Planning a shop, do's and don'ts?

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bigred74

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So I've been wanting to do this since I bought the house 2 years ago. House came with a 3acre plot of land that is mostly wooded but allows for as big of out building as I would ever need. I've been getting quotes on 42x64 pole buildings with 14 ft walls. My property is subdivided into 3 separate lots. I have the back which is 2 acres of just woods, the house sits on 1/3 an acre, and also own a 3rd lot that is 2/3 acre. Fortunately the previous owner bought the 3rd lot to prevent someone from building a house right next to him. My house is set back a ways from the road so there is a 66' easement that runs back to my house for my driveway that I share with one other person at the top of the drive. I'm posting a pic of 2 of my properties for layout purposes. I know forsure I cant build within 10ft of my easement because that is where my utilities run to my house. Zoning is saying i have to be 27 ft from my easement tho which would set me way further back into my property than i wanna go so gotta figure out a way to fight that and get it changed. It is technically not my land but I have to care for it so it's a strange situation. Wanted to get your guys thoughts on what to do or not to do as I move forward with this project?

Pic still shows it wooded but I have cut down many of the trees, just gotta pay to have all the roots excavated still.

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DodgeDude99

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If it’s an easement running thru your property, it’s your property still, the easement just grants rights for someone else to use or access it. I.E. utility companies would be a utility easement, if your neighbor uses it to access their property, it’s an ingress/egress easement. If it says it was dedicated to the city, then it isn’t your property.

You stated it was 66’, that’s a typical width of a right of way for a road. Them stating you have to be 27’ back sounds like a building setback line.

You can always ask for a variance.

What does a barn that size cost & do they pour a slab for it as well?

Where in this ****** state are you located?
 
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bigred74

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Yea it was granted to the city, believe that's why they made it 66' wide. It's in the contract tho that owners take care of all road maintenance. Few coworkers have easements like you stated where it's still their property so they know they have to maintain it but they thought it was strange that in my case its owned by the city yet I have to foot the bill for road maintenance, snow removal, etc.

But you are correct, the 10' line I put on there is the utility easement and 27' is the set back line. They did tell me I could file for a variance just wasnt sure how how much goes into it, how long it takes,or how much it is.

Quotes have been 40-95k for just the shell of the building. No floor. Would have to pay for that later. Quote for floor is 16k. Morton was obviously the most expensive, they are very proud of their buildings lol. Removal of stumps and laying a 12" pad I'm looking at 8k so far which I wanna get done this year and maybe build next year. Just want to get location figured out so I can give the go ahead on that. I'm in oregon, il
 

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Yea it was granted to the city, believe that's why they made it 66' wide. It's in the contract tho that owners take care of all road maintenance. Few coworkers have easements like you stated where it's still their property so they know they have to maintain it but they thought it was strange that in my case its owned by the city yet I have to foot the bill for road maintenance, snow removal, etc.

But you are correct, the 10' line I put on there is the utility easement and 27' is the set back line. They did tell me I could file for a variance just wasnt sure how how much goes into it, how long it takes,or how much it is.

Quotes have been 40-95k for just the shell of the building. No floor. Would have to pay for that later. Quote for floor is 16k. Morton was obviously the most expensive, they are very proud of their buildings lol. Removal of stumps and laying a 12" pad I'm looking at 8k so far which I wanna get done this year and maybe build next year. Just want to get location figured out so I can give the go ahead on that. I'm in oregon, il
The floors are getting really expensive. Contractors charge by the square foot and its a lot. Do the rebar yourself and find a cement finisher to get it done cheaper. Concrete isn't that expensive by the yard delivered.
 

DodgeDude99

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Yep he quoted me 40k. I've been watching all his videos and most likely will go with him
That dude has an awesome set of tools. That Skil saw for timbers is nuts.

Those YouTube guys also make a **** ton of money as well. I watch some kid name “Alex Rebuilds”(buys wrecks from Copart & fixes them). Someone broke down how much he makes by subscribers and views, it was around $130k....from posting videos on YouTube.
 

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Biggest do is think ahead and get electrical, security wiring and air lines in for everything you can think of. Better now then later.
 
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bigred74

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That dude has an awesome set of tools. That Skil saw for timbers is nuts.

