New Differential Install - Failure

[blain1976]

Hey everyone,

I just did a new differential install (same 3.92 as original).

I bought the Spicer carrier and Motive Gears along with the Timken bearings.

I changed out the crush sleeve for solid spacer (crush sleeve eliminator kit)

Everything seemed to go great. I spent almost a week on the install working on it in the evenings after work as well as last Good Friday, Easter Sunday and Monday after Easter.

I made Setup bearings and got a nice Gear mark pattern after adjusting the shims behind the inner pinion bearing.

I then moved to the solid spacers and adjusted it to where I got 20 in/lbs of torque on the nut.

On my final install I had .007 backlash, 25 in/lbs on the pinion nut, 210 ft/lbs torque on the pinion nut (a new pinion nut from the set up). Red locktite on the Pinion nut.

Torqued the Carrier bearing caps to 75 ft/lbs with blue locktite

about 125 ft/lbs on the adjusters.

I loosened the carrier bearing caps every time I made an adjustment to the adjusters and rotated the gears 10 times in each direction.

After everything was put together, I rotated the gears by hand several times to coat everything in oil.

I added the additive for limited slip.

When I first turned out of my driveway, I could hear hear the clutch plates chattering

I took my truck to a parking lot close by that I could do figure 8 patterns and did 10 figure 8s and my truck was quiet after that. Seemed great. Drove smooth and I was one happy camper.

Then when I turned into my neighborhood,.......CLUNK!

My heat dropped. Something came loose it felt like.

I still don't know yet what went wrong. I'll hopefully know more tomorrow when I tear into it. But any thoughts??

Man I hope everything is not messed up, but I have a feeling with these gears it doesn't take much to mess everything up.

I'll post back tomorrow or this weekend once I know a little more.

 

[McBroom]

4x4?


I Love My 2018 RAM 2500HD 4x4 6.4L

 

[blain1976]

Sorry, I should have given my specs.

It is not a 4x4 unfortunately.

I have a 2005 , 1500 2WD 5.7L

Dang, McBroom. If I had that truck I'd love it too. Want to trade? =)

 

[blain1976]

So I opened up the cover tonight and didn't see anything obvious wrong with any of the gears.
There appeared to be a slight bit of the permatex gasket on one gear. Could that have caused a loud clunk along with shaking and more noise?

Or.....I'm also hoping that maybe one of the cheap autozone wheel bearings that I installed may have blown up. Is that possible for a new bearing in its first 3 miles? Haven't removed the wheels yet, but that's my plan for tomorrow.

 

[blain1976]

I should change the title of the post. Turns out the differential install was a success. (Thank goodness)

Either it was just its time or I bumped it or something, but the Left Parking brake came apart and the adjuster for the brake tension is what fell down and was making a clunking noise and the truck was vibrating horribly.

Got it replaced today for $20 in parts and went for a test drive in my truck again and all was well.

 

[kad]

I should change the title of the post. Turns out the differential install was a success. (Thank goodness)

Either it was just its time or I bumped it or something, but the Left Parking brake came apart and the adjuster for the brake tension is what fell down and was making a clunking noise and the truck was vibrating horribly.

Got it replaced today for $20 in parts and went for a test drive in my truck again and all was well.

Glad to hear it was something simple and not the diff!

-K

 

[Ian_Olivas]

Hey everyone,

I just did a new differential install (same 3.92 as original).

I bought the Spicer carrier and Motive Gears along with the Timken bearings.

I changed out the crush sleeve for solid spacer (crush sleeve eliminator kit)

Everything seemed to go great. I spent almost a week on the install working on it in the evenings after work as well as last Good Friday, Easter Sunday and Monday after Easter.

I made Setup bearings and got a nice Gear mark pattern after adjusting the shims behind the inner pinion bearing.

I then moved to the solid spacers and adjusted it to where I got 20 in/lbs of torque on the nut.

On my final install I had .007 backlash, 25 in/lbs on the pinion nut, 210 ft/lbs torque on the pinion nut (a new pinion nut from the set up). Red locktite on the Pinion nut.

Torqued the Carrier bearing caps to 75 ft/lbs with blue locktite

about 125 ft/lbs on the adjusters.

I loosened the carrier bearing caps every time I made an adjustment to the adjusters and rotated the gears 10 times in each direction.

After everything was put together, I rotated the gears by hand several times to coat everything in oil.

I added the additive for limited slip.

When I first turned out of my driveway, I could hear hear the clutch plates chattering

I took my truck to a parking lot close by that I could do figure 8 patterns and did 10 figure 8s and my truck was quiet after that. Seemed great. Drove smooth and I was one happy camper.

Then when I turned into my neighborhood,.......CLUNK!

My heat dropped. Something came loose it felt like.

I still don't know yet what went wrong. I'll hopefully know more tomorrow when I tear into it. But any thoughts??

Man I hope everything is not messed up, but I have a feeling with these gears it doesn't take much to mess everything up.

I'll post back tomorrow or this weekend once I know a little more.

Can you explain to me how you get 20in lbs of preload on the pinion nut and still torque the pinion nut to 210ft lbs. I understand that it's 20 rolling inch lbs, as in 20in lbs of force needed to rotate the assymbly but will the preload be met when you torque it down to 210ft lbs. Or is there some trick to torque it to get preload to 20in lbs and then another way to torque it to 210ft lbs with out increasing preload torque?

