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My Lexus has a Denso radiator. In this case, the entire radiator is aluminum.... no plastic. Go figure!That's awesome!
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Changeout doesn't look too bad. After seeing the size of the box, I know why shipping was $100.
240 doesn't typically cause a lot of problems on most cars, but it depends on the driver's mindset at the time of overheat. The overheats that wind up in my shop, needing a new engine, belong to the group of "I gotta get home! Damn the torpedoes, full steam ahead!"No offense intended, Rick.
I just hope that the 240° didn't take out a head gasket on me.
It only took about 2 quarts to top it off initially.
I will crack the drain plug loose first to see if there's any coolant in the crankcase.
I got a rad from RockAuto, but cost $100 to ship, but was still a bit cheaper that local. Sucks that its only coming from the other side of the state, hopefully it will survive shipping.
Still am a bit nervous, I did have to get out of the line of traffic I was in, seemed like an eternity. I will find out soon enough. No white smoke at exhaust.240 doesn't typically cause a lot of problems on most cars, but it depends on the driver's mindset at the time of overheat. The overheats that wind up in my shop, needing a new engine, belong to the group of "I gotta get home! Damn the torpedoes, full steam ahead!"
The ones who stop and have the car towed seldom have anything major to repair. Go figure!
Oil in the coolant doesn't look much differant then coolant in with the oil in the pan,both will have a milkshake look to them,Ed. There's 2 block drains on the side of the engine,just ahead of the motor mounts,that if you can get out,will drain alot more coolant out of the engine.If i remember right they should be a either 13mm or a 15 mm,it's been a bit since i've had them out,and alzehiemers has set in,lolStill am a bit nervous, I did have to get out of the line of traffic I was in, seemed like an eternity. I will find out soon enough. No white smoke at exhaust.
Gonna crack the oil drain plug loose enough to let it drip, should know in a few seconds if coolant is in the crankcase.
Only other thing would be oil in the coolant. Not sure how to tell that just yet.
I just might pull the grill and remove a couple of the ags louvers while I'm at it. I can access the overflow tank while I'm doing that.
Oil in the coolant doesn't look much differant then coolant in with the oil in the pan,both will have a milkshake look to them,Ed. There's 2 block drains on the side of the engine,just ahead of the motor mounts,that if you can get out,will drain alot more coolant out of the engine.If i remember right they should be a either 13mm or a 15 mm,it's been a bit since i've had them out,and alzehiemers has set in,lol
I bought my 2002 S/T Blazer with the 4.3L V-6 3 years ago. It had 253,000 miles on it, AND it had sat for 5 years (2017 Registration sticker displayed 2018 expiry.) I spent several months getting it running again, and did many things to it, including flushing out the crap "universal coolant" replacing all hoses, thermostat, cap, and putting GM "DEXCOOL" back into it. Anyhoo, I proceeded to do many other repairs and drove it around the neighborhood without any problems. One day, I started it up to warm it on a cold day, and there was a big puddle of DEXCOOL under the front of the car. It was the water pump. What really surprised me was how dirt-cheap the new water pump was... just a bit over 20 dollars, IIRC.I just did a coolant flush on 2 different Hemis very recently. They were both 14mm, if I remember right.
I followed along with Hemi395s method from this thread and used Mopar Orange HOAT for the Durango, and Mopar purple OAT for Ram. Exactly what was already in them.
Ram 5.7Hemi Coolant Flush DIY
Since I didn't find a writeup on this and it was requested by a couple members here, I decided to make one. I would recommend doing a flush of the cooling system every 5 years if you're planning on keeping the truck for any length of time. The steps I outline in this writeup involve flushing the...www.ramforum.com
On another note, oddly, on both my Ram and my wife's Durango, the water pumps failed exactly 2 weeks after the coolant flush!
Both. At the same time. 2 weeks after.Both cases, the pulley started wobbling and coolant drooling out the weep hole.
I wondered if just coincidence , bad luck, did I mistakenly get muriatic acid instead of distilled water?..... Cause, it tastes like regular water.
