RedLine Engine Knock

[Burla]

Tim: I only hope you were attempting to make a Joke?

RL oils carry some of the most Robust/Stoutest formulations you will find!
Not one of the RL Viscosity oils Need a cheap over the counter oil additive added.
Their base oils are second to none as well.

The 5.7L has a engine design flaw (weak upper valve train) & I honestly believe FCA knows this - RL oils are only a band aid - but a very strong band aid.
I also feel select high quality oil filters can help in this issue as well - aid in start up & normal oil flow up to this critical area.

My honest opinion thinks there is a oil flow issue up too the upper valve train area - also the lifter design is a sad excuse for reliability - especially just after warranty is expired.
This is why I as well as many others believe the Moly plating is very vital.

It seems to help most cases - some well it just wasn't meant to be.
I started with PUP SRT 0W-40 @ the 8K mile mark in my 2014 - most know the 0W-40 was loaded with over 200 ppm of Infinium Moly.
I attempted to avoid any amount of idling mainly @ operating temp - since this is when the oil psi was at its lowest!
Traded her in @ the 18K mile mark - now I have some FUN Government Emissions to be concerned & worried with.

Once again: I'm rambling - I apologize & I'm done!
Everybody have a awesome day & Happy Holidays

For Burla & Crew: Years ago I told you fellas bout my neighbor 2 houses down with his 13-14 Ram 5.7L & how it sounded like a Steriod Infested Sewing Machine @ idle from 2 houses down - it is really sad how it has slowly progressed into a unreal unnatural sound now.
I am honestly very curious to see just how long she will continue before the lifters eat the cam.

All joking aside, Kyle used m0s2 with redline and it did sound better. I believe redline killed his hemi tick, and that combo addressed cold piston slap with some success. Whatever works and has decent science behind it I am all about. Some evidence such as Corey's uoa's suggest if you kill the tick, the wear numbers get better, wouldn't that suggest the issue is fixed and not masked? The only downside is you have to stick with that strategy because it is temporarily "fixed" otherwise. I would attempt to use the least number of products to achieve that butter smooth engine, but I'd rather stack m0s2 on redline then have piston slap, if that is what it takes. There is two or three things going on, cold start up tick, warm idle tick, and cold piston slap. Clearly redline 5w30 is good at warm idle hemi tick and cold tick, but maybe you need something else for piston slap. Maybe more m0s2 tests are needed, maybe that added to whatever generic oil will be best at all 3 things? We still need more testing, we seam to have been stuck on just one.

 

[16RamHemi]

All joking aside, Kyle used m0s2 with redline and it did sound better. I believe redline killed his hemi tick, and that combo addressed cold piston slap with some success. Whatever works and has decent science behind it I am all about. Some evidence such as Corey's uoa's suggest if you kill the tick, the wear numbers get better, wouldn't that suggest the issue is fixed and not masked? The only downside is you have to stick with that strategy because it is temporarily "fixed" otherwise. I would attempt to use the least number of products to achieve that butter smooth engine, but I'd rather stack m0s2 on redline then have piston slap, if that is what it takes. There is two or three things going on, cold start up tick, warm idle tick, and cold piston slap. Clearly redline 5w30 is good at warm idle hemi tick and cold tick, but maybe you need something else for piston slap. Maybe more m0s2 tests are needed, maybe that added to whatever generic oil will be best at all 3 things? We still need more testing, we seam to have been stuck on just one.

The thing about it all is we have accomplished a lot. We have direct evidence of what redline can do. Is there other brands out there that can make that claim? Many come on here and bash redline or say oil is oil, but they never show how another brand has helped with these proven issues. I think what many fail to realize is that most on here are proactive in wanting to do what's best for their truck. Not to bash brand a or b. When we ask for evidence all we get is crickets from the finger pointers. We are gaining on this. It takes time to rack up uoas. I have personally seen it help and now want to fine tune it. I'm not happy with odd noises from my engine. When running right I love how this 5.7 sounds with the borla catback. Ticking is embarrassing. The amount of trucks I hear out there with ticking motors is crazy high. Brand New ones too. Not everyone wants to throw $6500 at their truck to fix an obvious manufacturer defect.

