Oil pan replacement.

[stanimal]

Hi everyone. Let have an 04 1500 qc. My oil pan leaks like crazy. I have a new pan and gasket (windage tray). Im hoping that someone can point me to a procedural for r and r. Any help is appreciated. Thanks.

Stan.

 

[xb1230]

Funny I did mine just 2 weeks ago.

It's actually pretty easy, and even more so if you have a 4x4 as you don't need to lift the engine like the service manual says you have to.

Here is a high level guide of what to do:

You will need 21mm, 17mm, 13mm, and 10mm Deep and shallow sockets, Impact drive, Torque drive

Drop the oil from the engine, and pull the Oil stick out about 3 or 4 inches (prevents from sticking it in your eye when you remove the pan as it stick out about that much under the engine)
Start by removing the front cross member (21mm and 17mm on my 4x4).
Remove the Transmission dust pan (2 horizontally screwed bolts from transmission side, then 2 horizontally screwed bolts from the engine side, then 4 vertically screwed similar bolts on each side of the engine)
Now you have access to all of the oil pan bolts (10mm)
The front bolts are a little trickier to access as they are above the rack and pinion and the front K member, but with patience and a smaller socket/ratchet they are easily removed.
Once you have removed all the oil pan bolts it can be pryed off by putting a wide flat screw-driver between the pan lip and the gasket.
Be advised that the gasket and Windage tray are bolted to the block so you can't remove it along with the pan, the pan needs to come off first.
Once you have remove the oil pan, go to the very front of the engine and remove the oil pick-up retaining bolt (10mm). Then, you have 3 bolts retaining the Windage Tray, 2 are together and one sit further up front alone and holds the oil pick-up. Start with the bolt holding the pick up in place, and carefully remove the oil pickup.
Remove the last 2 bolts holding the windage tray/gasket and take the gasket off. You m ay have to work a little to unstick the gasket from the block but just be careful not to mark the surface of block with a sharp tool as this may impair the sealing capabilities of the new gasket.
Clean the engine block surface with a little emery cloth or 3M scuffer to remove any rust or other residue of the old gasket that could have remained on the block.

The installation is the reverse:

Put the Gasket in place, 2 screws holding the Windage tray.
The the oil pickup (The "O" ring that comes with the oil pan gasket is for the Oil Pickup base). If you install the "O" ring and pickup hodling bolt first its a little easier.
Then the pan, the transmission dust cover, crossmember and the install is complete.

Fill up the oil, run the engine a few minutes and once it is warm rev it a little around 2000rpm to make sure the oil gets distributed everywhere.
Check the oil pressure gauge in the cab and then chack un the trauck to make sure there are no leaks from the repair you just performed.

If you have the chance and the tools, I would suggest to tap all the bolts whole and be very carefull putting the bolts back in as they can be stripped easily (trust me ont hat one...).

Hope this helps and sorry I don't have any pick of the procedure.

Good luck.

 

[stanimal]

Wow... Thanks for the reply and the info. Short. Accurate. And to the point. I like it. I've got the dust cover off and all but the front pan screws. And yes its 4x4. I guess I gotta get that cross member off next. Then the front bolts. Thanks you very much.

 

[xb1230]

Anytime. That's what we are all here for.

 

[stanimal]

Ahhh... Nice accommodating place. I like that. I'm wondering if any sealant is required anywhere?

 

[xb1230]

Not as far the Dodge instructions state and I did not put any.

500 miles later still no leaks...

 

[stanimal]

Okay great. Again, thanks for the info.

Stan

 

[stanimal]

Well just incase anyone else reads this I will say this.... Separating the gasket from the block was easy. Separating the gasket from the pan was a brute. I don't know if it was cooked on or glued on but it was not easy to get it off. Took a combo of pry bars,screwdrivers,an olfa knife, a small glazing bar and on the side where the difference pot is in the way, I had to use the steel ruler from a t square and drive it between the pan and gasket with a hammer. I imagine it may be easier in a shop on a hoist, but im doing this on the ground with limited tools and a jack. I wouldnt want to be replacing that gasket and reusing the pan because I'm pretty sure my old one is not even close to the same shape it was before I started. Man, what ever happened to cork gaskets and hi temp silicone. Why is this windage tray in there? At any rate good luck to anyone else who tries this. It can be done but man, it's a bit of a bear in my eyes.

