My Mechanic Could Have Killed Me

[MarshRam]

10/29/19 UPDATE: I got a refund. Thanks everyone!


So, apparently a very common issue with Mopar Calipers iszzzzz.. When you put new brakes and/or rotors on, the seals in the calipers are prone to blow. What this equates to is, you do the said replacement and you might find yourself driving down the road and your brakes don't work shortly after install. This is what I was told by a mechanic and is what happened to me. Luckily I was in my driveway when it went out (rear driver side).

I am reaching out to the community to determine if this is true or not.

I paid a shop to install some new brakes and rotors. After install, I drove home and had it parked for a couple days. Went to drive it again and when I disengaged my e-brake, the e-brake light was still on. It was fully disengaged, so I figured it was merely an adjustment that was needed. Drove about 250 miles over the weekend and parked it for a couple days Next startup and pedal hit the floor, no brakes.

Upon eyeball inspection, I could see my inner guide pin boot was dislodged and mangled in the caliper. But that is a dust boot, so was not causing the leak. There was obviously brake fluid all over the place.

Mechanic shop claims no error in compressing the calipers. Said and I quote, "this is a common issue with brake replacements, especially with Mopars, the seals blow."

There is way more sauce to this story that I may share as needed. But, I need some experienced input (personal experience or from a certified mechanic) that this is in fact true before I waste my time with the whole story.

I paid $55 to keep my core for inspection should I need to proceed to taking this to the next level. So, I really need some intelligent input on this matter as a starting point.

I'll edit the OP with more details, depending on what gives here.

Thanks

 

[AFMoulton]

********, I’ve changed a lot of brakes on Mopar sand never had that issue. Only time I’ve ever seen that is when someone ****** up installing or removing it.


2018 2500 6.4 4x4 4.10 Amsoil SS 0w-40, Softopper
Black Rhino Arsenal 18x9 +12mm
Cooper St MAXX LT295/70R18

66RFE/68RFE Thermo Bypass Valve Install


2016 Durango 5.7 AWD 3.07 Redline 5W-30 RP 10-48
1996 Nissan Altima 2.4 Amsoil SS 5W-30

 

[madtrucker2016]

********, I’ve changed a lot of brakes on Mopar sand never had that issue. Only time I’ve ever seen that is when someone ****** up installing or removing it.


2018 2500 6.4 4x4 4.10 Amsoil SS 0w-40, Softopper
Black Rhino Arsenal 18x9 +12mm
Cooper St MAXX LT295/70R18

66RFE/68RFE Thermo Bypass Valve Install


2016 Durango 5.7 AWD 3.07 Redline 5W-30 RP 10-48
1996 Nissan Altima 2.4 Amsoil SS 5W-30

helps if you use the correct wrench

 

[Ribtipram]

I agree changed plenty. But i do have to ask did you extend the piston to its max. How bad were the brakes.

 

[RoadRamblerNJ]

That story might happen all the time in HIS shop but I've never even heard of that.

I've been doing brakes both professionally and for myself for 40+ years. I'm on my 3rd Ram and Never had that happen. Never even heard of it happening.

I call B. S.

 

[averageguy]

Anything is possible I guess but it sounds like a BS story to cover some ones ass that installed them incorrectly, or the caliper just happened to fail and they are trying to steer you toward the house brand.

 

[JB1]

You need to edit the title from “Mopar brakes could have killed me”...to...”My Mechanic could have killed me”

 

[AFMoulton]

helps if you use the correct wrench

Yeah, I should have bought crows feet before I started.


2018 2500 6.4 4x4 4.10 Amsoil SS 0w-40, Softopper
Black Rhino Arsenal 18x9 +12mm
Cooper St MAXX LT295/70R18

66RFE/68RFE Thermo Bypass Valve Install


2016 Durango 5.7 AWD 3.07 Redline 5W-30 RP 10-48
1996 Nissan Altima 2.4 Amsoil SS 5W-30

 

[chrisbh17]

My guess is they didn't compress the pistons correctly and/or evenly and wiped out the seals.

 

[crazykid1994]

I did this once on a boat trailer when I used Chanel lock pliers to compress the piston and unknowingly to me at the time I didn’t push it in evenly and it tore the inner seal. I think it was bad luck as I had done the other 3 no problems. Now I use a caliper tool to ensure even compression when resetting the piston. It’s a universal kit with different attachments for vehicles including cars with the parking brake built into the caliper that you have to do some weird twist and press to release them. Other than that one instance I’ve never had a brake caliper do that.

