NY Andrew
Senior Member
Here’s my results on a brand new battery with 850 CCA and 140 aH.
48 hour sitting period:
Start: 12.7v
Finish: 12.38v
11.7 Starter Voltage
14.3 Engine ON Voltage
13.8 Max Load Voltage (as much high demand electronics/features on as possible)
Parasitic Drain Test:
0.06 mA battery hooked up
0.05 mA negative terminal disconnected.
At a 0.06 mA draw 24/7, with my new battery, means I SHOULD be able to let it sit for 97 days before the battery is COMPLETELY dead at 0% (10.5v), BUT vehicles need at least 12v....or so I thought. Based off my security system, with my old battery I frequently dipped to 11.7v (30% charge) and it always started fine.. So what’s the deal here?
All fuses with vehicle off had 0 mV (some would bounce 0 mV to 2 mV but back to 0 mV).
NOW, what I did find on the hidden radio fuse was a steady 3.6 mV draw!!!
See my thing is, a 100% charged battery is 12.7v. So if I’m just chilling at a steady 12.3v (as of the lowest I’ve seen so far on this new battery), then that’s only 70% charged...will this start to diminish my brand new battery?
I don’t see how or why it’s dropping to that battery level so quick. The parasitic test didn’t even change values with the radio fuse removed (which was the ONLY fuse with steady current passing through), so if the radio fuse is the culprit, wouldn’t it have changed the mA test readings? Only thing hooked up to radio is possibly front camera module device (which I have a front camera fuse which gives the camera fuse, but maybe that’s making the current stay steady, not sure yet), and POSSIBLY the aftermarket severity system, not sure if they tapped in to that or ignition wires directly, oh and maybe the iPhone charge cable?
Can anyone check their radio fuse? Curious what mV reading your having after the vehicle is locked and sitting for 10-15 minutes. But again, not sure if this is the culprit.
What’s your parasitic draw tradings?
I even disconnected all the jumpers on the negative and positive terminals and didn’t see any reading drop. I do have a battery maintainer, but I even disconnected that from both battery terminal posts and saw no reading change their either and that’s actually the only thing I’ve hardwired to battery. Everything else goes through fuses or directly through vehicle cables/wires.
My security system previously before new battery would alert me of 11.7v after 5 days of vehicle sitting. That’s what prompted this whole fiasco. But then learned that the security system voltage can be 1.95v LOWER than ACTUAL voltage. But still, if it’s 11.9v actual, then that’s only 40% charged, and I’m sure hurting the longevity of the cells.
Unless CCA is the key and I can just **** and go on with my life not losing anymore sleep over this issue because CCA will resurrect the battery for years to come.
48 hour sitting period:
Start: 12.7v
Finish: 12.38v
11.7 Starter Voltage
14.3 Engine ON Voltage
13.8 Max Load Voltage (as much high demand electronics/features on as possible)
Parasitic Drain Test:
0.06 mA battery hooked up
0.05 mA negative terminal disconnected.
At a 0.06 mA draw 24/7, with my new battery, means I SHOULD be able to let it sit for 97 days before the battery is COMPLETELY dead at 0% (10.5v), BUT vehicles need at least 12v....or so I thought. Based off my security system, with my old battery I frequently dipped to 11.7v (30% charge) and it always started fine.. So what’s the deal here?
All fuses with vehicle off had 0 mV (some would bounce 0 mV to 2 mV but back to 0 mV).
NOW, what I did find on the hidden radio fuse was a steady 3.6 mV draw!!!
See my thing is, a 100% charged battery is 12.7v. So if I’m just chilling at a steady 12.3v (as of the lowest I’ve seen so far on this new battery), then that’s only 70% charged...will this start to diminish my brand new battery?
I don’t see how or why it’s dropping to that battery level so quick. The parasitic test didn’t even change values with the radio fuse removed (which was the ONLY fuse with steady current passing through), so if the radio fuse is the culprit, wouldn’t it have changed the mA test readings? Only thing hooked up to radio is possibly front camera module device (which I have a front camera fuse which gives the camera fuse, but maybe that’s making the current stay steady, not sure yet), and POSSIBLY the aftermarket severity system, not sure if they tapped in to that or ignition wires directly, oh and maybe the iPhone charge cable?
Can anyone check their radio fuse? Curious what mV reading your having after the vehicle is locked and sitting for 10-15 minutes. But again, not sure if this is the culprit.
What’s your parasitic draw tradings?
I even disconnected all the jumpers on the negative and positive terminals and didn’t see any reading drop. I do have a battery maintainer, but I even disconnected that from both battery terminal posts and saw no reading change their either and that’s actually the only thing I’ve hardwired to battery. Everything else goes through fuses or directly through vehicle cables/wires.
My security system previously before new battery would alert me of 11.7v after 5 days of vehicle sitting. That’s what prompted this whole fiasco. But then learned that the security system voltage can be 1.95v LOWER than ACTUAL voltage. But still, if it’s 11.9v actual, then that’s only 40% charged, and I’m sure hurting the longevity of the cells.
Unless CCA is the key and I can just **** and go on with my life not losing anymore sleep over this issue because CCA will resurrect the battery for years to come.
