Project Exhaust & Headers w/ snapped bolts in block

MartyZ

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2014
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2500 5.7l Hemi
So i had picked up the American Racing Headers Long Tube Kit for my 2014 5.7
I finally had some time to start it so I parked the old girl and disconnected the negative from the battery.
The rest is a mess of injuries, panic attacks, swearing, and a few beers.

I documented what I could to help in anyone else attempting this task themselves.
All things considered it was fairly simple.

First step was put it on stands and remove the tires, wheel well liners, air filter box, and a few wire harness clips.

Next I removed the dipstick tube. I removed the 2 fasteners holding it in and then clipped some vice grips to the lower bracket and tapped it out.

With access to the exhaust headers I sprayed everything down with a liberal amount of PB Blaster and let it soak. Carefully removing the bolts from the motor with a 10mm 6pt socket.
(on a few of them the surface of the bolt head had deteriorated and the socket stripped the head off, I used a hand-held cut off wheel to nip the heads off)
On one particular bolt, it became one with the manifold and refused to allow the manifold to slide off. I had to go texas chainsaw massacre on it to get it off.
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With the old headers off finally i was able to address the busted bolts. I had 2 snapped off (Rear 2) and 2 of them with the heads cut off. I used a small pipe wrench to remove the ones sticking out of the block and chose the weld method for the flush breaks.

In the picture below, The bolt on the left is an unbroken one. The one next to it was attached to my heat shield only and bouncing around. The stubby ones next to it are what was retrieved from the block.
Below the picture is the steps to weld them out.

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ENSURE YOUR NEGATIVE CABLE IS DISCONNECTED FROM THE BATTERY FIRST!!!

Then...

Step 1: Clean the surface well and use a wire brush to remove any rust on the surface of the busted stud.
Step 2: Connect your welders ground Cable to a good place on the block near where you are welding.
Step 3: I used a voltage setting of 3 and a wire speed setting of 25 on my Hobart Mig welder (120v)
Step 4: Hold a washer (M8 worked well) over the stud with a pair of pliers.
Step 5: Weld to the stud until it starts to build up a little and then work it around the inside of the washer until it is filled in.
Step 6: Let cool and place a nut centered on the washer, repeat the same weld tactic on the nut and allow to cool.
Step 7: Once cooled, spray with more PB Blaster and slowly turn it left, then right about an 1/8th of a turn untill it feels good enough to continue counterclockwise.
(If your nut breaks off repeat steps 4 -7 again)
Step 8: Once all brokem studs are extracted disconnect your welder and clean the area of any debris or spatter.
Congratulations, you just saved yourself a lot of money.


After the block was cleaned up i installed the Remflex Gaskets and ARP bolts.
The ARH Headers have slotted lowers, this assisted in mounting them myself, i loosely started a couple on the bottom and was able to maneuver the header from behind the front axel into position and use a free hand to start one of the top bolts. I got them all threaded in and snug (not tight) and then went on to the rest of the system.
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In the above pictures you can see the O2 sensor port, i purchased extensions off amazon to alleviate fouling. They are not shown but I recommend them.
I also needed 2 15' wire extensions for 2 of the sensors. The ARH kit relocates them from OEM positions.
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A custom EGR plate was needed to block the port on the ARH Kit as my truck didnt have an EGR.
I bought a gasket to fit at oreilly and bolted it on without any issues.
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In the next pictures, I removed the old exhaust system. Sawzall, cut off wheel and a small sledge are all helpful. Also safety glasses.

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The new setup next to the old, I needed a custom section made to go from the 3 1/2 inch outlet of the ARH kit to go to the Borla that had a 3" inlet. It cost $42 at a local shop by me.

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After a dry fit I marked where the hanger needed to go in the new setup. I reused one of the hanger brackets from the OEM setup because forgot to purchase a new one.
I tacked the custom extension to the ARH kit and welded the hanger bracket in location.

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I left the OEM resonator and over-axle section, Used 3" Clamps U Clamps to hold together the connections at my muffler.

Finished the assembly and was able to start it up that night. Sounds awesome with the cold start, at normal idle it is only slightly louder than stock. No drone noticed and no codes thrown.
I will include some more pictures after she gets a bath, I'm just happy to have it on the road again.

Originally was supposed to be a 4-5 day project by myself, ended up needing tools I didn't have and a buddy to help me hold the washer while I welded.
All in all it took 14 days of after-work time and waiting on parts I hadn't ordered.
 

hemihustlin

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Great write up! Would you consider yourself in the salt belt?
 

James OBrien

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Awesome write up! Thanks for sharing, love the washer/bolt method of welding out your broken studs!
 

MartyZ

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Lake Orion, MI
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2500 5.7l Hemi
Great write up! Would you consider yourself in the salt belt?
Yeah, Michigan is definitely a Rust Belt State. haha

Awesome write up! Thanks for sharing, love the washer/bolt method of welding out your broken studs!
Thank you! I used the washer first because I'm not a very experienced welder. Figured it would give me some room for mistakes.
 

MartyZ

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217
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Location
Lake Orion, MI
Ram Year
2014
Engine
2500 5.7l Hemi
Update: I ended up removing the OEM resonator from the tail pipe. I cut it off flush with the resonator and bolted on a new tip. Gave it a little deeper rumble at Idle more of a loud Brap during acceleration. I Love it, the wife hates it. :cool:
 
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