P1524 Error Code

[HemiHavoc]

So after fixing my previous issues with my truck and thinking I was finally done with issues, this lovely code pops up. According to my tuner it says it is the Variable Intake Solenoid Circuit. When I look it up online though it says it Oil pressure out of range camshaft advance/retard disable. Any thoughts on where to look first? I did a search for the code here with minor results. Thanks

 

[HemiHavoc]

Nobody has any thoughts on this error code?

 

[NCRaineman]

http://www.fixya.com/cars/t25622478-engine_code_p1524_mean_possible_fix

Says it's a problem with the throttle position sensor or oil pressure sensor.

Have you cleaned your throttle body lately? Do you have a tuner to keep an eye on oil pressure?

 

[huntergreen]

The throttle body position sensor is fairly common issue. I would check the throttle body first before replacing parts.

 

[HemiHavoc]

http://www.fixya.com/cars/t25622478-engine_code_p1524_mean_possible_fix

Says it's a problem with the throttle position sensor or oil pressure sensor.

Have you cleaned your throttle body lately? Do you have a tuner to keep an eye on oil pressure?

Yeah I have a diablosport trinity and have been monitoring it for a few days. Lowest oil pressure I've seen is 18, highest 39. I cleaned the throttle body about a year ago, but I will definitely start there tomorrow.

 

[Wild one]

Yeah I have a diablosport trinity and have been monitoring it for a few days. Lowest oil pressure I've seen is 18, highest 39. I cleaned the throttle body about a year ago, but I will definitely start there tomorrow.

The oil pressure sensors are also a known issue,and your oil pressures seem a little low.If you get nowhere with the TB sensor,try replacing the oil pressure sensor. My oil pressure sensor went at 28,000 miles,they aren't that expensive and are fairly easy to swap out

 

[NCRaineman]

Lowest oil pressure I've seen is 18, highest 39.

That is NOT good, not at all.

When my truck is hot and idling oil pressure is around 46, and under acceleration it will go up to around 60.

For the VCT to kick in oil pressure needs to hit 42, and for it to remain enabled pressure needs to stay above 31.

How many miles on that engine? What kind of oil are you using?

May be time to consider a tear down and replacing some bearings before you spin one.

 

[HemiHavoc]

So the throttle body looks almost as clean as it was after I cleaned it a year ago. I am using Penzoil Synthetic 5w-30. The truck has 154k on it. If I have to do a motor rebuild I'll just sell the truck. I did a motor rebuild on my duramax when it spun a crank bearing a couple years ago, but I'm not putting that kind of time and money into this truck.

 

[Wild one]

So the throttle body looks almost as clean as it was after I cleaned it a year ago. I am using Penzoil Synthetic 5w-30. The truck has 154k on it. If I have to do a motor rebuild I'll just sell the truck. I did a motor rebuild on my duramax when it spun a crank bearing a couple years ago, but I'm not putting that kind of time and money into this truck.

If the motors not making any oddball noises like ticking from lifters/knocking from bearings etc,i'd suspect the sensor itself. They are known to have issues.You could screw a master gauge into the oil pressure port and get a hot idling reading from it.That would allow you to see if the master gauges reading matches your evic reading,while hot and idling.

 

[NCRaineman]

If the motors not making any oddball noises like ticking from lifters/knocking from bearings etc,i'd suspect the sensor itself. They are known to have issues.You could screw a master gauge into the oil pressure port and get a hot idling reading from it.That would allow you to see if the master gauges reading matches your evic reading,while hot and idling.

Certainly worth checking that way to know for sure.

 

[HemiHavoc]

I changed the oil and filter in the truck today and I was shocked to see how low it was on oil. Looks like I was about 3qts low. Hopefully no damage has been done to the motor. I know it's my fault for not checking it sooner, but the truck is relatively new to me. I guess I'll have to monitor it a lot closer from now on. Oil pressure is up to 54psi at idle so hopefully the problem is resolved. I'll report back in the next couple days to confirm. Thanks everyone for the help.

 

[onemaingun]

Has the same issue recently, pcv valve was faulty.

 

[Aleckb]

Having similar issues. Purchased a 2013 w/ 5.7 (85K miles) in November, everything was perfect when I bought it, no noises, ticks, nothing, engine was quiet. I hadn't been watching the oil pressure but had been checking levels and wasn't getting any lights at all. Then, about 3 weeks ago I started hearing a ticking sound from the drivers side. Thought it was lifters but no light and not missing or any rough idle so I got a stethoscope out and and checked different spots on the block and didn't hear anything. Sounded like the exhaust manifold bolt had broke (Read that was a common problem) and sense I didn't hear anything internal I figured that's what it was. Then, about a week later I got a light, it was 0521 (Engine Oil Pressure Switch) and 1524 (Oil pressure out of range camshaft advance/retard) but no rough idle or additional noises. Checked oil, level good and then I noticed the oil pressure on the digital readout was showing 35-40 at startup then 25-30 when at highway speed and dropping to 19-20 psi at idle (When warm). Changed out the oil pressure sensor and no change, light on and will come back after within 15-20 minutes of driving after I clear it. Oil pressure is obviously low or else it wouldn't be tripping the light but question is, why does the analog gauge on the instrument cluster look correct? It's almost center line and doesn't fluctuate at all. Comes up at startup and stays there but the digital indication is showing low? Does anyone know why the analog gauge doesn't seem to match the digital readout?