 

[Ribtipram]

Being running rl 0w40 in my 6.4 for a couple weeks now. About 1500 or so miles. All's i hear is some loud ass injectors firing away.

 

[Burla]

The thing about it all is we have accomplished a lot. We have direct evidence of what redline can do. Is there other brands out there that can make that claim? Many come on here and bash redline or say oil is oil, but they never show how another brand has helped with these proven issues. I think what many fail to realize is that most on here are proactive in wanting to do what's best for their truck. Not to bash brand a or b. When we ask for evidence all we get is crickets from the finger pointers. We are gaining on this. It takes time to rack up uoas. I have personally seen it help and now want to fine tune it. I'm not happy with odd noises from my engine. When running right I love how this 5.7 sounds with the borla catback. Ticking is embarrassing. The amount of trucks I hear out there with ticking motors is crazy high. Brand New ones too. Not everyone wants to throw $6500 at their truck to fix an obvious manufacturer defect.

On this very board guys have replaced lifters to still have the hemi tick, obviously some things are out of tolerance in that stream sometimes. I'm glad to have played a part in help a few guys get rid of their ticks anyhow. There is plenty of info on the board now, it is a legit answer for most of us.

 

[16RamHemi]

On this very board guys have replaced lifters to still have the hemi tick, obviously some things are out of tolerance in that stream sometimes. I'm glad to have played a part in help a few guys get rid of their ticks anyhow. There is plenty of info on the board now, it is a legit answer for most of us.

That's just Ludacris. Couldn't imagine. And you have brought up that very question....what engine out there is worth investing in? I love how my ram rides, handles etc. We have mostly all gm trucks at work, 13 different trucks from an 08 Sierra up to a couple new 2500 Sierra's. Our operations manager has a 17 1500 Silverado ltz. I have not driven in it much but I'd take my 14 ram any day over it. Just feels so awkward in the driver's seat. I do love nearly everything about my wife's 09 Yukon Denali. I'm actually heavily considering getting into an 09 Tahoe with the 6.2 if I come across the right opportunity. That's a bit away tho.
But to have a 5 year old truck with 80k miles with a bottom of the barrel rough country lift that rides as good as it does says a lot. So much so that my wife, who notices nothing about vehicles, comment so much about how nice my truck rides and drives after using it a couple times. Not to mention imo these 4th gens lifted are some of the nicest looking on the roads.

 

[tomb]

Help! I switched over to Red Line 5w30 in my 2017 Ram 1500 Hemi with a royal purple filter about 5k miles ago. Truck has 27k miles on it. Since it is starting to get cold here the last few weeks I have been getting a horrible load knock upon cold start up and it quiets down after about 3 seconds but you can still hear it a little bit until the engine is fully warm.

Do you think this can be from the oil? I never had this issue when I was running Mobile 1. Do you think I should go to 5w20 because of the cold weather? The knock has been bad at about 20 degrees.

Any help would be appreciated. Thank you!

Sent using Tapatalk

personally I would use the 20 weight in the winter for its ease of cold start-ups being thinner oil---if you like the 30 I would use it in the summer only--I just stick with the 5w20 all year as recommended---but there are loads of opinions when it comes to oil and weight.LOL!!!

 

[Cableman]

Heres my tick after sitting 2 days, temps were from 30s to 60 and 45 when i started it. I've had this in the summer also on the dealer oil/black Mopar filter. Seems to only happen after its sat more then a day.
Ive only had truck for 8 months and it has 9500 miles. 1st rp filter and redline 5w30. Maybe its the filter idk!

 

[Smokey613]

Ours does the same thing but not every time. It does not seem to be temperature dependant as it has happened from 26 to 76 degrees.

