New owner - oil change question

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GregBiz

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Hello all, I did some searches but didn't find exactly what I'm looking for.
I see a lot of polls on what the best synthetic oil is, but in the owners manual on my 17 5.7 1500 it says conventional oil is fine.
Do we know what the cars are started with originally? Is there a reason to go with one over the other?
Also, I can't find a 'how to' video on how to change your own oil & filter on the 17 5.7 1500.

Thanks in advance

Greg
 

MoparBrent

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If you have the money look into redline oil with a royal purple filter.
Lots of members on here run this combination and it is to help with the common “Hemi tick” and prevent camshaft/lifter failures that you will see lots of posts about on these forums

On the cheaper side of things but still one of the best oils you can use for our 5.7hemi is penzoil ultra platinum(PUP).

As for oil changes just look up 4th gen ram oil change. Any year from 2009-2018 will be the same. But a trick for removing the filter is put a plastic ziplock bag over it to prevent/limit the mess as the filter isn’t in the nicest of places
 

Burla

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FCA is in bed with Pennzoil, using Pennzoil synthetics are a great strategy. DYI, is really easy with rhino ramps. One tip as you loosen the filter cover it will a gallon bag, catch all the oil. When you put the filter back put oil on threads and rubber ring, makes it easier to get off next time. In fact, first you might want to see if you can hand loosen filter before dyi. First one is the worst, they always put them on too tight. Fairly cut and dry after that, loosen oil bolt and drain, put bolt back, and fill 6 quarts, check level and keep filling until it is on full position on dip stick. Do you have expended warranty? You didn't get any free oil changes?

Read the filter thread in my sig.
 
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GregBiz

GregBiz

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FCA is in bed with Pennzoil, using Pennzoil synthetics are a great strategy. DYI, is really easy with rhino ramps. One tip as you loosen the filter cover it will a gallon bag, catch all the oil. When you put the filter back put oil on threads and rubber ring, makes it easier to get off next time. In fact, first you might want to see if you can hand loosen filter before dyi. First one is the worst, they always put them on too tight. Fairly cut and dry after that, loosen oil bolt and drain, put bolt back, and fill 8 quarts, check level and keep filling until it is on full position on dip stick. Do you have expended warranty? You didn't get any free oil changes?

Read the filter thread in my sig.


Wow, very informative thank you. I do have an extended warranty, but wasn't able to negotiate free oil changes. I did get a sticker price I was happy with though.
8 quarts? I'm seeing 7 in the manual, what am I looking at incorrectly here

Thanks
 

MoparBrent

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Wow, very informative thank you. I do have an extended warranty, but wasn't able to negotiate free oil changes. I did get a sticker price I was happy with though.
8 quarts? I'm seeing 7 in the manual, what am I looking at incorrectly here

Thanks

7 quarts is the correct amount. Do not put in 8
 

HammerHead

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Hello all, I did some searches but didn't find exactly what I'm looking for.
I see a lot of polls on what the best synthetic oil is, but in the owners manual on my 17 5.7 1500 it says conventional oil is fine.
Do we know what the cars are started with originally? Is there a reason to go with one over the other?
Also, I can't find a 'how to' video on how to change your own oil & filter on the 17 5.7 1500.

Thanks in advance

Greg
Welcome to the forum, glad to see you wanting to change your own oil. Nothing more satisfying than taking some time to do the job right and use the Best oil and Filter combo.
A Few things you need to be aware of is the Hemi Tick and the dreaded cam and lifter failures we have seen over the years. A solid oil strategy is important to minimize these issues.
First thing to consider is looking for an oil with Moly; some oils have a lot, some oils have some to none. This is an important oil additive most of us look for in our oil selection.
Second would be a quality synthetic oil filter, royal purple oil filters are top of the line.
As for the specific oils, that would depend on how much you want to invest in your new truck.

Top of the line oils:
Pennzoil "Ultra" Platinum (PUP), Redline and Amsoil. Any of those 3 will serve you the best in my opinion.

