Pulsar installation issues

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Dark Knight 500

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Why does **** like this always happen to me[emoji1751]‍[emoji3603]
I went to install my edge pulsar module today. Removed connector closest to the fender first and was successful, the other not so much. Lifted the red lock up to remove, but the connector will not release. PCM has never been touched so the connectors are as virgin as they come. Any ideas what I can do, and has anyone else ran in to this?

2017 Ram 1500 Hemi


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HDHNTER

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No worries, the clip isn't broken. There is a plastic bar (red if I remember correctly) on each side of the connect that mesh w/ the teeth on the release handle & slide up & down, locking the cable connector onto the pcm housing. You'll need to remove the small black OEM zip ties (use toenail clippers to snip easily w/out cutting wires). Don't replace these zip ties when finished w/ install, they're unnecessary & put tension on the connector housing. Now going off of memory here so directions may not be perfect but w/ a flashlight you'll see how the connector works. They hook on to pivot tabs & pop out of place easily which allowed the previously mentioned red lock bars to slip out of position. The result being, when you tried to release w/ the red lever, the cams that mesh had excess clearance allowing them to slip over each other which leaves the locking bars still locked in place. The fix, use a dental pick, the pointy end of a test light.... something thin & pointy to move the bars into the full release location (which is up). Use the connector that is properly releasing as a reference for proper lock tab position. Then reattach the connector body w/ lever back onto pivot points at bottom & the top will clip into place. Lever will now release connector. Do not force, when bars are properly lined up, it will release easily.... if there is resistance, you don't have the lock tabs in the right position. I know this reads a bit convoluted but using this info will make it easy to see what you need to do. Again, don't try & force or pry connector off, that's how you run into a real problem. If you have further issues, send a PM my way & I'll hook you up w/ my phone number to walk you through it. Once you fix this you'll know how to always do so..... be sure to help others out when you see them post as you have. The first impulse is to try & force it off, take your time & look at how it works, easy fix when you do.
 
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Dark Knight 500

Dark Knight 500

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No worries, the clip isn't broken. There is a plastic bar (red if I remember correctly) on each side of the connect that mesh w/ the teeth on the release handle & slide up & down, locking the cable connector onto the pcm housing. You'll need to remove the small black OEM zip ties (use toenail clippers to snip easily w/out cutting wires). Don't replace these zip ties when finished w/ install, they're unnecessary & put tension on the connector housing. Now going off of memory here so directions may not be perfect but w/ a flashlight you'll see how the connector works. They hook on to pivot tabs & pop out of place easily which allowed the previously mentioned red lock bars to slip out of position. The result being, when you tried to release w/ the red lever, the cams that mesh had excess clearance allowing them to slip over each other which leaves the locking bars still locked in place. The fix, use a dental pick, the pointy end of a test light.... something thin & pointy to move the bars into the full release location (which is up). Use the connector that is properly releasing as a reference for proper lock tab position. Then reattach the connector body w/ lever back onto pivot points at bottom & the top will clip into place. Lever will now release connector. Do not force, when bars are properly lined up, it will release easily.... if there is resistance, you don't have the lock tabs in the right position. I know this reads a bit convoluted but using this info will make it easy to see what you need to do. Again, don't try & force or pry connector off, that's how you run into a real problem. If you have further issues, send a PM my way & I'll hook you up w/ my phone number to walk you through it. Once you fix this you'll know how to always do so..... be sure to help others out when you see them post as you have. The first impulse is to try & force it off, take your time & look at how it works, easy fix when you do.

Sounds like you’re speaking from experience. I’ll try this when I have another free day.
This sounds exactly like what the one connector is doing, the teeth on the red lock are not meshing with the locks.


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HDHNTER

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Sounds like you’re speaking from experience. I’ll try this when I have another free day.
This sounds exactly like what the one connector is doing, the teeth on the red lock are not meshing with the locks.


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Yeah, happened to me when I pulled my Pulsar off for the recall flash at the dealership. Stressful situation for sure. Should you need to ever replace the lever housing assembly due to the teeth being rounded off (soft plastic), they're very cheap & available online. Can't remember the price but less than 5 per... I bought extras to have just in case they're ever needed. The release lever & the red lock bars I mentioned have to be "timed" right for the bars to fully clear the aligning hold down tabs they thread through, for lack of a better word. You'll see what I'm talking about w/ a flashlight. The zip ties the factory used as a back-up means of securing the wiring harness to the connector release lever housing assembly does't allow for any wiggle room & when the harness is moved while attempting to get the connector to unseat from the PCM, the lever assembly will flex upward & pop off of the pivot tabs it "hooks" onto, that is what creates the excess space between the lever cam & sliding lock-bars allowing them to slip past each other.

