Nearly free AGS delete

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hunterdan

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I found a method to delete the ags for under $1, without having to pull the ags motor apart and reclock the lever arm. Need an 11/64" drill bit (or one big enough for a an 8-32 screw), an 8-32x1.5" screw and 4 nuts for said screw.
Remove the ags assembly and pop the motor out. Drill out the top divot where the locating pin for the case is (where most kits have you drill out). Thread 2 nuts on to the screw all the way to the head. Pop the screw into the hole you drilled with the head and nuts on the same side as the lever arm. Then simply lock the screw down with another nut or 2 to keep it from working loose. This essentially mimics the same amount of travel the arm would go through while still in the ags assembly, so no trimming or moving the lever arm is necessary. Once that is done, plug the motor back in and mount it somewhere out of the way. I had originally made a spacer out of stainless I was going to use, but it ended up being to thick in diameter and didn't offer enough travel. The nuts were slightly smaller and did what I needed them to do. Made a few trips and key cycles with no check engine lights. Took longer to take the ags assembly out and fish the motor out of it.
The stainless spacer you see is simply to take up any extra thread on the screw and really isn't needed.
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crazykid1994

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I did something similar. Used a drill and tap bit for an #8-32 screw and drilled through the plastic in the same spot and screwed in a screw until the screw head was even with the middle of the arm. No issues. Over 4 years later and still no CEL.
 
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hunterdan

hunterdan

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I had a check engine light pop up the morning after. I think this has more to do with me disconnecting the motor to work on it. Cleared the code and hasn't come back since. Coolant Temps are not going above 203/205. Bouncing between 199 and 203 for the most part. I have a 180 degree thermostat somewhere I may put in.
 

Wild one

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I had a check engine light pop up the morning after. I think this has more to do with me disconnecting the motor to work on it. Cleared the code and hasn't come back since. Coolant Temps are not going above 203/205. Bouncing between 199 and 203 for the most part. I have a 180 degree thermostat somewhere I may put in.
It might come back on between 500 and a 1,000 miles,but if it does,it's easily cleared.Some trucks work good with that style of mod,while other trucks will occassionally turn on the check engine light
 
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hunterdan

hunterdan

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It might come back on between 500 and a 1,000 miles,but if it does,it's easily cleared.Some trucks work good with that style of mod,while other trucks will occassionally turn on the check engine light
I spend a good portion of my drive on the highway, so it should be cycling the motor a decent amount, plus the normal start up sequence it goes through. We'll see how it holds up.
 

Black1500Ram

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Well that was the fastest mod I did to my truck.. 15 mins start to finish?

I didn’t even have to unplug the module.

Thanks for the write up.

I used a 3/16” drill bit didn’t have an 11/64”
 
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blackbetty14

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Just wanted to piggy back off this thread to see how it’s working out? I just did this mod tonight as my truck took a tonno cover to the front at highway speed and apparently stripped the inside of the AGS motor/actuator. I had to find a new motor and wanted to delete the AGS system. So I marked the OEM actuator/motor at the fully closed position and then it hit the stop at fully open. By putting the bolt I. The hole like you did that significantly reduces the amount of travel compared to stock. I attached a few pics to show what I’m talking about. The red circle is the stop For fully open. Is this still working out for all you guys?
 

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Stubbyjk

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what are the proposed benefits of stopping the AGS? Does seem easy enough to do.
 

G-Ride990

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what are the proposed benefits of stopping the AGS? Does seem easy enough to do.
Stays cooler.

AGS cycles open and closed while driving for various reasons. But it basically has the effect of making our trucks run hotter and gives a slight bump in mpg for various reasons.

Some gen 4 trucks don't even come with AGS. I deleted mine with a kit from a guy of FB that was recommended here. Been years and about 50k miles now, zero negatives for me. But, I do live in a warmer climate. It has only gotten to freezing temps a few times this year and my truck is kept in the garage. So if you live in a cold climate and keep your truck outside, your heater will warm up faster with AGS intact.
 
