Nylon Line to replace factory Cable on Power Wagon Winch

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Brakelate

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I did a dumb thing. While un-spooling my factory stock winch line, I went too far. Rather than pulling it out all by hand, I attached it to an anchor and slowly backed up. My intentions were to get a look at how long the cable was for future mental reference in a time of need, while also intending to re-wind the cable after applying some light lubricant and roll it back up under load, allowing the motor to pull it in, thus giving it a good, solid wrap back on the drum.

Problem was, even just idling backwards, the momentum of the truck was enough to tug the winch cable from the pinch mount on the drum. I went back and with much huffing, puffing, cursing, crawling and twisting, I was able to stick it back in the crimped drum mount and after gaining a couple rolls, I could then power the cable all back on, allowing the friction of just those few wraps to keep it on the drum.

I then went and spray painted a few Red stripes on the cable several feet out in front of the truck, so that I would not make that mistake again, by stopping and allowing a few wraps to remain on the drum. It would cost me a few feet in recovery line length, but that was a small price to pay for the confidence of a tight, functioning winch line.

That lasted a couple of months.

Yesterday while teaching my son how to use all of the truck's fancy features and it's winch to "simulate" a recovery, I again pulled a bone head and despite having a few feet, thus at least five full wraps on the drum, the silly thing popped back off again.

I fought and fought for hours, *(If you haven't ever wrestled with a heavy duty multi-strand steel cable, you are in for a treat!) Let alone, up in the limited space of the hidden winch, under the hot engine bay. I am amazed that they use such a weak crimp style fastener to attach the end of the line to the drum.

So, I come to the conclusion that I should step up and purchase one of those new fancy Nylon Recovery Lines. There are many benefits; Lighter, more flexible, and they claim that it will both float on water and also shed all of it's energy, should something fail and just fall limp to the ground, rather than snapping back as does a Steel Cable. The Nylon also does not fray, or if it does, it does not have the nasy assed barbs sticking out like a Metal Cable, thus requiring you to use heavy duty gloves whenever handling it.

At the same time, I can get one in one of the optional fancy colors, and due to it's smaller diameter, I can get a longer line, than the steel one, all in the same amount of space.

Great! I just need to accept technology and trust that it is rated to hold more than the steel line and is just as strong and durable, despite being so light and flexible.

One problem I can see, is that they warn against drawing a line under load across rocks or other sharp objects, like over a cliff, or tree or boulder that is an obstacle in the way of the pull. Most quality line suppliers provide a length of "wrap" or "blanket" to set down so that the line glides nicely across or over it, eliminating damage to either the strap, the tree or whatever.

The MAIN issue, is that while doing research, despite having a higher load capacity, these Nylon lines are suggested to be used with a "Hawes" type Aluminum Fairlead, as opposed to the standard metal roller wheel type.
Why? I am not so sure. You would think a Nylon line would roll across the rollers just fine. But, better safe than sorry, as these lines, and a potential failure at some point is a much larger cost than just a Hawes type fairlead.

So, that leads me to a couple questions (finally);

Anyone use one of these Nylon lines? What has your experience been like?
Did you use a Hawes slit fairlead, or just go with the stock Roller set?

Finally, if you did use a Hawes Fairlead on a Power Wagon, how did you mount it? There is little room to mount the Aluminum Block in front of the drum, but behind the factory rollers. AND, there is no apparent way to remove the roller assembly, as it looks to be used as also the framework for mounting the winch to the front of the truck's frame, all hidden in behind the front bumper.

I might be able to fit a Hawes fairlead, using the top two bolts securing the standard rollers to the mounting bracket, but it would be tight.

Should I just run both, or just spool up a new Nylon line and forget about it, just being sure to monitor the nylon line and how it is spooling and holding up to running across the rollers?

*Long story short; Anyone use a Nylon Winch line on a Power Wagon yet?
 

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emjohn4

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I'm just here to listen to everyone say "plastic" ropes suck.

:)
 

oz97tj

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Rope is the way to go. Get rid of the cable and never look back.

First, rope will fray. It doesnt like friction and will tear very quickly from the abrasion. If you are careless thrn keep your cable. Thats about the only real downfall to rope. It also doesnt like lots of heat but short of powering out a bunch (the internal brake causes heat doing this) then your good.

Hawse fairlead is less likely too snag the rope on anything. Thats the main benefit. There is only smooth edges foe the ropw to rub against. They mount the same way a roller fairlead mounts so that shouldnt be an issue.