Those YouTube guys also make a **** ton of money as well. I watch some kid name “Alex Rebuilds”(buys wrecks from Copart & fixes them). Someone broke down how much he makes by subscribers and views, it was around $130k....from posting videos on YouTube.
Yea its nuts what you can make on YouTube. I've actually walked thru some of the buildings he has put up, they are just as good in person.

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PaulTGarrett

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EVERYTHING on my new shop so far is $35k. That includes $16k for the building, $13k for the concrete (went $7k over initial budget, will explain below), and $4k for clearing trees and stumps from the back yard.

My shop is 35' wide by 30' deep with 12' walls, two 10x10' roll up doors, and two 36" access doors. When we started pouring concrete, the surveyor found my back yard was almost 18" lower in one corner so, in order to keep water out of the shop, I had the footer doubled to 24". The slab is 4" thick across the span, with rebar in the footer, mesh across the floor. All of the extra forming, rebar, and concrete added almost $8k to that part of the project but I am OK with it because I know that hurricane water levels I have seen in the past will (should) not get up into my shop.

I have pics in another thread if you want to take a peek.
 
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bigred74

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EVERYTHING on my new shop so far is $35k. That includes $16k for the building, $13k for the concrete (went $7k over initial budget, will explain below), and $4k for clearing trees and stumps from the back yard.

My shop is 35' wide by 30' deep with 12' walls, two 10x10' roll up doors, and two 36" access doors. When we started pouring concrete, the surveyor found my back yard was almost 18" lower in one corner so, in order to keep water out of the shop, I had the footer doubled to 24". The slab is 4" thick across the span, with rebar in the footer, mesh across the floor. All of the extra forming, rebar, and concrete added almost $8k to that part of the project but I am OK with it because I know that hurricane water levels I have seen in the past will (should) not get up into my shop.

I have pics in another thread if you want to take a peek.
Thanks for the post man. Got a link to that thread?
 
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bigred74

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So dont think I have a before pic (stupid me lol) but here are some quick pics of what I have so far. Already have 20+ trees dropped and still have more to take down plus will have to have all the roots excavated of course

Also have a print out from the zoning board. Plot 1 is where I'm putting shop

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DodgeDude99

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It’s lot 1 not plot 1
That’s a Plat of Subdivision

Are the property corners in?
They’re showing circles and dots on the plat at the lot corners. There should be a note as to what they actually are.
Surveyors typically use rebar or rigid conduit.
 
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bigred74

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Sorry yes lot 1. I found the 4 stakes on the map, also found one where the black circle is. Could not find the two I circled in red, I'm sure they were removed along time ago cause of where they are located(in front of my house and near or under my driveway)

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DodgeDude99

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We also use 1/4”x1.5” nails, the have a big head on them, some say PK or Mag on them.

Looks like there might be crap in the way or water or something, the northeast/southeast corner of 1 & 2 is on an offset. Same goes for the northwest corner of the road.
 
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bigred74

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Not really sure why they were offset, nothing in the way of marking corners other than brush which the other ones are in brush as well so took me awhile to find them lol
 

PaulTGarrett

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Sorry yes lot 1. I found the 4 stakes on the map, also found one where the black circle is. Could not find the two I circled in red, I'm sure they were removed along time ago cause of where they are located(in front of my house and near or under my driveway)

Look for the "pins" with a metal detector. When I had my property surveyed, they could only locate one of the corner pins. It was next to the water meter, inside the box, hammered down to the level of the incoming water line. They did their survey starting from there. Later in the day, one of their other crew came by with a metal detector and found two of the other pins, both hammered down about 3" below grade. If you know roughly where your corners are supposed to be, that may give you a place to start looking for your missing pins.

If nothing else, if/when you get your property surveyed, have them set new pins in the missing locations. Least expensive case, just have them put a marker on your property corners, go get a foot or so of 1" rebar and pound it down next to the marker. Pound it down a few inches below grade so it stays there until you come looking for it later.
 

DodgeDude99

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^^^dont not do what he suggested.

Markers are to designate right if ways, not property corners. We put lathe with pink ribbon, a “red top” (a 1”x4” that’s painted white with red at the top) or a wire flag at the corner. If the corners fall in the brush, surveyors typically tie ribbon around the pins/pipes and to a branch overheard as well.

Your town or county may require a spot survey after the slab is poured, the surveyor will have to look for the corners to do the surveyor.
 
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