But a few Google searches indicate that it might actually be a common thing for a high mileage, on its last leg anyway, water pump to die right after a coolant flush.
It seems that I'm not the first.
![]()
Why did changing my coolant break my water pump
Many years ago I changed the coolant in my 1994 Mazda Lantis. I had no idea what I was doing, and the result was my water pump broke and started leaking. The mechanic replaced it and all was good....mechanics.stackexchange.com
Water Pump Fails after Coolant Flush
So I got my Ranger about a month ago. Have done numerous small trouble shooting repairs to get her up to snuff. Thought I was there so I did a coolant flush on Sunday (4/1). I take a ride the next day and it appears now that my water pump has failed. Coolant dripping out the bottom (haven't...www.therangerstation.com
And there's lots more. I'd never heard of this before.
So, two new Mopar OEM water pumps, new pulleys and new belts are on the way from Rock Auto.
Btw, I hate the plastic pulleys that are used on these. I found a stamped steel pulley, the Dayco 89052 that is the same diameter, almost the same width and had replaceable bearings. I have some new Timken 6203 bearings in a drawer from a lathe motor project a few years ago, I'm gonna press into the Dayco pulleys and see if they work.
just a bit over 20 dollars, IIRC.
Yup! The 4.3L is just a 350 minus 2 cylinders! BTW, After my last brand new car purchase, (2008 F-150 Lariat), I got into some difficulties with money due to the AIG thing. Dave Ramsey to the rescue. These days, I buy an old hooptie and fix it up. The Blazer had to go after I bought a customer's 2014 Kia Sorento. I sold the Blazer to make room. The Sorento had only 130,000 miles on it, and had puked a GDI injector. After replacing all 6 injectors (a HUGE job), it runs like a top and is our main transportation. My car is now a 2004 Lexus RX330 which I bought from the estate of an old man who became demented with Alzheimer's and the State took his driver's license. Although I got this VERY clean, low mileage Lexus, I had to put 6 grand into repairs (front struts, brakes, timing belt, water pump, crank and cam seals, Power steering hose, and so on.)Yea, I'm retiring in 1yr, 8mos and 1day. My plan is to keep my current truck for the rest of my life.
If that plan fails, my next car will be one like yours. I may get one anyway. I'm done buying expensive cars.
I've kinda always wanted an old 1st gen Dodge Ram. I don't want to have to move a 3rd vehicle 2600 miles next year, but after I've relocated, I going to buy one.
If I remember right, that 4.3 uses the same water pump as a small block Chevy?
You're probably correct and they're 14mm . it's been a bit since i had a set of block drains out,and alzheimers sets in every once inawhile,lol.I just did a coolant flush on 2 different Hemis very recently. They were both 14mm, if I remember right.
I followed along with Hemi395s method from this thread and used Mopar Orange HOAT for the Durango, and Mopar purple OAT for Ram. Exactly what was already in them.
Ram 5.7Hemi Coolant Flush DIY
Since I didn't find a writeup on this and it was requested by a couple members here, I decided to make one. I would recommend doing a flush of the cooling system every 5 years if you're planning on keeping the truck for any length of time. The steps I outline in this writeup involve flushing the...www.ramforum.com
On another note, oddly, on both my Ram and my wife's Durango, the water pumps failed exactly 2 weeks after the coolant flush!
Both. At the same time. 2 weeks after.Both cases, the pulley started wobbling and coolant drooling out the weep hole.
I wondered if just coincidence , bad luck, did I mistakenly get muriatic acid instead of distilled water?..... Cause, it tastes like regular water.
But a few Google searches indicate that it might actually be a common thing for a high mileage, on its last leg anyway, water pump to die right after a coolant flush.
It seems that I'm not the first.