Off the selves at the parts store:
Quaker State Ultimate Durability.
Pennzoil High Mileage Conventional.
If I was limited financially or had limited access to oil I would run either with confidence.

Synthetic oils are superior to conventional oils in many ways, to many to try and list. But, there is a time conventional oils are better; all my High mileage vehicles did Much better with conventional oil. But I didn't switch to conventional oils until I had an issue with oil consumption or leaking seals.
Make a visit over to the Synthetic oil thread and ask some questions, very informative.

No matter what oil you settle on, consider a Blackstone Oil analysis. You take a sample and send it to the Blackstone Laboratories for Analysis. Costs $28 bucks and they will tell you how your oil is Performing. I've included one for you to see.

The oil life monitor on your truck has no idea want kind of oil you are using. If you use it, I Highly recommend you pick one of the top 3 oils I listed. Running 10k miles on conventional oil and a paper oil filter you are on borrowed time. Me personally, I run PUP for 5k miles, and conventional oils I run for 3k miles.

If you have any questions just ask, we got the best group of guys that know a lot about oil.
How many miles on your 2017 5.7?

IMG_0165.jpg
 
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GregBiz

GregBiz

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Welcome to the forum, glad to see you wanting to change your own oil. Nothing more satisfying than taking some time to do the job right and use the Best oil and Filter combo.
A Few things you need to be aware of is the Hemi Tick and the dreaded cam and lifter failures we have seen over the years. A solid oil strategy is important to minimize these issues.
First thing to consider is looking for an oil with Moly; some oils have a lot, some oils have some to none. This is an important oil additive most of us look for in our oil selection.
Second would be a quality synthetic oil filter, royal purple oil filters are top of the line.
As for the specific oils, that would depend on how much you want to invest in your new truck.

Top of the line oils:
Pennzoil "Ultra" Platinum (PUP), Redline and Amsoil. Any of those 3 will serve you the best in my opinion.

Off the selves at the parts store:
Quaker State Ultimate Durability.
Pennzoil High Mileage Conventional.
If I was limited financially or had limited access to oil I would run either with confidence.

Synthetic oils are superior to conventional oils in many ways, to many to try and list. But, there is a time conventional oils are better; all my High mileage vehicles did Much better with conventional oil. But I didn't switch to conventional oils until I had an issue with oil consumption or leaking seals.
Make a visit over to the Synthetic oil thread and ask some questions, very informative.

No matter what oil you settle on, consider a Blackstone Oil analysis. You take a sample and send it to the Blackstone Laboratories for Analysis. Costs $28 bucks and they will tell you how your oil is Performing. I've included one for you to see.

The oil life monitor on your truck has no idea want kind of oil you are using. If you use it, I Highly recommend you pick one of the top 3 oils I listed. Running 10k miles on conventional oil and a paper oil filter you are on borrowed time. Me personally, I run PUP for 5k miles, and conventional oils I run for 3k miles.

If you have any questions just ask, we got the best group of guys that know a lot about oil.
How many miles on your 2017 5.7?

View attachment 151853
Wow a lot to digest. I'll answer the easy one first and go back and re-read the rest.
7,000 miles

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Burla

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If you have an extended warranty I'd get an oil that meet hemi spec and keep a record, never give them a reason to deny you warranty work. Stick to what the owners manual says for interval, I believe you aren't supposed to go over 6 mos? Biggest surprise is m1 doesn't meet the spec, stick to Pennzoil imo. Once you are out of warranty, then get something a little better.
 

HammerHead

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Wow a lot to digest. I'll answer the easy one first and go back and re-read the rest.
7,000 miles

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7k miles on a 2017? Well done, that's awesome. There is a possibility that the oil has never been charged, in that case I would invest in a oil filter strap wrench. You may need it to get the factory filter off; either way it's always a good idea to crack the oil filter loose before pulling the drain plug on the oil pan. Don't take the oil filter off but just crack it loose. You'll need a 1/2 inch ratchet also. Don't worry it's easy, once the factory oil filter is off the are cake.