 

[chefred112]

when we do cam swaps or rebuilds, we always use rtv in the back corners as well as the corners of the timing chain cover where it meets the block and pan..

 

[Bmayna2]

Funny I did mine just 2 weeks ago.

It's actually pretty easy, and even more so if you have a 4x4 as you don't need to lift the engine like the service manual says you have to.

Here is a high level guide of what to do:

You will need 21mm, 17mm, 13mm, and 10mm Deep and shallow sockets, Impact drive, Torque drive

Drop the oil from the engine, and pull the Oil stick out about 3 or 4 inches (prevents from sticking it in your eye when you remove the pan as it stick out about that much under the engine)
Start by removing the front cross member (21mm and 17mm on my 4x4).
Remove the Transmission dust pan (2 horizontally screwed bolts from transmission side, then 2 horizontally screwed bolts from the engine side, then 4 vertically screwed similar bolts on each side of the engine)
Now you have access to all of the oil pan bolts (10mm)
The front bolts are a little trickier to access as they are above the rack and pinion and the front K member, but with patience and a smaller socket/ratchet they are easily removed.
Once you have removed all the oil pan bolts it can be pryed off by putting a wide flat screw-driver between the pan lip and the gasket.
Be advised that the gasket and Windage tray are bolted to the block so you can't remove it along with the pan, the pan needs to come off first.
Once you have remove the oil pan, go to the very front of the engine and remove the oil pick-up retaining bolt (10mm). Then, you have 3 bolts retaining the Windage Tray, 2 are together and one sit further up front alone and holds the oil pick-up. Start with the bolt holding the pick up in place, and carefully remove the oil pickup.
Remove the last 2 bolts holding the windage tray/gasket and take the gasket off. You m ay have to work a little to unstick the gasket from the block but just be careful not to mark the surface of block with a sharp tool as this may impair the sealing capabilities of the new gasket.
Clean the engine block surface with a little emery cloth or 3M scuffer to remove any rust or other residue of the old gasket that could have remained on the block.

The installation is the reverse:

Put the Gasket in place, 2 screws holding the Windage tray.
The the oil pickup (The "O" ring that comes with the oil pan gasket is for the Oil Pickup base). If you install the "O" ring and pickup hodling bolt first its a little easier.
Then the pan, the transmission dust cover, crossmember and the install is complete.

Fill up the oil, run the engine a few minutes and once it is warm rev it a little around 2000rpm to make sure the oil gets distributed everywhere.
Check the oil pressure gauge in the cab and then chack un the trauck to make sure there are no leaks from the repair you just performed.

If you have the chance and the tools, I would suggest to tap all the bolts whole and be very carefull putting the bolts back in as they can be stripped easily (trust me ont hat one...).

Hope this helps and sorry I don't have any pick of the procedure.

Good luck.

I just did this as well, I followed the steps pretty much as he discribed. Just make sure everything goes back super clean, and don't forget to check your new oil pan drain plug to make sure it's tight before you put oil back in the truck. It will take exactly 6 and 1/2 qts of oil to fill back up. Keep in mind your new filter is empty so you have to account for that.

 

[GKTTR]

Hello, I'm new to this, I was wondering if you could tell me, once I remove the front crossmember, is it safe to climb under the truck..

 

[Fast69Mopar]

Hello, I'm new to this, I was wondering if you could tell me, once I remove the front crossmember, is it safe to climb under the truck..

Yes, it is. Nothing is going to fall or come down on top of you.

 

[GKTTR]

Thanks for the info, I'm always cautious about these things, I think I can do this job without putting it on stands.. thanks again

 

[Yz250jr]

Okay working with a rust bucket 2004 1500 ram 4x4 5.7hemi got the crossbar off flywheel cover off and oil pan is detached I can not move it out from between the engine block, front of the transmission, and top of the front differential and drive shaft. There just isn’t enough room to get the pan out I’m going crazy really stuck in a bad spot. Would jacking the truck up help? I need 2inches from somewhere. I’m very limited on tools etc no lift or engine hoist.

