Silver Tex
Member
- Joined
- Nov 12, 2013
- Posts
- 62
- Reaction score
- 7
- Ram Year
- 1999
- Engine
- 5.9
Thanks QC,
What I ended up doing was spraying some penetrating oil on the old bolts and ran them back in to clean up the threads, then left them set for a day or 2 that way.
The manifold is back on and with the exception of the hole where the stud broke off, I was able to thread the new bolts in by hand almost all the way down.
Completed work
Water pump replaced.
Timing set replaced, with added tensioner. I really like the tensioner Merc, I can see how it can improve the stability of the timing. It may advance or retard a little but the chain will remain tight. It was definitely time for a new chain.
New vibration dampener - the rubber was coming out of the one we removed.
New 195 T-stat - no other mods intended so I have a new 180 on the bench.
New pickup stator in distributor.
New oil sending unit.
Full tune up - plugs, wires, cap, rotor, air filter, PVC valve
Cleaned up the TB real well, was a mess. (Thanks DD for pointing out the IAD clean? Back of the TB)
Re-torqued the oil pan gasket bolts, the valve cover bolts & the tranny pan bolts. (Will swap the tranny fluid/filter/etc later this spring)
Remaining work - planned for today.
New cat/precat O2 sensor.
Replace ECT sensor - I don't like how the connector on the sensor moves around and it'll be a bugger to change once back together.
Reinstall A/C & Alt
New serpentine belt
Install new radiator & hoses.
New coolant
New oil/filter
Replace the pump on the windshield washer - I broke the "tit" off the hose during removal, just twisted.
I think we'll have about $850-$900 in parts once done, having to consider the high jacked prices we had to pay for some of the local stuff.
Reset the PCM - I've seen at least 2 ways to do this; neg. term. off, hold key in start position for 30 secs.; remove pos. term and touch both together. Any thoughts.
Hopefully she starts and runs well.
Time working on this with my son....priceless!
Here are couple of things we found helpful and may not apply to all plenum replacements.
To protect the lifter galley, we cut up a contractor grade garbage back and tucked it in and up under the block casting. Then we cut a card board pattern and fit it in over the plastic. We literally go zero contaminants in this area. You can see it in the pics.
If you are pulling the water pump during this repair, use a wet vac to suck out coolant from the area's that could pollute the lifter galley. We went in through the water pump holes and sucked the coolant down before we pull the manifold. Again, we got zero contaminants in lifter galley.
We did not find it necessary to remove the cap and wires to do this work. We had already replaced them prior, though we did do the wire routing suggested in the TSB.
Get your list together and order from Rock Auto or other online. The parts we ended up buying locally were easily 40% higher and in some cases double even after shopping around.
More pics to come.
Thanks for everyone's input!
Scott
What I ended up doing was spraying some penetrating oil on the old bolts and ran them back in to clean up the threads, then left them set for a day or 2 that way.
The manifold is back on and with the exception of the hole where the stud broke off, I was able to thread the new bolts in by hand almost all the way down.
Completed work
Water pump replaced.
Timing set replaced, with added tensioner. I really like the tensioner Merc, I can see how it can improve the stability of the timing. It may advance or retard a little but the chain will remain tight. It was definitely time for a new chain.
New vibration dampener - the rubber was coming out of the one we removed.
New 195 T-stat - no other mods intended so I have a new 180 on the bench.
New pickup stator in distributor.
New oil sending unit.
Full tune up - plugs, wires, cap, rotor, air filter, PVC valve
Cleaned up the TB real well, was a mess. (Thanks DD for pointing out the IAD clean? Back of the TB)
Re-torqued the oil pan gasket bolts, the valve cover bolts & the tranny pan bolts. (Will swap the tranny fluid/filter/etc later this spring)
Remaining work - planned for today.
New cat/precat O2 sensor.
Replace ECT sensor - I don't like how the connector on the sensor moves around and it'll be a bugger to change once back together.
Reinstall A/C & Alt
New serpentine belt
Install new radiator & hoses.
New coolant
New oil/filter
Replace the pump on the windshield washer - I broke the "tit" off the hose during removal, just twisted.
I think we'll have about $850-$900 in parts once done, having to consider the high jacked prices we had to pay for some of the local stuff.
Reset the PCM - I've seen at least 2 ways to do this; neg. term. off, hold key in start position for 30 secs.; remove pos. term and touch both together. Any thoughts.
Hopefully she starts and runs well.
Time working on this with my son....priceless!
Here are couple of things we found helpful and may not apply to all plenum replacements.
To protect the lifter galley, we cut up a contractor grade garbage back and tucked it in and up under the block casting. Then we cut a card board pattern and fit it in over the plastic. We literally go zero contaminants in this area. You can see it in the pics.
If you are pulling the water pump during this repair, use a wet vac to suck out coolant from the area's that could pollute the lifter galley. We went in through the water pump holes and sucked the coolant down before we pull the manifold. Again, we got zero contaminants in lifter galley.
We did not find it necessary to remove the cap and wires to do this work. We had already replaced them prior, though we did do the wire routing suggested in the TSB.
Get your list together and order from Rock Auto or other online. The parts we ended up buying locally were easily 40% higher and in some cases double even after shopping around.
More pics to come.
Thanks for everyone's input!
Scott
