on 30w, not an issue i think hemis want to run hotter.
2. I also use seafoam in crankcase 4 times a year to help clean things up. I did this for 8 years and 245k miles while running 5w20 and putting a full can of seafoam in crank a couple days before oil change.
So for me, I think for me, 5w30 and seafoam 4 times a year is my plan. I do think 5x20 would be fine and provide better gas mileage. But for me thw thicker slightly thicker oil make engine just feel better.

Assumptions.
5w20 runs cooler then 5w30.
Engine is quieter with 5w30

 

[Dusty]

Couple points you may want to consider: it's not about the engineers not knowing better, they have to listen to corporate demands and fuel efficiency is a big one. Fuel efficiency has been driving thinner oils, that's it. Ask any tribologist and they'll say the same thing.

And secondly, the 6.4 hemi recommends 0w-40 (and other examples can be found, engines sold in different countries). They have thicker oil recommendations for a reason. Some manuals even say, if you track your car or tow heavy, run the thicker oil. It's not too hard to figure out why they do this.

The hemi doesn't have a problem with flow. There is no evidence to suggest this. And if there is a problem with flow running 5w-30 at 200F, there is definitely going to be a catastrophic problem running 5w-20 at 50F.

Finally: the manuals used to recommend running 5w-30 in the 5.7 2500's. Right there in black and white. You will absolutely not harm your engine doing this, many of us have even run 0w-40 and for me the one time I did it was one of my best UOA reports.

Yes, everyone knows, including myself, that a lower viscosity oil was selected to reduce internal friction.

Comparing what is used in the 6.4 may also be assuming things. Are all the bearing clearances the same between the current 5.7 and the 6.4?

I think there are some in this forum that do believe the Hemi has a flow problem, but regardless, I never stated that the 5.7 has an elementary issue with internal oil flow, only that we don't know what the impacts are to flow with a change in viscosity by using a higher viscosity oil.

Without having the benefit of the exact language in front of me, I believe it was intended to permit use of 5W-30 under temporary conditions, such as the unavailability of the recommended viscosity. They seem to have removed that in more recent manuals (my 2019 manual does not include that). What was the reason?

In reality the difference between the the two viscosity grades being discussed is roughly 2.5 to 3.0 centistokes difference at 200F. That probably is not an issue since that's a normal operating temperature for these engines. However, at zero degrees its a much different story.

Regards,
Dusty
2019 Ram 1500 Billet Silver Laramie Quad Cab 2WD, 5.7 Hemi, 8HP75, 3.21 axle, 33-gallon fuel tank, 18” wheels. Build Date: 3 June 2018. Now at 117448 miles.

 

[ramffml]

Yes, everyone knows, including myself, that a lower viscosity oil was selected to reduce internal friction.

Comparing what is used in the 6.4 may also be assuming things. Are all the bearing clearances the same between the current 5.7 and the 6.4?

I think there are some in this forum that do believe the Hemi has a flow problem, but regardless, I never stated that the 5.7 has an elementary issue with internal oil flow, only that we don't know what the impacts are to flow with a change in viscosity by using a higher viscosity oil.

Without having the benefit of the exact language in front of me, I believe it was intended to permit use of 5W-30 under temporary conditions, such as the unavailability of the recommended viscosity. They seem to have removed that in more recent manuals (my 2019 manual does not include that). What was the reason?

In reality the difference between the the two viscosity grades being discussed is roughly 2.5 to 3.0 centistokes difference at 200F. That probably is not an issue since that's a normal operating temperature for these engines. However, at zero degrees its a much different story.

Regards,
Dusty
2019 Ram 1500 Billet Silver Laramie Quad Cab 2WD, 5.7 Hemi, 8HP75, 3.21 axle, 33-gallon fuel tank, 18” wheels. Build Date: 3 June 2018. Now at 117448 miles.

There is a big difference there in 5w-20 vs 5w-30, many don't want to run an HT/HS < 2.8 or even 3. The second the film fails to separate the physical bits you're relying on anti-wear ingredients instead. At zero degrees (cold temps) the winter rating of "5w" defines how thick it is, both 5w-20 and 5w-30 should provide the same result.