 

[Ashton]

For piece of mind I'd say use the correct mopar filter and the correct weight oil. Unless it is out of warranty and/or has issues. They can easily deny your warranty if you use a cheap filter or wrong weight oil.. I use a purolator filter and mobil/castrol oils in all my vehicles.. Never a problem. Personally I tell everyone to stay away from Fram filters. As far as intervals go the dealer is nuts to say you can go 10K miles on regular/conventional oil. I don't even do that with synthetic. These new engines are very sensitive compared to older engine (example pre 2006) with the tighter tolerances and cost cutting measures to use cheaper components. I don't drive far so i don't put much mileage on the truck but i do it every 5-6k miles and even sooner if towing a lot. Might seem as waste to some but i follow the SAE over what the dealer wants to me believe. What you have to understand is that the manufacturer has a formula for everything, they know that most issues won't present themselves until the mileage warranty is up. So they make these outrages claims that you can go 10K miles on an oil change to make it more alluring to you as a consumer to have less ownership costs. It has nothing to do what is right for the longevity of the engine. Also regarding mixing weights.. I wouldn't because it will just separate in the bottom of the pan after cooling and sitting for a while. I also wouldn't use use 30 weight oil unless its only used for work/towing with the mds shut off. It needs the 5w20 for the mds to work the desired/intended amount. For those having issues with the trucks already look into the CST ratings on the oil analysis charts on the brand's website and it comes down to trial and error really. Another point being there are basically 3 companies in north america that refine oil Shell, Exxon/Mobil and Petro-Canada, all other companies buy their stock from them so the only difference is the additives mixed in and in some cases like ac delco just print a different label on the bottle. Just my 2 cents hope this comes of use to some.

 

[ChevySlayer69]

Heres my tick after sitting 2 days, temps were from 30s to 60 and 45 when i started it. I've had this in the summer also on the dealer oil/black Mopar filter. Seems to only happen after its sat more then a day.
Ive only had truck for 8 months and it has 9500 miles. 1st rp filter and redline 5w30. Maybe its the filter idk!

Something that myself and many others on this forum have noticed is if you only start your truck for ~1 minute and shut it down without letting it warm up, the next time you start it regularly result in some lifter noise. I've avoided this condition by letting my truck warm up if I need to just move it to wash it or something. Haven't heard the noise in over a year.

 

[RamCares]

Heres my tick after sitting 2 days, temps were from 30s to 60 and 45 when i started it. I've had this in the summer also on the dealer oil/black Mopar filter. Seems to only happen after its sat more then a day.
Ive only had truck for 8 months and it has 9500 miles. 1st rp filter and redline 5w30. Maybe its the filter idk!

Hi Cableman,

If you end up deciding to address this with your dealer, our team is more than happy to provide you with an additional layer of support for that process. We are just a PM away.

Mark
RamCares

 

[Cableman]

For piece of mind I'd say use the correct mopar filter and the correct weight oil. Unless it is out of warranty and/or has issues. They can easily deny your warranty if you use a cheap filter or wrong weight oil.. I use a purolator filter and mobil/castrol oils in all my vehicles.. Never a problem. Personally I tell everyone to stay away from Fram filters. As far as intervals go the dealer is nuts to say you can go 10K miles on regular/conventional oil. I don't even do that with synthetic. These new engines are very sensitive compared to older engine (example pre 2006) with the tighter tolerances and cost cutting measures to use cheaper components. I don't drive far so i don't put much mileage on the truck but i do it every 5-6k miles and even sooner if towing a lot. Might seem as waste to some but i follow the SAE over what the dealer wants to me believe. What you have to understand is that the manufacturer has a formula for everything, they know that most issues won't present themselves until the mileage warranty is up. So they make these outrages claims that you can go 10K miles on an oil change to make it more alluring to you as a consumer to have less ownership costs. It has nothing to do what is right for the longevity of the engine. Also regarding mixing weights.. I wouldn't because it will just separate in the bottom of the pan after cooling and sitting for a while. I also wouldn't use use 30 weight oil unless its only used for work/towing with the mds shut off. It needs the 5w20 for the mds to work the desired/intended amount. For those having issues with the trucks already look into the CST ratings on the oil analysis charts on the brand's website and it comes down to trial and error really. Another point being there are basically 3 companies in north america that refine oil Shell, Exxon/Mobil and Petro-Canada, all other companies buy their stock from them so the only difference is the additives mixed in and in some cases like ac delco just print a different label on the bottle. Just my 2 cents hope this comes of use to some.

