Need a cam and lifters…

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fadetoblack188

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So my lifter is shot. And wiping the cam.

What lifters and cam should I put in it??


2014 5.7. Motor has 130k on it
 

Wild one

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Haha I wish

Think I’m gunna go aftermarket cam and lifters
Talk to Flying Ryan / FRP or Matt Fikac at Moes,give them your truck specs,and what you do with the truck,and they'll be able to help you out ,with picking a cam suitable for your circumstances. You're always better off talking to the guys in the cam business when it comes to picking a cam. I usually reconmend hunting up phone numbers and talking one to one,then doing it via message.
 

Burla

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Mds and OEM cam lifters arent the issue, what the issue is = the hemi design. So be careful if you delete mds, many times this will actually cause an immediate issue. You can use oem if you want, or not whatever. Look at the lubrication strategies to may help avoid this in the future. There is very little you can do when the design fails to properly lubricate, but if you delete mds you can actually create a situation where there throws a code and even worse fails to lubricate the engine, it has to be done appropriately but even if you do that doesnt prevent future cam issues. High molybdenum, the correct kind, can help poorly lubricated parts. It creates a plating effect in combo with other beneficial additives this can stop hemi tick in trucks that have hemi tick on oils that do not have these features.
 

BadHemi2014

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I went to a local speed shop. It was great talking to the guys in person and discussing what my goals for the truck were and what options I had. Plus they offer dyno tuning and custom exhaust. It might not be in your budget but it's a great option if there's anyone in your area familiar with hemis and their issues.
 
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fadetoblack188

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what did it cost you guys to have them replaced? i think i am going to get the parts and tackle the job my self.

guess ill need head gaskets and timing cover gasket to.
 

Black1500Ram

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what did it cost you guys to have them replaced? i think i am going to get the parts and tackle the job my self.

guess ill need head gaskets and timing cover gasket to.
See my Failed lifters thread I have a parts list breakdown in it. MDS came to about $1700 give or take including some water pump stuff. It’ll be more if you replace your oil pump and discharge your AC.

If you plan on going to an aftermarket cam, double that due to cam cost (~$7-900), valve springs and tuning needed (~$1100 - HP Tuners). Since yours is a 14 you shouldn’t have a locked pcm so don’t have to pony up an additional $250 just to unlock it.
 
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fadetoblack188

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i am on the fence on weather i wanna do it myself or not... i was told 1200 labor he will do it for... i am mechanically inclined i can do it.. but is it worth my time and headache for 1200.
 

Burla

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But to use oem MDS parts or delete MDS using OEM non MDS parts, that is the question!

I’ve got my answer, just saying.
The best you can hope for if it is done right, is a neutral outcome as far as hemi tick and cam lifters is concerned, as non mds hemi's also have cam fails and hemi tick. But I agree with you 100%, I'd prefer to not have mds on my 5.7, but this forum is also littered with people who mds delete only to have cam fails. I just replied in one today, see my posts if anyone is interested, dude did mds delete 15k miles later time for another cam. The largest issue with mds is it came on rams in the first place, but the delete is a pig and a poke if it was done right or not.
 
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fadetoblack188

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Guys is it possible to have a failed lifter without a misfire? This thing still runs perfect
 

Black1500Ram

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Guys is it possible to have a failed lifter without a misfire? This thing still runs perfect
yes it is. That’s what I believe I have right now.

My understanding is a misfire cel will only show when the cam is worn enough such that the duration &/or lift of valve opening is far enough off from ideal conditions for combustion that the pcm hits its threshold for misfire.

The roller bearing can be ceased where it will still ride the cam lobe and keep opening and closing the valve in time (no change to duration or lift). But due to it being ceased it will now wear the cam lobe surface over time.

The other failure is a collapsed lifter (what I think I have), where the the pushrod end of the lifter has a failure such that the inner portion collapses (spring or clip breaks, who knows), and basically causes excessive valve lash and you get loud tapping. In this case, timing is still unaffected, you just get the tapping as the excess lash is taken up with the rotation of the cam. This could potentially bend a pushrod.
 
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fadetoblack188

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how long you think the motor can wait in this condition... how long before it starts misfiring you think? i am going to start ordering parts
 

Wild one

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