The 2500 manual doesn't recommend 5w-30 due to temporary unavailability, but due to heat and workload. If you're working your truck hard then they tell you to run the thicker oil.

 

[Wild one]

Comparing what is used in the 6.4 may also be assuming things. Are all the bearing clearances the same between the current 5.7 and the 6.4?

5.7's and 6.4's are the same

file:///C:/Users/Personal%20Computer/Downloads/2011_392_hemi_specs.pdf

Ram Eagle Engine Specs from Chrysler Tech Manual​

SPECIFICATIONS
Eagle Engine - 90° V-8 OHV
Metric / Standard
Displacement 5.7 Liters / 348 CID
Bore 99.5 mm / 3.92 in.
Stroke 90.9 mm / 3.58 in.
Compression Ratio 10.5:1
Max. Variation Between Cylinders 25%
Firing Order 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2
Lubrication Pressure Feed - Full Flow Filtration
Cooling System Liquid Cooled
Cylinder Block Cast Iron
Cylinder Head Aluminum
Crankshaft Nodular Iron
Camshaft Cast Iron
Pistons Aluminum Alloy
Connecting Rods Powdered Metal

CYLINDER BLOCK
Metric / Standard
Cylinder Bore Diameter 99.50 mm / 3.92 in.
Out of Round (MAX) 0.0076 mm / 0.0003 in.
Taper (MAX) 0.0127 mm / 0.0005 in.
Lifter Bore Diameter 21.45 - 21.425 mm / 0.8444 - 0.8435 in.

PISTONS
Metric / Standard
Clearance
Measured at 38.0 mm / 1.5 in. Below Deck 0.031 - 0.058 mm / 0.012 - 0.023 in.
Ring Groove Diameter
Top Groove 90.4 - 90.6 mm / 3.56 - 3.57 in.
Second Groove 88.4 - 88.7 mm / 3.48 - 3.49 in.
Weight 413 grams 14.56 oz
Piston Length 53.3 mm / 2.10 in.
Ring Groove Width
No. 1 1.23 - 1.26 mm / 0.048 - 0.0496 in
No. 2 1.23 - 1.25 mm / 0.048 - 0.0492 in.
No. 3 2.03 - 2.05 mm / 0.079 - 0.080 in.

PISTON PINS
Metric / Standard
Clearance In Piston 0.005 - 0.014 mm / 0.0001 - 0.0005 in.
Diameter 24.004 - 24.007 mm / 0.945 - 0.9451 in.
Length 62.99 - 63.21 mm / 2.47 - 2.48 in.

PISTON RINGS
Metric / Standard
Ring Gap
Top Compression Ring 0.40 - 0.55 mm / 0.015 - 0.021 in.
Second Compression Ring 0.24 - 0.51 mm / 0.009 - 0.020 in.
Oil Control Rails 0.15 - 0.66 mm / 0.0059 - 0.0259 in.
Side Clearance
Top Compression Ring 0.04 - 0.09 mm / 0.001 - 0.0035 in.
Second Compression Ring 0.04 - .08 mm / 0.001 - 0.0031 in.
Oil Control Rails 0.06 - 0.21 mm / 0.002 - 0.008 in.
Ring Width
Top Compression Ring 1.17 - 1.19 mm / 0.0460 - 0.0468 in.
Second Compression Ring 1.17 - 1.19 mm / 0.0460 - 0.0468 in.
Oil Control Rails 0.387 - 0.413 mm / 0.015 - 0.016 in.

CONNECTING RODS
Metric / Standard
Piston Pin Bore Diameter 24.014 - 24.024 mm / 0.9454 - 0.9458 in.
Side Clearance 0.10 - 0.35 mm / 0.003 - 0.0137 in.

CRANKSHAFT
Metric / Standard
Main Bearing Journal Diameter 64.988 - 65.012 mm / 2.5585 - 2.5595 in.
Bearing Clearance 0.023 - 0.051 mm / 0.0009 - 0.002 in.
Out of Round (MAX) 0.005 mm / 0.0002 in.
Taper (MAX) 0.003 mm / 0.0001 in.
End Play 0.052 - 0.282 mm / 0.002 - 0.011 in.
End Play (MAX) 0.282 mm / 0.011 in.
Connecting Rod Journal Diameter 53.992 - 54.008 mm / 2.126 in.
Bearing Clearance 0.020 - 0.060 mm / 0.0007 - 0.0023 in.
Out of Round (MAX) 0.005 mm / 0.0002 in.
Taper (MAX) 0.003 mm / 0.0001 in.