If you do switch, sand the drum of your winch down so there are no burrs anywhere. The cable does leave burrs. Also, dont use the metal crimp. Its nothing more than a sharp object to cut your rope and as youve found it doesnt hold anyway if it gets that far out. What most guys do is use plain old duct tape or any tape available to hold the end of the rope on the drum across the length then wrap 5 or 6 wraps over that sideways taped part. Those wraps are whats holding it on. Never pull it out further than that.

Lastly, there are sleeves that you can run on your rope that can be slid up or down the rope in the situation where you cant avoid abrasion. The sleeve will be placed against the rock or tree or whatever and the rope slides though unharmed.

Just for kicks, you are also using tree savers and shackles and such too right?
 

Ocelot

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Dyneema winch rope is freaking awesome. I use it on my ATV winch and it outlasts the steer cable on the plow at least ten to one. It isn't cheep but it's also has significantly stronger breaking strength than steel.

Check this video out just as an example.
Dyneema rope VS steel rope - strength test - break test - YouTube

[yt]GDJ3QjvRZT0[/yt]
 
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NYCruiser

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Don't use nylon. The "plastic" looking line that is made for winch use is actually Kevlar or other syntetics. Huge difference. For one thing, it doesn't stretch. Therefore, it doesn't store energy. Nylon and similar material is very stretchy. The point being if it snaps or comes lose from the anchor point, it won't fling the hook through your windshield. If you cut it while under load, it will just drop on the ground. I had Kevlar on the winch on my Rubicon that I traded for my Ram. Loved it. Very light and easy to handle. Read up on maintenance of it. I had a winch that was outside on my front bumper, so I kept a cover on it to protect the line from UV. Kevlar or other synthetic is the way to go. You can even handle it without gloves.

Good comparison info here:
https://jeepswag.com/winchrope/index.html

http://youtu.be/gnM-hT3vr-c
 
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Brakelate

Brakelate

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I am sorry, I was using "simple language" when calling it nylon or rope.

Anything I get is obviously going to be the good ****; some heavy duty super secret Kevlar and God knows what else in the winding. Not some ****** mail order $5 tow strap sorta thing.

But, I appreciate the replies! Now how about the Hawse Fairlead vs Rollers component to all of this? Is it overkill, or Life Saving Mandatory type of thing, or somewhere in between depending on personal preference.


This obviously won't see daily use, as on a commercial tow rig or anything, but I don't want it to fray in two uses either if you know what I mean.
 

Ocelot

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One nice thing about the good winch ropes like the Dyneema is that it is pretty abrasion resistant. I wouldn't want to stretch it over sharp rock under load, but the stuff is slippery. Almost like it's waxed or something.

I'm not real knowledgeable about the fairleads, but I can say that when I was looking to buy the Dyneema, most all of the sellers said I had to use the Hawse Fairlead with the synthetic rope.

Ray
 

oz97tj

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Go hawse. They are far simpler and lighter. As I stated earlier, there are too many ways for rope to snag not to mention the fairlead could also have burrs on it from being used with cable. They do make plastic rollers to replace the used metal ones but for the cost you can pick up a hawse fairlead.
 

lhinma

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I just purchased a 2018. I also test drove the 2019. The new winch/bumper set up was the only thing I liked better on the '19 (and the new transmission). I'm not sure how you would fit a hawse fair lead on the 2018. I'm going to do some more research, but will probably be going with the AEV bumper and their OEM winch mount kit. And, do the line and fair lead swap then. Following to see if you come up with a solution.
 

Maligator

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I just purchased a 2018. I also test drove the 2019. The new winch/bumper set up was the only thing I liked better on the '19 (and the new transmission). I'm not sure how you would fit a hawse fair lead on the 2018. I'm going to do some more research, but will probably be going with the AEV bumper and their OEM winch mount kit. And, do the line and fair lead swap then. Following to see if you come up with a solution.
Here's how one gentleman did a hawse fairlead

http://forum.powerwagonregistry.org/viewtopic.php?t=5157

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk
 

Ron LaJeunesse

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To convert to synthetic rope you need to remove the rollers, using the horizontal roller holes for bolts in a block of aluminum or steel, the blocks L&R measure (4"H x 2"W x 1-1/2"D) The bolt holes are 2.250 on center vertically. I bolted the blocks on and laid out the fairlead holes with some dykem and a transfer punch.upload_2021-4-16_13-27-55.png
I replaced the steel rope which I used quite a bit and collected a few scratches from, with a 9/16" x 76 foot synthetic by All-Top. Use stainless steel bolts and washers and that's all there is to it. Traded my 2010 PowerWagon, for a 2018 and it's the same set up... hope this helps.
 
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