So far:

1. I suspect the PCV valve is bad, there is oil on the filter, not a lot, just a line about 2 inches wide but there nonetheless. Not sure if this would cause low oil pressure?

2. It does have the original oil in it from when I purchased it, I've put about 8600 miles on it since I purchased it and it's due for a change so that is going to happen tomorrow. I may be a possibility but doubt it's the oil or filter, my wife's 2015 GC w/ Hemi needs change too and it's at at a solid 50 psi.

3. Even though I can't hear any valve train noises I'm concerned there still main be a problem with the mains/bearings. I'm a fairly experienced mechanic, rebuilt several engines and worked on aircraft engines while in the service. Plan on hooking up gauge to it this weekend and see what I've got.

4. Maybe I've gotten used to hearing the tick but I'm the noise coming from the drivers side (What I thought was a broken exhaust manifold bolt) doesn't seem to be there anymore.

5. I put a can of STP Oil Treatment in it and it didn't seem to help the oil pressure.


Again, might just be avoiding the inevitable but have to try the easy stuff first instead of having to get a new motor. I've read post on here that suggest cleaning the throttle body and I see a response on hear about a PVC valve being the culprit. Could that (Or anything else) be the cause of this?

 

[crackerjack1957]

Diagnostic Test

1. ACTIVE DTC

NOTE: Make sure that the engine oil is at the proper level. Also, review the customers oil change history to ensure that the oil is being changed at the correct intervals and that the proper oil viscosity is being used.

1. Start the engine and allow it to reach normal operating temperature.

WARNING:
When the engine is operating, do not stand in direct line with the fan. Do not put your hands near the pulleys, belts or fan. Do not wear loose clothing. Failure to follow these instructions may result in possible serious or fatal injury.

1. Using the scan tool, read the active DTCs.

Is the DTC Active at this time?

Yes

• Go To 2

No

• Perform the INTERMITTENT CONDITION diagnostic procedure. See: Powertrain Management\Computers and Control Systems\Testing and Inspection\Initial Inspection and Diagnostic Overview\PCM Intermittent Condition Test.

2. ENGINE OIL/ENGINE MECHANICAL

1. The following items should be considered before determining the cause of this DTC. Failure to do so may lead to misdiagnosis.

• ENGINE MECHANICAL TOLERANCES OUT OF SPECIFICATION
• ENGINE OIL PRESSURE OUT OF SPECIFICATION
• LOW ENGINE OIL LEVEL
• ENGINE OIL FILTER INCORRECT (DOES NOT MEET OEM SPECIFICATIONS)
• DETERIORATED OR DIRTY OIL
• ENGINE OIL CONTAMINATED (i.e., coolant and/or fuel)
• INCORRECT ENGINE OIL VISCOSITY
• ENGINE OIL AERATED

Were any of the above conditions present?

Yes

• Repair as necessary.
• Perform the POWERTRAIN VERIFICATION TEST. See: Verification Tests\Powertrain Verification Test.

No

• Go To 3

3. CHECK THE ENGINE OIL PRESSURE SENSOR

1. Turn the ignition off.
2. Disconnect the Engine Oil Pressure Sensor harness connector.
3. Ignition on, engine not running.
4. With the scan tool, monitor the Engine Oil Pressure Sensor voltage.
5. Connect a jumper between the (K900) Sensor Ground circuit and the (G6) Engine Oil Pressure Signal circuit.

NOTE: Engine Oil Pressure voltage should change from approximately 5.0 volts to less than 0.1 volts.
Is the voltage reading within the listed specification when the jumper is installed?

Yes

• Verify that there is good pin to terminal contact in the Sensor and Powertrain Control Module connectors. Remove the Engine Oil Pressure sensor and ensure the oil passage/port is free from any blockage. If OK, replace the Engine Oil Pressure Sensor. See: Engine, Cooling and Exhaust\Engine\Oil Pressure Sensor\Service and Repair.
• Perform the POWERTRAIN VERIFICATION TEST. See: Verification Tests\Powertrain Verification Test.