CAMSHAFT
Metric / Standard
Bearing Journal Diameter
No. 1 58.2 mm / 2.29 in.
No. 2 57.8 mm / 2.28 in.
No. 3 57.4 mm / 2.26 in.
No. 4 57.0 mm / 2.24 in.
No. 5 43.633 mm / 1.72 in.
Bearing To Journal Clearance Standard
No. 1 0.040 - 0.080 mm / .0015 - .003 in.
No. 2 0.050 -0.090 mm / 0.0019 - .0035 in.
No. 3 0.040 - 0.080 mm / .0015 - .003 in.
No. 4 0.050 - 0.090 mm / 0.0019 - .0035 in.
No. 5 0.040 - 0.080 mm / .0015 - .003 in.
Camshaft End Play .080 - 0.290mm / 0.0031 - 0.0114 in.

VALVE TIMING

Intake
Opens (BTDC) 28.2°
Closes (ATDC) 239.8°
Duration 268°
Exhaust
Opens (BTDC) 274.2°
Closes (ATDC) 15.8°
Duration 290°
Valve Overlap 44°

CYLINDER HEAD
Metric / Standard
Valve Seat Angle 44.5° - 45.0°
Valve Seat Runout (MAX) 0.05 mm / 0.0019 in.
Valve Seat Width (finish)
Intake 1.18 - 1.62 mm / .0638 in.
Exhaust 1.48 - 1.92 mm / 0.0583 - 0.0756 in.
Guide Bore Diameter (Std.) 7.975 - 8.00 mm / 0.3134 - 0.315 in.

HYDRAULIC TAPPETS
Metric / Standard
Body Diameter 21.387 - 21.405 mm / 0.8420 - 0.8427 in.
Clearance (to bore) 0.020 - 0.063 mm / 0.0008 - 0.0025 in.
Dry Lash 3.0 mm (at the valve) / 0.1181 in. (at the valve)

VALVES
Metric / Standard
Face Angle 45.0° - 45.5°
Head Diameter
Intake 50.67 - 50.93 mm / 1.99 - 2.01 in.
Exhaust 39.27 - 39.53 mm / 1.55 - 1.56 in.
Length (overall)
Intake 123.38 - 123.76 mm / 4.857 - 4.872 in.
Exhaust 120.475 - 120.855 mm / 4.743 - 4.758 in.
Stem Diameter
Intake 7.935 - 7.953 mm / 0.312 - 0.313 in.
Exhaust 7.932 - 7.950 mm / 0.312 - 0.313 in.
Stem - to - Guide Clearance
Intake 0.022 - 0.065 mm / 0.0008 - 0.0025 in.
Exhaust 0.025 - 0.065 mm / 0.0009 - 0.0025 in.
Valve Lift ( @ zero lash)
Intake 12.0 mm / 0.472 in.
Exhaust 11.70 mm / 0.460 in.

VALVE SPRING
Metric / Standard
Spring Force (valve closed) 435.0 N +/- 22.0 N @ 45 mm / 97.8 lbs +/- 5.0 lbs. @ 1.771 in.
Spring Force (valve open) 1077.0 N +/- 48.0 N @ 32.6 mm./ 242.0 lbs. +/- 11 lbs. @ 1.283 in.
Free Length (approx). 55.6 mm / 2.189 in.
Number of Coils 7.95
Wire Diameter 4.95 × 4.1 mm / 0.194 - 0.161 in.
Installed Height (spring seat to bottom of retainer) 46.0 mm / 1.81 in.

OIL PUMP
Metric / Standard
Clearance Over Rotors (MAX) 0.095 mm / 0.0038 in.
Outer Rotor to Pump Body Clearance (MAX) .235 mm / 0.009 in.
Tip Clearance Between Rotors (MAX) 0.150 mm / 0.006 in.

