Oil Weight & Cold Air Intake, Phoenix Arizona

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stinkfinger

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Hello all,

I have a 2014 ram tradesman. 5.7 Hemi. I was wondering two things. First should I run a thicker weight oil in the summertime since we have extreme heat and a lower weight for the rest of the year. Second again another heat related question, but would a "Cold air intake actually even do anything for me in an area that is 100 plus degrees 4 months out of the year? Any advice would be greatly appreciated!
 

rzr6-4

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Should you run thicker oil? Well that depends, what are you running now? Factory calls for 5w20, if so yes you should step up to 5w30. Already using 5w30, no I wouldn't go any thicker.

If you are otherwise stock, a tune will do far more than any new CAI. I'm not saying you will gain NO hp, but spending hundreds on 2-3hp is hardly worth it. You can easily get to 500hp with stock intake. Not my money not my problem but others will likely chime in agreeing with firm criticisms on the idea of adding an aftermarket CAI.
 

Scottly

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CAI = WPOS. Your factory airbox is already engineered to suck in fresh, cool air from the front fender area, and the factory paper filer keeps out particles WAYYY smaller than the oiled cotton filters common in CAIs...Not to mention the oil mists from those filters causing issues with the MAS.
 

Black1500Ram

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Phoenix here also. I run 5w30 year round.
Like others have said don’t waste money on CAI. Get a wix or purolator one factory sized air filter they’ve been shown to flow and filter among the best. There’s a thread on here on it.

If you haven’t done the grill shutter removal or lower temp thermostat I would start there. I run a 195° tstat. I’ve done the caulk 8spd trans heater bypass too so it’s always running at 110°-150° depending on ambient. (<20°-110°+).

Went up to Flag this past weekend and noticed on the grades even unloaded my temps were creeping up to 220’s at 75mph.
Might be time for me to coat these headers (if I don’t get long tubes) and drop in an oil cooler / relocation. These trucks love to run hot
 
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stinkfinger

stinkfinger

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CAI = WPOS. Your factory airbox is already engineered to suck in fresh, cool air from the front fender area, and the factory paper filer keeps out particles WAYYY smaller than the oiled cotton filters common in CAIs...Not to mention the oil mists from those filters causing issues with the MAS.
Ok got it, so don't waste the time with them. thanks for the heads up!
 
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stinkfinger

stinkfinger

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Phoenix here also. I run 5w30 year round.
Like others have said don’t waste money on CAI. Get a wix or purolator one factory sized air filter they’ve been shown to flow and filter among the best. There’s a thread on here on it.

If you haven’t done the grill shutter removal or lower temp thermostat I would start there. I run a 195° tstat. I’ve done the caulk 8spd trans heater bypass too so it’s always running at 110°-150° depending on ambient. (<20°-110°+).

Went up to Flag this past weekend and noticed on the grades even unloaded my temps were creeping up to 220’s at 75mph.
Might be time for me to coat these headers (if I don’t get long tubes) and drop in an oil cooler / relocation. These trucks love to run hot
Thanks @ black1500ram ....I am not used to these hot summers. I am a transplant from the great lake's region, and we are used to running two different oils during the year Bc of the extreme winters and summers. I will have to look up the "grill shutter removal" trick. as far as thermostat I have no idea what the previous owner did, but I will be sure to look at that. It's getting really hot here lately and want to make sure I keep the truck as cool as possible.
 

Burla

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CAI = WPOS. Your factory airbox is already engineered to suck in fresh, cool air from the front fender area, and the factory paper filer keeps out particles WAYYY smaller than the oiled cotton filters common in CAIs...Not to mention the oil mists from those filters causing issues with the MAS.
This, I live on gravel and I havent changed the original oem filter yet, lol. I have had a new one ready to go in since 2016, but everytime I check it it isn't dirty yet. I am very impressed with ram's air flow from behind fender.

