New to hemi engines and gas engine "performance" - shorty headers

[healthyrx]

It sounds like I am starting to get the hemi tick so I think I will be ordering some headers here soon to rectify the problem. I am new to gas engine performance requirements.
With the headers I am not really interested in getting much performance out of them, I just want to replace the manifolds with a solution that wont warp again and I can't afford the downtime to get the stock manifolds planed down.
Just got a few quick questions.
1- with something like the JBA shorty headers, if I leave the rest of the exhaust stock do I need a tuner or can I get by without one?
2- I've seen that it can be challenging to replace the headers, will my 1" body lift make that job any easier or is it the same difficulty?
Thanks

 

[Burla]

Did you isolate the issue as exhaust and not lifters? You find broken bolts? It's no fun as a dyi if you will get under the truck. Exhaust is the one thing I pay someone to do, for what it's worth.

 

[bigred90gt]

I installed JBA shorty headers on my truck with no tuner. No issues at all.

I can’t help with your second question but to say they are a pain in the ass to install. The tube routing basically blocks access to a good chunk of the bolts, so you can pretty much forget trying to actually torque most of them with a torque wrench. Just be patient and ready to cuss a bunch.

 

[healthyrx]

Did you isolate the issue as exhaust and not lifters? You find broken bolts? It's no fun as a dyi if you will get under the truck. Exhaust is the one thing I pay someone to do, for what it's worth.

Not sure how to do that. I just heard a tick briefly the past few mornings when it has been cool out when I started my truck before leaving for work. Seems to go away within a minute or so of starting.
Haven't had time to dig into anything yet. But I am not opposed to replacing the manifolds with headers even if the bolts aren't broken yet- more as a preventative maintenance type item.

 

[Sillygoose]

The tube routing basically blocks access to a good chunk of the bolts, so you can pretty much forget trying to actually torque most of them with a torque wrench.

This. I did mine when I had the heads off. I couldn't imagine tightening them down in the truck.

 

[Burla]

Not sure how to do that. I just heard a tick briefly the past few mornings when it has been cool out when I started my truck before leaving for work. Seems to go away within a minute or so of starting.
Haven't had time to dig into anything yet. But I am not opposed to replacing the manifolds with headers even if the bolts aren't broken yet- more as a preventative maintenance type item.

you could be right, this is when they tend to fail, cold to warm extremes. But, you can get down there and check all of the exhaust bolts, you might have a heat shield on one side. Usually if it is exhaust one or more of the bolts will be broke. Sadly, cold also brings out lifter tick, when it is cold and dry you can get the same exact condition, as in tick but when oil hits it it smooths out. My theory from being on here a decade, it is about 50/50, half the time it is exhaust and 1/2 the time it is lifters.

 

[healthyrx]

you could be right, this is when they tend to fail, cold to warm extremes. But, you can get down there and check all of the exhaust bolts, you might have a heat shield on one side. Usually if it is exhaust one or more of the bolts will be broke. Sadly, cold also brings out lifter tick, when it is cold and dry you can get the same exact condition, as in tick but when oil hits it it smooths out. My theory from being on here a decade, it is about 50/50, half the time it is exhaust and 1/2 the time it is lifters.

If it makes any difference, here in central florida, cool means it was 62F this morning and my '17 only has 20k miles

 

[Burla]

Regardless of temps it really is a 50/50 shot, get under there and check all the bolts. if by chance you end up with lifter tick, search the forum for lubrication strategies.

 

[EdGs]

When the engine is cold, reach in through the wheel wells and grab the corners of the heat shields over the exhaust manifolds.

If they are loose, you have your answer. Broken manifold studs. A VERY common issue in the hemi.

If your shields are loose, and it only feels like a nut under the corner of the shield, your studs are snapped just under the head of the stud. Easy-peasy to fix.

If you feel the body of the bolt still attached to the corner of the loose shield, then your studs are likely broken off flush with the cylinder head. A bit trickier to remove, but doable by welding a washer and nut on the end of the broken stud.

It only takes about 30 seconds to check, and then you'll know what you're up against.

 

[joesstripclub]

I installed Kooks shorties on my truck last year as a preventative measure. No tuning necessary but you can probably get more out of it with a tune. I think I could have installed them in a full day but broke it up into two half days. I made a thread on here if you want to check it out.

 

[Wulf]

Did you isolate the issue as exhaust and not lifters? You find broken bolts? It's no fun as a dyi if you will get under the truck. Exhaust is the one thing I pay someone to do, for what it's worth.

Oddly enough, before I injured my back this last time in a car accident (years ago now), the exhaust was one of the things I had no problems doing myself. The others being oil changes and brakes, mainly. And didn't matter truck or car. Just got out a set of jack stands, blocks, and tools, and went to work.

 

[Wulf]

When the engine is cold, reach in through the wheel wells and grab the corners of the heat shields over the exhaust manifolds.

If they are loose, you have your answer. Broken manifold studs. A VERY common issue in the hemi.

If your shields are loose, and it only feels like a nut under the corner of the shield, your studs are snapped just under the head of the stud. Easy-peasy to fix.

If you feel the body of the bolt still attached to the corner of the loose shield, then your studs are likely broken off flush with the cylinder head. A bit trickier to remove, but doable by welding a washer and nut on the end of the broken stud.

It only takes about 30 seconds to check, and then you'll know what you're up against.

I saw a car show relatively recently on MotorTrend channel where they had a broken stud removal idea/kit type of thing, basically the same idea as your washer, except I think they just used a nut and welded it to the top of the stud from inside the nut.