Pins for hitch connections (Bulletproof, maybe others)

[tron67j]

Just a note about a finding that another thread came to using pins to connect hitch hardware to the trucks. The discussion was related to the bulletproof drop hitch system, and the use of the locking pins. One of the posters indicated that the pin had sheared on them and further looking into the website the statement is on there that locking pins are not usable for weight distribution hitch connectors. I did reach out to customer service and they indicated that the locking pins are not made for that use. it's not a huge problem with bulletproof because they provide the necessary regular pins that are strong enough for the use, but I totally missed it in the instruction page. Again, just a safety note for everybody, this could potentially be the same issue with other system weight distribution connections so just be safe.

 

[corneileous]

Are you talking about just the regular hitch pins that secures the hitch to the receiver? After I watched a view videos of how easily those locking hitch pins can be busted off simply by sliding a small piece of pipe over the locking part leaving your hitch for easy theft, I just use the largest grade 8 bolt I could find that fits in the hole that’s long enough to where I could double-nut the other end and tighten the two nuts up against each other. I figured since grade 8 bolts are used in places where you don’t want that bolt to break would be more than plenty used as a hitch pin.


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[farmallboy]

Are you talking about just the regular hitch pins that secures the hitch to the receiver? After I watched a view videos of how easily those locking hitch pins can be busted off simply by sliding a small piece of pipe over the locking part leaving your hitch for easy theft, I just use the largest grade 8 bolt I could find that fits in the hole that’s long enough to where I could double-nut the other end and tighten the two nuts up against each other. I figured since grade 8 bolts are used in places where you don’t want that bolt to break would be more than plenty used as a hitch pin.


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Now this is a brilliant idea.

 

[corneileous]

Now this is a brilliant idea.

It’s kind of a ***** to get to the bolt with just a couple of crescent wrenches so you’re pretty much just better off having the right size end wrench and socket to get it off and plus, ain’t no piece of pipe gonna break that bolt because believe it or not, what makes those typical locking hitch pins so vulnerable and weak is the machined groove they cut on the end of them for the lock piece to lock onto the end of the pin. The pins with the 90° lock assembly is better but those pins that have the parallel locks that has the hole on one end and the keyhole on the other, those are the ones to truly avoid especially if you have a $100+ invested in your hitch.

I’m thinking about replacing one of the regular hex nuts with a lock nut just to make it harder and take even longer to defeat.


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[canadiankodiak700]

Do some research as to why a hardend bolt such as a grade 5 or 8 is one of the worst ways to secure a drawbar in a reciever. They have amazing holding power, but thier shear strenth is the weakness. They are designed to hold a load vertically, length of the bolt with the threads. A hard slide sideways like the drawbar moving during an emergency stop can snap a hard bolt causing the hitch to seperate, where a soft pin will bend and bind in the hole, holding the hitch together. Those locking pins are usually case hardened to make it difficult to cut, but that's the exact reason you can snap one off with a quick hard hit.

Reese, curt, drawtite, and uhaul all have info on this exact topic.

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[corneileous]

Do some research as to why a hardend bolt such as a grade 5 or 8 is one of the worst ways to secure a drawbar in a reciever. They have amazing holding power, but thier shear strenth is the weakness. They are designed to hold a load vertically, length of the bolt with the threads. A hard slide sideways like the drawbar moving during an emergency stop can snap a hard bolt causing the hitch to seperate, where a soft pin will bend and bind in the hole, holding the hitch together. Those locking pins are usually case hardened to make it difficult to cut, but that's the exact reason you can snap one off with a quick hard hit.

Reese, curt, drawtite, and uhaul all have info on this exact topic.

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Not necessarily trying to argue but how is a grade 5 or 8 bolt different from a grade 5 or 8 hitch pin for a tractor?

But if it’s any consolation, I did get a bolt that’s only threaded on the end. My hitch’s shank is solid being that it’s aluminum and the threads and the shoulder of the bolt start pretty much right in the middle of the space that’s between the wall of the receiver tube and the hitch itself so that I’m other words, the part of the bolt that’s not threaded is actually what’s pinning the hitch to the tube.

I dunno, if I ever was to pull anything heavy, I’d probably use my pin that came with the hitch but for using my little utility trailer with my mower on it, that should be plenty strong for that. Besides, as I mentioned, I really only resorted to using the bolt idea to act more as a theft deterrent than anything since I leave my expensive aluminum drop hitch in all throughout the spring, summer and fall for hauling my mower around and you can’t break this bolt like you can a locking hitch pin.


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[canadiankodiak700]

Actually it's funny you mention the tractor pins, because in one of the articals, (i want to say the reese one, but not sure) i remember them talking about those. Saying that a off road equipment doesn't travel at high speeds so the likelihood of a fast emergency stop that can snap hardened steel due to its brittliness just isn't there. They're were talking more about typical highway/road use.
I'm at work and don't have the time and resources to search like I would if i was home on my computer. I would try to find one or all of those, i know they were old articles, age there were screen shots of them either on my old ford or jeep forum.

