Need jumper cable recommendations

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BossHogg

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Once the cables are properly hooked up,then you start the good/donor car,you should never hook the cables up while the donor car is running.

They are wrong, do not turn the engine off on the booster vehicle before connecting the jumper cables.

Why? Once the jumper cables are connected to both vehicles, power starts to transfer from the booster vehicle to the dead battery. Depending on the time it takes to restart the engine on the booster vehicle and the booster vehicle battery's health could result in two vehicles not starting.

As far as voltage spikes killing off the vehicle electronics, my question is, where are the spikes coming from? A voltage spike significate enough to cause damage has to be sourced from somewhere. We are talking about connecting two 12-volt systems together to transfer power from one to the other. This is not the electrical grid where high and low voltages can get mixed causing spikes. The electrical grid has voltage levels from 110 kV with some transmission lines carrying voltages as high as 765 kV. These do cause spikes in our 110/220-volt feeds as does distant lightning strikes and high winds.

Any voltage fluctuation caused by making or breaking the connection is absorbed by the battery which can be seen in this context as a very large capacitor, or in other words, a voltage spike filter. Electrically, there is no difference between hooking up a booster vehicle with a running engine or a jump pack since they both provide the same, 12vdc.

Since current flows from negative to positive, always connect or disconnect the negative cable first. I know, the popular belief is current flows positive to negative but that isn't the case.
 
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Wild one

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They are wrong, do not turn the engine off on the booster vehicle before connecting the jumper cables.

Why? Once the jumper cables are connected to both vehicles, power starts to transfer from the booster vehicle to the dead battery. Depending on the time it takes to restart the engine on the booster vehicle and the booster vehicle battery's health could result in two vehicles not starting.

As far as voltage spikes killing off the vehicle electronics, my question is, where are the spikes coming from? A voltage spike significate enough to cause damage has to be sourced from somewhere. We are talking about connecting two 12-volt systems together to transfer power from one to the other. This is not the electrical grid where high and low voltages can get mixed causing spikes. The electrical grid has voltage levels from 110 kV with some transmission lines carrying voltages as high as 765 kV. These do cause spikes in our 110/220-volt feeds as does distant lightning strikes and high winds.

Any voltage fluctuation caused by making or breaking the connection is absorbed by the battery which can be seen in this context as a very large capacitor, or in other words, a voltage spike filter. Electrically, there is no difference between hooking up a booster vehicle with a running engine or a jump pack since they both provide the same, 12vdc.

Since current flows from negative to positive, always connect or disconnect the negative cable first. I know, the popular belief is current flows positive to negative but that isn't the case.
I highly doubt your theory ,so i'm gonna have to disagree with you .The only thing i'll agree with,is the battery does act like a big capacitor,but that's all.You're going to have to find something that backs up your theory.
 

pacofortacos

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I don't disagree with what bosshogg says, except that I hook the negative up last and disconnect it first always on the discharged battery. Has nothing to do with how electrons flow though - has to do with the negative is the system ground and many functions are switched ground controlled now days. Hard to damage anything doing the negative that way.

Using a jump pack is doing the same thing as using a running vehicle - neither is 12 volts when attached and energized. As soon as you energize a jump pack the voltage goes from 0v to 14-16 volts - same as hooking up a running donor.

I've also always hooked up low battery last - reason is (mainly because back in the day), the running or recently running battery could have gas from the vents on that battery and sparks and gas just doesn't mix well. Not much chance of any gas at the discharged battery.
 
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Wild one

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I don't disagree with what bosshogg says, except that I hook the negative up last and disconnect it first always on the discharged battery. Has nothing to do with how electrons flow though - has to do with the negative is the system ground and many functions are switched ground controlled now days. Hard to damage anything doing the negative that way.

Using a jump pack is doing the same thing as using a running vehicle - neither is 12 volts when attached and energized. As soon as you energize a jump pack the voltage goes from 0v to 14-16 volts - same as hooking up a running donor.

