OEM Power Windows and Locks- The Almost Complete How-to

Fishstickz

Senior Member
Joined
Jul 20, 2017
Posts
607
Reaction score
341
Location
Oklahoma
Ram Year
2006
Engine
3.7
I promise I'll add pictures here pretty soon! Also I should note that power locks are not currently working, I'll update the thread when I get them functional.

To start this off; No, this is probably not worth your time. Unless you have deep connections to your truck (or really enjoy not having a hefty truck payment) you'd be better off buying a new truck. If you DO decide to go through with this, watch youtube videos. There's numerous videos explaining how to replace some of these things, and they'll help out a whole lot.

I TAKE NO RESPONSIBILITY for this info messing your truck up. I really hope you don't, but don't blame me if you do. Go into this with a little common sense, research, and patience, and you'll do just fine

Anyways, here's what you're gonna need. I have a 2006 2-door. Part numbers are gonna be different for yours.
  • Dash Wiring Harness- 56051353AD. Any harness that has the sales code [JPB] will work. If you check your dash wiring harness, you may be lucky and already have one that'll work. Ya never know
  • Body Wiring Harness- 56051373AB or better. Best way to check if your harness has all the wires already is to open the front door and pop out the door wiring boot. There's either 1 white connector and 1 black connector or just 1 white connector. If you only see the white one, you'll have to get the new body wiring harness.
  • Headlamp-to-Dash Harness. 56051337AD or better. The part number will change wildly depending on your engine, 2-dr or 4-dr ABS, etc. I personally didn't buy this one.
  • Door Harness- 56051691AA and 56051692AA. You'll also have to get the rear door harnesses for 4 door models.
  • Window Switches and Bezels
  • Door Panels
  • Door Lock Actuators
  • Power window motors
  • Instrument Cluster (Possibly???)
  • PATIENCE AND TIME
Like I said. This is insanely expensive. I did my best to give a step by step down below.
  1. The first thing you'll wanna do is take out a few things to prepare taking out the dash. Radio bezel, A-pillar trim, kick panel trim, and instrument cluster especially. Disconnect the HVAC switch, airbag switch, 4WD switch, power sliding backlite switch, etc. Everything with wires attached needs to be disconnected, except for the radio. It can stay. I also removed the passenger side seat to help slide the dash out a bit easier, but it's probably not required to get it out. Just slide it back as far as it can go. Drop the steering column or remove it. I didn't remove it but it probably would've made things a little easier if I did. Disconnect as many wires as you can see and then some. You'll probably disconnect at least a dozen connectors at this point. The ABS module will either be under the radio or under the center jumpseat. Idk why but just be sure you unplug it.
  2. Now you'll wanna take out the dash entirely. This was my first time removing the dash, but overall wasn't too hard and took me about 3 1/2 hours to have it fully removed. You'll definitely want help taking it out of the truck. Place it face-down on a bunch of towels or something soft so you don't scratch it up. You should be able to see all the HVAC tubes, wire harness, airbag, and other dusty stuff. You'll probably want to clean and freshen up both the back side of the dash and the HVAC box in the truck.
    You must be registered for see images attach
  3. Now you should be able to remove the dash harness. Its held down by a few screws, ground bolts, and connections. You'll also have to remove one piece of the HVAC system, which is only held down by one or two screws. At this point just remove the old wire harness and put the new one in. Any connections you unplugged during this step, be sure to plug them back in now
  4. Now you can move back into the truck to work on the body harness. First, if you didn't remove the steering column, you'll have to put it back up. The mounting bracket is still there, just lift it up and twist the nuts on there a bit to hold it up there. Then you'll have to remove almost everything left in the truck- all B-pillar trim, standard cab storage bin, all seats, speakers, etc. Removing the carpet helps a bunch too.
    You must be registered for see images attach
  5. You'll need to disconnect just about everything now. Connectors in the door boots, speakers, seatbelt tensioners, another ABS wire, etc. Then it'll be held down by a bunch of fir tree zip ties and a couple of screws in the door sills.
    You must be registered for see images attach