If you have an extended warranty I'd get an oil that meet hemi spec and keep a record, never give them a reason to deny you warranty work. Stick to what the owners manual says for interval, I believe you aren't supposed to go over 6 mos? Biggest surprise is m1 doesn't meet the spec, stick to Pennzoil imo. Once you are out of warranty, then get something a little better.

^^^^^This^^^^^

If your under warranty then your oil selection just got simpler. Consider the Pennzoil Ultra Platinum (PUP), don't confuse PUP with Pennzoil Platinum (PP). They are two different oils. PUP is pennzoil's top tier oil. Good news for you is that it is a Fantastic oil.
There are other good oils that meet the spec but I think the PUP will serve your engine very well.
 
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GregBiz

GregBiz

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Alright so full synthetic it is, probably the pup. Now I have to digest that filter thread a bit to decide which filter.

Is there a how to video you can direct me to for the step by step oil change procedure so that I can find everything easier?

Thanks!

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MoparBrent

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Alright so full synthetic it is, probably the pup. Now I have to digest that filter thread a bit to decide which filter.

Is there a how to video you can direct me to for the step by step oil change procedure so that I can find everything easier?

Thanks!

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Go with a royal purple filter. It is the best full synthetic oil filter you can get for our trucks
Part number: 10-48
 

corneileous

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Alright so full synthetic it is, probably the pup. Now I have to digest that filter thread a bit to decide which filter.

Is there a how to video you can direct me to for the step by step oil change procedure so that I can find everything easier?

Thanks!

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I’m sure a quick search on YouTube will get you a tutorial video but these oil changes really aren’t all that hard. A good set of ramps to drive the front of the truck on works well, it’s either a 15mm or 13mm socket for the drain plug, and all I do for dealing with the lousy oil filter location is I have a Tupperware bowl that is about 12 inches long, by 8 or so inches wide that I’ve trimmed down to only be about an inch tall to set on top of the front axle to catch the oil that comes out once that gasket leaves the mounting surface. Works great, usually don’t even end up with any oil to clean up after pulling the old filter off. I usually pour about a half a quart of oil in the new filter before I spin it on there just to prime the system. Fill it with 7 quarts and that’s it.

*Edited to add*
I’ve been using a Wix XP oil filter but even though I don’t doubt that Royal Purple filter that so many people recommend, Ive never used one so I can’t vouch. I thought about trying one but because I have the lifetime MaxCare warranty, I’m probly just gonna play it safe and switch back to the Mopar 4892339AA filter.


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HammerHead

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Alright so full synthetic it is, probably the pup. Now I have to digest that filter thread a bit to decide which filter.

Is there a how to video you can direct me to for the step by step oil change procedure so that I can find everything easier?

Thanks!

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There are multiple videos on YouTube, some are ok some suck, but it will give you the basics. Hardest part is the oil filter, just wear some old clothes and crawl under the truck. You can get a good angle on it.

1) truck on flat ground With parking break engaged.
2) cold or warm engine, Not hot.
3) be sure you got 7 quarts oil, oil filter, 13mm wrench or socket, rubber glove, paper towels, funnel, oil drain pan (preferably a enclosed oil pan) and you "might" need an oil filter wrench or strap. I prefer the oil filter strap because it's good in tight spaces.
4) open hood and loosen the oil filler cap, it's on the top driver side of the engine, it says "SAE 5w20" right on top of the cap itself. Can't miss it; just loosen it at this point.
5) loosen the oil filter, it's on the front passenger side of the engine. It's a pain, But if you position your body under the truck just right it's not too bad. Remember Clockwise is tightening and counterclockwise is loosening. Turn the oil filter counter clockwise and loosen it, don't remove it yet, just crack it lose.
6)position your oil drain pan under the drain plug on the oil pan and remove the 13 mm drain plug. Be ready for the oil to be coming out very fast at first. It wouldn't hurt to have a piece of cardboard under there. After all the oil has drained out put the drain plug back in and snugg it up.
7) now go back and remove the oil filter completely. Some oil will come out so have your oil drain pan ready to catch the oil. Clean off the oil filter housing and be sure the old gasket from the old oil filter is not stuck on the housing. IMPORTANT- put a few dabs of clean oil on the gasket of the new oil filter. Basically just dip your finger in one of your new oil quarts and then rub your finger around the gasket of your new oil filter. This will ensure proper seating of the new oil filter. Now put it on and crank it down Hand tight.
8) now completely remove the oil fill cap the says SAE 5w20 and put your funnel in the hole and pour in 7 quarts. Be sure to shake every new quart of oil before dumping the oil in the funnel just in case the additives have settled at the bottom. Replace the fill cap.
9) start the truck and let it idle, look under the truck and look for leaks. Do not crawl under truck for any reason while it's running.
10) wait 20 minutes and check the dip stick for proper oil level.
11) I alway look for any sign of leaks over the next few days, spots on the driveway or parking lot.