 

[cat199]

Can you explain to me how you get 20in lbs of preload on the pinion nut and still torque the pinion nut to 210ft lbs. I understand that it's 20 rolling inch lbs, as in 20in lbs of force needed to rotate the assymbly but will the preload be met when you torque it down to 210ft lbs. Or is there some trick to torque it to get preload to 20in lbs and then another way to torque it to 210ft lbs with out increasing preload torque?

If you are using the stock set up there is a crush sleeve between the pinion bearings. As you tight the nut and it takes about 300-350ftlb of torque to crush the sleeve. You keep tightening the nut and crushing the sleeve until you get the correct rolling preload. The 210 torque is the torque you torque if you are replacing the pinion seal. This torque allows you to tighten the nut to a torque that is tight but since it us well below the torque that is required to crush the sleeve. so torqueing to 210 will not change your rolling preload. If using the shim style pinion setup you add or remove shims tight the nut until you get the right preload, when you torque this set up you will tight against the shims between the pinion bearing.

 

[Ian_Olivas]

If you are using the stock set up there is a crush sleeve between the pinion bearings. As you tight the nut and it takes about 300-350ftlb of torque to crush the sleeve. You keep tightening the nut and crushing the sleeve until you get the correct rolling preload. The 210 torque is the torque you torque if you are replacing the pinion seal. This torque allows you to tighten the nut to a torque that is tight but since it us well below the torque that is required to crush the sleeve. so torqueing to 210 will not change your rolling preload. If using the shim style pinion setup you add or remove shims tight the nut until you get the right preload, when you torque this set up you will tight against the shims between the pinion bearing.

So when new bearing and a new crush sleeve are installed.l, and rolling torque is achieved the pinion nut should be all goo to go and not messed with anymore correct? And pinion depth should be the same as before cause you are following the same crush depth on the sleeve with the same rolling torque as before?

 

[Ian_Olivas]

but I also see this in the service manual and it says to tighten to 210ft lbs first then 5ft lbs increments till rolling torque is achieved.

 

[cat199]

Yes, I just rebuilt mine. When you torque to 210 you'll have .125 of end play with a new crush sleeve. You keep tightening and by the time you have the end play gone and you have the correct rolling preload the torque is 300-375 ft lbs of torque on the nut. I used a 3/4" ratchet and a cheater pipe. The instructions are not very clear. They also tell you to tighten side bearing caps to 75-100 ft lbs after you get .003 backlash then tight the right side bearing until you get the correct backlash- and when are done you should have 75 ft lb. But if you do that the side bearing races will not slide in the housing even at 75 ft lb. I had to loosen slightly the bearing cap then adjust. After backlash was set- I gave the cap bolts and did a final torque then rechecked backlash.

 

[Ian_Olivas]

Yes, I just rebuilt mine. When you torque to 210 you'll have .125 of end play with a new crush sleeve. You keep tightening and by the time you have the end play gone and you have the correct rolling preload the torque is 300-375 ft lbs of torque on the nut. I used a 3/4" ratchet and a cheater pipe. The instructions are not very clear. They also tell you to tighten side bearing caps to 75-100 ft lbs after you get .003 backlash then tight the right side bearing until you get the correct backlash- and when are done you should have 75 ft lb. But if you do that the side bearing races will not slide in the housing even at 75 ft lb. I had to loosen slightly the bearing cap then adjust. After backlash was set- I gave the cap bolts and did a final torque then rechecked backlash.

Interesting, well thank you for the info. I've been doing research for weeks on everything and the preload was basically the only thing I did not understand well enough. I hope to start rebuilding mine within the next couple of weeks

 

[G8rDuc]

Yes, I just rebuilt mine. When you torque to 210 you'll have .125 of end play with a new crush sleeve. You keep tightening and by the time you have the end play gone and you have the correct rolling preload the torque is 300-375 ft lbs of torque on the nut. I used a 3/4" ratchet and a cheater pipe. The instructions are not very clear. They also tell you to tighten side bearing caps to 75-100 ft lbs after you get .003 backlash then tight the right side bearing until you get the correct backlash- and when are done you should have 75 ft lb. But if you do that the side bearing races will not slide in the housing even at 75 ft lb. I had to loosen slightly the bearing cap then adjust. After backlash was set- I gave the cap bolts and did a final torque then rechecked backlash.

Reviving this from the past, hope you don’t mind. Friend and myself are currently rebuilding my 9.25 on my 2007 4x4 where the pinion nut came off.

Got replacement gears (same ratio, 3.92) and Timken bearings and seal. We don’t have the pinion depth tool to check the proper pinion depth and we can’t believe that you would have to remove the pressed on bearing on the pinion gear each time to change the shim. Is that how you had to do it? Or did you have the dodge tool that allows you to figure out the correct shim needed. My pinion gear that was in the truck had no markings on it in regards to its depth variance.

Thanks so much, hopefully you see this and can reply.


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[Karlsweg]

https://www.yukongear.com/partslist...+&+some+2010&CatID=74&CatName=Set-Up+Bearings

 

[bm02tj]

You can take your old bearing and hone center so it slips on and off easy for set up

 

[Redtruck-VA]

Only thing I can add is whenever the pinion bearing is changed do the preliminary torque on the pinion nut and then using a large drift punch and hammer and give the pinion a couple solid hits to insure the bearing is fully seated.