Oil filter: Ram 1500 SLT (3.6L V6)

[MoreCowbell]

I understand that the oil filter for this engine is, for example, Fram TG11665, which is a cartridge.

I'm very old school and much prefer canisters (for example, the Fram PH16 on my old 3.9L V6 Dakota.)

Have any of you out-of-the box Ram heads discovered a canister alternative for this engine ??

Any thoughts are appreciated ...

 

[Tach_tech]

Technically speaking cartridge oil filters are old school, way way back in the day cartridge oil filters were the norm, then canisters came along, now we’ve come full circle.

There is no alternative that I’m aware of. It wouldn’t really serve much benefit, and would be a fair bit of work to redesign the system.

 

[1999 White C5 Coupe]

I understand that the oil filter for this engine is, for example, Fram TG11665, which is a cartridge.

I'm very old school and much prefer canisters (for example, the Fram PH16 on my old 3.9L V6 Dakota.)

Have any of you out-of-the box Ram heads discovered a canister alternative for this engine ??

Any thoughts are appreciated ...

Why do you prefer a canister-style oil filter?

What don’t you like about the cartridge oil filter?

I have found that when removing the cartridge-style filter from an engine during an oil change, that I can allow the filter to drain for a few minutes - then examine it to see if there is any debris (other than microscopic) in the folds.

The cartridge filter eliminates the waste and cost of the metal shell and end cap on the cartridge-style filter.

 

[tidefan1967]

Why do you prefer a canister-style oil filter?

What don’t you like about the cartridge oil filter?

I have found that when removing the cartridge-style filter from an engine during an oil change, that I can allow the filter to drain for a few minutes - then examine it to see if there is any debris (other than microscopic) in the folds.

The cartridge filter eliminates the waste and cost of the metal shell and end cap on the cartridge-style filter.

The question is, "waste" for who? A comparable filter for the 5.7 in my Ram is cheaper. Now granted I've only done one oil change on my wife's JGC but dealing with that plastic cartridge holder was a PITA and much harder to check for leaks and more than likely it's going to break eventually anyway. That "less packing and environmental waste" statement(from FCA, not you) seemed like a bunch of BS to me. Besides I bet if you did a poll on "cartridge filter on top" or "metal canister" underneath it would be 90% for the metal canister. Other than that one small thing I have nothing but praise for the 3.6.

 

[Different Drummer]

The question is, "waste" for who? A comparable filter for the 5.7 in my Ram is cheaper. Now granted I've only done one oil change on my wife's JGC but dealing with that plastic cartridge holder was a PITA and much harder to check for leaks and more than likely it's going to break eventually anyway. That "less packing and environmental waste" statement(from FCA, not you) seemed like a bunch of BS to me. Besides I bet if you did a poll on "cartridge filter on top" or "metal canister" underneath it would be 90% for the metal canister. Other than that one small thing I have nothing but praise for the 3.6.

There is no one more old school than me, believe me. I am absolutely in love with the filter type and location on my Pentastar. I had a similar filter arrangement on a Mercedes diesel and loved it in that application also. Thats after almost six decades of doing oil / filter changes on many different types of vehicles. If I had a choice you would never see me crawling under a vehicle again to change an oil filter.
If you break the canister it is more likely that you tried to tighten the cap "Tractor Tight" not recognizing that it is an O-ring seal. I don't have any issues checking for leaks. I can't speak to the packaging and disposal factors. I remain unopinionated on those matters.
I will be so bold as to say I disagree with the statement that a poll would be slanted 90% toward the screw on cartridge type if it was taken among those who are presently using a under hood canister style filter.
JMO

 

[alpinegreenneon]

I like the canister and the location as well. I use a torque wrench (25 N·m or 18 ft. lbs.) to tighten and really doubt it will ever leak or break. Once I figured out how to pivot the engine cover, no trouble with access. I hate the mess of a metal can filter from underneath. Too many times ended with a ruined shirt because of a sleeve full of oil. A couple more oil changes and you will see it's actually a good thing. My daughter's Durango has a Pentastar and I do her oil changes as well. I'm old, wrenching my own vehicles over 55 years but I can recognize a good thing when I see it.

 

[Different Drummer]

I like the canister and the location as well. I use a torque wrench (25 N·m or 18 ft. lbs.) to tighten and really doubt it will ever leak or break. Once I figured out how to pivot the engine cover, no trouble with access. I hate the mess of a metal can filter from underneath. Too many times ended with a ruined shirt because of a sleeve full of oil. A couple more oil changes and you will see it's actually a good thing. My daughter's Durango has a Pentastar and I do her oil changes as well. I'm old, wrenching my own vehicles over 55 years but I can recognize a good thing when I see it.

