PPE pan 8HP75

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Salty Pylot

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I know, I know… not serviceable. I tow in hilly conditions and that fluid gets hot. Additionally, ZF recommends for heavy usage to service transmission and I plan to keep the truck around.
I’m a little early at almost 50k (I’ve got the time currently) and swapping to PPE for the transmission pan. It’s also a 4x4 so it has the exhaust crossing right underneath the pan. I’ve looked quite a bit and can’t find a 5th gen 4x4 getting the pan changed. See plenty of 8HP70s with exhaust crossmember being done. Seems that a few folks with 8HP70s on this forum have had to raise the transmission ann inch or so. Also have seen a video or two where the fella just slides the pan back and on. However, PPE recommends unbolting and dropping exhaust on their website. However instructions say remove crossmember. Not sure if they are referring to exhaust or what. Anyone have experience either way on the 75 transmission? Exact same pan but wondering if it’s the same underneath. If I do lift transmission, where is better to lift from? Back of transmission or use transfer case? A little reluctant to unbolt cats from headers…. Not nervous about oil changes but want to make sure I have bases covered before I start cracking loose bolts.

Also plan to do Caulk04’s gizmo while I’ve got fluid drained.
 
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Salty Pylot

Salty Pylot

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Did PPE transmission pan yesterday on my 21 1500 with the 8HP75. Turns out the transmission does need to go up and inch or so. Removed transfer case skid plate to make more room. Raising transmission did three things helpful. First gave better access to pan drain plug. Gave better access to rear most pan bolt. Finally allowed easy removal of old pan and gave plenty of room to reinstall new pan. Torqued all 12 to 10 foot lbs and bolted transmission mount back into place. I was a little surprised how far I had to raise rear of truck to get transmission level per the refill instructions. Did almost 8 quarts of Mopar 8/9 ATF. No leaks.
 

TotallyHucked

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Good to know. I've got a 4th gen with the 70 but plan to do this later this year. I'm the same way, I'm very leery of unbolting the exhaust, that almost always results in a broken bolt/stud. Hopefully lifting the trans will work on mine too.
 
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Salty Pylot

Salty Pylot

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Spoke too soon. Very slight leak. Double checked all bolts for torque. Guessing one of the sleeves from the old pan didn’t seat. If it’s still doing it in a couple of weeks, will loosen and retorque all 12. Of problem still persists, will drain and drop. Fun times.
 

Gmantwo

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When I raise the rear of my transmission in the rear of the engine also goes up, which raises that exhaust crossmember. So I don’t see how you guys are raising the transmission without raising that exhaust crossover.
 

Wild one

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When I raise the rear of my transmission in the rear of the engine also goes up, which raises that exhaust crossmember. So I don’t see how you guys are raising the transmission without raising that exhaust crossover.
Some guys have had to loosen off the exhaust mid pipe. Run the truck till it's hot and spray the studs with your favorite flavour of penetrating fluid ( not WD40) while the studs are hot,then hit the nuts with a impact gun and 6 point socket on the shortest extension you can get away with
 

Gmantwo

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Well the exhaust bolts worked. Haven’t done the run & refill yet, but it only took just over 3 quarts to run out the fill hole
 

Gmantwo

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Some guys have had to loosen off the exhaust mid pipe. Run the truck till it's hot and spray the studs with your favorite flavour of penetrating fluid ( not WD40) while the studs are hot,then hit the nuts with a impact gun and 6 point socket on the shortest extension you can get away with
I use nothing but Kroil to break stuff loose, best there is. I loosened the cats from the manifold
 

Wild one

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I use nothing but Kroil to break stuff loose, best there is. I loosened the cats from the manifold
Research ATF and Acetone mixed as a penetrating fluid,it beats Kroll and pretty well every other penetrating fluid currently available.

In 2007 "Machinist's Workshop Mag. tm" published information on various penetrating oils including subjective tests of many of the popular penetrants. The following list is the results of their test with the control being the torque in foot pounds required to remove a nut from a bolt in a "scientifically rusted" environment.
Penetrant ------------------------------------------ Average Load
None ------------------------------------------------ 516 Ft. Lbs.
WD-40 ---------------------------------------------- 238 Ft. Lbs.
PB Blaster ----------------------------------------- 214 Ft. Lbs.
Liquid Wrench ------------------------------------ 127 Ft. Lbs.
Kano Kroil ------------------------------------------ 106 Ft. Lbs.
ATF*/Acetone Mix --------------------------------- 53 Ft. Lbs.

