Rear Doors Rattle update

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

78Staff

US Navy Veteran
Military
Joined
Aug 3, 2018
Posts
961
Reaction score
540
Location
NE Florida
Ram Year
2016
Engine
5.7L Hemi
So finally decided to try and do something about the rattle on the rear doors. Have been thinking about doing some stereo upgrades but there's no point if I can't get the rattle issue solved.

So, first attempt was having local shop to the dynamat deal. Since I have been dealing with that shop they gave me a good price and I actually already had the dynamat which they agreed to use. But, turns out the main issue is the panel rattling, not so much the metal. So they stopped and said it would be better to solve that first otherwise dynamat would be wasting time. They suggested spray insulation on the panel, but I didn't really want to deal with that (plus, the spray insulation gets terrible reviews generally), so I went a different route.

Ordered some Stinger Overkill dampening mat - it differs in that it's adhesive backed closed cell foam. I removed the panels and did the feel and listen deal to determine the problem areas. Generally on the inner panel it's the upper section, so I put some on the inside there and on the outside as well. A problem area I had not considered was wiring, there was definitely some rattling/buzzing coming from the wiring bundles vibrating against the panel, so added some under those in strategic spots. Also, the speaker surround rattles, which is surprised as it's actually fairly thick, so I added some there as well. And the plastic access cover rattles, so it got a patch as well. Basically, as you add the foam, you find different rattles lol.

Then I attacked the panels themselves - and to be honest I don't know if we can ever completely get rid of the panel rattle, it's just a poor design from RAM. A lightweight panel (Bighorn, anyway - Leather panels might not be as bad as I suspect they are heavier) with loose attachment points to the door is a recipe for disaster. But I basically put large sheets across the flat areas, and strips along the edges and behind the mounting clip points, pretty much everywhere that was an open area. It does make the panel a bit tighter to re-install, which is probably a good thing. It also adds some weight which should help as well. I also added a few strips to the upper piller panel as well.

Anyway, the ends result is actually pretty good. I have to really turn it up to get any rattle now, and everything sounds so much better. Bass is a bit tighter, even with stock Head Unit and middle of the road Pioneer upgraded 6x9's. Overall it took about 2 hours, mostly on the first door - feel and stick, feel and stick, etc. The 2nd door I pretty much knew where I need to stick it so it went much faster.

Overkill was about $50, and I used probably 80% of it, so if you wanted to do all doors you would need two packages. For whatever reason my fronts don't rattle so I didn't bother with them...yet. :).

Anyway, going to run it for a few days and make sure it's just not a placebo effect lol. but so far I'm pretty pleased for $50.

https://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_42087_Stinger-RKO12.html


I really, really would like to find a better panel attachement design - the ones I have are getting loose from removing and re-adding a few times, plus I'm missing one or two - but would like to find something better before buying replacements - any ideas?
 

O.R.T.

Senior Member
Joined
Sep 21, 2013
Posts
2,650
Reaction score
1,680
Location
Wessyyydddeee
Ram Year
2014
Engine
Hemi
An added quick trick on the lower tier door cards (panels) is switching the cheap-o wanna-be torx plastic 2-part fasteners to only using the rear pieces of them. Pull them apart, put the main part into the door holes and then put small o-rings between the door card and secure things with an actual black metal torx screw. This actually secures the door cards better and insulates them a tiny bit. Combined with what you just did it solves a ton.

My next adventure will be trying out small dabs of 3M panel bond on the backs of the door cards where two pieces of plastic are wended/bonded together but develop noise as they age. :D
 
OP
OP
78Staff

78Staff

US Navy Veteran
Military
Joined
Aug 3, 2018
Posts
961
Reaction score
540
Location
NE Florida
Ram Year
2016
Engine
5.7L Hemi
Couple of errands and it's a definite improvement. Well worth the $50 and 2 hours.

I am hearing some buzzing from the B-Piller panel now - so will attack those next. They have the seatbelt through them and have SRS Airbag molded into them, so I assume there's an airbag behind them as well. Hopefully no issues pulling the B Pillar panels?
 

O.R.T.

Senior Member
Joined
Sep 21, 2013
Posts
2,650
Reaction score
1,680
Location
Wessyyydddeee
Ram Year
2014
Engine
Hemi
IMHO - Disconnect the battery, tie both battery leads together so the system loses any residual voltage stored, and as always consult the FSM before trying anything.
 

Latest posts

Staff online

Forum statistics

Threads
195,486
Posts
2,870,933
Members
156,207
Latest member
txram956
Top