Rear Differential Yoke Bolt Torque Specs When Replacing Pinion Seal

[EViS]

I will be replacing the rear differential pinion seal (Mopar #68056356AA) on my 2015 RAM 1500. I know to mark the flange nut before removal and count the number of turns so that it's put back with the correct preload on the bearings.

However, could anyone advise where I can find the torque specs for the four (15mm I think?) bolts which hold the driveshaft to the rear differential yoke? In addition, should I be applying threadlock to the flange nut as well as yoke bolts?

 

[EViS]

Any chance someone could offer some advice please ?

 

[GsRAM]

I would blue threadlock the pinion nut as well as the driveshaft to yoke bolts.

Torque specs you'll have to look up on Google. Make sure you look at the surface of the yoke that rises against the seal. If you feel any imperfections at all, however slight, look for a seal saver and sleeve the yoke before you go back together or it'll leak again.

Also, know the torque spec on that pinion nut. I dont know about counting number of turns off., there is a spec, use it. If you dont have the right preload on the pinion, it could make the rear noisy, burn up the bearings or too loose and it could blow apart. I dont know if ram uses a crush sleeve or not either on the pinion. Double, triple check your work before you run it.

My brother had a pinion seal replaced on his 14 Silverado under warranty by the dealer. Just outside the 100k warranty it failed. No help from GM of course. The dealer tech probably used an impact gun to take it apart (ok) but also probably used the impact to tighten that pinion nut, overtightened the nut and caused premature bearing failure (the pinion bearings were bad) not good. Be careful.

 

[EViS]

Thanks for the reply! From what I have researched, the pinion nut should not be torqued as this will not achieve the correct preload. Hence the best option is to mark before removal and count the number of turns? I'm used to torqueing everything so not doing so is in fact new to me.

I have tried googling for the yoke bolts torque spec but cannot find the answer anywhere.

 

[Greylord]

Hope this helps

 

[DILLIGAF]

Any chance someone could offer some advice please ?

Pdf service manual

Has anyone found a 4th generation service manual in a PDF format? If so can you please share the link? I can't get the McFall one to work on my phone. Thanks!

www.ramforum.com

 

[Greylord]

Rear pinion flange bolts, 85 ft lbs (a lot more than I would think) info from Mitchell on demand

 

[Wild one]

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[DILLIGAF]

The dealer tech probably used an impact gun to take it apart (ok) but also probably used the impact to tighten that pinion nut, overtightened the nut and caused premature bearing failure (the pinion bearings were bad) not good. Be careful.

Yeah thats how its done. Impact off . Impact on 90% of the way and you start checking the preload . No one sets 200+ Ft/lbs by hand ... lol...

 

[1rought]

its very hard to go by torque specs on pinion bolt.. its usually around 176 foot pounds on new bearings...you should go by preload .. there is a new bearing setting and and a old bearing setting .usually around 9 to 12 inch pounds. not foot pounds. problem is that its supposed to be measured with the axles and carrier out of the vehicle...
my solution was to take out the axles and measure the preload before removal and put it back the way it was.
never had a problem.. use lock tight for sure but finish the torque of the bolt before it dries. too loose is better than too tight...

 

[Jeepwalker]

Yeah, I would just cinch it on real tight with some thread locker (new nut) but not tight as to crush the sleeve. I wouldn't go over 200'/lbs. But YMMV. It's one of those nebulous ratings that's hard to put down on paper ..they may not even list a spec for re-torquing.

And I've only a couple times ever installed a new nut and never had one come off. And I bet 90% of the shops don't either. If you feel like it, just dent the top to get extra holding on the nut. Or better yet replace it with new.

 

[pacofortacos]

Just putting the nut back on exactly where it came off is a recipe for disaster. Bearing preload loose=bad, bearing preload tight=bad, bearing preload just right=happy bearings.

Ideally, measure the preload with everything off (tires, axles out, no gear lube, etc.). If you are going to cheat at all measuring preload do it with tires/brakes/etc off, leave axles on and drain lube. And measure it before removing the nut to set it to the same preload after.
Nut Torque spec should be close to listed torque spec if preload is right.

 

[DILLIGAF]

People still use crush sleeves ? Its 2022... lol...

Crush sleeve eliminator is the ticket

 

[Jeepwalker]

Mopar lists one ..at least some 1500 diffs

 

[GsRAM]

Yeah thats how its done. Impact off . Impact on 90% of the way and you start checking the preload . No one sets 200+ Ft/lbs by hand ... lol...

No one? I've rebuilt several rear differentials and always used a torque wrench going back together. If you have the proper tools it can be done.

The FRPP ring and pinion kit for the Ford 8.8 rear comes with a new crush sleeve. I use them all the time with no issues.

 

[DILLIGAF]

The proper tool is called a 1/2 Milwaukee impact.

 

[pacofortacos]

No one? I've rebuilt several rear differentials and always used a torque wrench going back together. If you have the proper tools it can be done.

The FRPP ring and pinion kit for the Ford 8.8 rear comes with a new crush sleeve. I use them all the time with no issues.

Same here.