I've also always hooked up low battery last - reason is (mainly because back in the day), the running or recently running battery could have gas from the vents on that battery and sparks and gas just doesn't mix well. Not much chance of any gas at the discharged battery.
You 2 are going to have to find something to back up your theory ,this isn't 1970 anymore .Find an article that says you should have the donor vehicle running while you hook up the booster cables on any car after 2000,i know both of you are old farts,but you should both know the cars of today,aren't the same cars you grew up with

 

RamDiver

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I don't disagree with what bosshogg says, except that I hook the negative up last and disconnect it first always on the discharged battery. Has nothing to do with how electrons flow though - has to do with the negative is the system ground and many functions are switched ground controlled now days. Hard to damage anything doing the negative that way.

Using a jump pack is doing the same thing as using a running vehicle - neither is 12 volts when attached and energized. As soon as you energize a jump pack the voltage goes from 0v to 14-16 volts - same as hooking up a running donor.

I've also always hooked up low battery last - reason is (mainly because back in the day), the running or recently running battery could have gas from the vents on that battery and sparks and gas just doesn't mix well. Not much chance of any gas at the discharged battery.

I agree with always connecting the negative last on the dead battery side and ideally to a good ground, not the battery terminal. I was taught this method the same as pacofotacos, to prevent the spark from igniting any battery gasses. And, that same connection is always removed first for the same reason.

I don't see the point of connecting terminals based on the flow of electrons. There will be zero conductivity until you complete the circuit by connecting the last terminal anyway.

As for having the donor side running during the connection of the jumper cables, what is the logic there? I have a 2021 or a post-2000 vehicle with more computing power than the original Apollo 11 mission, and I should keep it running why? That sounds like a huge failure in logic, no offense intended.

If you want to charge the dead battery, why not turn off your donor vehicle while connecting and then start it again to charge the dead battery? I would still turn off the donor vehicle before attempting to start with the dead battery.

Before you consider trying to be that great awesome guy and saving the poor stranded motorist by charging his battery with your $70K or more rolling battery charger, you might want to be 99% certain you're not connecting your fancy charger with some electrical nightmare that's going to pooch your charger. There's being a nice guy and then there's just being... :cool:

This isn't the old days, these vehicles are high-tech and highly susceptible to serious damage from the most insignificant of electrical surges. Why gamble on damaging your vehicle like this? I don't understand.

The batteries of today may not vent as much gas as those from many decades ago but logic would tell me that I'm going to create some amount of sparks with the final connection, which should happen at a ground point instead of at a potential source of explosive fumes, no matter how small the risk. Why do it any other way? Not enough excitement in your life these days? Do you fill your gas tank while smoking too? :cool:
.
 
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Black1500Ram

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For jumper cables, make sure that you get no less than #8 cables,
#16 cables are the very worse cables
#1 or #2 are used in welding cable


jump starters

I concur - I have 2 gauge cables now after helping someone jump their car with cheap 8 gauge ones. They got so hot I could barely touch them after. They were probably cca or something. I’ve never had cables do that before but it was enough to make me buy my own.

Spartan is the brand I got on amazon. But there are other ones that are cheaper that I would probably buy if I had to again. 2 gauge pure copper is my rec.
 

pcwizard2600

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I personally would never jump another from my own vehicle. While I have an automotive background and know the right way to do things, I just don't want to chance things with the electronics in my vehicle. That being said, I do have a jumper pack that I would use if ever needed. I have good jumper cables as a last resort, but would never use them to jump someone else, only to get myself up and running. Call me selfish, but I call it safe. In today's world everyone is just looking for an opportunity to blame someone else if something goes wrong. The reality of it is, if I don't have my pack with me, I'm calling AAA.
 

troverman

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Polar Wire jumpers. Really good quality, work great in the cold. I have a 25' set at 4GA and an 8', 8GA set (for my 4-stroke snowmobile). The little jump boxes don't work when they're sitting in your vehicle at -25F like we just had last weekend; the jumper cables always work. I have no problem jump starting from my brand new truck to another vehicle. Done it many, many times.
 

znrh

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What brands would you recommend for a new set of jumper cables? Criteria; Heavy duty, 16-20ft, Definitely metal clamps, Willing to pay for quality.
The old set my dad had for years was ok but one of the plastic clamp handles broke. Plus those clamps didn't open very wide and are hard to secure in some cases on newer trucks. Thanks.
I would recommend purchasing the Lokithor unit

LOKITHOR JA300 Jump Starter with Air Compressor, 1500Amp 12V Car Battery Booster for Up to 7L Gas or 4.5L Diesel, 150 PSI Tire Inflator with Digital Screen, 24 Months Ultra-Long Standby avail at Amazon at around 150 dollars this incredible unit also provides the tire inflator with automatic shutoff and a powerful LED light and charges with USB and once charged holds the charge for 2 yrs​

 

fitz011

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A note about the jump packs: Some of you jump pack owners are going to find out(especially this summer) that the cheap capacitors used in a lot of these will expand and eventually leak rendering it weak and usually useless. when you see the seam starting to separate its beginning. Cheap capacitors don't like heat. Ask me how I know.