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[tron67j]

For the original question, the reference was to the WDH connection adapter piece that connects to the adjustable hitch, that is the only use for the locking pins that is advised against. It does say fully rated at the max for the hitch itself. I am assuming it is due to the way the forces are applied to the WDH adapter.

 

[tron67j]

Regarding using bolts, I wonder if the strength is reduced by the slight reduction in cross sectional diameter due to the thread cut into the metal. Since the overall diameter of the bolt measured from uncut edge to uncut edge is the same as a pin, bit the "valley" of the thread reduces structural diameter, could that result in potential play and reduced shear strength?

 

[JayLeonard]

Regarding using bolts, I wonder if the strength is reduced by the slight reduction in cross sectional diameter due to the thread cut into the metal. Since the overall diameter of the bolt measured from uncut edge to uncut edge is the same as a pin, bit the "valley" of the thread reduces structural diameter, could that result in potential play and reduced shear strength?

Then one could simply get a bolt with a longer shank. But bolts are not "cut" they are formed (rolled) and that increases the material strength.

 

[corneileous]

Then one could simply get a bolt with a longer shank. But bolts are not "cut" they are formed (rolled) and that increases the material strength.

That’s what I did. I bought a 5/8ths grade 8 bolt that was about 5 inches long so that the threads didn’t start until about an 1/8th of an inch before the bolt pokes out the other side of the receiver tube so that nothing but unthreaded bolt was in the pin hole of the receiver shank.


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[Riccochet]

Ran a Masterlock 5/8" pin lock for years with my WDH and 8000# trailer. It's now being used on my Gladiator to tow my boat. Bought a Elemaker 5/8" pin lock to use on my new truck with WDH. So far so good. It's rated up to 20,000# towing.

I would not run a grade 8 bolt. Lateral shear strength is not that high, nor is that was they are designed for.

 

[corneileous]

I would not run a grade 8 bolt. Lateral shear strength is not that high, nor is that was they are designed for.

So then what’s the difference between either a grade 5 or grade 8 bolt, a grade 5 or 8 tractor pin and a regular hitch pin?? Kinda seems to me that all these companies who make towing accessories are just saying what they’re saying just to get you to buy more of their products. Of course Reese or Curt isn’t going to recommend less than 5 bucks worth of a bolt, a couple of washers and one or two nuts when they can sell you a locking pin for up to three times more that can easily be busted off.

A bolt may not be necessarily designed to be used as a hitch pin but pretty much the tractor pin you buy at tractors supply, is. Sure, it may not see high-speeds but there sure is a lot of force being applied to that pin from the tractor and the implement it’s hitched to.



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[Marine Les]

I drilled the hole in the pin so that I can use a standard padlock to keep my insert/ball from theft. Been using this for over 20 years.

 

[BlackSheepRebel]

lots of options, i just like the convenience and high quality of the bolt lock in this combo:

http://www.cjcoffroad.com/Factor-55-HitchLink-Bolt-Lock-Combo-p/hitchlinkcombo.htm

of courwse you don't need the package, i see those at the local line-x store and other places with accessories. nice not having another key to carry around.

to me, "locking" anything is just a layer of security that keeps the lazy thieves away. nothing will prevent determined thieves, but might as well mitigate what risk you can...cost/benefit dictates you decide depending on what you keep bolted to your hitch.

 

[Joseph Godvin]

Are you talking about just the regular hitch pins that secures the hitch to the receiver? After I watched a view videos of how easily those locking hitch pins can be busted off simply by sliding a small piece of pipe over the locking part leaving your hitch for easy theft, I just use the largest grade 8 bolt I could find that fits in the hole that’s long enough to where I could double-nut the other end and tighten the two nuts up against each other. I figured since grade 8 bolts are used in places where you don’t want that bolt to break would be more than plenty used as a hitch pin.


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[Joseph Godvin]

Grade 8 Bolts are Prone to shear, designed for Pull strength, Grade 5 bolts are stronger for shear and weaker on Pull. I built Dump trucks and installed Hoists on truck frames in the 70's. We used Grade 8 bolts on Vertical placements and Grade 5 to secure horizontal ( side mounts brackets to frame rails ) Just my input if this makes sense ??

 

[corneileous]

Grade 8 Bolts are Prone to shear, designed for Pull strength, Grade 5 bolts are stronger for shear and weaker on Pull. I built Dump trucks and installed Hoists on truck frames in the 70's. We used Grade 8 bolts on Vertical placements and Grade 5 to secure horizontal ( side mounts brackets to frame rails ) Just my input if this makes sense ??

So then what grade are your standard hitch pins? And also, what grade, and what difference are tractor pins from hitch pins? Somebody said whatever’s hitched to a tractor won’t be going as fast as it would behind a pick up but still, whatever it is your tractor is pulling still puts a lot of force on that pin.

So if I was to find an outdoor grade, grade 5 bolt, I’ll be OK? I really don’t have a problem against actual hitch pins, I just want something that locks but I don’t want a typical locking hitch pin because of how entirely easy they are to defeat. Might as well just use the old-school pin with a cotter pin on the end of it if you’re going to use one of those.


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