Preferred/Best drivetrain fluids

[Southbay]

I have a new to me 2013 1500, has about 77K on it and I want to do all of the drivetrain fluids, even though they say they are good to 100K. Wanted to see what people have found works best in the diffs, xfer case and trans..

I know the Trans will need ATF+4....is there any particular brand of ATF+4 that people have found works better than others? I've used the Castrol ATF+4 in the past. Regular old diff gear oil good for the diffs? ATF+4 for the xfer case or do guys find something else works better in it?

Thanks.

 

[kurek]

Brace yourself, lubricant choices are a religious topic so the best way to know less about the topic than you did when you started is to ask about lubricants on a forum.

Well, here's my 2 cents anyway.

For the RFE transmission (I assume that's what you have since you're talking ATF+4 ) I'd suggest just using the Mopar stuff. Why? It's about the same price overall as any other brand and it's an absolute no-brainer, no guessing, it's the stuff the manufacturer specifies. But any synthetic ATF+4 from any name brand is probably just as good.

I recently serviced my RFE and used the Mopar fluid which was about $50 for a pack of six quarts from some seller on ebay.

For the transfer case there are two different transfer cases but pre-2017 the 44-44 and 44-45 use the same 68089195AA fluid. Again I'd just get the Mopar stuff. Same reason the price is not significantly different from alternatives and it's a sure thing.

For the axles I like Mobil 1 gear oil for one reason in particular: it's about the least stinky gear oil I know of. It also is already limited slip compatible without any additional additive.

Don't forget to service your coolant system as well if it's original. Once corrosion and scale start developing seals go pretty soon after.

 

[HEMIMANN]

Concur with Mopar ATF+4 for RFE transmissions. Decent Group III synthetic base oil for moderate length oil change intervals...if you get rid of the oil cooler thermostat.
Premium oil is Red Line ATF+C.

My transfer case is BW44-46, the old time chain drive but with electronic clutch. This comes filled with ATF+4, despite Ram trying to claim it needs Mopar Magic Mouse Milk. It doesn't. It's the same damn transfer case Borg Warner's always made.
The BW44-44 is clutch packs, so needs correct recommended oil.
Differentials are differentials. If you have LS rear, almost any synthetic 75W-90 works. 80W-140 only needed for heavy load and high temp.
If no LS, you can still use an LS gear oil. It's just wasted additive and money.
Otherwise, use Mobil Delvac 75W-90. It does not have LS additive. I have letter from Mobil for proof. I use this in both axles.

 

[Daw14]

Don’t forget your brake fluid !

 

[Southbay]

Thanks for the responses. I guess I should've clarified some things earlier. Yes I have the 6spd trans, so need ATF+4 for an RFE. Not entirely sure which xfer case I have. My truck is an Express, doesn't have Auto 4WD....only 2WD, 4Hi and 4Lo. I just assumed it used the same ATF+4 as the trans did, how do I know which xfer case is in there?. I didn't think anything came with a standard open diff anymore, I thought they were all LS rear diffs now, guess not.

Brake fluid will be done also, doing brakes soon and will flush fluid when brakes are done.

The coolant in another whole can of worms and another thread I have on here....I am locked in the "what the hell kind of coolant do I have" thing. What's in the truck now is pink...no mistaking it's pink. That would lead you to think it's HOAT, but apparently 2013 was the ones year that OAT was pink, prior to be changed to purple, so it could be pink OAT. 2013 was alos the year they switched to OAT and some vehicles went out with HOAT before the full change over to OAT....so I could still have pink HOAT....or I could have pink OAT in it. The dealer ran my VIN and said it shows I have OAT, but the dealer has never seen or heard of pink OAT and had no answer for me as to why my coolant was pink when the VIN specs OAT. One of the 30+yr techs at the dealer said no doubt was I had in mine was HOAT as he's never ever seen pink OAT in anything....but also had never heard about the change over possibilities that I listed above that took place in 2013......so basically, no idea what the hell is in my truck. So when I do get around to changing it, I'll do a full flush and use Peak Global Life to be safe.

 

[kurek]

You have the 44-45 transfer case. The Mopar fluid for pre-2017 is supposedly repackaged Shell Spirax A389 if we're to believe random internet people. The 44-45 still uses clutches but since they're largely on-or-off there isn't much likelihood of chatter if you use the wrong fluid. You can probably use any Dexron fluid in place of it but who likes a probably? For as infrequent as the service is I would have a hard time coming up with a reason to use something other than the OE stuff, they're proud of it but we're talking "tens of dollars" not thousands.

On the coolant I think you're safe if you can fully flush the old stuff out before switching. Distilled water is cheap. When I bought new coolant for my '15 I had the dealer look it up by VIN and just bought that, but it's still in bottles waiting for the weather to get a little warmer before I do the job so I have no idea if the color matches.

 

[Jeepwalker]

I typically use Mopar fluids. If you go to the part's dept of a small-town family run dealership, they'll often sell ya +4 out of their big barrel for a pretty good price. Or they have me. My small dealer here has a stack of cleaned & dried milk jugs in the corner (employees bring them in), or you can bring in your own. Previously the dealer was 1/2 price of what I would have paid for the cheapest +4 at Walmart. But I see +4 has come down quite a bit in price the last several yrs.

The main benefit of using Mopar for me is it's easy to remember what brand is in various truck components.

I typically change the fluid/filter and fill 2qts more than normal. Then (before starting) unhook the radiator cooling line (Clear hose going into a 5G bucket) and have a helper start the vehicle as I watch the hose (go from dark to clear fluid). Takes about 12 or 14 seconds to drain the old fluid out of the torque converter. It comes out FAST so I need a helper with their head screwed on straight. Sometimes I'll shut it down and add 2 more qts 1/2 way through the process and restart depending on how much has come out. Then continue right away till it runs 'clear'. This method I get ALL the old fluid out. Then top off the fluid. That's what I do. I'm not recommending to anyone else.

