Rear shock removal on a 2500

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jguida

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Hey guys, sorry if this is wrong or the answer is obvious and I just missed it. I picked up a thuren level with fox shocks all around. I went to take a look at the rear shocks after getting the truck up and am just curious if there's a trick to getting the rear shocks off that I'm missing. I pulled the wheel well cover off and can get wrenches on but with limited space I'm having a rough time breaking them loose. If anyone has a vid or tips on how they got theirs off I'd appreciate it. Fronts came off super easy. Thanks.
 

gsfitzsr

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It is a pain to get at the 18mm nut securing the top but it can be done. Luckily mine were not so tight and broke free easily. A swivel rachet head wrench would be the best to use. I did not remove my wheel well plastic, I just removed the two lower screws and folded it back to get at the top of the shock.
 
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jguida

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It is a pain to get at the 18mm nut securing the top but it can be done. Luckily mine were not so tight and broke free easily. A swivel rachet head wrench would be the best to use. I did not remove my wheel well plastic, I just removed the two lower screws and folded it back to get at the top of the shock.

I can get my 18mm on but it just turns the whole shock. I can't seem to get the shock steady enough to break the nut free. I soaked in PB, will give it some more turns in a bit.
 

mtnrider

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I have not replaced the rears on my 2500 (yet) but most shocks have a allen head at the very top of the shock stud. Not sure if you can get up in there to get an allen wrench in it but it's worth a look?

.
 
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jguida

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I have not replaced the rears on my 2500 (yet) but most shocks have a allen head at the very top of the shock stud. Not sure if you can get up in there to get an allen wrench in it but it's worth a look?

.
My stock ones definitely do not have the hex head. The fox shocks do. The stock ones have a fairly corroded possibly 10mm or square. Couldn't get anything to bite onto it on either side.
 

G. Mcpherson

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I believe that on the shaft on top that it takes an allen wrench. Metric 5 or 6. Also spray a little WD on the Threads.
 
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jguida

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Finally got it for anyone that may experience the same problem. A massive pair of vice grips on the stem and ratchet on the 18mm nut finally broke it. This will obviously mar the crap out of the old shock but it's off.
 

busterbrown

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I used a hacksaw (and a few curse words) to cut that top threaded stem. Even with only 15k miles on my truck, the securing nut did not budge. Others have used a sawzall. These OEM shocks were never going to see the undercarriage again, anyways.
 

Outbreak

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I believe that on the shaft on top that it takes an allen wrench. Metric 5 or 6. Also spray a little WD on the Threads.

This! It took me a few minutes (well, a lot of minutes) to figure this out.
 

6.4LMegaMan

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I had to use a sawsall to cut mine out. They were ridiculously tight and just spun the shaft. Couldn't even get a vice grip to bite. I fought with it for a very long time before resulting to the saw. It took maybe 20 seconds to cut them off though lol.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk
 
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jguida

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I had to use a sawsall to cut mine out. They were ridiculously tight and just spun the shaft. Couldn't even get a vice grip to bite. I fought with it for a very long time before resulting to the saw. It took maybe 20 seconds to cut them off though lol.

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I was about to grab my angle grinder and cut the ******** off when I decided to give the vice grips one last try. I'm amazed at how poor the location/design is on them but at least they're out. Hope to be able to finish the track bar and give it a test ride today.
 

mtnrider

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I was going to suggest vice grips but you figured it out. Had to do that on one of my old trucks before. Wish they would come up with a better way to hold that shaft from spinning. The threads always rust up and if the shock is hard to get to it becomes a real pain to get out.

.
 

bobbo7915

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i just had to cut a set 5100s out of the front of my truck with an angle grinder, 35,000 miles and the threads were so rusted i ended up stripping out the 6mm allen in the top after soaking with PB Blaster.
 
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jguida

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i just had to cut a set 5100s out of the front of my truck with an angle grinder, 35,000 miles and the threads were so rusted i ended up stripping out the 6mm allen in the top after soaking with PB Blaster.

I just hit 31k miles on mine and they were rusted to hell, I was able to get the front off easily enough but the rear were such a pain. I definitely had an easier time getting the whole front level done vs just the shocks in the rear. Loving the ride with the new coils, though.
 

RLM5150

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I haven't replaced my rears shocks yet, but have some 5100's on order and will be doing this shortly. I'm thinking a nut splitter should help make this easier.

For those that have replaced the rear shocks, did you need to remove the wheel well liner for access, or just come in from the interior side of the frame?
 

G. Mcpherson

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I was able to get to the nut without removing the liner. The driver side i accessed it from the inside under neath the truck. Spray down the nut a few times prior to removing. 6mm allen for the shaft.
 

busterbrown

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I had to remove my liners. Not difficult but a little origami was in order to get them back in. I had to hacksaw the top threaded shaft as the securing bits stripped out on both sides. The 5100s will be easier to remove when the time comes for replacement.
 

Motor Head

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I haven't replaced my rears shocks yet, but have some 5100's on order and will be doing this shortly. I'm thinking a nut splitter should help make this easier.

For those that have replaced the rear shocks, did you need to remove the wheel well liner for access, or just come in from the interior side of the frame?

Simple process and only took me about 1 1/2 hrs. Check out my how to video on how I replaced mine on my 18’. I did take off the wheel well covers btw.
 

DarthMegaHD

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I never imagined having to saw out shocks lol I know they can be a pain though
 

Scottly

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I replaced mine on a 2018. Remove the screws from the front half of the wheel well covers, which will give them enough freedom to move out of your way and allow total access to the upper shock nut without having to remove the entire cover. If the top nut won't budge, fire pliers or a bi-metal sawzall blade make quick work of it. E-brake cable on driver side impedes lower bolt removal and install...Just give it a nudge and it'll go.
 
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