![]()
Why did changing my coolant break my water pump
Many years ago I changed the coolant in my 1994 Mazda Lantis. I had no idea what I was doing, and the result was my water pump broke and started leaking. The mechanic replaced it and all was good....mechanics.stackexchange.com
Water Pump Fails after Coolant Flush
So I got my Ranger about a month ago. Have done numerous small trouble shooting repairs to get her up to snuff. Thought I was there so I did a coolant flush on Sunday (4/1). I take a ride the next day and it appears now that my water pump has failed. Coolant dripping out the bottom (haven't...www.therangerstation.com
And there's lots more. I'd never heard of this before.
So, two new Mopar OEM water pumps, new pulleys and new belts are on the way from Rock Auto.
Btw, I hate the plastic pulleys that are used on these. I found a stamped steel pulley, the Dayco 89052 that is the same diameter, almost the same width and had replaceable bearings. I have some new Timken 6203 bearings in a drawer from a lathe motor project a few years ago, I'm gonna press into the Dayco pulleys and see if they work.
You're probably correct and they're 14mm . it's been a bit since i had a set of block drains out,and alzheimers sets in every once inawhile,lol.
I've never had a water pump go bad from a coolant flush,knock on wood,but do know it does happen a fair bit on a higher milege engine that's never had a coolant change.
I'm one of those guys who swaps thermostats twice a year,and always uses new coolant to replace what i drained,so the coolant on the majority of my vehicles stays pretty fresh,except my winter beaters,they're lucky if they get an oil change once every 5 years,lol
I still have a couple of the old Gates (before they sold out) thermostats for the 180's i run in the summer,and for the winter i re-install the factory 203 thermostats.I wash the hell out of the thermostats when i remove them and then store them in ziplock bags,and it seems to keep them in good shape.Any new thermostat i always check by throwing it in a pot of water on the stove,then bring the pot of water up to temp,and use a meat thermometer to check it's opening temp,still doesn't mean it'll last anymore then a couple months,but at least i know it was working when i installed it,lolWhat thermostats to you use?
I occasionally drive across some big deserts in Utah, AZ and NM, so I'm pretty much afraid of aftermarket thermostats. They don't seem to have a very good reputation these days
When I heard that all the new Mopar OEM thermostats are now Motorad as well, I've resorted to keeping the old USA made Mopar thermostats installed, and a spare in each cars emergency toolkit.
Motorad has historically been the worst brand ever for me. I quit using the product in about 2017 or so, because of how often the cap or thermostat would fail right out of the box. Nowadays, Motorad makes t-stats for several OE's. I have used exactly 2 t-stats and one rad cap in the almost 8 years since, due to the "virus". Those few items have been holding up well.What thermostats to you use?
I occasionally drive across some big deserts in Utah, AZ and NM, so I'm pretty much afraid of aftermarket thermostats. Reading the reviews on them, I can easily see myself cooking and engine while towing up a mountain grade between Salt Lake and Moab.
They don't seem to have a very good reputation these days
When I heard that all the new Mopar OEM thermostats are now Motorad as well, I've resorted to keeping the old USA made Mopar thermostats installed, and a spare in each cars emergency toolkit.
Motorad has historically been the worst brand ever for me. I quit using the product in about 2017 or so, because of how often the cap or thermostat would fail right out of the box. Nowadays, Motorad makes t-stats for several OE's. I have used exactly 2 t-stats and one rad cap in the almost 8 years since, due to the "virus". Those few items have been holding up well.
I had an older than me technician about 15 years ago who I hired. He had been aboard a diesel powered ship in the Navy during the Viet Nam years. He had a deep knowledge of thermostats and explained to me why the aftermarket ones were just at the ragged edge of any good. According to him, it was the quality and purity of the copper/silicon capsule part of the t-stat which separated the Men from the boys. He also was a big fan of OE parts. I took his word for it and adopted the "OE" thing for caps and t-stats.
I do not trade with Rock Auto unless I ABSOLUTELY have NO other choice. I've never heard of "CalorStat", I wonder who their parent company is. I recently bought a Murray radiator cap. On it was embossed "Motorad". $hit, man, I can't seem to get away from Motorad GARBAGE.Any experience with CalorStat? I've noticed that Rock Auto carries a few that fit Hemis, and I saw mention that their plant is in Indiana.