No

• Go To 4

NOTE: Remove the jumper wire before continuing.
4. CHECK FOR EXCESSIVE RESISTANCE IN THE (G6) ENGINE OIL PRESSURE SIGNAL CIRCUIT

1. Turn the ignition off.

CAUTION:
Do not probe the PCM harness connectors. Probing the PCM harness connectors will damage the PCM terminals resulting in poor terminal to pin connection. Install the GPEC Diagnostic Adaptor to perform the diagnosis.

1. Disconnect the PCM C2 harness connector and connect the (10436).
2. Measure the resistance of the (G6) Engine Oil Pressure Signal circuit from the Engine Oil Pressure Sensor harness connector to the GPEC Adapter.

Is the resistance below 5.0 Ohms?

Yes

• Go To 5

No

• Repair the (G6) Engine Oil Pressure Signal circuit for high resistance.
• Perform the POWERTRAIN VERIFICATION TEST. See: Verification Tests\Powertrain Verification Test.

5. CHECK FOR EXCESSIVE RESISTANCE IN THE (F855) 5-VOLT SUPPLY CIRCUIT

1. Measure the resistance of the (F855) 5-Volt Supply circuit from the Engine Oil Pressure Sensor harness connector to the GPEC Adapter.

Is the resistance below 5.0 Ohms?

Yes

• Go To 6

No

• Repair the (F855) 5-Volt Supply circuit for high resistance.
• Perform the POWERTRAIN VERIFICATION TEST. See: Verification Tests\Powertrain Verification Test.

6. CHECK FOR EXCESSIVE RESISTANCE IN THE (K900) SENSOR GROUND CIRCUIT

1. Measure the resistance of the (K900) Sensor Ground circuit from the Engine Oil Pressure Sensor harness connector to the GPEC Adapter.

Is the resistance below 5.0 Ohms?

Yes

• Go To 7

No

• Repair the (K900) Sensor Ground circuit for high resistance.
• Perform the POWERTRAIN VERIFICATION TEST. See: Verification Tests\Powertrain Verification Test.

7. POWERTRAIN CONTROL MODULE (PCM)

1. Using the wiring diagram/schematic as a guide, inspect the wiring and connectors between the Engine Oil Pressure Sensor and the Powertrain Control Module (PCM).
2. Look for any chafed, pierced, pinched or partially broken wires.
3. Look for broken, bent, pushed out or corroded terminals. Verify that there is good pin to terminal contact in the Sensor and Powertrain Control Module connectors.
4. Perform any Technical Service Bulletins that may apply.

Were there any problems found?

Yes

• Repair as necessary.
• Perform the POWERTRAIN VERIFICATION TEST. See: Verification Tests\Powertrain Verification Test.

No

• Replace and program the Powertrain Control Module. See: Powertrain Management\Computers and Control Systems\Engine Control Module\Service and Repair.
• Perform the POWERTRAIN VERIFICATION TEST. See: Verification Tests\Powertrain Verification Test.

 

[Aleckb]

Having similar issues. Purchased a 2013 w/ 5.7 (85K miles) in November, everything was perfect when I bought it, no noises, ticks, nothing, engine was quiet. I hadn't been watching the oil pressure but had been checking levels and wasn't getting any lights at all. Then, about 3 weeks ago I started hearing a ticking sound from the drivers side. Thought it was lifters but no light and not missing or any rough idle so I got a stethoscope out and and checked different spots on the block and didn't hear anything. Sounded like the exhaust manifold bolt had broke (Read that was a common problem) and sense I didn't hear anything internal I figured that's what it was. Then, about a week later I got a light, it was 0521 (Engine Oil Pressure Switch) and 1524 (Oil pressure out of range camshaft advance/retard) but no rough idle or additional noises. Checked oil, level good and then I noticed the oil pressure on the digital readout was showing 35-40 at startup then 25-30 when at highway speed and dropping to 19-20 psi at idle (When warm). Changed out the oil pressure sensor and no change, light on and will come back after within 15-20 minutes of driving after I clear it. Oil pressure is obviously low or else it wouldn't be tripping the light but question is, why does the analog gauge on the instrument cluster look correct? It's almost center line and doesn't fluctuate at all. Comes up at startup and stays there but the digital indication is showing low? Does anyone know why the analog gauge doesn't seem to match the digital readout?

So far:

1. I suspect the PCV valve is bad, there is oil on the filter, not a lot, just a line about 2 inches wide but there nonetheless. Not sure if this would cause low oil pressure?

2. It does have the original oil in it from when I purchased it, I've put about 8600 miles on it since I purchased it and it's due for a change so that is going to happen tomorrow. I may be a possibility but doubt it's the oil or filter, my wife's 2015 GC w/ Hemi needs change too and it's at at a solid 50 psi.

3. Even though I can't hear any valve train noises I'm concerned there still main be a problem with the mains/bearings. I'm a fairly experienced mechanic, rebuilt several engines and worked on aircraft engines while in the service. Plan on hooking up gauge to it this weekend and see what I've got.