Two good brands that apparently use more durable capacitors are GooLoo and Noco. If you want a jump pack that is lead-cell based which bypasses any capacitor/heat issues get the JNC 660. This is a popular unit carried by a lot of tow trucks. Its heavier, 3 times as big as a capacitor-based pack but its powerful and retains a charge really well.

Either way, your looking at ~$125-150 but its going to last you yrs and will jump almost anything.
 

LOFSFIRE

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So I did not think I would see 5 pages on jump starting a car... But I'll add one more post.

I would recommend the NOCO Boost Plus GB40. Just bought is for myself and son for Christmas. I've used it twice this past week. Once on my snowmobile, which was my fault. Check the mileage when filling it up with gas before a 7 hr trip and left it on in the trailer. When I got were I was going I realized the battery was dead. Then the other day my son calls and said his battery light came on his dash. (2011 RAM) He came home I check it with a voltmeter and it pointed to the alternator. (Previous owner just had the alternator, belt and battery changed in Aug of 2022. (It was a MOPAR Remanufactured) Drove to the autoparts store to double check, and yep it's the alternator. They were out at that store so had to run up the street 10 miles. I roll the dice if we should go home a get my truck or chance it with his truck and save 20 minutes. Well as coming home more lights came on we made it in a parking lot 3 miles from our house. Pulled out the GB40 hooked it up and secured it to the battey. It was just enough power to get us home so I did not have to change the alternator in the cold.
Yes, I know that not the way it designed to be used but it worked and did what I needed. My point it is it gives options.


Here is a funny story, and the only other time I've need a jump. I had to get it from an Amish guy. I was have and air conditioner installed in a trailer a few years ago. You may or may not know RV's and trailers are made around Elkhart, IN. I found a deal on a AC unit in Shipshewana, IN and called the place set up an appointment with the guy for 7am on a Saturday. I said hey I see on google maps you have a big parking lot would you mind if I stayed Friday night in your lot. He tells me no problem but the highway is a bit noisy... (That was the first red flag.) Shipshewana is known for being Amish. So drive over there after work on Friday and get set up, grab some dinner and I'm in bed by 10pm... Now I think it got dark at that time around 8pm. So I had the trailer lights on running off my truck battery for a few hours. They are all LED and I done this before and never had an issue. As I go to bed I have the trailer windows open and I thinking it's really quite out here for just being off a State Road. I then wake up multiple times to the sound of horses up and down that same state road between 12 and 3 AM. Get up at 6AM. Looking at Google maps beforehand I knew this guy's business was at his house. So I figured I be ready early for the guy. I come out of my trailer and setup a folding chair and sit and watch the family tend to the horse, other animals and start doing daily chores... Well 7:30 comes around and no one has come down by me or the barn where the business is out of. Since I pulled in at evening time I did not pay attention to the business sign just sitting leaned up against the building. Being after my appointment I call the guy to make sure everything was still good.

He answered and said:
Him: Yep, I've been here waiting since 7.
Me: Well where are you?
Him: Standing in my empty parking lot.
Me: What! Where am I at.
Him: Not sure, did I give you the new address or did you use google maps.
Me: ahhh Google maps, remember we talked about me staying the night.
Him: Oh yeah, I forgot to give you my new address, I'm right down the road...
Me: Ok be there in 10 mins (Thinking new address? That is a minor detail that was left out!)

Feeling terrible and like some weirdo that I just stayed on someone else property, I put the chair in the trailer go to start the truck and it just does a slow crank... but turn over. I thought that was odd. I must have had the lights on to long last night... but figure it would charge back up driving it. I pull up by the house and apologize. The owner said it's happen two other times and he figure I was having something done to the trailer. He planned on coming down and talking to me in a little bit but did not want to wake me to early. He was very nice and understanding.

