Parking light delete

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bigolayne

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Wowwww, what a great job. Now I have to go back and redo all my stuff. By the way, I made a custom dust cover to allow for the bigger LED bulbs. I got the opt7's and they actually fit right in the Spyders opening; the other led I posted I had to cut the aluminum with my Dremel for it to fit. They both fit now but the opt7 is smaller and has a fan while the other does not.
I went to Home Depot and hit the plumbing section and found a 2" to 1&1/2" that fit perfectly over the Spyder opening. I then cut down the 1&1/2 to make it shorter and then put some sealant around the wire opening and now there is a water and dust proof cover. I'll post those tomorrow. I'm beat
 
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Limeybastard

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Good job Bigolayne. Be sure to post pics when completed.

Just finished and was putting the grill back on and guess what?

I dropped a center bolt and cannot locate it. That is my pet hate , losing a screw inside engine bay. Hopefully won't do any damage. I tried magnet to no avail.

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Limeybastard

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Parking light delete doesn't activate the error message. Message must have been stored before the invertor was soldered to the parking harness wire.

Now I'm not 100% certain if the error message was generated when I was testing headlight halos with turn bulb out or if it was generated when I simply cut parking light wire . either way all working error free .

7b7f26219f08d94c5f507044b0397d48.jpg


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Limeybastard

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Yes it does
Just an observation, while adjusting the beam pattern I noticed the right headlight has a much harsher brighter hot spot against the white wall. That headlight in front of the h1 beam lens also feels warmer than the left.

Any ideas ? Hopefully I won't be a one of those with a melted projector I read about.

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bigolayne

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No I haven't seen that my friend. You will be fine. I have felt the front of the headlights and it was warm but so were my factory ones.


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adurm

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The projector lenses are probably not an exact cut compared to each other. My previous car's factory halogen projectors did that when I dropped an HID kit in. Full on retrofit fixed it. Could be the bulbs. I would swap the bulbs from side to side to see if that makes a difference.

If you are still unhappy, you could get a pair of black series lenses (I think) from retrofitsource for spyder lights. They should drop right in (as soon as you open the headlights).
 
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Limeybastard

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The projector lenses are probably not an exact cut compared to each other. My previous car's factory halogen projectors did that when I dropped an HID kit in. Full on retrofit fixed it. Could be the bulbs. I would swap the bulbs from side to side to see if that makes a difference.

If you are still unhappy, you could get a pair of black series lenses (I think) from retrofitsource for spyder lights. They should drop right in (as soon as you open the headlights).
Yeah I'm in agreement. I feel these projectors regardless of the heat output require changing.

The cut off looks how can I put it mediocre. Wasn't expecting anything else to be honest.

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Limeybastard

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adurm

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Probably
 
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Limeybastard

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Well you got me thinking, might as well do LED in turns right:)

Question, the majority of the LEDs on ebay are switchback. Now since I have disabled the parking light signal wire on mine, it wont matter if I use one of these will it? I dont think it will, meaning the light just wont be lit up white in parking light mode and will work as a amber turn only.
 

adurm

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If you don't plan on using the parking lights at all, I would get dedicated amber leds. The switchback design has roughly half of its leds dedicated to each color. So the amber won't be as bright as a 3157 dedicated bulb.

I think on a full amber bulb the parking light part is just lower voltage than the turns but uses the same number of leds.

I really couldn't say how a "dual filament" led would react without that third wire going to it. But it probably would work out if you got the incandescent bulb to do what you want.
 

bigolayne

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I have multiple sets of the decoders and got them from eBay as well as Amazon. When you order your lights make sure they are canbus and if they say won't give error code. With that said, they may not work but try the light by itself first and if it doesn't work then throw in the decoder.
When I did my reverse lights I got an error message(lights from Enlight). I sent an email and they sent me a more powerful set, for free, and that did it.
Point being that some of the bulbs are strong enough and have the ability to not have codes. Get some good quality bulbs and not the cheap ones.
I know you Limey so I know that you want the real deal and with the most effect.


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Limeybastard

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Well all sorted. The projector cut off is a joke on these headlights as is the light output almost as bad as the stock quads. Both sides light cut off slants upwards on each far right and left hand side almost a 20 degree upward angle.

Basically either the projectors are not fitted into the light housing straight or and I believe this to be the case were designed off of the vehicle meaning the output cut off looks straight when light assembly is sitting on a table but not when headlight is fitted / bolted to truck. Design shortcoming. I read about this also on hid planet forums from a few other spyder headlight owners.

Anyways, will be translating some Morimoto mini H1 inside them in the new year.


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adurm

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Limey, I got a pair of projectors out of the tyc projectors if you want them. I never hooked them up to see about the cutoff line. It has two wires in a pigtail that probably move the shield for high beam. I think they are 3 inch lenses.

I can't fit them in the fog so they're yours if you pay for shipping.
 
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