Rear Tires Rubbing After New Shocks

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Sean J Blackburn

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Hey all,

I recently replaced the rear suspension (trac bar and all 4 rear control arms) and I believe there was no rubbing afterwards.

A week or two ago I replaced my worn out rear shocks with bilstein 5100 that said they were for stock height trucks up to 1" lift. My rear is not lifted (front is leveled). I just went to check my air pressure and noticed some fresh light scuff marks from both rear tires rubbing. I don't recall ever having rubbing before switching the rear shocks. I have stock 17" wheels and 275/70/17 BF Goodrich tko 2 all terrain tires. They are the stock size tire.

The entire rear suspension is new except the coil springs, but pretty sure the rubbing didn't start until I swapped the shocks. I'm not sure how switching the shocks out could cause rubbing. That seems nuts to me but I'm no expert, just a guy who wrenches for fun and to save money. My mechanical ability exceeds my knowledge base. I can swap parts no problem but diagnosing a problem can be a different story!

The part number on the bilsteins they sent is the correct one for my truck.

I have been under the truck and all the suspension parts I replaced are torqued to spec.

I'm not sure how replacing the shocks could cause rubbing which is why I'm here. What would you guys suggest checking?
 

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The direction in which you inserted the bolts into the holes.
 

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What exactly is rubbing ...and where? Are the tires rubbing the inner wheelhouse?
 

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direction of bolts have no relevance on tires rubbing on shocks.. If the tires are not touching the shocks when you are sitting still then you have something drastically loose on the rear that is allowing it to wander when you are turning causing the rubbing. Posting some pictures up would possibly help us see what is happening
 

Scottly

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direction of bolts have no relevance on tires rubbing on shocks..
He didn't say his tires were rubbing on the shocks. He said his tires were rubbing since he did the shocks. If you put the upper rear bolt in with threads facing outward, it pushes on the fender liner and can indeed rub on the tire.

Not saying that's what's happening because there are no pictures attached, but it is indeed a possibility.
 
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Sean J Blackburn

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He didn't say his tires were rubbing on the shocks. He said his tires were rubbing since he did the shocks. If you put the upper rear bolt in with threads facing outward, it pushes on the fender liner and can indeed rub on the tire.

Not saying that's what's happening because there are no pictures attached, but it is indeed a possibility.
I think the upper shock bolts will only go in one way. Regardless, I put them back in the way they came out so hopefully that's not the problem.
 
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Sean J Blackburn

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Here are a couple of pics of the rubbing
 

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Sean J Blackburn

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He didn't say his tires were rubbing on the shocks. He said his tires were rubbing since he did the shocks. If you put the upper rear bolt in with threads facing outward, it pushes on the fender liner and can indeed rub on the tire.

Not saying that's what's happening because there are no pictures attached, but it is indeed a possibility.
Can you expand on this? On my truck the rear upper shock bolt goes one way into a nut that needs a crow foot to hold. Right now I have it set up with the nut closest to the tire and the bolt head towards the inside of the truck. I believe you are saying that could be the problem but that is how they were installed with the last set of shocks with no problems.
 

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If it's rubbing the inside sidewall with the plastic inner splash panel on BOTH sides, it would of always had that potential but may now show marks due to more suspension travel.
In other words, with the new parts everything is freed up and you're getting a larger range of motion. All the work done so far cannot make the rear any narrower to cause the rub.
Are you overloading the truck? Are you now "flexing" out the suspension causing it to rub? It looks like 5" of travel where it is rubbing, are the bumpstops still intact? Maybe the plastic splash panel is warped outward causing the rub.
The shocks wouldn't necessarily be the cause, but if they are weak they would allow the truck to bottom out easier with excessive travel and now show the rub marks.
Only other thing is the aggressive sidewall tread compared to the stock tire is the cause.
 
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Sean J Blackburn

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If it's rubbing the inside sidewall with the plastic inner splash panel on BOTH sides, it would of always had that potential but may now show marks due to more suspension travel.
In other words, with the new parts everything is freed up and you're getting a larger range of motion. All the work done so far cannot make the rear any narrower to cause the rub.
Are you overloading the truck? Are you now "flexing" out the suspension causing it to rub? It looks like 5" of travel where it is rubbing, are the bumpstops still intact? Maybe the plastic splash panel is warped outward causing the rub.
The shocks wouldn't necessarily be the cause, but if they are weak they would allow the truck to bottom out easier with excessive travel and now show the rub marks.
Only other thing is the aggressive sidewall tread compared to the stock tire is the cause.
I do occasionally tow a 7k pound travel trailer but I haven't had that hooked up since the suspension components were replaced. I believe I am driving the truck as I normally do so I shouldn't be flexing the suspension any more than I normally do. With regard to the rear bump stops, they are sort of worn so it might be a good idea to replace those.

Regarding the shocks, they are brand new bilstein 5100. When I was installing them I had to lift the rear maybe 2" to get them lined up and installed. Not sure if that is normal or not but the part number is correct for my truck.
 

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Did you verify your old and new panhard rod lengths were the same? Or is there an adjustment cam on it?

IDK if I'd hit the inner fender liner with a heat gun. Might be better to drill a hole and add a new fastener.
 

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Can you expand on this? On my truck the rear upper shock bolt goes one way into a nut that needs a crow foot to hold. Right now I have it set up with the nut closest to the tire and the bolt head towards the inside of the truck. I believe you are saying that could be the problem but that is how they were installed with the last set of shocks with no p
The normal installation configuration is the bolt being inserted from the outside of the mount, with the nut on the inside of the mount. The bolt face is facing the wheel well liner and the nut is what you would grab with a crowsfoot, or wrench if you can get in there. If you reverse that, you have the additional threaded portion of the bolt sticking out and pushing on the wheel well liner. Again, not sure if that's your issue, but throwing it out there...for a reason.
 

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The normal installation configuration is the bolt being inserted from the outside of the mount, with the nut on the inside of the mount. The bolt face is facing the wheel well liner and the nut is what you would grab with a crowsfoot, or wrench if you can get in there. If you reverse that, you have the additional threaded portion of the bolt sticking out and pushing on the wheel well liner. Again, not sure if that's your issue, but throwing it out there...for a reason.
OP, Definitely go check what he's saying quoted above.
Like he said, if rhe shock bolt is real long it may be pushing the plastic splash shield out into the path of the tire.
So far this makes the most sense.
 
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