 

[Jeepwalker]

DAW14's suggestion was greatt. Replace the brake fluid as it absorbs moisture. It's probably the single biggest thing a guy can do to prevent downstream expensive brake problems. And it's easy/inexpensive to do.

I've seen brake from the 80's where the vehicle had periodic brake fluid changes. The original brake calipers were super-rusty and scaly on the outside, but inside they looked like the day they were installed. Other vehicles where brake fluid changes weren't done, the inside of the calipers were a rusty mess.

 

[HEMIMANN]

You have the 44-45 transfer case. The Mopar fluid for pre-2017 is supposedly repackaged Shell Spirax A389 if we're to believe random internet people. The 44-45 still uses clutches but since they're largely on-or-off there isn't much likelihood of chatter if you use the wrong fluid. You can probably use any Dexron fluid in place of it but who likes a probably? For as infrequent as the service is I would have a hard time coming up with a reason to use something other than the OE stuff, they're proud of it but we're talking "tens of dollars" not thousands.

On the coolant I think you're safe if you can fully flush the old stuff out before switching. Distilled water is cheap. When I bought new coolant for my '15 I had the dealer look it up by VIN and just bought that, but it's still in bottles waiting for the weather to get a little warmer before I do the job so I have no idea if the color matches.

Gotta do my coolant this spring also (5 yrs enough for me). You gonna flush or drain & fill? I hear only one bank block drain plug is accessible.

 

[Bigskyroadglide]

I'm redline 5w30 engine oil, Mopar SRT oil filter, on the 6 speed trans I'm redline c+, & c+ in transfer case. Gear oil redline 75w90 front 75w140 rear.

8k oci engine oil and filter, 50 on diffs, drain and fill at 20k on transmission and transfer case. Filter change at 40k on transmission.

On the 8 speed transmission in my other truck, I'm ATF valvoline maxlife synthetic. Engine and diffs same as above.

 

[Lyle Longboat]

I was waiting for Redline to be mentioned. I didn’t want to be “that guy” lol
I use all Redline fluids, except coolant, Mopar.

 

[Jeepwalker]

I forgot to mention I use Walmart synthetic gear lube in my diffs and manual trannys. The reason is, it works great, priced right, and ya can get it at about any Walmart (it sells out a lot around here so you might need to go back). I've used it for a good 25 or so years and never had any problems. And I've run vehicles up to 300k+ miles (with regular changes). I've used Valvoline gear lube too.

I don't think it matters what brand you use ..as long as it's a major brand, the right weight for your use/area, etc. If you do a LOT of HD towing then I'd probably go to a higher-spec fluid.

 

[HEMIMANN]

I was waiting for Redline to be mentioned. I didn’t want to be “that guy” lol
I use all Redline fluids, except coolant, Mopar.

Beats the Mobil 1 cult over @ BITOG.

 

[MRFREEZE57]

I was waiting for Redline to be mentioned. I didn’t want to be “that guy” lol
I use all Redline fluids, except coolant, Mopar.

I used Redline for all except the engine oil. I have the 44-44 TC, used the Redline C+ atf which is less than half the cost of the mopar fluid and works flawlessly. For the rear diff, the Redline says ok for limited slip and has worked great for me.

 

[HEMIMANN]

I used Redline for all except the engine oil. I have the 44-44 TC, used the Redline C+ atf which is less than half the cost of the mopar fluid and works flawlessly. For the rear diff, the Redline says ok for limited slip and has worked great for me.

Where do you get Red Line ATF+C for less than $3.80 per quart? I'd like in on that deal, please!

Mopar ATF+4 is available for $7.60 per quart in 5 liter (app. 5 quart) jugs at Summit Racing.

Mopar Replacement 68218058AC Mopar Replacement Automatic Transmission Fluid | Summit Racing

Free Shipping - Mopar Replacement Automatic Transmission Fluid with qualifying orders of $109. Shop Transmission Fluid at Summit Racing.

www.summitracing.com

 

[Lyle Longboat]

Up here in Canada, I was on a wild goose hunt for the C+ Trans fluid at a reasonable price, ended up buying 12 quarts from JBPowercentre in Alberta as it was the cheapest I found in Canada.

 

[weldguy]

Can't believe an Amsoil dealer hasn't testified yet.

 

[Richard Kim]

I'm redline 5w30 engine oil, Mopar SRT oil filter, on the 6 speed trans I'm redline c+, & c+ in transfer case. Gear oil redline 75w90 front 75w140 rear.

8k oci engine oil and filter, 50 on diffs, drain and fill at 20k on transmission and transfer case. Filter change at 40k on transmission.

On the 8 speed transmission in my other truck, I'm ATF valvoline maxlife synthetic. Engine and diffs same as above.

I just changed out my rear diff (Redline out / Redline in); After 60K miles, the old fluid looked pretty good (I have a 2500); very impressed with the performance. The smell as not bad at all (as diff fluids go). No noise from my diffs (front filled with Redline as well).

 

[WadXpress]

I just 6.4 swapped my truck and did all the fluids. I went with red line for the motor oil and oem fluids for everything else. Diffs, Tcase, 8 speed trans, coolant, brake fluid

 

[Gero]

Factory Mopar fluid for the transfer case.
Redline for front and rear diffs.
Will be using valvoline maxlife for the 8hp70.
Pup5w30 engine with wix filter.
Mopar coolant and Mopar brake fluid via 60ml syringe.