Need help with a oil change situation

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AJNY

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Any gas station you stop at will have the right oil. Gas stations are always open.
 

Sherman Bird

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Thanks, I didn’t know if I could put a little on top the cover the 2 qts I didn’t have but I won’t do that lol.

When changing your oil I’ve seen people talking about filling the filter. Never heard of that till recently can you explain that and what it’s for?
The lower number is germane to pour point in Zero degree weather. Once warmed up, they both become 40 weight.... I'd NEVER add contaminated old oil to clean oil.... that defeats the purpose of changing the oil.
 

Dan Topp

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I’ve often wanted to put other then 5-20 in my ram but remember that todays super oil could be a band aid for a poor oiling system,and Cold starts can’t be avoided.I save the oil I want to get rid of for the vette with a heater on its dry sump ,genny that has two oil heaters or the mower.
 

REDNECK28871

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My buddy has a sign in his garage stating " POOR PLANING ON YOUR PART DOES NOT CONSTITUTE AN EMERGENCY ON OUR PART" just saying.
 

DA Smith

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I've never heard so much stupid whining about adding two quarts of 15/40 oil to five quarts of 0/40 oil on an oil change! This will not hurt or change a single thing with your engine! You whining oil worrying people need to chill out, no big deal!!
 

joesstripclub

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My buddy has a sign in his garage stating " POOR PLANING ON YOUR PART DOES NOT CONSTITUTE AN EMERGENCY ON OUR PART" just saying.
I have that sign in my office. Contractors are always fun to deal with. I also have a "Dont argue with the Engineer" sign I found at a train store.
 

Dusty

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The lower number is germane to pour point in Zero degree weather. Once warmed up, they both become 40 weight.... I'd NEVER add contaminated old oil to clean oil.... that defeats the purpose of changing the oil.
I understood what this was trying to convey, but at the same time this could cause some confusion.

The zero in a multi-viscosity oil is actually a relative figure assigned by the SAE to define the low temperature cranking viscosity and pumpability characteristics of a winter blend oil at fixed temperatures, irrespective of the actual pour-point of the particular blend.

For 0W-xx oils the low temperature pumpability standard is at -40 centigrade; for 5W-xx oils it would be -35 centigrade, and so on for heavier blends.

Pour-point simply represents the lowest temperature at which oil will gravity flow, which there is a separate SAE test for.

As to the other comments, I whole heartily agree.

Regards,
Dusty
2019 Ram 1500 Billet Silver Quad Cab 2WD, 5.7 Hemi, 8HP75, 3.21 axle, 33-gallon fuel tank, factory dual exhaust, 18” wheels. Build date: 3 June 2018. Now at 84919 miles
 

Sherman Bird

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I understood what this was trying to convey, but at the same time this could cause some confusion.

The zero in a multi-viscosity oil is actually a relative figure assigned by the SAE to define the low temperature cranking viscosity and pumpability characteristics of a winter blend oil at fixed temperatures, irrespective of the actual pour-point of the particular blend.

For 0W-xx oils the low temperature pumpability standard is at -40 centigrade; for 5W-xx oils it would be -35 centigrade, and so on for heavier blends.

Pour-point simply represents the lowest temperature at which oil will gravity flow, which there is a separate SAE test for.

As to the other comments, I whole heartily agree.

Regards,
Dusty
2019 Ram 1500 Billet Silver Quad Cab 2WD, 5.7 Hemi, 8HP75, 3.21 axle, 33-gallon fuel tank, factory dual exhaust, 18” wheels. Build date: 3 June 2018. Now at 84919 miles
Potatos. potahtos.... YAWN
 

skbball06

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2016 ram 2500 HEMI 6.4 L

So what’s happening right now is my tick has gotten worse ever since I did my last oil change and I don’t know necessarily why. I use the same oil which is the **** that you’re supposed to use apparently 0W 40 mobile one.

The problem I’m having right now is I have one jug of Mobil1 0w40 5qt. I need 7qt to do an oil change as we all know, I don’t have another 2 qt… I have a half jug of Delo 15w40 for the skytrak at work and that’s it. It’s 12:30 AM and nothing is open right now I am supposed to be showing the truck in the morning while at work to sell it. I have no time in the morning to go to Walmart and get oil and change it all before work and dropping my son off at school and showing this truck to this guy in order to sell it what I’m trying to do is use the 5 quarts I have a W 40 and wonder if I can use 2 quarts of 15 W 40 and if I can, what would it do, can it help the tick that I’m experiencing or will it make it worse? Can I even use 15 W 40 and my engine with it being two different brands of oil? Sorry guys but let’s keep in mind real quick that I am clueless on everything that has to do with oil and all the special little things that are inside of oil and what they do. I know nothing about it. Please don’t treat me too bad on this question. If you can help me understand what I can do to help my situation or if I can use 2 quarts of the 15w 40 on top of the other five of 0W40
Thanks in advance
Have you looked into an oil additive with the new oil? Look into BG MOA, BG Rf7 worth reading up on them.
 

