Rear end rebuild - research

[Black1500Ram]

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[DILLIGAF]

Just go buy the specs in the Yukon book. and Initial torque of 210ftlbs is just the minimum you need then you keep torquing down until you get your pinion pre-load.

thats why i said to have 2 crush sleeve as youll probbaly f it up on your first try. Heck I f it up once in a while to this day. But I always send it with my Milwaukee 1/2 impact

Even with all my fancy tools, i use this tool when checking my pre-laod, https://www.amazon.ca/Neiko-03727A-4-Inch-Torque-Wrench/dp/B01FMXEWQC/ref=sr_1_4?crid=2CS6ZZH8XU24A&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.IX6ICIeGY4HuCNL7FFF6KJ2JT9apxFZDr8jvKg0wptng-3BQdzizj2v9dIrS88nemFArZKuPUlZfOkKqYzGdpnJXbHd5a47RQK7mUjpRtFawHO_iDYm91H1OErpQEaR5eyul6cHDzcLX8MaKoAqQdWU-J81eS8nG90W7jtYyHppT9Gf-NYWbvNZMNVcAWg0FMwlyJaR9NsCA7jpFBXmgR69idYeKk40BirOJlfbmLfKZ5zZ5A8goihjH6XY9Gr-rQYjV9TqR_NNIZwBukEwkzbg9ljGUATIiWJyfZzkru88.3y7a-IPKw02HG1evGssAGGt4HIQh-5tKhtUOVEWel3k&dib_tag=se&keywords=1/4-Inch-Drive+Beam+Torque+Wrench&qid=1725885172&s=hi&sprefix=1/4-inch-drive+beam+torque+wrench,tools,114&sr=1-4

This guy has the best video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JWbsYrCvy-0&list=PLZiPM9pGwXmCBdKSHUag0bGqxW446QGik

 

[Black1500Ram]

Just go buy the specs in the Yukon book. and Initial torque of 210ftlbs is just the minimum you need then you keep torquing down until you get your pinion pre-load.

thats why i said to have 2 crush sleeve as youll probbaly f it up on your first try. Heck I f it up once in a while to this day. But I always send it with my Milwaukee 1/2 impact

Even with all my fancy tools, i use this tool when checking my pre-laod, https://www.amazon.ca/Neiko-03727A-4-Inch-Torque-Wrench/dp/B01FMXEWQC/ref=sr_1_4?crid=2CS6ZZH8XU24A&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.IX6ICIeGY4HuCNL7FFF6KJ2JT9apxFZDr8jvKg0wptng-3BQdzizj2v9dIrS88nemFArZKuPUlZfOkKqYzGdpnJXbHd5a47RQK7mUjpRtFawHO_iDYm91H1OErpQEaR5eyul6cHDzcLX8MaKoAqQdWU-J81eS8nG90W7jtYyHppT9Gf-NYWbvNZMNVcAWg0FMwlyJaR9NsCA7jpFBXmgR69idYeKk40BirOJlfbmLfKZ5zZ5A8goihjH6XY9Gr-rQYjV9TqR_NNIZwBukEwkzbg9ljGUATIiWJyfZzkru88.3y7a-IPKw02HG1evGssAGGt4HIQh-5tKhtUOVEWel3k&dib_tag=se&keywords=1/4-Inch-Drive+Beam+Torque+Wrench&qid=1725885172&s=hi&sprefix=1/4-inch-drive+beam+torque+wrench,tools,114&sr=1-4

This guy has the best video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JWbsYrCvy-0&list=PLZiPM9pGwXmCBdKSHUag0bGqxW446QGik


View attachment 550387
View attachment 550388

Does it say anything about carrier bearing preload? I might give them a call.

 

[Black1500Ram]

Does it say anything about carrier bearing preload? I might give them a call.

Inquired with Yukon their response was to torque the side adjusters to 100-150ft lbs.

They also stated that there’s no problem tossing the race to housing shim, that on their kits all the shims are bearing to pinion.

New puller comes in today; we’ll see how it goes.

 

[Black1500Ram]

Got the new tool, it zapped off the bearings off stupid easy!

Also my pinion had 0 shims under the pinion bearing so I should be good to add the same thickness as what was behind the race.

Edit**

New carrier bearings on.
Heated them to 220° and knocked on with old bearing and hammer no press required.

Super easy.

Reinstalled the lsd clutches including the ear clips, no broken tabs. Spun in the spider gears and secured with the pin until the carrier goes back in the housing.

Tomorrow I’ll mic up the shim and install the equivalent on the pinion. Install inner race, outer bearing, seal, set pinion bearing preload carefully (25 in-lbs new bearing turning force).

Install carrier, torque side adjusters while ensuring back lash, torque caps, paint a pattern, axles, moon clips, gasket, cover, gear oil, driveshaft, rotors, calipers, reattach sway bar, track bar, wheels.

 

[Black1500Ram]

30°F pinion, 200° F bearing, old bearing as spacer, hammer… right on with 0.065” of shims.

