Needing to adjust Cam Bolt. Lift on Axle, Frame, or Lower Control Arm?

[MOTOBH]

First time posting and could not find the answer anywhere on the internet. So this must be an easy one for everyone, except me, haha.
I have a Stock 2016 RAM 2500 4x4 6.7. Needing to adjust the cam bolt (upper and lower) on the passenger side lower control arm. My question is where do I put the jack to lift the truck so those bolts are not loaded so I can loosen? Frame of truck, Front axle, Lower Control arm? I had had the front axle up and tried loosening those two bolts, but they wouldn't budge.

Thanks everyone for your help.
Brian

 

[McBroom]

There's not a "no load" position for these to bolts. I've had to use 2 jacks to adjust these. One on the frame an one one axle. And it was still such a ***** that I took it to the alignment shop and let them do it for me.

Blue Mule

 

[olyelr]

I would jack the frame up until the axle is hanging freely, then do it.

 

[2003F350]

If you don't have access to an alignment rack to make sure you are keeping everything within specs (or at the specs you want), you're safer to take it to an alignment shop.

That said, the best way to get a control arm into a 'no load' state is to lift from the frame, then the axle.

NEVER lift from a control arm if you can avoid it.

 

[MOTOBH]

Thanks guys for the input. I may give it a try this weekend. We'll see what happens.
Thanks Alot!
Brian

 

[22hemi13]

I do it on the ground. Loosen top bolt. Adjust cam. Drive around the block and tighten it all up. Hardest part was I had to remove lower shock to get to top bolts on arms. fYI I verified this method with both CJC off-road and Thuren

 

[SRich2015]

They are Torqued to 200 ft. Lbs. so I usually break them loose with a 3/4 drive or you can use a 1/2 inch drive with a cheater pipe!!! You will need to retorque to 200 ft. Lbs.

 

[crazy jerry]

couple things. a little mickey mouse 3/8 drive ratchet wont get the bolts loose. long 1/2 or 3/4 drive breaker bar is what you need. or milwaukee fuel impact. the natural position for those bushings is on a flat surface at normal ride height, thats the position you want to be in so nothing is binding up. i wouldnt jack up anything. loosen top bolt, loosen bottom bolt, you could even loosen rear arm/frame bolt. turn lower cam bolt where you want it and tighten bolt. tighten top bolt. tighten rear arm bolt if it was loosened. torq all bolts back to spec

 

[22hemi13]

couple things. a little mickey mouse 3/8 drive ratchet wont get the bolts loose. long 1/2 or 3/4 drive breaker bar is what you need. or milwaukee fuel impact. the natural position for those bushings is on a flat surface at normal ride height, thats the position you want to be in so nothing is binding up. i wouldnt jack up anything. loosen top bolt, loosen bottom bolt, you could even loosen rear arm/frame bolt. turn lower cam bolt where you want it and tighten bolt. tighten top bolt. tighten rear arm bolt if it was loosened. torq all bolts back to spec

Yep. That’s it right there. I suggest pooping first if you’re not using an impact. Less chance of filling your pants lolololol

 

[MOTOBH]

*UPDATE *
Got it to work. But check this out. With passenger front tire removed. Removed bottom shock bolt as shock was in way, moved over to access top bolt on control arm. Top bolt would not loosen. We used a 1/2 inch Fuel Milwaukee impact wrench. It could not loosen top bolt. Yep, you read that correct. Wow.
So, we moved to the lower cam bolt. Had the truck jacked up and had jack stands under passenger and drivers side frame. Floor jack under the axle more on the passenger side.
We loosened the cam bolt with a 1 foot box end wrench with 2 foot cheater pipe. (Pic). Had to lower the floor jack on axle somewhat because the cam nut would spring back. By lowering, it would not spring back as much, or rotate back into old position. Rotated cam more toward back of truck to equal drivers side. Tightened it up.
Truck is not leaning to passenger side anymore, measurement are equal now. ..and does not pull to right.
FIXED!
Thanks for everyone's help!!
Brian

Top nut would not loosen using impact wrench.

Setup to lossen bottom cam bolt.

Setup to lossen cam/jam bolt

 

[royta]

I couldn't break the top bolt loose even with a 1/2" breaker bar and a cheater pipe. I'm bringing my truck to a friend's shop to put the truck on the lift to get a better angle on it. I'm planning on lifting from the frame and letting the axles hang. My question is this: Once I have all four loose and then I adjust the cam bolt, should I tighten up the cam nut and then drive around the block with the top bolts loose so that everything settles, and then tighten the tops? Another question: Should I adjust the cams while the truck is resting on the tires, or will I be okay with the axle hanging?

I'm at zero toe in and my truck pulls to the right. Stock suspension. 2015 2500 4WD Laramie MC w/ 6.7 CTD.

Driver's side.


Passenger side.


Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

 

[crazy jerry]

both arrows are very close to the same so why you trying to change it ? i wouldnt mess with it just yet. does it pull on flat roads ? have tires been rotated regularly ? air pressures all the same ? i cant imagine any joints are worn unless its been offroaded hard . some alignment shops will put it on the rack and give free printout. thats what i would do first and go from there. if caster is the same on both sides then i dont think adding more will help