Mine definitely seems to be something with sitting and the oil all draining down to the pan. I don't think its the oil weight as its done it on 5w20 and in the heat.
I will try 0w20 redline and a frame ultra filter next time i i change it, hoping this oil will flow quicker at startup to eliminate the cold tick.
I don't have any other ticking going on other then this at times.

 

[Ashton]

Interesting are you using the mopar brand filter? I'm thinking that the filter housing is not holding the pressure allowing to bleed down, a good filter has an anti-drain valve in it. Most fancy synthetic filters don't have bypass valves in them as well. How many miles on this oil?

 

[Cableman]

Interesting are you using the mopar brand filter? I'm thinking that the filter housing is not holding the pressure allowing to bleed down, a good filter has an anti-drain valve in it. Most fancy synthetic filters don't have bypass valves in them as well. How many miles on this oil?

Mopar brand filter did it also, that was when i got it from dealer in march. I dont think it was a special filter just the regular one. Now with rp filter and redline 530 its happened a few times again. Only if it sits 2 days though from what ive noticed so far.
Somewheres around 500 on oil i think, id have to look.

 

[Burla]

I'd keep trying to find whatever oil is the best at all things, dry starts, cold starts, and hemi tick. You will have to start with 0 winter rating oils and then try a few different ones. Lubegard biotech with turn whatever oil you choose into something that can battle hemi tick and even dry starts, without the risk of a mos2 product. There are a lot of 0w20's that have the mercedes and porsche specs, this will have pao and good cold performance. The alternative is get a high flow oil pump, certainly no easy task. If it is "possible" to choose an oil that addresses all things, that certainly would be the best choice. Those knocking sounds shouldn't be ignored, it is at least a call to try a few oil/filter combo's.

 

[chrisbh17]

I'd keep trying to find whatever oil is the best at all things, dry starts, cold starts, and hemi tick. You will have to start with 0 winter rating oils and then try a few different ones. Lubegard biotech with turn whatever oil you choose into something that can battle hemi tick and even dry starts, without the risk of a mos2 product. There are a lot of 0w20's that have the mercedes and porsche specs, this will have pao and good cold performance. The alternative is get a high flow oil pump, certainly no easy task. If it is "possible" to choose an oil that addresses all things, that certainly would be the best choice. Those knocking sounds shouldn't be ignored, it is at least a call to try a few oil/filter combo's.

A while back I brouught up the possibility of Mobil1 0W-20 Extended Performance being a good Hemi oil. Unfortunately I dont think the comments went anywhere but interesting we're looking that way now.

0W-20 EP in particular, because it is supposed to have a high PAO count. Its kinda like 0W-40 in the standard Mobil1 line - a "diamond in the rough" so to speak.

I switched my wife's Lexus to it this year, from the Toyota 0W-20 (which gets its own good ratings). Havent noticed much difference, but its a Toyota so it can pretty much run on water.

 

[Cableman]

Good thing is its covered bumper to bumper till 2026, at that point it'll be 10 years old and prolly have 50k miles lol

 

[Ashton]

Has anyone every tried liqui moly? I've used it for numerous customer foreign vehicles, seems like good stuff. Made in germany and doesn't break the bank either

https://www.amazon.com/Liqui-Moly-2...hvlocphy=&hvtargid=pla-4584138863357408&psc=1

 

[Burla]

I don't know how that products works, but I do know it has zero moly, lol. Kinda funny considering the name.

 

[SyN]

A while back I brouught up the possibility of Mobil1 0W-20 Extended Performance being a good Hemi oil. Unfortunately I dont think the comments went anywhere but interesting we're looking that way now.

0W-20 EP in particular, because it is supposed to have a high PAO count. Its kinda like 0W-40 in the standard Mobil1 line - a "diamond in the rough" so to speak.

I switched my wife's Lexus to it this year, from the Toyota 0W-20 (which gets its own good ratings). Havent noticed much difference, but its a Toyota so it can pretty much run on water.

Chris: I think if I remember correctly @ one time.
Mobil made that 0W-20 just for Toyota and their specific specs.
I also remember it have a decent amount of Moly within the formulation -- Very High Quality Oil.