Then I made it to the correct place I shut off the truck and the guy installed the AC unit in about 30 mins... He used a forklift to put the AC unit on top of the trailer. made the connections and he was done. Pay him and go to start my truck and nothing. I look around and I'm like this is not good. Where am I going to get someone to jump me around here. I ask him if his forklift could jump me, He said the battery was to small. But no problem he had a skid steer he would go get. Sure enough he did and that is how I had an Amish guy jump start my truck.
 

Jim113

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I bought a NOCO Genius GB70 booster pack, which can be left in your vehicle ... Just make sure to check the charge in it every few months ... I also bought a set of heavy-duty booster cables from COSTCO as a backup ... Not sure of the cable brand name but they have good length and HD clamps ...
 

zzzxhk

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jumper cables? This is what I have - https://www.hulkman.com/pages/alpha100

I'm not connecting to some strangers car/truck. Works. Used one on my 1500 when I was in Idaho and no engine block heater. Took the charger into the motel room with us and in the morning, truck started so didn't need it. The peace of mind was worth it and not having to worry about tracking down someone to get a jump from. These keep a charge and ready to go.
 

Wild one

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I bought a NOCO Genius GB70 booster pack, which can be left in your vehicle ... Just make sure to check the charge in it every few months ... I also bought a set of heavy-duty booster cables from COSTCO as a backup ... Not sure of the cable brand name but they have good length and HD clamps ...
My Noco GB70 is about 5 years old and i carry it with me when i go to the dragstrip,where it gets used a fair bit,by guys other then me,and it's still going strong.I've never tried it on a diesal,but it has started my buddies 13:1 high compression 426 with no issues.
 

pacofortacos

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You 2 are going to have to find something to back up your theory ,this isn't 1970 anymore .Find an article that says you should have the donor vehicle running while you hook up the booster cables on any car after 2000,i know both of you are old farts,but you should both know the cars of today,aren't the same cars you grew up with

I don't think it is necessary to have the donor car running, just that it doesn't hurt anything.
However, if I do not have the donor car running, I start it immediately after hooking the cables and do not give the dead battery time to drain the good battery.

Think about it though, what is the difference if you hook up a running car or hit the power button on a jump pack - both give around 14 volts and a current surge.

NOW, I will say one thing, I do not jump dead batteries only slightly discharged batteries - and esp. not dead batteries that have been sitting in very cold temperatures. If the lights don't come on, it gets charged with a charger vs. jumping.
Dead batteries won't absorb a sudden charge or act like a buffer and frozen batteries are, well just not worth it.

I do feel 1 day older than dirt with this weather! lol
 

smittyd174

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Make your own , that's what I did . Mine are 20 feet long . Get 4 arc welding clamps and use welding cable , work great easy to make .
 

Wild one

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I don't think it is necessary to have the donor car running, just that it doesn't hurt anything.
However, if I do not have the donor car running, I start it immediately after hooking the cables and do not give the dead battery time to drain the good battery.

Think about it though, what is the difference if you hook up a running car or hit the power button on a jump pack - both give around 14 volts and a current surge.

NOW, I will say one thing, I do not jump dead batteries only slightly discharged batteries - and esp. not dead batteries that have been sitting in very cold temperatures. If the lights don't come on, it gets charged with a charger vs. jumping.
Dead batteries won't absorb a sudden charge or act like a buffer and frozen batteries are, well just not worth it.

I do feel 1 day older than dirt with this weather! lol
The only time you hear of somebody having issues with a donor car after boosting another car,is when they've hooked the cables up while the donor car is running,take that as you want,but why risk it.
 

pacofortacos

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You 2 are going to have to find something to back up your theory ,this isn't 1970 anymore .Find an article that says you should have the donor vehicle running while you hook up the booster cables on any car after 2000,i know both of you are old farts,but you should both know the cars of today,aren't the same cars you grew up with

You would probably be surprised how little the difference is with today's electronics and my 1984 Turbo Z - biggest difference is they now use the bus system for a few more functions.
Other than that, it's just a faster bus now vs. then. But the 84 used a bus to communicate to the logic module, power module, body module.
Actually the fuel/ignition system is almost the same as far as design and theory. New ones use better multi point injection and more coils but overall the system is the same.
 
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