Pennzoil Ultra Platinum vs Platinum 5W-20 Oil Analysis

[PE7EY]

For anyone interested, I found this Pennzoil oil analysis video which shows the additives that make up the difference between PP and PUP.

After seeing the analysis, which would you choose for overall engine health, Hemi tick, etc? Can any experts or oil aficionados chime in if the additives in PUP is worth the upgrade?

Pennzoil Ultra Platinum vs Platinum 5W-20 Oil Analysis
(Uploaded by YouTube account ImpalaLFX13 / Dec 03, 2020)

 

[Burla]

One uoa should never be used as proof of something. PUP is just known for the lowest wear numbers that I know of. PUP is still cheap at 25 bucks 5 quart at amazon. I have bought PUP many times, never bought platinum.

Hemi tick is a separate discussion, you should look up lubegard and redline hemi tick threads, completely different animal. Absent hemi tick, you can make an argument PUP is the best choice for hemi's, 0w40 is great and 5w30 is more the decent choice for the 5.7. Maybe people in snow states can justify running dexos instead of fca spec'd oil.

 

[HEMIMANN]

For anyone interested, I found this Pennzoil oil analysis video which shows the additives that make up the difference between PP and PUP.

After seeing the analysis, which would you choose for overall engine health, Hemi tick, etc? Can any experts or oil aficionados chime in if the additives in PUP is worth the upgrade?

Pennzoil Ultra Platinum vs Platinum 5W-20 Oil Analysis
(Uploaded by YouTube account ImpalaLFX13 / Dec 03, 2020)

Hmmm..... Ultra = less calcium, more magnesium and moly. I'm not a chemist - what the heck does this mean?

Burla - PUP 0W-40 is not a great oil. It has low film strength relative to the others, not surprising considering the vis spread and no PAO, tho it's a GIII+. Red Line 5W-30 whips them all, Amsoil next, the PUP 5W-30.

 

[Gary2]

I used platinum in my 14 for a few years and still do, never a sound . My 17 I did not have the same results. Ticked with platinum especially after restarted about an hour or so after shut off . I added some of the ....I think it was Lubeguard and ran it a few more months which may of helped marginally. I have since switched to Redline (5-20 by mistake ) . Considerably less tick so I added another bottle of the Lubeguard and it is now very quiet. Next oil change I will probably go with RL 5-30 like I was supposed to last time. That won't be till about next November , about 3500 miles from last change. I used the synthetic Fram filter with the Platinum and the MOPAR SRT this last time .

 

[tidefan1967]

For anyone interested, I found this Pennzoil oil analysis video which shows the additives that make up the difference between PP and PUP.

After seeing the analysis, which would you choose for overall engine health, Hemi tick, etc? Can any experts or oil aficionados chime in if the additives in PUP is worth the upgrade?

Pennzoil Ultra Platinum vs Platinum 5W-20 Oil Analysis
(Uploaded by YouTube account ImpalaLFX13 / Dec 03, 2020)

I wouldn't use either unless I put something extra in there to boost the MOLY count by a significant amount(Lubeguard) and switched to a 5W30 in place of the too thin 5W20. I lost the cam and #5 lifter on my previous (2015)RAM at 32K miles. That truck had PYB for the first 10K and PUP from then on until it happened(MAX 6K miles interval) I would at least move up to a 5W30 regardless and look at say QSUD 5W30 instead.

 

[Wahrsuul]

I've been using PUP 5-30W in my '09 since I got it with just over 100K on it. it's just over 150K now and still going well. I usually buy 3 5qt bottles and a few Royal Purple filters at a time from Amazon. Not sure if it has a tick, it has a broken stud/exhaust leak so it's hard to hear past that.

 

[gixxer]

For anyone interested, I found this Pennzoil oil analysis video which shows the additives that make up the difference between PP and PUP.

After seeing the analysis, which would you choose for overall engine health, Hemi tick, etc? Can any experts or oil aficionados chime in if the additives in PUP is worth the upgrade?

Pennzoil Ultra Platinum vs Platinum 5W-20 Oil Analysis
(Uploaded by YouTube account ImpalaLFX13 / Dec 03, 2020)

What type of environment are you driving in? Hotter climate or cold? Long trip vs short?

Do you drive like a grandpa or like you stole it?

Do you idle a lot? How long do you want to go between oil changes?

Answering these questions will help determine what oil is best for your needs.