ATF= Automatic Transmission Fluid

The ATF/Acetone mix was a "home brewed" mix of 50/50 automatic transmission fluid and acetone which proved to be better than any of the commercial brands of penetrant on a removing a nut rusted onto a bolt. No matter which penetrant is used they all require a period of time to wick down into the threads, but because acetone has an extremely low dynamic viscosity, it's thin, it gets into the threads quicker than the other products with the ATF following shortly behind for lubrication.
 
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Wild one

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Well the exhaust bolts worked. Haven’t done the run & refill yet, but it only took just over 3 quarts to run out the fill hole
3 quarts doesn't sound quite right,you should of got more then that into the transmission with a pan drop and refill.Did you jack the truck up till the pan rail was level. Read the very first highlighted paragraph.These are the ZF instructions that come with a "brand new" truck 8 speed when bought from the dealer. Cost me a few bucks to get these instructions,they threw the transmission in for free,after i bought the instructions,lol
 

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Gmantwo

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Research ATF and Acetone mixed as a penetrating fluid,it beats Kroll and pretty well every other penetrating fluid currently available.

In 2007 "Machinist's Workshop Mag. tm" published information on various penetrating oils including subjective tests of many of the popular penetrants. The following list is the results of their test with the control being the torque in foot pounds required to remove a nut from a bolt in a "scientifically rusted" environment.
Penetrant ------------------------------------------ Average Load
None ------------------------------------------------ 516 Ft. Lbs.
WD-40 ---------------------------------------------- 238 Ft. Lbs.
PB Blaster ----------------------------------------- 214 Ft. Lbs.
Liquid Wrench ------------------------------------ 127 Ft. Lbs.
Kano Kroil ------------------------------------------ 106 Ft. Lbs.
ATF*/Acetone Mix --------------------------------- 53 Ft. Lbs.

ATF= Automatic Transmission Fluid

The ATF/Acetone mix was a "home brewed" mix of 50/50 automatic transmission fluid and acetone which proved to be better than any of the commercial brands of penetrant on a removing a nut rusted onto a bolt. No matter which penetrant is used they all require a period of time to wick down into the threads, but because acetone has an extremely low dynamic viscosity, it's thin, it gets into the threads quicker than the other products with the ATF following shortly behind for lubrication.
They’re wrong, lol
 

Gmantwo

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3 quarts doesn't sound quite right,you should of got more then that into the transmission with a pan drop and refill.Did you jack the truck up till the pan rail was level. Read the very first highlighted paragraph.These are the ZF instructions that come with a "brand new" truck 8 speed when bought from the dealer. Cost me a few bucks to get these instructions,they threw the transmission in for free,after i bought the instructions,lol
Yes, it’s still jacked up
 

Gmantwo

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3 quarts doesn't sound quite right,you should of got more then that into the transmission with a pan drop and refill.Did you jack the truck up till the pan rail was level. Read the very first highlighted paragraph.These are the ZF instructions that come with a "brand new" truck 8 speed when bought from the dealer. Cost me a few bucks to get these instructions,they threw the transmission in for free,after i bought the instructions,lol
 

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Gmantwo

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Poured it into jugs and it’s just over a gallon. Doesn’t count the small amount I lost putty in Caulks part. We’ll see after I run it & refill
 

Gmantwo

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Poured it into jugs and it’s just over a gallon. Doesn’t count the small amount I lost putty in Caulks part. We’ll see after I run it & refill
 

Gmantwo

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After going through the green sheet fill process I got 5-1/2 quarts in
 

Gmantwo

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Y’all should warn somebody that when it over fills and runs out the drain hole, it’s going to run right into the hot exhaust and then right onto your arm!
 

Wild one

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They’re wrong, lol
If you've never tried it,you really shouldn't comment,lol. On exhaust studs etc, ATF/Acetone in a spray bottle is tough to beat :waytogo:Save your old fluid and mix it with acetone and put it into spray bottles,for a cheap penetrating fluid
 
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Wild one

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Y’all should warn somebody that when it over fills and runs out the drain hole, it’s going to run right into the hot exhaust and then right onto your arm!
I've never really had that problem,maybe a few dribbles out,but not enough to really cause me any issues.But then again after doing a yearly drain and fill on my 8 speed since replacing it several years ago,i've kind of got it down now,lol.
 
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