New to towing and have no hitch setup

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RamUAllNite

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I apologize in advance for the stupid questions here, but I am not very experienced when it comes to towing or hauling. I purchased a 2017 sport 4wd with the HEMI and 3.21 gears. It did not come with the towing package or hitch installed. Can somebody point me in the right direction on how to get started correctly. I would like to in the near future be able to tow a boat or small trailer with some 4 wheelers on it. Should i go to the dealer to get the towing stuff installed? or should i go with another company that is better? What kind of hitch would I need to go with? I'm not looking to tow anything huge at this point. Thanks in advance for helping an inexperienced person...
 

OC455

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As far as hauling a couple of four wheelers, and depending on the trailer your are using, I don't think you would be needing too much for it. I used my father's utility trailer to haul my Kubota BX2350 with front end loader on it to his house without issues(just shy of 2000lbs). I wasn't driving fast with it. Two four wheelers should be much of an issue if you are planning on using a light weight utility style trailer. If you are talking about an enclosed trailer (larger type/toy hauler) then I think you would need to consider a weight distribution hitch (WDH). Depending on the size of the boat and trailer, then look at the WDH options and trailer brake setup. I think the dealer can do OEM trailer brake installs.
 
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BlkZrx

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Dealer will gouge you on factory hitch. Try an RV dealer and a large U Haul dealer. Compare some prices. You don't need a brake controller yet for what you want to tow..

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VernDiesel

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https://www.etrailer.com/Ball-Mounts/Andersen/AM3405.html

Two ball sizes for the vast majority of trailers, adjustable, to tow your trailer level. Light weight quick change stone simple. Looks good doesn’t rust.

You can buy a cheap heavy steel single ball non adjustable look like an idiot every time you tow something because the trailer is too low or nose high and save a couple bucks at Kmart.

Or pay stupid money for fancy blink blink hitch your choice.
 

OC455

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https://www.etrailer.com/Ball-Mounts/Andersen/AM3405.html

Two ball sizes for the vast majority of trailers, adjustable, to tow your trailer level. Light weight quick change stone simple. Looks good doesn’t rust.

You can buy a cheap heavy steel single ball non adjustable look like an idiot every time you tow something because the trailer is too low or nose high and save a couple bucks at Kmart.

Or pay stupid money for fancy blink blink hitch your choice.

This is the man to listen too....
 

Fitz-0518

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When you say it did not come with a hitch installed?? Do you have the hitch receiver tube welded to the frame?? I suspect that you do have a factory hitch. If not, then start there first. You have choices, Reese, Curt, B&W are all good hitch and tow component companies. Find a "dealer" that will tell you what class hitch you should buy for what you are towing. Other members may give you some advise. Then a WD adjustable hitch with a 2"- 2 1/4" flip over ball would meet all your needs. Most important, thank you for asking. I might be next to you when you are towing.
 

VernDiesel

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Yeah that’s a good point. Some rent a car company’s special order new trucks without a receiver and don’t put a ball on the bumper specifically so the rented truck can’t be used for towing.

If you bought one of these then yes you need to buy a receiver. Check etrailer.com
 
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Thendrix

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Check for a truck accessories place in your area. We have a couple close by and they both do good work a lot cheaper then the dealer. And if you're wondering if you should get a brake controller, yes. Even if your trailer is small enough that it doesn't have brakes, at some point you will need them. It's better to have and not need then to need and not have
 

GsRAM

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https://www.etrailer.com/Ball-Mounts/Andersen/AM3405.html

Two ball sizes for the vast majority of trailers, adjustable, to tow your trailer level. Light weight quick change stone simple. Looks good doesn’t rust.

You can buy a cheap heavy steel single ball non adjustable look like an idiot every time you tow something because the trailer is too low or nose high and save a couple bucks at Kmart.

Or pay stupid money for fancy blink blink hitch your choice.

There's nothing at all wrong with using a non adjustable drop shank if you take good measurements and buy one with the correct drop so the trailer sits level. I dont think that's idioitic at all. I have several I've acquired over the years from different trucks I've owned. The adjustable one you noted is a good choice also but does not have enough drop for my 2500. The steel mounts I buy are in the $30 range on amazon, iirc...here is one on Amazon for $20. To each their own.


https://www.amazon.com/Reese-Towpow...TF8&qid=1528454529&sr=1-4&keywords=Drop+hitch
 

VernDiesel

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Agree if you buy a specific drop for a specific truck n trailer nothing wrong with that. But OP asked about a hitch for a boat and a utility or ATV trailer which may be different heights and or require a different ball size.
 