 

[chrisbh17]

I wouldn't use either unless I put something extra in there to boost the MOLY count by a significant amount(Lubeguard) and switched to a 5W30 in place of the too thin 5W20. I lost the cam and #5 lifter on my previous (2015)RAM at 32K miles. That truck had PYB for the first 10K and PUP from then on until it happened(MAX 6K miles interval) I would at least move up to a 5W30 regardless and look at say QSUD 5W30 instead.

Yep, I think 5W-30 is the most important "upgrade". I dont care what people say about the guys that engineered the engine to use 5W-20, because they didnt! The engine was spec-ed with 5W-30, then 5W-20 but 5w-30 was still approved, and now 5w-20 only.

Nothing in the engineering changed, just the writing in the manual. And if someone thinks Chrysler actually changed the tolerances on the engine....remember we are now on year 11 (at least!) of leaking third brake lights from the factory

Straight RedLine 5W-30 or QSUD 5W-30 + Biogard/LiquiMoly. I personally think the best Pennzoil option is the conventional + Biogard/Liquimoly, but if you are in extreme temperature areas, conventional might not be the best choice....Im in the northeast and with short commutes in the winter my oil temp barely reaches 200, still not even enough to boil off any moisture, so I go with full synth year-round and not Pennzoil because of how they like to play name games with their products.

 

[crackerjack1957]

No need to boil off moisture in oil, 180F plus will evaporate oil in water.
Short drives or engine runs is where moisture comes into play.

 

[chrisbh17]

No need to boil off moisture in oil, 180F plus will evaporate oil in water.
Short trips or engine runs is where moisture comes into play.

Yep, thats me....3.1 mile commute lol

Now I barely even drive the truck (permanent work from home, thanks a lot, Covid). But at least when I do its usually for 15 minutes+ so I am actually getting it up to temperature, even in the cold weather.

 

[Wild one]

Yep, I think 5W-30 is the most important "upgrade". I dont care what people say about the guys that engineered the engine to use 5W-20, because they didnt! The engine was spec-ed with 5W-30, then 5W-20 but 5w-30 was still approved, and now 5w-20 only.

Nothing in the engineering changed, just the writing in the manual. And if someone thinks Chrysler actually changed the tolerances on the engine....remember we are now on year 11 (at least!) of leaking third brake lights from the factory

Straight RedLine 5W-30 or QSUD 5W-30 + Biogard/LiquiMoly. I personally think the best Pennzoil option is the conventional + Biogard/Liquimoly, but if you are in extreme temperature areas, conventional might not be the best choice....Im in the northeast and with short commutes in the winter my oil temp barely reaches 200, still not even enough to boil off any moisture, so I go with full synth year-round and not Pennzoil because of how they like to play name games with their products.

Just to help you out Chris,lol.

 

[chrisbh17]

Just to help you out Chris,lol.

View attachment 233625

Yup! The printed manual for my 2017 (which was built in Sept 2016, so pretty early) does not have the note about 5W-30 being OK, so Im pretty sure thats when they removed it.

 

[Wild one]

Yup! The printed manual for my 2017 (which was built in Sept 2016, so pretty early) does not have the note about 5W-30 being OK, so Im pretty sure thats when they removed it.

Somewhere about there the epa started putting pressure on them,and as far as i've heard they forced FCA to pull that note.But that's going by what the grapevine has said,whether it was the epa who forced the issue,we'll probably never know though.

 

[chrisbh17]

Somewhere about there the epa started putting pressure on them,and as far as i've heard they forced FCA to pull that note.But that's going by what the grapevine has said,whether it was the epa who forced the issue,we'll probably never know though.

I always figured it was CAFE rules which are the EPA, but indirectly.

0.0000001 mpg gained per vehicle sold is a lot of mpg for FCA, but basically nothing for paying customers (and on top of that, potentially leads to high cost repair bills for a customer but FCA makes out on that too!)

 

[Burla]

Hmmm..... Ultra = less calcium, more magnesium and moly. I'm not a chemist - what the heck does this mean?

Burla - PUP 0W-40 is not a great oil. It has low film strength relative to the others, not surprising considering the vis spread and no PAO, tho it's a GIII+. Red Line 5W-30 whips them all, Amsoil next, the PUP 5W-30.

Mag is same thing as CA as far as acid protection, it just doesn't ash so you prevent lspi.