 

[chrisbh17]

The kit is great, especially for older vehicles that still use the "pins on a cube" type tool.

But the way Ive been doing it for years is simple: put the old pad back on the caliper, backwards (friction material against piston) and get yourself an Irwin (or whatever brand) speed clamp. Crack open the bleeder screw, attach a hose to catch brake fluid and clamp down on the pad with the clamp centered in the pad and the rear of the clamp on the back of the caliper case.

Once the piston is retracted, tighten the bleeder screw and you are done.

Always retracts them evenly (even 2 piston), wont harm any parts and the possibly dirty fluid that was in the caliper goes out the bleeder screw instead of back into the lines.

 

[Elevated 2013]

Whether I’ve done the brakes at a shop, dealership, my house, or the customer’s house, in 25 years of working on cars and more brake jobs than I want to count, I have had 1 caliper go bad on me and it was due to both the inboard and outboard pads being on their backing plate and the piston would go back in. Which was no fault of my own and the car had over 100,000 miles on it.

I’m calling BS and say that the mechanic made a mistake and doesn’t want to own up to it. I’ve worked on a majority of manufacturers over the years except for the exotics and some rare imports and haven’t seen or even been able to come close to a claim like that. Time to find a new mechanic that will own up to his mistakes and make things right when they make a mistake.

 

[MarshRam]

I'll get some more pics of the Caliper up close a little later now that it is off the truck. And, I'll provide some more of that sauce I mentioned that gave me the feeling I was being BS'd..

@AFMoulton
Giving mechanic the benefit of the doubt with the title initially, but sounds like I might change it soon based on the feedback!

Anyhow, here is a pic of the caliper while it was on. See the inner guide pin dust boot, it's all mangled. I know it was the seals that blew and no fluid leaks from this boot, but I'm wondering if it was like that after install or if that happened because the seals failed. If it happened at install, it is additional proof of carelessness.

 

[chrisbh17]

I know it was pretty short after getting it done, but a mangled dust boot could let dirt, sand, etc into where the slider needs to slide. Eventually that will cause it to freeze up, which will lead to the piston being stuck which could lead to a busted seal.

If they didnt take the time to make sure the boots were correct, I wouldnt trust them to not lie about why the seals blew out, either.

 

[MarshRam]

Here is a pic of that boot (pic#2). See that hole, it is not ripped all the way around, just a nice hole that is the same size as that guide pin.

So in pic 1, where you see this while it was installed, it appears it is impossible that boot got pulled out since it is not torn all the way around. In fact, looks like the bolt was screwed right through the middle of it. So, when they replaced my brakes and rotors, they had to remove and put this pin back in while resetting the calipers, is that correct?

For the record, this was the trucks first brake change, 110k miles. I know, that is a lot, but this truck is pure highway miles, so the brakes lasted a long time

 

[RLJ10X]

Seriously. You should change the title of this thread. Not fair to MOPAR.

 

[MarshRam]

Seriously. You should change the title of this thread. Not fair to MOPAR.

I now have to agree at this point. Mechanic has lost the benefit of the doubt. Title has been updated!

 

[Elevated 2013]

Yes, that pin has to be removed in order to take the caliper off. Which means, when they put it back on, they weren’t paying attention and used their air ratchet or impact gun to drive the screw, through the boot or just purely way over tightened it causing the boot to tear. The chances of that boot with new pads and rotor causing the caliper to fail that quickly is not likely. The cause was either they didn’t properly seat the caliper or they didn’t inspect the caliper when it was removed and properly alert you that it could fail because of age or a bad deal or whatever. It’s negligence on their part any way you look at it.

 

[MarshRam]

And for the record, this is not "My Mechanic". He was backed up with work because he does great work, I just got stuck in a spot where I needed this done asap and he couldn't fit me in on time. I'll be getting his input on this as well.

 

[AFMoulton]

Agreed with all above, he definitely didn’t take his time, and/or wasn’t paying attention, hopefully the caliper can be saved, but you are on the right track


2018 2500 6.4 4x4 4.10 Amsoil SS 0w-40, Softopper
Black Rhino Arsenal 18x9 +12mm
Cooper St MAXX LT295/70R18

66RFE/68RFE Thermo Bypass Valve Install


2016 Durango 5.7 AWD 3.07 Redline 5W-30 RP 10-48
1996 Nissan Altima 2.4 Amsoil SS 5W-30