 

[Yz250jr]

Okay working with a rust bucket 2004 1500 ram 4x4 5.7hemi got the crossbar off flywheel cover off and oil pan is detached I can not move it out from between the engine block, front of the transmission, and top of the front differential and drive shaft. There just isn’t enough room to get the pan out I’m going crazy really stuck in a bad spot. Would jacking the truck up help? I need 2inches from somewhere. I’m very limited on tools etc no lift or engine hoist.

 

[Yz250jr]

Doing my online research I’m fiddling out that dropping down the front axle/differential is the easiest way. Anyone know for sure?

 

[Bob 03]

I have a question. I have a leak around the back of the pan area. Does the oil pan leak more in that area or the rear main seal?

 

[Octane]

I have a question. I have a leak around the back of the pan area. Does the oil pan leak more in that area or the rear main seal?

In my experience most time it's the rear seal leaking.I have had a few valve cover or oil sending units leak and run down back of motor.But the 5.7 hemi has the sending unit near the oil filter tho.

 

[riff1060]

Funny I did mine just 2 weeks ago.

It's actually pretty easy, and even more so if you have a 4x4 as you don't need to lift the engine like the service manual says you have to.

Here is a high level guide of what to do:

You will need 21mm, 17mm, 13mm, and 10mm Deep and shallow sockets, Impact drive, Torque drive

Drop the oil from the engine, and pull the Oil stick out about 3 or 4 inches (prevents from sticking it in your eye when you remove the pan as it stick out about that much under the engine)
Start by removing the front cross member (21mm and 17mm on my 4x4).
Remove the Transmission dust pan (2 horizontally screwed bolts from transmission side, then 2 horizontally screwed bolts from the engine side, then 4 vertically screwed similar bolts on each side of the engine)
Now you have access to all of the oil pan bolts (10mm)
The front bolts are a little trickier to access as they are above the rack and pinion and the front K member, but with patience and a smaller socket/ratchet they are easily removed.
Once you have removed all the oil pan bolts it can be pryed off by putting a wide flat screw-driver between the pan lip and the gasket.
Be advised that the gasket and Windage tray are bolted to the block so you can't remove it along with the pan, the pan needs to come off first.
Once you have remove the oil pan, go to the very front of the engine and remove the oil pick-up retaining bolt (10mm). Then, you have 3 bolts retaining the Windage Tray, 2 are together and one sit further up front alone and holds the oil pick-up. Start with the bolt holding the pick up in place, and carefully remove the oil pickup.
Remove the last 2 bolts holding the windage tray/gasket and take the gasket off. You m ay have to work a little to unstick the gasket from the block but just be careful not to mark the surface of block with a sharp tool as this may impair the sealing capabilities of the new gasket.
Clean the engine block surface with a little emery cloth or 3M scuffer to remove any rust or other residue of the old gasket that could have remained on the block.

The installation is the reverse:

Put the Gasket in place, 2 screws holding the Windage tray.
The the oil pickup (The "O" ring that comes with the oil pan gasket is for the Oil Pickup base). If you install the "O" ring and pickup hodling bolt first its a little easier.
Then the pan, the transmission dust cover, crossmember and the install is complete.

Fill up the oil, run the engine a few minutes and once it is warm rev it a little around 2000rpm to make sure the oil gets distributed everywhere.
Check the oil pressure gauge in the cab and then chack un the trauck to make sure there are no leaks from the repair you just performed.

If you have the chance and the tools, I would suggest to tap all the bolts whole and be very carefull putting the bolts back in as they can be stripped easily (trust me ont hat one...).

Hope this helps and sorry I don't have any pick of the procedure.

Good luck.

I recently bought a 2002 Ram 1500 4x4 quad cab sport w/ 88k miles for a work truck I can abuse without worry. No dents at all, but a little rust on the rockers from the Illinois salt seasons. I need to replace the oil pan though due to rust that has led to seepage/leaks. I am going to use the guide, so thanks for posting it(years ago).

 

[riff1060]

Got out my pan. my bolts were as follows: cross member Deep well 18mm for the nut(4), 15 mm bolt head(4), trans dust pan 15mm(8 bolts), oil pan 10mm(18). did exactly what the list said, in the order in which it's listed. check out how bad the pan was. Started snowing, so I will install the new one tomorrow