GtL is a clean base oil so it can take and absorb contaminants and super high moly, we know moly takes time to plate, and the only correct way to test film strength is with used oil and I'm not sure I have seen those. PUP 0w40 is in a class of it's own, it's not super class oil as in built right on the line of 5w30/0w40, but they compensate for that by adding a pull point of visc. I like most formulas when I see over 250ppm moly.

 

[HEMIMANN]

Mag is same thing as CA as far as acid protection, it just doesn't ash so you prevent lspi.

GtL is a clean base oil so it can take and absorb contaminants and super high moly, we know moly takes time to plate, and the only correct way to test film strength is with used oil and I'm not sure I have seen those. PUP 0w40 is in a class of it's own, it's not super class oil as in built right on the line of 5w30/0w40, but they compensate for that by adding a pull point of visc. I like most formulas when I see over 250ppm moly.

Burla, you had to have been, or are, a tribologist. I was in applications, know just enough about formulation to be dangerous. Hence, you are the residing expert here.

The film strength test data I have from 540ratblog is ****** oil. This is the spreadsheet the forum software won't allow posting. I posted the link to it some months back in WordPress. Wouldn't we need both ****** and used to assess initial film strength as well as end-of-service film strength? Anyway, 0W-40 is way down the list in ****** film strength. I don't plan to use it anymore. All of the 0W oils have much higher volatility specs, leading me to conclude they all use more VI improver additive on thin base stocks.

As we've discussed, it looks like optimal combos for hemi's in northern climates are 0W-30 winter and 5W-30 summer, both Red Line for polyol ester base oil that clings to metal surfaces. Plus a good chunk of moly dry film lubricant.

 

[chrisbh17]

Mag is same thing as CA as far as acid protection, it just doesn't ash so you prevent lspi.

GtL is a clean base oil so it can take and absorb contaminants and super high moly, we know moly takes time to plate, and the only correct way to test film strength is with used oil and I'm not sure I have seen those. PUP 0w40 is in a class of it's own, it's not super class oil as in built right on the line of 5w30/0w40, but they compensate for that by adding a pull point of visc. I like most formulas when I see over 250ppm moly.

I havent looked in a while, but it would be nice to know a correlation between oils with TriNuclear moly vs oils with "organic" moly. I think we assume that the Pennzoils use TriNuclear, based on the ppm of moly (80-ish IIRC). When we see 250+ we assume organic.

But....is 80ppm of tri-nuke good enough? I know one of the advantages is supposed to be that they can get away with less concentration for the same effect, but when I hear my engine running louder on stuff with TriNuke vs stuff with organic (or an organic additive added after the fact), it makes me wonder if tri-nuke is only good in some cases whereas organic is better in others.

 

[HEMIMANN]

Here come the tribologists! lol

Gotta love it!

 

[Burla]

Burla, you had to have been, or are, a tribologist. I was in applications, know just enough about formulation to be dangerous. Hence, you are the residing expert here.

The film strength test data I have from 540ratblog is ****** oil. This is the spreadsheet the forum software won't allow posting. I posted the link to it some months back in WordPress. Wouldn't we need both ****** and used to assess initial film strength as well as end-of-service film strength? Anyway, 0W-40 is way down the list in ****** film strength. I don't plan to use it anymore. All of the 0W oils have much higher volatility specs, leading me to conclude they all use more VI improver additive on thin base stocks.

As we've discussed, it looks like optimal combos for hemi's in northern climates are 0W-30 winter and 5W-30 summer, both Red Line for polyol ester base oil that clings to metal surfaces. Plus a good chunk of moly dry film lubricant.

If you test a ****** oil, you are testing the vii's not the base oil, and the additives have not had what they need to function, so moly level had no time to plate. I honestly think one of the best additives someone could invent, is a couple ounces of vii's, and just toss it is twice during the interval, but I have never heard anyone do it.

So 20 and 30 weights have limits on additives to get api cert, 40 weights don't have those same limits, thus why the modern group of 0w40's were born, most of them in the 12's visc, basically a 30 weight w/o regulations. the sacrifice is usually they carry more vii's, so since manu's want api oils it is a fine line to make it the way you want it. So I prefer going out of api since they have lost all credibility with stupid ****. non api > api imo, at least for hemi's.

 

[chrisbh17]

Here come the tribologists! lol

Gotta love it!

hehe, I dont claim to be one but I did stay at a Holiday Inn last night.

Its just something Ive always wondered....reading a ton of stuff on BITOG about it, but there was never a real answer other than "you dont need as much to get the same effect". My own personal experiences seem to differ.