 

[Black1500Ram]

Just go buy the specs in the Yukon book. and Initial torque of 210ftlbs is just the minimum you need then you keep torquing down until you get your pinion pre-load.

thats why i said to have 2 crush sleeve as youll probbaly f it up on your first try. Heck I f it up once in a while to this day. But I always send it with my Milwaukee 1/2 impact

Even with all my fancy tools, i use this tool when checking my pre-laod, https://www.amazon.ca/Neiko-03727A-4-Inch-Torque-Wrench/dp/B01FMXEWQC/ref=sr_1_4?crid=2CS6ZZH8XU24A&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.IX6ICIeGY4HuCNL7FFF6KJ2JT9apxFZDr8jvKg0wptng-3BQdzizj2v9dIrS88nemFArZKuPUlZfOkKqYzGdpnJXbHd5a47RQK7mUjpRtFawHO_iDYm91H1OErpQEaR5eyul6cHDzcLX8MaKoAqQdWU-J81eS8nG90W7jtYyHppT9Gf-NYWbvNZMNVcAWg0FMwlyJaR9NsCA7jpFBXmgR69idYeKk40BirOJlfbmLfKZ5zZ5A8goihjH6XY9Gr-rQYjV9TqR_NNIZwBukEwkzbg9ljGUATIiWJyfZzkru88.3y7a-IPKw02HG1evGssAGGt4HIQh-5tKhtUOVEWel3k&dib_tag=se&keywords=1/4-Inch-Drive+Beam+Torque+Wrench&qid=1725885172&s=hi&sprefix=1/4-inch-drive+beam+torque+wrench,tools,114&sr=1-4

This guy has the best video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JWbsYrCvy-0&list=PLZiPM9pGwXmCBdKSHUag0bGqxW446QGik


View attachment 550387
View attachment 550388

I highly recommend this advice to have 2 crush sleeves.

I thankfully did not over torque mine, I’m at 27 inch lbs, I was aiming for 25 in lbs, but it went from not registering, and then one ugga dugga later 27 inch lbs.

I checked multiple times to make sure it wasn’t any higher, so dang be careful

 

[DILLIGAF]

A couple over won't hurt,, I always set mine on the tight side. The GM 7.5 I did a couple days ago was over by 2" lbs. I sure didn't take it apart the gear pattern was way to perfect to touch it. And my backlash was spot on 6

 

[Black1500Ram]

Just go buy the specs in the Yukon book. and Initial torque of 210ftlbs is just the minimum you need then you keep torquing down until you get your pinion pre-load.

thats why i said to have 2 crush sleeve as youll probbaly f it up on your first try. Heck I f it up once in a while to this day. But I always send it with my Milwaukee 1/2 impact

Even with all my fancy tools, i use this tool when checking my pre-laod,

Checking backlash sucked.

I got it to .009” then with what felt like 1/8 of a rotation of the drivers side adjuster and I was under .005!”

So I played around with that until I ended up at 0.007” backlash then torqued the caps down to 40 then 100 ft lbs and checked again and was still good.

Just the amount of back n forth; driver, passenger, under the truck, repeat etc (doing this on jack stands) SUCKED.

Anyway got everything back together and it was just butter smooth.

just took it for a test drive and it’s erily silent… I can hear my header exhaust leak all that much more now .

I’ll make another post shortly of my lessons learned.

 

[Black1500Ram]

A couple over won't hurt,, I always set mine on the tight side. The GM 7.5 I did a couple days ago was over by 2" lbs. I sure didn't take it apart the gear pattern was way to perfect to touch it. And my backlash was spot on 6

Yeah I didn’t take it a part again I was surprised how quick it took up on the turning foce, but I guess it makes sense.

 

[Black1500Ram]

Ok lessons learned:
• if you can, do this on a lift.
• buy the recommended tools ahead of time
• The bearing puller recommended in this thread is an absolute must IMO. The rental clamshell style pullers, and the 2/3 jaw rental pullers suck. The 3” clamshell one broke the lip of my bearings, the 2 jaw just keeps slipping off. Perhaps a larger clamshell style puller with a larger radius inner lip would work as the one I had was only making contact in 4 points instead of cradling the whole bearing lip. You”ll want a larger than you think puller (4”)
• 32mm 12 point socket for the later model years’ pinion flange nut.
• use a hammer tho hit the pinion flange lip to remove, don’t try any kind of wedge between it and the housing. I damaged the sealing surface on the flange when the chisel slipped. ($100 mistake)
• the axle adjuster tool can be had for $25 off of Amazon.
• Buy / rent a quality dial indicator that has sturdy arms. The one I rented had a fine angle adjustment, but that allowed for free rotation of one arm which made setup unnecessarily annoying each time.
• A press isn’t necessary but could be helpful
• the rental bearing race driver sets don’t have a large enough plate for the inner bearing race. (both oreily’s and autozone the only went up to 3.185” and the inner bearing race is ~ 3.5.” Also the rental sets’ handles aren’t long enough for the inner race due to the diff case length. You’ll want a handle of ~8-10”
• use a punch / sold chisel for hitting out the races, not a screwdriver (no matter how stout) makes a huge difference.
• putting the races and pinion in the freezer overnight helped a lot.
• heating the bearings to ~210° helped but even still they will not just slip on. You’ll still need to use the old bearing and hammer or a press to get them fully seated.
• use a torque wrench on the pinion nut if possible. An impact doesn’t allow for easy finite adjustments and makes it easy to overtighten the nut / bearings.
• have 2 crush sleeves just in case
• if you’re reusing your ring gear and pinion, reusing the oem shim / shim thickness resulted in a great pattern and silent running diff.
• if you have an LSD with low miles / don’t drive harsh, there’s probably no need to pull it imo. If you’re buying new lsd, this would be a good time to add. Getting the spider gears back in takes a little effort. I used the axle in the carrier while it was out of the housing to help spin the gears in.

Total cost ~$250 would have $100 been less if I didn’t gouge my pinion flange.

Rented / resold all the specialty tools

I was astonished by how little damage to the bearing rollers correlated to such diff whine. I was expecting significantly worse damage to bearings / races.