One thing I was surprised to find was hearing people talk of removing items or loosening to reposition items on the engine to get access to the filter. I don't touch a thing except the cap on the filter. I just put a socket on a ratchet and remove the cap. When I replace it I use appropriate force for a typical O-ring seal. I will admit that I am over six feet tall and do have long arms.

 

[PoMansRam]

The filter element itself on the pentastar powered Ram 1500 is huge, seems to be very effective and their really isn't a bad brand of them out there that I've seen. Swapping elements is a breeze once you get the feel for it. Nothing needs to be removed or repositioned and you can make the process completely mess free.

The problem is the filter/cooler housing assembly. That's the nightmare and a guaranteed failure point if you don't do your own oil changes. Even then they can fail.

 

[Burla]

I don't prefer cartridge either, my wife's car is on her second cartridge housing and that is rigged not to leak had to glue the top shut, likely we will be getting a third cartridge housing at some point. I like my simply bypass system of my canister. The original "plastic" housing warped and caused a leak under pressure, the replacement aluminum leaked as well because of the design, the valve that allows you to empty the filter, those will break at some point. The butt plate design of canister filters is genius, just take the damn thing off and "recycle" it, lol.

 

[Burla]

Google Oil filter Canister to spin-on conversion in oil filter adapters, perma cool is one brand, mr gasket is another, I think there are several. I will be doing this on the wife's car before hanging yet another canister housing on it.

tans dapt...

derale...

ac delco...


all brands who have this.

 

[Different Drummer]

Google Oil filter Canister to spin-on conversion in oil filter adapters, perma cool is one brand, mr gasket is another, I think there are several. I will be doing this on the wife's car before hanging yet another canister housing on it.

tans dapt...

derale...

ac delco...


all brands who have this.

What is the year of the car? Where did the canister break? Your on your third?
I thought that I read somewhere that the filter / cooler had been updated with a fix.
Being informed in advanced I am careful with mine and so far so good.

 

[Different Drummer]

Duplicate deleted

 

[Burla]

 

[Burla]

What is the year of the car? Where did the canister break? Your on your third?
I thought that I read somewhere that the filter / cooler had been updated with a fix.
Being informed in advanced I am careful with mine and so far so good.

2010 rav 4, we are on our second but I had to glue top shut because it was leaking. First one was plastic, those warp overtime and leak, which is why I went to aluminum, which leaked out of the gate where I said, the valve that allows you to drain the oil out. next time I will convert like video above..

This is exactly how it happened, I had bought the aluminum when the plastic was still good, I bought the set really just to get the tool, but wanted the upgrade, when I put it on it leaked, I went back to plastic but didnt throw out the aluminum one. A few years later the plastic warped and leaked, and I remembered I had aluminum, well I glue it shut so I can no longer release old oil, but it isn't leaking. Canister housing and design is **** imo. How someone thinks those release valves are a good idea for longevity, is beyond me.

You stick this thing in the bottom of the canister a bunch of times to release oil? Trust me the "engineers" could have done better then this if they tried.

 

[Different Drummer]

Burla, yeah that looks like a real rube Goldberg.
The pentastar filter is up top and nothing at all like that. No drain valves etc.
It is interesting that my RAM filter and the Mercedes filter I had on the van are almost identical in size and how they function. I really do like it a lot. I am just careful with screwing the top back on even though it has allegedly been strengthened.

 

[alpinegreenneon]

If the plastic is a weak design, why aren't there dozens of threads reporting it?

 

[Different Drummer]

If the plastic is a weak design, why aren't there dozens of threads reporting it?

I have not had any problems with mine. However, I have seen a couple of comments on the forum about the assembly cracking. I do know there was a revision made on the design though. Perhaps that cured the issues. I have never searched much for information on it and have not lost any sleep over the alleged issue. I only tighten the cap until it seats.

 

[Quyonmob]

One thing I was surprised to find was hearing people talk of removing items or loosening to reposition items on the engine to get access to the filter. I don't touch a thing except the cap on the filter. I just put a socket on a ratchet and remove the cap. When I replace it I use appropriate force for a typical O-ring seal. I will admit that I am over six feet tall and do have long arms.

You wrote exactly what I was thinking.

 

[tidefan1967]

I actually removed the engine cover completely when I serviced it and maybe next time I need to let it drain longer? I only let it drain for 10 minutes maybe. I'll get used to it eventually. Its only a small gripe I'll have to deal with every 5K miles. As far as the housing eventually cracking it was a common problem on earlier Pentastar's, an improved version came out several years ago so maybe the problem was fixed.

 

[dale197338]

Wife had a 2015 200 with 3.6L never had a issue with cap cracking or other issues now she has a Jeep GC with same engine same design and no issues. I like the design wish the 5.7 did the same less mess while changing oil.

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