This may seem like a lot but it isn't, I just included as much detail as possible. Once you do it 1 time your golden. :)
 
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GregBiz

GregBiz

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There are multiple videos on YouTube, some are ok some suck, but it will give you the basics. Hardest part is the oil filter, just wear some old clothes and crawl under the truck. You can get a good angle on it.

1) truck on flat ground With parking break engaged.
2) cold or warm engine, Not hot.
3) be sure you got 7 quarts oil, oil filter, 13mm wrench or socket, rubber glove, paper towels, funnel, oil drain pan (preferably a enclosed oil pan) and you "might" need an oil filter wrench or strap. I prefer the oil filter strap because it's good in tight spaces.
4) open hood and loosen the oil filler cap, it's on the top driver side of the engine, it says "SAE 5w20" right on top of the cap itself. Can't miss it; just loosen it at this point.
5) loosen the oil filter, it's on the front passenger side of the engine. It's a pain, But if you position your body under the truck just right it's not too bad. Remember Clockwise is tightening and counterclockwise is loosening. Turn the oil filter counter clockwise and loosen it, don't remove it yet, just crack it lose.
6)position your oil drain pan under the drain plug on the oil pan and remove the 13 mm drain plug. Be ready for the oil to be coming out very fast at first. It wouldn't hurt to have a piece of cardboard under there. After all the oil has drained out put the drain plug back in and snugg it up.
7) now go back and remove the oil filter completely. Some oil will come out so have your oil drain pan ready to catch the oil. Clean off the oil filter housing and be sure the old gasket from the old oil filter is not stuck on the housing. IMPORTANT- put a few dabs of clean oil on the gasket of the new oil filter. Basically just dip your finger in one of your new oil quarts and then rub your finger around the gasket of your new oil filter. This will ensure proper seating of the new oil filter. Now put it on and crank it down Hand tight.
8) now completely remove the oil fill cap the says SAE 5w20 and put your funnel in the hole and pour in 7 quarts. Be sure to shake every new quart of oil before dumping the oil in the funnel just in case the additives have settled at the bottom. Replace the fill cap.
9) start the truck and let it idle, look under the truck and look for leaks. Do not crawl under truck for any reason while it's running.
10) wait 20 minutes and check the dip stick for proper oil level.
11) I alway look for any sign of leaks over the next few days, spots on the driveway or parking lot.

This may seem like a lot but it isn't, I just included as much detail as possible. Once you do it 1 time your golden. :)
Thanks so much!!

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boblonben

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Thanks so much!!

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Mobil 1 syn 5W-20 Extended Performance with Mobil 1 filter or Mopar filter. Best combination you can get, bar none.
 

corneileous

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Mobil 1 syn 5W-20 Extended Performance with Mobil 1 filter or Mopar filter. Best combination you can get, bar none.

If it wasn’t for the lack of certification from Chrysler, I’d probly still be using that.

But I read somewhere that said Mobil 1 filters were like the bottom of the barrel in quality.


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