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hunterdan

hunterdan

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Just wanted to piggy back off this thread to see how it’s working out? I just did this mod tonight as my truck took a tonno cover to the front at highway speed and apparently stripped the inside of the AGS motor/actuator. I had to find a new motor and wanted to delete the AGS system. So I marked the OEM actuator/motor at the fully closed position and then it hit the stop at fully open. By putting the bolt I. The hole like you did that significantly reduces the amount of travel compared to stock. I attached a few pics to show what I’m talking about. The red circle is the stop For fully open. Is this still working out for all you guys?
I had to modify it slightly, since after a few days I started getting a check engine light for the ags. I do believe it wasn't cycling far enough. I ended bolting a small cable clamp I had laying around. If I remember, I'll update the thread with some newer pics to show what exactly is done. That said, I haven't had an issue since, over 10k miles.
 

ramffml

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I'm still on the fence about the AGS delete. I removed all but two rows of the slats in mine. My truck will run a tiny bit cooler once it's fully warmed up but I haven't noticed any issues with "taking longer to warm up" in the winter time. It doesn't get "alberta cold" where I live, but still well below freezing.

I've watched the temps like a hawk for the last 2 years because some trips in the winter if I don't get the oil above 55C then lifters will rattle on the next start. It hasn't taken any longer to reach 55C based on the same locations I'm driving too before/after the delete.

Haven't noticed any difference while towing either. Perhaps they've tuned it in the 5th gens to work smarter and not have the slats closed off once temps start to climb.
 

blackbetty14

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I had to modify it slightly, since after a few days I started getting a check engine light for the ags. I do believe it wasn't cycling far enough. I ended bolting a small cable clamp I had laying around. If I remember, I'll update the thread with some newer pics to show what exactly is done. That said, I haven't had an issue since, over 10k miles.
Yea, that’s what I figured. I made a bracket for the exact throw as stock. Been over a month and no codes.
 

blackbetty14

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I'm still on the fence about the AGS delete. I removed all but two rows of the slats in mine. My truck will run a tiny bit cooler once it's fully warmed up but I haven't noticed any issues with "taking longer to warm up" in the winter time. It doesn't get "alberta cold" where I live, but still well below freezing.

I've watched the temps like a hawk for the last 2 years because some trips in the winter if I don't get the oil above 55C then lifters will rattle on the next start. It hasn't taken any longer to reach 55C based on the same locations I'm driving too before/after the delete.

Haven't noticed any difference while towing either. Perhaps they've tuned it in the 5th gens to work smarter and not have the slats closed off once temps start to climb.
Same, I knoticed slightly slower warm up temps but I’ve been hovering around 199 with the stock Tstat. I feel like warm up 170-199 is slower on highway which is typically when I’m on the highway commuting into work. Overall oil and trans temps are unaffected in overall temp.
 

ThunderMug95

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I ran for years with only 2 slats in there after I installed my vararam. I went to do this mod so I could pull this whole unit out…and had a thought. I had just got a tune from Hemifever, so I asked him if he could code it out. He said he would try and sure enough, its coded out and the motor is ziptied down and forgotten.
 

blackbetty14

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I ran for years with only 2 slats in there after I installed my vararam. I went to do this mod so I could pull this whole unit out…and had a thought. I had just got a tune from Hemifever, so I asked him if he could code it out. He said he would try and sure enough, its coded out and the motor is ziptied down and forgotten.
Glad to hear its possible. I wish it was on AlfaOBD but I haven't heard anyone doing it. If I wanted a tune on my 18 I would need a new unlocked PCM and all the fixings lol... Not going to pay $1500+ for a AGS delete!
 

ThunderMug95

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Glad to hear its possible. I wish it was on AlfaOBD but I haven't heard anyone doing it. If I wanted a tune on my 18 I would need a new unlocked PCM and all the fixings lol... Not going to pay $1500+ for a AGS delete!
I swapped my PCM. $550 for the swap and Diablo i3. Then $325to Hemifever for 93 octane & ZF trans tune. Sean coded out the AGS, set my temps for efan, etc. totally different truck. I have my stock tune on my laptop and backed up on an external drive.
 

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