Rebuilt Magnum 5.9L 2001 Dodge Ram 1500

[Dominic1976]

I have a 2001 Dodge Ram 1500 w/ 5.9L Magnum. I decided to have the motor rebuilt to stock with the exception of a slightly bigger cam and intake.

Comp Cam Part No# 20-604-9
HUGHES FI AIRGAP KIT

I purchased a custom tune from Performance Injection Equipment that would reprogram the ECM for the cam and intake

I have applied the tune but the timing is off badly. It sputters and backfires when I try to start it. My mechanic has the timing set to TDC Top Dead Center. We have spark and fuel. We have changed the distributor and crank sensor. New plugs and wires. I have read on the forums that since the cam for this motor is computer controlled, there needs to be some diags run using more expensive diag tools that my mechanic doesn't have. Can anyone offer any assistance and/or a shop in the Chicagoland area that specializes in Dodge performance/tuning. DISCLAIMER, I am no mechanic or engine expert but I will try to answer any follow up questions to the best of my ability. Thanks in advance.

 

[pacofortacos]

"I have applied the tune but the timing is off badly. It sputters and backfires when I try to start it. My mechanic has the timing set to TDC Top Dead Center."

Not possible to set the timing to TDC - if you actually mean timing. It is controlled by the PCM.
Have you set the sync yet?

How are you reprogramming the PCM? Handheld?

Are you sure the cam was installed correctly and did you install the distributor correctly? If the cam gears were dot to dot and you installed the distributor to point at #1 cylinder then you are 180 degrees out.

 

[Dominic1976]

Not sure what you mean by "Have you set the sync yet". I am a novice and am trying to relay what my mechanic told me. I am programming from a handheld. I believe the cam was installed correctly. We tried with distributor at #1, then flipped it 180 degrees

 

[pacofortacos]

The cam sensor (ie. distributor pickup) must be in sync with the crank sensor - there are ways to rough ball park it but generally you need a good scanner to set the sync. I preferred it set at +6 degrees.

To tell if the distributor is correct as far as if the rotor is pointing to the right place.
Bring the motor up to TDC (TDC at the end of the compression stroke) and look to see if the rotor is pointing to #1 on the cap and physically towards #1 cylinder.

 

[Dominic1976]

Thanks, I will confirm with my mechanic

 

[dapepper9]

Get the service manual off the DIY section sticky.

Distributor operation/removal/installation is on page 548. 8i-11

Be good to share with the mechanic.


Also, ditch PIE as a tuner. Notoriously terrible. When the truck can barely idle and stumbles at part throttle you'll get told "that's as good as it's going to get" which is bs. Runs his tunes stupid rich and over times the ignition. FRPTuning or UtawesomePerformance would be the 2 recommendations and only 2 recommendations on tuning.

 

[dapepper9]

The diagnostic tools needed are a Chrysler DRB3 or a Snap-on mt2500 or Snap-on Solus works too i think. Im not sure on the solus.

If you get it visually dead on through the manual setting, either of those 2 tuners will be able to tune it to be drivable. Then you can take it to a dealer if your mechanic doesn't have access to the specialized tools ive mentioned and they can set the FUEL SYNC. Probably cost you $50.


Also! I know im sorry. More money to be spent. BUT you NEED, absolutely NEED to have a wideband oxygen sensor to be able to properly tune the truck. Idk if you've already dealt with that but it wasn't mentioned so im posting it now