    Now you can reinstall the new one in reverse order.
  6. CLEAN EVERYTHING! You'll thank yourself later. After you get done cleaning everything up, check all your connections, then reinstall the carpet, seats, B-pillar trim, speakers, etc.
  7. So now would be a good time to replace the headlamp-to-dash harness. I personally didn't do this, as I just ran the power window feed from the TIPM to the power window wire myself. With that said I really can't guide anyone on how to go about doing it. It was a cheap shortcut solution, but it was around this point I got tired of spending money on wire harnesses lol. I may end up replacing that harness in the future anyways.
  8. So now everything should be all wired up within the cab. You can now reinstall the dash, reconnect all the wires, reinstall the seats, trim panels, etc. I must note to be careful about the brake light indicator module thingy. I accidentally bent mine but luckily I had an extra from my old wire harness.
  9. Reconnect the battery. Pray hard before the next step.
  10. Start er' up and be thankful the son of a gun started. Now you can move onto the important things- the doors.
  11. You'll wanna start by taking the drivers side door panel off and disconnect the connectors in the door wire boot. Just a few screws and a torx bit for the door panel. Once thats off, remove the door handle mechanism and speaker, then peel away the moisture plastic cover..thing
  12. You'll wanna look on the back side of the door and you'll see 4 torx bolts, 3 hold the door actuator in and 1 lower torx holds the rear window track in place. You'll want to loosen the top 3 and remove the bottom one, then move the window track up and out of the way. DEFINITELY don't roll your window down!!
  13. You'll have to reach in there and disconnect the 4 snappy things that hold the door actuator to the different components. Once thats done, take out the 3 torx bolts, pull the actuator out, disconnect the wires, and throw that disgusting sucker away. From this point on DONT try to shut your door!!
  14. Now you'll wanna work on getting the wire harness out. Remove the bottom bolt from the FRONT window track and stash it out of the way. Next remove all of those fir tree ziptie holders, and work the wire harness out of the door.
  15. Get your new wire harness out and get to installing it. For the most part it's the reverse of taking it out, but be sure and connect the new door lock actuator and screw it into position before finishing up.
  16. With the wiring harness installed, you'll wanna put those window tracks back into position and tighten them down. At this point you can plug in the power window switch and it should light up when you turn the key. Play with the window switch a bit and if it works, great! Give yourself a pat on the back. Note that power locks probably won't work for you just yet.
  17. Finally you can work on the window regulators. First, you'll have to roll the window down a bit to get access to the bolts holding the window to the regulator. Loosen these just a tad, then roll it back up. Then you'll wanna tape the window up to the top of the door. Definitely be careful with the door so you don't knock the tape loose (ask me how I know)
  18. Now slide the window regulator to the right a bit, then you can remove it from the window. Loosen the 4 bolts holding the window regulator on, and pull it on out of the door with the big hole in the bottom of the door. (Its difficult I know)
    You must be registered for see images attach
  19. Now you'll slide the new power window regulator in and bolt it into the same place. You can reuse the bolts that came off the old manual crank regulator. These regulators can be very confusing to work with and reinstall properly, so I'd suggest watching some youtube videos of the install.
  20. Once you get them in, you'll wanna turn the key and CAREFULLY roll the window up. Get the window regulator lined up to reinstall the window to the regulator. Tighten the nut, remove the tape, and enjoy your beautiful work.
  21. After you love your work, reinstall everything, and put the new door panel on in place of the old manual door panel. Pop the new switch in and you're good to go!.
  22. Now you'll wanna repeat steps 11-21 on the passenger side, and on your back two doors if you're working with a crew cab (I can't confirm accuracy on the rear panels tho)
  23. After its all set and done, you should have all the fancy fixin's for power windows!
 
Last edited:

Fishstickz

Senior Member
Joined
Jul 20, 2017
Posts
607
Reaction score
341
Location
Oklahoma
Ram Year
2006
Engine
3.7
Now, power locks? I'm not there yet. Its possible my base instrument cluster will need to be replaced with the upgraded version. All the pins are on the back of the cluster, but the circuitry may not all be there. I tried altering the setting in AlfaOBD, but it just returned with an error. The dealership was unable to connect to my truck at all, so it looks like Alfa is gonna be my only hope. I'll update this thread as I go, hoping to get the power locks working.

