Oil pan leak at timing cover???

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dmullenex

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Did not leak before cam swap. Sealed it up threw together leaked. Bought new oil pan gasket put a little sealer on it to hold it. Started next day leaked. Replaced oil pan last night started this morning ran for 10mins no leaks, drove 15mins looked under truck sure as he'll leaking again. Why is this happening??? I've never had a oil pan leak like this before
 
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dmullenex

dmullenex

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Yes following the torque spec, also only leaks the front, not the sides or back.
 

Wild one

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Did not leak before cam swap. Sealed it up threw together leaked. Bought new oil pan gasket put a little sealer on it to hold it. Started next day leaked. Replaced oil pan last night started this morning ran for 10mins no leaks, drove 15mins looked under truck sure as he'll leaking again. Why is this happening??? I've never had a oil pan leak like this before
If you installed the pan/gasket and front seal properly,they'll sometimes leak between the crank and harmonic balancer.It's not a very common issue,but if nothing else is obvious,pull the crank bolt and check to see if there's any leaks around it.The fix is usually to remove the balancer,clean up the end of the crank and inside of balancer,and apply a small smear of RTV to the inside of the balancer and reinstall it,don't smear any RTV on the crank,put it on the balancer.
 

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Rick, can it be anything to do with your thread about notching the oil pan the clear the mains bolts?

Or was that thread about using specific hardware? I am probably mistaken about it, a normal thing for me.....lol
 
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dmullenex

dmullenex

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If you installed the pan/gasket and front seal properly,they'll sometimes leak between the crank and harmonic balancer.It's not a very common issue,but if nothing else is obvious,pull the crank bolt and check to see if there's any leaks around it.The fix is usually to remove the balancer,clean up the end of the crank and inside of balancer,and apply a small smear of RTV to the inside of the balancer and reinstall it,don't smear any RTV on the crank,put it on the balancer.
Yeah it's not the balancer it's 100% the oil pan to timing cover I can see it coming out there's some sealant that got blown out and looks like pin holes in it. How tf does that happen
 

Wild one

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Yeah it's not the balancer it's 100% the oil pan to timing cover I can see it coming out there's some sealant that got blown out and looks like pin holes in it. How tf does that happen
Crankcase pressure usually,whens the last time you inspected the pcv system
 
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dmullenex

dmullenex

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Crankcase pressure usually,whens the last time you inspected the pcv system
Literally just replaced the pcv valve. This truck is new to me and I've been fixing problem after problem I haven't even put 400 miles on it yet.... what else should I look at? Should I start truck and see if there's pressure coming out of the hose from the valve?
 

Wild one

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Literally just replaced the pcv valve. This truck is new to me and I've been fixing problem after problem I haven't even put 400 miles on it yet.... what else should I look at? Should I start truck and see if there's pressure coming out of the hose from the valve?
Pull the pcv out and remove the oil fill cap ,and see how much blowby is coming out of the 2 open holes while it's running. Just wondering if it might have a broken ring or 2,letting blowby past the rings.
 
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dmullenex

dmullenex

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Pull the pcv out and remove the oil fill cap ,and see how much blowby is coming out of the 2 open holes while it's running. Just wondering if it might have a broken ring or 2,letting blowby past the rings.
also before i do that i will say, the cam was toast on this motor, i put a stage 2 moes cam in it upg push rods, upg lifters etc, will this make more crankcase pressure then what it was before? because there was no leaks that i could tell before i did the swap. also i changed out the pcv AFTER this leak incase that was it and was hoping the leak would go away. lols, will update shortly on the blowby
 
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dmullenex

dmullenex

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Pull the pcv out and remove the oil fill cap ,and see how much blowby is coming out of the 2 open holes while it's running. Just wondering if it might have a broken ring or 2,letting blowby past the rings.
feel no air pushing out of the oil fill cap hole, good suction on pcv valve, i don't believe the pcv valve is an ALARMING suction to it.
 

Wild one

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feel no air pushing out of the oil fill cap hole, good suction on pcv valve, i don't believe the pcv valve is an ALARMING suction to it.
Then it probably has to be an install error on the pan gasket and timing cover.Did you use OEM parts.
 
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dmullenex

dmullenex

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Then it probably has to be an install error on the pan gasket and timing cover.Did you use OEM parts.
got the gasket from mopar, oil pan from ebay. i will pickup another gasket from advanced auto and try it again... lols are these trucks ok to just use gasket maker or does it have to have the metal/rubber gasket?
 

Wild one

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got the gasket from mopar, oil pan from ebay. i will pickup another gasket from advanced auto and try it again... lols are these trucks ok to just use gasket maker or does it have to have the metal/rubber gasket?
Use a OEM windage tray / gasket. Are you installing the timing cover and balancer first,then the pan and windage tray. Use an oil/gas impermeable RTV in the corners
 
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dmullenex

dmullenex

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Use a OEM windage tray / gasket. Are you installing the timing cover and balancer first,then the pan and windage tray. Use an oil/gas impermeable RTV in the corners
Not removing the balancer or cover when doing the oil pan. But when I did cam I put timing cover back on and then tightened the front oil pan then the harmonic balancer, and ok I'll look for that gasket and rtv
 

aszumilo

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Not removing the balancer or cover when doing the oil pan. But when I did cam I put timing cover back on and then tightened the front oil pan then the harmonic balancer, and ok I'll look for that gasket and rtv
Also. check the setup time for the RTV you use. Some RTV sealants can take 24-48 hours before fully curing. Most RTV recommend it to setup for a certain amount of time before adding fluids. If it is not fully cured, crackcase pressure could be blowing it out. I normally use Permatex Right Stuff (Black). Working time is shorter, but, it cures in about 45-60 minutes.
 
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dmullenex

dmullenex

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Also. check the setup time for the RTV you use. Some RTV sealants can take 24-48 hours before fully curing. Most RTV recommend it to setup for a certain amount of time before adding fluids. If it is not fully cured, crackcase pressure could be blowing it out. I normally use Permatex Right Stuff (Black). Working time is shorter, but, it cures in about 45-60 minutes.
Yeah I was using permatex 90min cure or whatever it's called and tested next day. Maybe my eff up was filling it up same day....
 

Wild one

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Yeah I was using permatex 90min cure or whatever it's called and tested next day. Maybe my eff up was filling it up same day....
That shouldn't affect it,as the oil level is well below the front edges of the timing cover. When you have the pan off,make sure the bottom of the timing cover is flush with the block,and check the holes on the pan itself,and make sure they aren't pulled/dimpled,if the holes are distorted ,use a small ball peen hammer with a backer,and tap them back flat.
 
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dmullenex

dmullenex

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That shouldn't affect it,as the oil level is well below the front edges of the timing cover. When you have the pan off,make sure the bottom of the timing cover is flush with the block,and check the holes on the pan itself,and make sure they aren't pulled/dimpled,if the holes are distorted ,use a small ball peen hammer with a backer,and tap them back flat.
Yeah I did that with the new pan I ordered, front lip was slightly bent, hopefully won't leak next time since it has a new pcv valve I'm hoping it was the old pcv.. Will update once new gasket arrives
 

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