For oil 0w40 is basically the same thing as 5w30, the main difference is 0w40 tends to be thicker early in an oci, and 5w30 tends to be thicker later in the run. Now if you use 0w40 you would want top change the oil when it tends to be the hottest, same with 5w30 but less necessary, and a shorter interval is more desirable with 0w40 then 5w30. When I say 0w40 I mean shelf 0w40's, they are usually built on the thin side of 40 weight. And 5w30 are going thinner these days, look for one near cSt 12, or you can opt for 10w30 for just the summer, which may be the best option.
 

Burla

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Another option is to get a 180 t stat. Oil viscosity is simply a measurement of flow at a certain temp. If you can run an engine cooler, it is like running a thicker oil by a full grade. Where this might get sticky is on long engine runs when the oil starts getting hotter then the coolant. If I lived in Phoenix, I'd do both thick oil and t stat upgrade. Look at the warm oil side, you can see by cooling the oil the cSt rises a grade up.

viscosidad-aceite-motor-manejando.jpg
 
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G-Ride990

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You can also run Redline water wetter dunno why I didn’t think about it for this truck. I’ve run it in every performance car I’ve owned.
Can we mix that with our horribly sensitive coolant in our trucks? I have used it in everything from motorcycles to trucks I have owned over the years. Great stuff!
 

Black1500Ram

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"
A relpy from redline.

Mr. Speck, I received your note and appreciate you bringing it to our attention. We’d appreciate it if you’d post our reply on your forum. We visit hundreds of forums daily for help like this, but haven’t hit that one.



WaterWetter is perfectly safe in these vehicles.



There’s only a few ways for a water pump to fail. The first is bearing failure: all modern water pumps have sealed bearings and neither WaterWetter nor glycol coolant can cause that seal to fail (if it dies, it was going to die prematurely anyway). When you hear people talk about the need for lubricating a water pump (as its mentioned by us, too), it is in regard to very old pump without a sealed bearing. The second reason is electrolysis: WaterWetter has a protection package against this and so does glycol antifreeze. Unless people are using really bad sources of water for their typical 50/50 mix, it’s pretty tough to cause this failure.



There’s nothing “different” about these vehicles. Racers, enthusiasts, and general motorists have used WaterWetter for many years to control cooling issues and to protect against corrosion, both in straight water and in 50/50 mixes of glycol coolant. We sell thousands of bottles without issue and our customers are quite happy with its performance. Remember that WaterWetter is completely compatible all glycol antifreeze, including GM Dexcool, the DaimlerChrysler longlife, and the VW/Audi fluid.



The film that you speak of is a problem that we hear about occasionally (usually with VW coolant), but it happens whether there’s WaterWetter in the mix or not. It’s actually a problem with coolant, where the silicates and anti-oxidation chemicals in glycol coolant can come out of suspension. The film is harmless and might be blamed by a dealership for a failure of a pump or system that had other problem on contamination.



A tip for your forum is to try to use distilled or deionized water in your system, always a good bet. Also, never mix a regular coolant with the longlife types that ship with your vehicle from the factory—that cause huge problems and might be a source of some of these issues. Other than these two things, it’s pretty hard to get it wrong.



We hope that helps and ask that you consider using our product. You should notice a temperature improvement if your vehicle is actually running hotter than the level normally controlled by the thermostat.



Best regards,



Cameron Evans

Director of Sales and Marketing

Red Line Synthetic Oil Corporation

(707) 750-1175

(707) 745-3214 fax

[email protected]

www.redlineoil.com

Thank you for contacting Red Line Oil, I am unfamiliar with water pump failures and wouldn't expect they are the result of using WaterWetter, it contains a lubricant and is suitable for use alone. What has failed in the water pumps?
The precipitate isn't oil but a reaction between corrosion packages, it comes out of phase when cool, seen in the expansion tank and goes back into suspension in the radiator when hot, it isn't harmful.