As for RKE? On the 06-08s, I highly advise against it. For these years, the RKE system is contained within the SKREEM module (Sentry Key), and things could turn real bad real quick if you start messing around with it. I've heard that TIPM's can't be reprogrammed to accept sentry keys if they didn't come with them from the factory, but I have no first-hand knowledge on that. All I know is, if you get caught with sentry key enabled with no active sentry keys or a VIN mismatch, your truck will be inoperable. You'd probably be stuck having to buy a new TIPM, cluster or both. There's the possibility that, paired with alfaobd or (preferably) a wi-tech scantool, that you COULD make sentry key and RKE work, but its a big risk. I’m planning on working with my local dealer to find out some more information on this and see what, if anything, can work

For the 02-05 modules, I don't believe there's any issue. Instead of being combined with the SKREEM module, the RKE module is a separate piece that mounts to the back of the cluster. I don't believe its VIN-specific like the 06-08s
 
Last edited:

Fishstickz

Senior Member
Joined
Jul 20, 2017
Posts
607
Reaction score
341
Location
Oklahoma
Ram Year
2006
Engine
3.7
So an update to this post—I had to swap instrument clusters to get power locks. I got a new cluster out of a wrecked ‘06 quad cab that was equipped with power locks, plugged it in, and the locks worked flawlessly. That truck also came with the anti-theft system and sentry key, but my non-theft non-sentry truck still starts and drives great. The VTA light is stuck on though, not sure why but I’m not too worried.

I’ll have to play with some settings in AlfaOBD to fine-tune the options. Right now it doesn’t automatically lock and unlock based on my gear selection, and only auto-locked once we past 35 MPH. I’m also going try turning on central locking (which I believe unlocks all doors if you turn the key in the door twice) and seeing if I can get that to work. I have to send the cluster out for mileage adjustment and then I’m going to get a custom face made and installed, and while installing that I’m going to fix the RPM needle that is stuck on the wrong side of the needle rest

Especially if you have an ‘06, its important that you get a cluster out of another ‘06. There are a few hidden differences between 2006 clusters and 2007-2008, and I’m not sure if they’re interchangeable. I believe 2007-2008s may be interchangeable, but don’t quote me on that


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

Oliver Closehauf

Senior Member
Joined
Nov 21, 2020
Posts
186
Reaction score
77
Location
Cincinnati
Ram Year
2005 Laramie
Engine
Cummins 5.9
Dude, I want to drink with you. All of that for power locks and windows. Here I thought installing my new audio was a big job. I would have broken down and just bought a new-to-me truck with power windows and locks. I want a new bed, cake compared to what you've done. Salute!
 

Fishstickz

Senior Member
Joined
Jul 20, 2017
Posts
607
Reaction score
341
Location
Oklahoma
Ram Year
2006
Engine
3.7
Dude, I want to drink with you. All of that for power locks and windows. Here I thought installing my new audio was a big job. I would have broken down and just bought a new-to-me truck with power windows and locks. I want a new bed, cake compared to what you've done. Salute!

Trust me any sane person would buy a different truck lonnngg before they did any of this, but unfortunately I’m not sane lol

It was a really fun project for sure. I like my truck and didn’t have the funds to buy a newer rig, so I just decided to go all-in and see if I could make it work. Its been that way for my customized OEM radio, and hopefully soon for a custom instrument cluster, auxiliary switch bank, and heated seats. I guess I enjoy the challenges cuz I never end up doing things the easy way lol


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

Fishstickz

Senior Member
Joined
Jul 20, 2017
Posts
607
Reaction score
341
Location
Oklahoma
Ram Year
2006
Engine
3.7
So I fixed the tach issue by resoldering the two circuit boards on the back and it all works now. Currently my mileage is wrong, but I’m using the trip meter to measure the distance I drive with the new cluster so once I get the mileage changed it will be correct.

Right now, the automatic door locking mechanism is kinda strange (sometimes locks at 15 mph, 30 mph, or not at all) but other than that it works great. When both doors are locked and either door is opened from the inside, both doors automatically unlock. I now believe thats what the “central locking” option in AlfaOBD is for. Its pretty neat feature to have

I know on our Chevy’s the doors unlock/lock depending on gear selection. Does our 3rd gens not do that? Mine does not and I’m just curious how these locks typically operate


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Top