Sherman Bird

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The lower number is germane to pour point in Zero degree weather. Once warmed up, they both become 40 weight.... I'd NEVER add contaminated old oil to clean oil.... that defeats the purpose of changing the oil.
I ALWAYS prefill the filter when possible. This prevents excess oil pump cavitation upon initial start up after oil change. I also will start a car up and let the engine run for only 1 second and repeat that 3 times until starting up for real in instances where the filter cannot be prefilled. (A lot of canister filters) I ALWAYS put vehicles in clear flood mode (this disables the fuel) and crank until I get oil pressure on Turbo cars/ trucks. Some makers do not have this function, but all domestics do with OBD2 in my own experience. (This is accomplished by flooring the gas pedal while cranking.... make sure the pedal is COMPLELY floored, and be ware of those vehicles which continue to crank after you let off the key or push button, otherwise it'll start and startle YOU!)
 

62Blazer

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I simply can't believe that people recommend pouring 2 quarts of the old oil back in! My concern isn't the condition of the oil right as it comes out of the engine, but all the crap it picks up in the oil pan or jug you are driaining it into! Just slightly behind that is people suggesting to drive it 2 quarts low! I could maybe understand if you didn't have any other oil at all, but the fact that they suggest those two options versus adding 2 quarts of fresh clean oil that is just very slightly different. I can't count how many times I've mixed oil over the years when doing a change. Granted, I always try to have the proper weight oil available but there has been many times I've needed an extra quart or so to top off an engine and have used whatever is laying around (I'm talking new oil, not used oil and not like 90w gear oil or something........).
I have never pre-filled the oil filter, and have been doing all of my own oil changes on the family cars for 20+ years. We have had multiple vehicles that we put well over 100k on with no issues.......my last truck had 150k on it and the wife's vehicle had 130k on it when traded in. As mentioned previously the entire engine is coated with oil after you drain the crank so not like it is actually "dry" or anything. On a truck V-8 there is probably still 1-2 quarts of oil coating the engine after you pull the drain pan, even if you let it sit for 2 hour dripping.
 

Sherman Bird

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I simply can't believe that people recommend pouring 2 quarts of the old oil back in! My concern isn't the condition of the oil right as it comes out of the engine, but all the crap it picks up in the oil pan or jug you are driaining it into! Just slightly behind that is people suggesting to drive it 2 quarts low! I could maybe understand if you didn't have any other oil at all, but the fact that they suggest those two options versus adding 2 quarts of fresh clean oil that is just very slightly different. I can't count how many times I've mixed oil over the years when doing a change. Granted, I always try to have the proper weight oil available but there has been many times I've needed an extra quart or so to top off an engine and have used whatever is laying around (I'm talking new oil, not used oil and not like 90w gear oil or something........).
I have never pre-filled the oil filter, and have been doing all of my own oil changes on the family cars for 20+ years. We have had multiple vehicles that we put well over 100k on with no issues.......my last truck had 150k on it and the wife's vehicle had 130k on it when traded in. As mentioned previously the entire engine is coated with oil after you drain the crank so not like it is actually "dry" or anything. On a truck V-8 there is probably still 1-2 quarts of oil coating the engine after you pull the drain pan, even if you let it sit for 2 hour dripping.
100,000 miles is no longer a realistic benchmark. My vehicles are older. One has 166,000 miles, another has 230,000 miles, and the other has 253,000 miles. I'm confident in them all to get in and go from Houston, Texas to Cleveland, Ohio... no problem.

Cars and trucks today cost 7 times what my parents paid for their first house in 1956. My first house cost on par with an average truck today.... not near the top of the line. These 6 figure trucks common today OWE 450,000 miles to the owner.
I work on and successfully maintain and repair vehicles kissing 300,000 miles. These are good running, well kempt vehicles capable of cross country treks.
 

airrecon

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I would hope you don't try using 15w 40 oil. I'm not sure what this may do...
Do you still have your old dirty 0w40 oil that you drained? If yes then just use the 5qt of new oil and rest just put in your old oil, at least this won't harm anything...

As far as your engine noise, it should be same as before. Any "fix" from oil usually takes 500 miles or so to kick in, so it's not instant by any means.

Just pretend like the tick is normal for hemi and say it's just injectors...
NO, NO, do not mix the oils. Never. And use what your book recommends
 
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