Need help regarding start issue.

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9th

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2012 1500 5.7L

The way I start my truck is insert the keyfob and turn directly to ''start" position.
This time it failed to start. It will only start after 3 to 5 attempt.
But I have no issue putting the Key to Run position for at least 5 sec then start the engine.(Priming?)

Battery before start is around 12.5V and down to 7.9V~11.2V during start-up. 13.7V idle and 14.2V during truck running at 1200~1500rpm.

I already replaced the WIM and the Starter.

The fuel pump seems ok and I tried to bypass the TIPM relay.

I went to Auto Zone to test the alternator diode and battery, all is Ok. First attempt of Engine Start, the tester shows that Starter drawing too much current but passed after 2nd test.
I'm not sure if the Auto Zone Alt diode tester is reliable.

Thanks in Advance.
 
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9th

9th

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The Battery is new from Dodge, still under warranty. The Dodge Service Tech tested the battery is ok.

In Auto Zone he showed me the tester display that says Alt Diode-Passed. Which is I am confused because isn't it needs to open up the Alt to test all the diode?
 
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huntergreen

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I’m thinking fuel pump issue.
 
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9th

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I’m thinking fuel pump issue.
That's what I'm thinking too because the issue seems gone if I'm not using the Remote Start. Put the keyfob to RUN position, wait for 5 seconds before turning ON the engine.
Could be somewhere in the fuel system loosing some pressure to hold the fuel prime.
Could be the Tank Filler Cap Rubber seal because I can't feel any tightness. Or the injector because I'm loosing power when flooring the gas pedal at 2000rpm.

Not sure if between the fuel pump to fuel injector has a check valve that need to see.
 
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LouM

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Possibly a plugged filter making the fuel pump work harder.
 

Rlaf75

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When you say "failed to start" does that mean the engine was turning over but would not start or the engine did not turn over at all?
 
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9th

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Sound like a short "tsug" when turning the keyfob to start position(not staying at run position for 5 sec). I've been doing this since day 1. Though the Remote Start delayed time I think 3 seconds.

After that issue, the engine start only by putting first the keyfob in run position for 5 counts then start. That's for long off or overnight.

I'm thinking also the prime is leaking back to tank or something wrong one of the injector.
I have a missfire code everytime I floor the gas at 2000rpm(6th gear). It will insanely vibrating until I release back the gas. This never happen before. My other solution is to do a manual down gear to have an early downshifting.
My truck is already 140k+ maybe time to replace the whole injector.
 
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huntergreen

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Hard to describe the sounds. Like a short "tsug" sounds when turning the keyfob to start position. It's my habit not to stay in run position for at least a few seconds. Or using my Remote Start with a delay time I think 3 seconds.
But now after that issue, the engine start by putting first the keyfob in run position for 5 counts then start.

I am thinking the prime is leaking back or something wrong one of the injector.
I have a missfire code when flooring the gas at 2000rpm. It will insanely vibrate. This never happen before. My solution is to do a manual down gear to have an early downshifting.
My truck is already 140k+ maybe time to replace the whole injector.
Have you had codes read ?
 

Phirebeard

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Code is cylinder 7 misfire. Have you changed the spark plugs? 100k is the plug interval. It may help. The starting issue sounds fuel related to me. Rather than just throwing parts at it, take it to a shop and have it diagnosed.
 
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9th

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Code is cylinder 7 misfire. Have you changed the spark plugs? 100k is the plug interval. It may help. The starting issue sounds fuel related to me. Rather than just throwing parts at it, take it to a shop and have it diagnosed.
Thanks.

After replacing the plug, The code is not coming back but flooring the gas at 2000rpm(5th or 6th gear) especially going uphill at interstate is causing an insane vibration of engine. The auto downshifting of gear is delayed. No problem using manual.
Could be the injector or the coil pack.
I hate or no plan yet to go to shop especially dealership for diagnostic. Could be the last resort until I can't find the solution in all the forums, youtubes, or fb groups. As of now I rather spent my money to my "aging" parts(injector or coil pack or fuel pump).
 
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Phirebeard

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If it was an injector, the computer should still register a misfire on that cylinder. Since the code went away, I'd look at the fuel pump next.
 
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huntergreen

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Hopefully you’re not dropping a lifter. Have it diagnosed so you don’t wipe out the camshaft.
 

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