Good luck!
 
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wespentecost

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Why does **** like this always happen to me[emoji1751]‍[emoji3603]
I went to install my edge pulsar module today. Removed connector closest to the fender first and was successful, the other not so much. Lifted the red lock up to remove, but the connector will not release. PCM has never been touched so the connectors are as virgin as they come. Any ideas what I can do, and has anyone else ran in to this?

2017 Ram 1500 Hemi


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I sprayed mine lightly with wd40...still broke, I found them online and replaced both of them easily. Good luck with your pulsar, I had two and neither worked

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TonyMM

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Do you have a link where to purchase them?
 

meedom

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Yeah, happened to me when I pulled my Pulsar off for the recall flash at the dealership. Stressful situation for sure. Should you need to ever replace the lever housing assembly due to the teeth being rounded off (soft plastic), they're very cheap & available online. Can't remember the price but less than 5 per... I bought extras to have just in case they're ever needed. The release lever & the red lock bars I mentioned have to be "timed" right for the bars to fully clear the aligning hold down tabs they thread through, for lack of a better word. You'll see what I'm talking about w/ a flashlight. The zip ties the factory used as a back-up means of securing the wiring harness to the connector release lever housing assembly does't allow for any wiggle room & when the harness is moved while attempting to get the connector to unseat from the PCM, the lever assembly will flex upward & pop off of the pivot tabs it "hooks" onto, that is what creates the excess space between the lever cam & sliding lock-bars allowing them to slip past each other.

Good luck!
So would it then be a good idea to snip those factory zip ties off before even attempting to use the red levers??
 

HDHNTER

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So would it then be a good idea to snip those factory zip ties off before even attempting to use the red levers??


Yes
 

JR9633

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Yeah, happened to me when I pulled my Pulsar off for the recall flash at the dealership. Stressful situation for sure. Should you need to ever replace the lever housing assembly due to the teeth being rounded off (soft plastic), they're very cheap & available online. Can't remember the price but less than 5 per... I bought extras to have just in case they're ever needed. The release lever & the red lock bars I mentioned have to be "timed" right for the bars to fully clear the aligning hold down tabs they thread through, for lack of a better word. You'll see what I'm talking about w/ a flashlight. The zip ties the factory used as a back-up means of securing the wiring harness to the connector release lever housing assembly does't allow for any wiggle room & when the harness is moved while attempting to get the connector to unseat from the PCM, the lever assembly will flex upward & pop off of the pivot tabs it "hooks" onto, that is what creates the excess space between the lever cam & sliding lock-bars allowing them to slip past each other.

Good luck!

Your reply has been very helpful as I'm having the same exact problem. However, even after I sync up the release lever and the lock bars, the lever and the lock bars maybe only move about an eighth or quarter of an inch, before it binds up and the lever housing assembly flexes upward and pops off just as you have described. With the housing assembly off, I can take a small screw driver and move the lock bar on either side up and down but only slightly like I described. I'm wondering if that's all the movement they're supposed to have, but I find this unlikely because in all of the videos I've seen the red release lever travels it's full range of motion before releasing the connector. I'm guessing the lock bars are seized up? Any thoughts?
 

HDHNTER

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Your reply has been very helpful as I'm having the same exact problem. However, even after I sync up the release lever and the lock bars, the lever and the lock bars maybe only move about an eighth or quarter of an inch, before it binds up and the lever housing assembly flexes upward and pops off just as you have described. With the housing assembly off, I can take a small screw driver and move the lock bar on either side up and down but only slightly like I described. I'm wondering if that's all the movement they're supposed to have, but I find this unlikely because in all of the videos I've seen the red release lever travels it's full range of motion before releasing the connector. I'm guessing the lock bars are seized up? Any thoughts?

I'm thinking you don't have the levers synched to the bars in the correct position. Not having a working side for comparison leaves you guessing. With levers in mid release position the bars will be slightly elevated above the connector housing if I remember correctly. Trying to locate the pictures I took when I was dealing w/ the issue. They were maybe an 1/8" exposed. I just went out to take a pic of bar location when levers are closed w/ bars full seated. Hoping this helps you out. The bars do not travel far at all between locked & unlocked. You have to get the sync in just the right cam position.

