Question about redline

[Burla]

Can anybody answer this

mos2 has the silver grey tint to it, lubegard is dark green/blue. It is so dark it can make oil darker, but wont effect oil negatively.

 

[Livinalittle]

I'm curious what everyone's train of thought is on this; it's something I was taught at trade school but that was a long time ago and I don't work in the auto industry anymore.

If you break in your engine using a low(er) viscosity oil and down the road, say 50-100 k you switch to a higher viscosity oil, your engine tolerances would tighten up. Therefore, going from 5W30 to 5W20, in theory you should be good to go....right? Or is their viscosity too similar?

I'm curious why some guys switch from a 5W20 to a 5W30. Would that not have negative effects against a hemi tick? Or is the theory that the oil is too thick to prime the hydraulic lifters? Even if that were the case...maybe going to a thinner oil fixed lifter problems but couldn't it cause some chatter elsewhere?

I'm not saying this line of thinking is correct, but it seems logical to me. I also think that folks living in the southern states should most definitely run 5W30 regardless of what weight is recommended. Where as us up here in Canada (less the territories or prairies where it gets to -45) 5W20 would make the most sense to me.


Any thoughts? I'd like to know if i'm out to lunch on this. I'll also throw this super exciting chart just for fun.

 

[Burla]

So cam lobs are being wiped out almost daily here, kinda what we all worry about. You think a thin or a slightly thicker oil would protect against that? Maybe neither? What is a lack of lubrication versus adequate lubrication? You believe thinner is adequate and thicker is lacking? Since most of the time engine parts are real hot, I believe the visa versa to this when the metal is hot. Now, there is the issue of cold start, where you have a point. But, what is worse the lack of lubrication at cold to those areas? Or the lack of film strength on hot metal? Viscosity is just measurement liquid as it relates to temperature and nothing more. That is why every oil has 5 or 6 different temperatures as a measurement of viscosity,cSt, noack, hths and all of the cold ones. There is no perfect choice, if there was we wouldn't have piston slap, hemi tick, and wiped out cams. This is why we all discuss here so much, try to find the best balance so we can say we did everything we could and if the cam fails after that oh well. Viscosity is just part of the deal additives and base oils as well.

 

[Burla]

People with hemi tick have tried many oils historically, they choose what silents it most. Newer members tend to follow the work the first guys did on this, so they might tend to just go to 5w30 redline as it has earned it's bones. Corey had done a lot of testing and recording notes and audio, his results showed lower viscosity was not the answer to his ticks. For me personally 5w20 and 5w30 redline worked and 10w30 did not, so maybe what you say is part of the answer for some trucks. I think every truck is different, and it is so random I cant wager nothing but a guess to as why.

 

[Livinalittle]

If switching your engine oil is all it takes to fix the tick and save your cam...absolutely, 100% do it.
I guess this is where my head is at: if you have a new ram, and you aren't mechanically sound, I would start with the chart above and run the recommended oil weight for your region (full synthetic obviously) With a caveat. If you notice a hemi tick early on, that is the time to switch oils. If you just bought a used ram with good service records, I personally would be hesitant to switch from 5W20 to 5W30 on an engine that has 100k on it. If that's what the engine has been broken in with and it hasn't broken yet, I would stick with what I got.

I might eat my words on this, and if i'm wrong I will be the first to admit it. I also bought my ram new because I don't trust people, and for the first 60k I would change the oil every 10k but the filter every 5 for fear of metal shavings.

I do respect your knowledge on the subject though Burla, I enjoy the discussion and I'm open to all trains of thought.

 

[wgreggking]

mos2 has the silver grey tint to it, lubegard is dark green/blue. It is so dark it can make oil darker, but wont effect oil negatively.

I Ordered two 10oz bottles of lubegard, going on a trip from AZ to gulf coast TX, next week. Say's 3 oz per /qt of capacity= 21oz, for the 6.4. I have less than 1K miles from last oci.
Not sure to use 1or 2, right before I leave. Long drive might get some moly plating action.

History:

"Posted in the syn thread also. Reserving my vote after more redline.
Went from FF to PUP until this last change.This report was RL 0w40 as was all the PUP. Both PUP and RL develop Hot tick after 3K miles. I cut open the last three RP 1048 filters don't see anything visible of magnetic. Still concerns me bolts seem ok. does seem like viscoty is better. I had to do an OC last weeK after this oci, and used the last PUP I had on hand.
Maybe go back to RL . Still under the Power train warranty only."

 

[Burla]

Because of oil pumps, the difference between the two is minimal

I Ordered two 10oz bottles of lubegard, going on a trip from AZ to gulf coast TX, next week. Say's 3 oz per /qt of capacity= 21oz, for the 6.4. I have less than 1K miles from last oci.
Not sure to use 1or 2, right before I leave. Long drive might get some moly plating action.

History:

"Posted in the syn thread also. Reserving my vote after more redline.
Went from FF to PUP until this last change.This report was RL 0w40 as was all the PUP. Both PUP and RL develop Hot tick after 3K miles. I cut open the last three RP 1048 filters don't see anything visible of magnetic. Still concerns me bolts seem ok. does seem like viscoty is better. I had to do an OC last weeK after this oci, and used the last PUP I had on hand.
Maybe go back to RL . Still under the Power train warranty only."

I'd use one at a time, pour it in when it is hot and check the hot ldie right away, and let us know if there is any difference at all. Obviously don't pour it in when engine is running, but shut off right after a trip. You can reserve your vote, that is responsible,but we don't care how the vote shakes out, we want the nah votes when it fails to kill ticks as much as yeah votes, just accurate numbers is all we are after. Thanks for doing the work

 

[wgreggking]

update two posts up on lubegard: Added 10 oz prior to leaving on my 3k trip. no difference until 1500 miles or so, the knock is now back to a tick, less noticeable, cant hear it in the cab anymore. Still a typical loud hemi. Next oci back to RL, Still worry about 5w40 and warranty.
These noises in your head are driving me crazy ( said the wife)

 

[James OBrien]

Don't know if it helps, I've been running 5W30 redline on my truck all winter with some nasty cold startups and it's been as quiet as it can be considering I've got headers, a mild cam and hellcat lifters... I've been running it since the motor had 10K miles on it.