Regards, Dave
Red Line Oil"
 
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stinkfinger

stinkfinger

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So glad i joined this forum. You guys are great and certainly know your "****"! are these the CIA intake OEM filters we were talking about in the beginningfilters.JPG of the thread?
 

Black1500Ram

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Bighorn_Brown

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CAI = WPOS. Your factory airbox is already engineered to suck in fresh, cool air from the front fender area, and the factory paper filer keeps out particles WAYYY smaller than the oiled cotton filters common in CAIs...Not to mention the oil mists from those filters causing issues with the MAS.
Agreed, but there are better flowing dry filters on the market. They don’t require washing, and oiling.
 

Scottly

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Agreed, but there are better flowing dry filters on the market. They don’t require washing, and oiling.
Which is pointless if the engine can't pump more air. And the bottom line is...Whenever you lessen restrictions on filtering, you lessen filtering capability. Every race engine I ever built had a K&N, or no filter at all, because longevity wasn't a consideration. My grocery getter uses factory paper filters...It makes more sense.
 

rosco11

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Hello all,

I have a 2014 ram tradesman. 5.7 Hemi. I was wondering two things. First should I run a thicker weight oil in the summertime since we have extreme heat and a lower weight for the rest of the year. Second again another heat related question, but would a "Cold air intake actually even do anything for me in an area that is 100 plus degrees 4 months out of the year? Any advice would be greatly appreciated!
The oil. No. Dodge spent a lot of time and money to determine exactly what viscosity your engine needs for any driving condition. Cold Air Intake. No. The factory air intake is designed to deliver more air flow than the engine needs, even if it is dirty. You get nothing from a CAI, performance wise unless you modify the engine to demand more air. Cam, tuning, bigger injectors, head work, etc...............Something you need to know. The ONLY place a CAI delivers a cooler charge is on a dyno with the hood up and a shop fan blowing on the engine. The factory air cleaner is designed to pull air from the wheel well, not the engine bay. A CAI pulls it from the engine bay. The moment you shut the fan off, close the hood and start driving it on hot pavement, your CAI becomes a HOT AIR intake..........the CAI is a marketing darling, like slick 50, to get ignorant people to spend a few hundred dollars for bling. The sell you a box of fear, your engine is not getting enough air, or hot air that is robbing it of power,.....then they sell you the solution...........unless you seriously modify the engine, your factory air system will out perform any requirements the engine demands and pull air from OUTSIDE of the engine bay.
 

Wild one

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The oil. No. Dodge spent a lot of time and money to determine exactly what viscosity your engine needs for any driving condition. Cold Air Intake. No. The factory air intake is designed to deliver more air flow than the engine needs, even if it is dirty. You get nothing from a CAI, performance wise unless you modify the engine to demand more air. Cam, tuning, bigger injectors, head work, etc...............Something you need to know. The ONLY place a CAI delivers a cooler charge is on a dyno with the hood up and a shop fan blowing on the engine. The factory air cleaner is designed to pull air from the wheel well, not the engine bay. A CAI pulls it from the engine bay. The moment you shut the fan off, close the hood and start driving it on hot pavement, your CAI becomes a HOT AIR intake..........the CAI is a marketing darling, like slick 50, to get ignorant people to spend a few hundred dollars for bling. The sell you a box of fear, your engine is not getting enough air, or hot air that is robbing it of power,.....then they sell you the solution...........unless you seriously modify the engine, your factory air system will out perform any requirements the engine demands and pull air from OUTSIDE of the engine bay.
You might want to read the note at the bottom.This was in the bigger 700 page printed manuals up till 17,then they removed it,as supposedly the trucks wouldn't make their advertised milege numbers with 5W-30.
Another tidbit for you,the engine hasn't changed since 09 to now,but they're now calling for 0W-20,and just why do you think that is,it sure as hell isn't for engine longevity,and i highly doubt the engineers were the push to 0W-20.
 

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