OIL PRESSURE
Metric / Standard
At Curb Idle Speed (MIN)* 25 kPa / 4 psi
@ 3000 rpm 170 - 758 kPa / 25 - 110 psi
* CAUTION: If pressure is zero at curb idle, DO NOT run engine.

Without having the benefit of the exact language in front of me, I believe it was intended to permit use of 5W-30 under temporary conditions, such as the unavailability of the recommended viscosity. They seem to have removed that in more recent manuals (my 2019 manual does not include that). What was the reason?

Supposedly the trucks wouldn't meet their milege estimates with 5W-30

Regards,
Dusty
2019 Ram 1500 Billet Silver Laramie Quad Cab 2WD, 5.7 Hemi, 8HP75, 3.21 axle, 33-gallon fuel tank, 18” wheels. Build Date: 3 June 2018. Now at 117448 miles.

 

[Burla]

At zero degrees (cold temps) the winter rating of "5w" defines how thick it is, both 5w-20 and 5w-30 should provide the same result.

Not exactly, winter rating means the best possible flow for that weight and still maintain lubricty, not same flow across weights. If so 0w20 would flow as good as 0w40 in the cold, nowhere near the case. Graph 0w30 and 5w20 and see the results, sometimes guys seam to forget about 0w30.

 

[Burla]

Put in the values 40c and 100c and recalculate. Best to check visible box off and just do the oils you are trying to compare. When I put redline's values in 0w30 is close to 5w20, when you put value in for 5w30 there is a very visible viscosity change. Never mind the label, these are the values 5w30 versus 5w20, you see the cold flow. Bottom photo 0w30 versus 5w20.

So to sum it up, the pink line is 5w20 redline values in both graphs cold flow, the top graph is 5w30 green line, and the green line in bottom pic is 0w30 all in redline viscosity values, you can put any oil values in calculator.

In conclusion, if you want the performance of 5w20 in the cold and the operating viscosity of 5w30 in the warm, then use 0w30?

 

[Dusty]

Put in the values 40c and 100c and recalculate. Best to check visible box off and just do the oils you are trying to compare. When I put redline's values in 0w30 is close to 5w20, when you put value in for 5w30 there is a very visible viscosity change. Never mind the label, these are the values 5w30 versus 5w20, you see the cold flow. Bottom photo 0w30 versus 5w20.

So to sum it up, the pink line is 5w20 redline values in both graphs cold flow, the top graph is 5w30 green line, and the green line in bottom pic is 0w30 all in redline viscosity values, you can put any oil values in calculator.

In conclusion, if you want the performance of 5w20 in the cold and the operating viscosity of 5w30 in the warm, then use 0w30?


View attachment 549033

View attachment 549034

Thank you for explaining what the winter rating means for each grade.

Appreciate you including the graphs. I assume the the horizontal line is temperature in C. What is the vertical line representation?

I have this chart which I was thinking you sent out a long time ago, or maybe I got this from another source. Unfortunately it does not extend to 0.0 F or 32F. Does this chart look familiar to you?

Regards,
Dusty
2019 Ram 1500 Billet Silver Laramie Quad Cab 2WD, 5.7 Hemi, 8HP75, 3.21 axle, 33-gallon fuel tank, 18” wheels. Build Date: 3 June 2018. Now at 117448 miles.

 

[Dusty]

There is a big difference there in 5w-20 vs 5w-30, many don't want to run an HT/HS < 2.8 or even 3. The second the film fails to separate the physical bits you're relying on anti-wear ingredients instead. At zero degrees (cold temps) the winter rating of "5w" defines how thick it is, both 5w-20 and 5w-30 should provide the same result.

The 2500 manual doesn't recommend 5w-30 due to temporary unavailability, but due to heat and workload. If you're working your truck hard then they tell you to run the thicker oil.


View attachment 549030

Okay. I thought we were addressing 1500s only. I was thinking the 5W-30 usage in 1500s was worded differently. In the case of a 2500-3500, I agree this probably makes sense.

Regards,
Dusty
2019 Ram 1500 Billet Silver Laramie Quad Cab 2WD, 5.7 Hemi, 8HP75, 3.21 axle, 33-gallon fuel tank, 18” wheels. Build Date: 3 June 2018. Now at 117448 miles.