Edit to add: Just re-read your post & caught the part about the lock-bars not moving freely w/ the housing off. Not sure what to suggest as I did not have that issue & w/out seeing it for myself, it's hard to say how to proceed. Could you take an up-close picture & post it? Are all lock bars doing the same? A bit hesitant to go out & take my own connectors off to refresh my memory on the layout under the housing & how far the bars are supposed to move as I would need to pull my CAI if I run into an issue. Not a big deal in good weather but chilly, dark & raining here. Hoping you got this sorted out on your own after posting.
31e0cb482f4ea2d6ce868941f69fda83.jpg
 
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JR9633

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I'm thinking you don't have the levers synched to the bars in the correct position. Not having a working side for comparison leaves you guessing. With levers in mid release position the bars will be slightly elevated above the connector housing if I remember correctly. Trying to locate the pictures I took when I was dealing w/ the issue. They were maybe an 1/8" exposed. I just went out to take a pic of bar location when levers are closed w/ bars full seated. Hoping this helps you out. The bars do not travel far at all between locked & unlocked. You have to get the sync in just the right cam position.

Edit to add: Just re-read your post & caught the part about the lock-bars not moving freely w/ the housing off. Not sure what to suggest as I did not have that issue & w/out seeing it for myself, it's hard to say how to proceed. Could you take an up-close picture & post it? Are all lock bars doing the same? A bit hesitant to go out & take my own connectors off to refresh my memory on the layout under the housing & how far the bars are supposed to move as I would need to pull my CAI if I run into an issue. Not a big deal in good weather but chilly, dark & raining here. Hoping you got this sorted out on your own after posting.
31e0cb482f4ea2d6ce868941f69fda83.jpg

Thanks for the reply. I did end up getting it today. The lock bars did need to move downward more. I hit the lock bars with some silicon lube and took a small flat head screw driver and got in one of the notches and just kept cycling the lock bars back and forth, applying pressure straight downward and it moved little by little until they broke free. I'm going to put some pictures on here just in case others have similar issues. Pictures are of the connectors with the lever housing on and the amount of lever movement I was getting when I wrote my original post (not enough). As well as the connectors with the housing off and the movement I was getting out of the lock bars when I wrote my original post (not enough). Thanks for the help!

Red green rails partial down.JPG

Red green rails up.JPG

Red lever down.JPG

Red lever partial up.JPG
 

HDHNTER

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Congrats on getting it sorted out.
Side-note, one of us is color blind... I'm just wondering if it's you or me. I'm seeing green & blue bars. [emoji16]
 

JR9633

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Congrats on getting it sorted out.
Side-note, one of us is color blind... I'm just wondering if it's you or me. I'm seeing green & blue bars. [emoji16]

Haha, I think we're both seeing fine! I'm seeing green and blue bars too.
 

HDHNTER

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Haha, I think we're both seeing fine! I'm seeing green and blue bars too.


Your pic file names are what got me thinking, lol.
 

BlackSheepRebel

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No worries, the clip isn't broken. There is a plastic bar (red if I remember correctly) on each side of the connect that mesh w/ the teeth on the release handle & slide up & down, locking the cable connector onto the pcm housing. You'll need to remove the small black OEM zip ties (use toenail clippers to snip easily w/out cutting wires). Don't replace these zip ties when finished w/ install, they're unnecessary & put tension on the connector housing. Now going off of memory here so directions may not be perfect but w/ a flashlight you'll see how the connector works. They hook on to pivot tabs & pop out of place easily which allowed the previously mentioned red lock bars to slip out of position. The result being, when you tried to release w/ the red lever, the cams that mesh had excess clearance allowing them to slip over each other which leaves the locking bars still locked in place. The fix, use a dental pick, the pointy end of a test light.... something thin & pointy to move the bars into the full release location (which is up). Use the connector that is properly releasing as a reference for proper lock tab position. Then reattach the connector body w/ lever back onto pivot points at bottom & the top will clip into place. Lever will now release connector. Do not force, when bars are properly lined up, it will release easily.... if there is resistance, you don't have the lock tabs in the right position. I know this reads a bit convoluted but using this info will make it easy to see what you need to do. Again, don't try & force or pry connector off, that's how you run into a real problem. If you have further issues, send a PM my way & I'll hook you up w/ my phone number to walk you through it. Once you fix this you'll know how to always do so..... be sure to help others out when you see them post as you have. The first impulse is to try & force it off, take your time & look at how it works, easy fix when you do.
This post is a lifesaver.
 

seabrook

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you did good !!! I just saw this or i would have replied that when these first came out a company did a really good video (something with "trucks" in the name like offroad trucks) anyway in the video they guy showed to wiggle the latch before pulling- you adding sil spray is even better (wd40 dissolves plastic)
 

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