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Rado

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You can also check with your Local U Haul Rental place. Some sell and install hitch's. Also try your local garage, Some do it as it takes about 1 hr to install the hitch , and if you do not have the wiring sockets in you bumper the can get a Harness connection and plug it in! No cutting required in most cases.
I picked up a Hidden Hitch class 4 ( Overkill for my 1500 ) for $150.00 NEW < My truck pre wired for a 4 socket flat and 7 wire. Added a Curt 5 wire flat so all bases covered :) https://www.ebay.com/p/Trailer-Conn...uring-56584/169450752?iid=400424751057&chn=ps so if you do not have the sockets they make several types of plug and play
alot of hard wire options as well
https://www.etrailer.com/dept-pg-Wiring-sf-Trailer_Connectors.aspx
 

bigred74

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Was actually about to post something like this so if op doesn't mind we will keep it all in one thread. I also have a 17 ram 1500 (6in lift on 37s) and gonna be hauling a 31ft camper my buddy is renting for this summer. I do have tow package with trailer brake, but wondering what hitch to get and if there is anything else I would need. Will be hauling it about 2.5 hours one way
20180607_175259.jpg Screenshot_20180607-093417.png
 

Rado

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Was actually about to post something like this so if op doesn't mind we will keep it all in one thread. I also have a 17 ram 1500 (6in lift on 37s) and gonna be hauling a 31ft camper my buddy is renting for this summer. I do have tow package with trailer brake, but wondering what hitch to get and if there is anything else I would need. Will be hauling it about 2.5 hours one way
View attachment 130413 View attachment 130415
This may help in choosing. I went with a Class 4 on my 1500 SLT because I got a great deal. 150$ heavier duty then my truck can use but overkill will not hurt lol
https://www.etrailer.com/faq-hitchclasses.aspx hope this helps ! You can install the hitch yourself if you have the right tool but I paid my mechanic to do it! worth the 50$ lol
 

bigred74

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This may help in choosing. I went with a Class 4 on my 1500 SLT because I got a great deal. 150$ heavier duty then my truck can use but overkill will not hurt lol
https://www.etrailer.com/faq-hitchclasses.aspx hope this helps ! You can install the hitch yourself if you have the right tool but I paid my mechanic to do it! worth the 50$ lol
I already have the stock receiver hitch from factory. Was asking about the actual hitch to slide into it and if I would need any sway control for a camper that big
 

Rado

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I already have the stock receiver hitch from factory. Was asking about the actual hitch to slide into it and if I would need any sway control for a camper that big
Ooops I miss read it . Someone who tows should chim in, BUT your thread may get lost here so if you get no replies I would start a new thread with your question. sorry I was no help BUT Im a Old Fart so lol
 

BWL

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Just make sure the hitch ball and receiver bar are rated heavy enough for what you're pulling. The cheap standard ones you get from U-haul are usually 2.25"drop 2"ball 7500 lb and that's the most common ball size and works with most non-lifted trucks as a good starting point. All mine came off of my older HD trucks so they're solid bar and heavier rating, but they weigh a lot and cost a lot more and you don't need it unless you have a heavy trailer. Just don't look and see 2"bar with 2"ball and say that'll work because they're not all the same. For me I use 2" ball most common on rental trailers and lighter boat and quad/utility trailer. 2 5/16"ball on bigger boat trailers and larger car haulers/flat bed trailers. A lot of our work trailers are pintle, but I doubt you'll see many of those with what you haul. As far as a hitch on your vehicle if there's a. 2" square. Hole below the rear bumper and a plug with the flip covers to the left of the license plate your truck has all you need to put in a 2" bar and whatever ball,pintle or W.H.Y for pulling. If not then you need a class 3 or 4 hitch installed and/or trailer wiring. As above rv dealers/u-haul or trailer dealers can all install these things for you.
 

Thendrix

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I have a 35 ft camper I pull with my 2500 and a weight distribution hitch. There hitch makes a pretty big difference in stability. Be careful pulling a camper that size with a 1/2 ton. Dry weight on my camper is 8800 so I'm going to guess yours is probably in the 7500 to 8000 range. That's a pretty good load for a 1/2 ton in my book. Not saying you can't just be careful. Getting there a little late is better then not at all. If you're going through an RV dealer they can measure your truck and the camper and get the right drop hitch for your truck
 
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