4. Maybe I've gotten used to hearing the tick but I'm the noise coming from the drivers side (What I thought was a broken exhaust manifold bolt) doesn't seem to be there anymore.

5. I put a can of STP Oil Treatment in it and it didn't seem to help the oil pressure.


Again, might just be avoiding the inevitable but have to try the easy stuff first instead of having to get a new motor. I've read post on here that suggest cleaning the throttle body and I see a response on hear about a PVC valve being the culprit. Could that (Or anything else) be the cause of this?

So, I cleaned the throttle body with some cleaner and removed the PVC valve, cleaned w/ same cleaner I used on the TB and reinstalled it (It didn't seem worn but I am going to replace it anyways). Started up and NO change in oil pressure, still about 35-40 at startup. I then changed the oil/filter using 20-50W full synthetic and when I started it I had 58 psi and when warm it went to 35. Only thing I noticed was the oil seemed foamy and lighter in color than normal. I bought the truck and the dealer had already done an oil change on it so not sure what they used but going to keep an eye on it and if the oil pressure comes down again I'll have to figure out why it's aerating.

Cannot believe changing the oil fixed the problem. Hope this helps someone.

 

[OCDTech]

@Aleckb Would you please let us know if you have ANY issues with the change to 20w-50, A concern will be with the MDS system throwing a code, not working as expected, also the VVT system codes etc. You may have no issues, but if you do please let us know.

Glad you have your issue with the pressure fixed.

 

[crackerjack1957]

So, I cleaned the throttle body with some cleaner and removed the PVC valve, cleaned w/ same cleaner I used on the TB and reinstalled it (It didn't seem worn but I am going to replace it anyways). Started up and NO change in oil pressure, still about 35-40 at startup. I then changed the oil/filter using 20-50W full synthetic and when I started it I had 58 psi and when warm it went to 35. Only thing I noticed was the oil seemed foamy and lighter in color than normal. I bought the truck and the dealer had already done an oil change on it so not sure what they used but going to keep an eye on it and if the oil pressure comes down again I'll have to figure out why it's aerating.

Cannot believe changing the oil fixed the problem. Hope this helps someone.

They probably used 5w-20.........the norm for dealerships.

 

[Aleckb]

@Aleckb Would you please let us know if you have ANY issues with the change to 20w-50, A concern will be with the MDS system throwing a code, not working as expected, also the VVT system codes etc. You may have no issues, but if you do please let us know.

Glad you have your issue with the pressure fixed.

Excuse the temporary dyslexia, I did use 5w-20 in it, not 20-50w and as a mentioned oil pressure is great.

However, now having other problems.

Ugh...where to begin. I'll re-post this back to the main forum too but in a nutshell...

Before I noticed the oil pressure problem there was some ticking on the drivers side, thought it was lifter so I used a stethoscope but didn't hear anything so I assumed it was an exhaust manifold bolt and but then got wrapped up in the oil pressure problem.

Then, during all the work on the oil pressure problems I noticed the ticking stopped...which is obviously not a bolt, since they don't fix themselves, so I assumed I have valve train problems, which undoubtedly will come back.

So, in summary, now, oil pressure fixed...no codes but now getting a 219a code which is an air/fuel inbalance in bank 1. Idle is perfect but truck misfires starting around when shifting into 2-3 gear and at highways speeds. Gas mileage went to crap, barely 12 (was 16-18) now and really bad performance.

Truck was due for a spark plug change at 90K so I did that, put OEMs back in and also changed PCV valve. Plugs didn't look that bad when I pulled them so I didn't think that was the problem but changed them anyways to be sure.


Cleared code but it came back, same thing 219a.

I would be expecting the worse because I did hear the ticking before (It hasn't come back and still sounds quiet with the stethoscope) but was has me stumped is when I put it in tow/haul I can get the problem to stop. If I am just cruising with no load the the misfiring stops and 16-18 mpg again on the highway, however, accelerate, go up an incline and the misfire starts again. Once the load stops the misfire goes away and the mileage goes back up again.

I know there are other things a 219a could be, fuel injector, ignition coils, O2 sensor, valve train...but the tow/haul thing has me thinking it's not the valve train and it's something to do with the MDS?

Which, btw, I do not have the 'ECO' light, not there and can't enable it. Doesn't work and do not have the option to enable it so I don't know if the MDS is coming on or not.

Anyone have any ideas?

 

[OCDTech]

In all my reading most on here agree tow/haul does not disable mds but manually selecting a gear with the buttons does. In all of my years a miss under load or slight load is usually ignition related. No code for a particular cylinder?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Aleckb]

No, nothing for a particular cylinder and yeah, me too, missing under a load is ignition related. In my past experience a bad coil pack will throw a code but I'm not getting that.