RedLine Engine Knock

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Ashton

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Chris: I think if I remember correctly @ one time.
Mobil made that 0W-20 just for Toyota and their specific specs.
I also remember it have a decent amount of Moly within the formulation -- Very High Quality Oil.

Some new Toyota's already require 0w16
 

Cableman

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30° and no cold start tick this morning, but i drove it the day b4.
Today while out black Friday shopping i grabbed qsud 0w20. Only have 500 miles on the redline, maybe ill drop it and leave rp filter for a test.
Does the qsud have more moly then the mobil 1 stuff?
Can i re-use the 500 mile redline oil in the wifes highlander? It takes 5w30 anyway, hate to waste it...
 

SyN

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Some new Toyota's already require 0w16

I don't own one - so what does that statement have to do with (at one time Mobil producing a 0W-20 oil specifically for Toyota)?

Just Curious ---- You quoted me!

Yup show me - any data or advertising stating 16W oils provide less engine wear compared to a 30Wt or 40Wt. You won't! Only talk of increased mpg.
 
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Burla

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As posted before here a few times, whoever makes it toyota 0w20 is one outstanding oil. Literally should be considered a real hemi friendly oil, uoa here.
 

Burla

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84 bucks a 12 case on amazon, and mind you 0w20 is a very stable synthetic oil. For you guys with cold piston slap who soured on the thick redlines and don't want to try their 0w20 which is also just as stellar as anything out there, look hard at genuine toyota 0w20 or the m1's or other top 0w20 oils. Remember why we choose redline 5w30 in the first place, mainly for hemi tick, and it is built thick as nearly every 40 weight out there in use, plus all the additives.

So of course this wont be the fastest running oil at start up, that would be a 0w20, and their 0w20 enjoys better cold pour points then most oils and is pao/ester based. So you need to seperate the issues to deal with the issues. If you don't have hemi tick but you have cold piston slap, you shouldn't be using 5w30 redline. The one weakness this forum had is we really found an answer for hemi tick with redline 5w30, but we didnt test all of the options getting there. It might be the case that there are oils that are just as good at killing hemi tick, but also are better at piston slap. I don't know anyone who has tried redine 0w20, or toyota 0w20, and it is very possible that either of those oils could in theory attack all three things plaguing the hemi, cold start, dry start, and warm idle hemi tick. We wont now unless guys with all three things try those oils, or other oils you might think are built to handle that condition.
 

Burla

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I haven't looked into all of the 0w20's for comparison, this piston slap is a newer deal for us, the m1 is impressive, but if I had piston slap and a hemi, I think I'd pay the extra for genuine toyota with all that moly. More moly then redline plus 0w20 performance. All 0w20's are either blends or synthetic, so just by the nature of what 0w20 does the oils are going to be high quality. The euro formulas might have something beneficial past that toyota oem.
 

Cableman

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I dropped the redline today and filled with the qsud 0w20, left the rp filter as it only had 500 miles!
Maybe my wife's highlander or my zeroturn gets the redline, cant waste it!

Edit: ill also check back and let you all know if its better on those cold starts.
 
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Ashton

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I don't own one - so what does that statement have to do with (at one time Mobil producing a 0W-20 oil specifically for Toyota)?

Just Curious ---- You quoted me!

Yup show me - any data or advertising stating 16W oils provide less engine wear compared to a 30Wt or 40Wt. You won't! Only talk of increased mpg.


Sorry didn't know i wasn't allowed to quote you. It was a statement since you mentioned a Toyota specific specs for 0w20. I figured i'd mention 0w16 as a possible oil as it may have other additives superior to 0w20. I never claimed it was better or had less wear.. Guess I'll just keep myself out of this thread.
 

ajs3

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Sorry burla, I'm a dinosaur, can get it. Go to their website. All the information on their products is there. If it's put in Porsche turbos it can't be all bad. I've been using it in my 2014 1500 and it has quieted the box of rocks hemi.

Sent from my XT1650 using Tapatalk
 

Smokey613

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This a somewhat lengthy video but has good information. Jump to 7:20 to get to the Blackstone comparison with Amazon synthetic.

 

Burla

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Burla

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at a minimum those two uoa's prove there is no commitment to moly for a company that is named liqui moly. Like RP with constantly changing moly levels, how can you trust it? Both just trace amounts more likely left over from the previous oil change. I'm pretty sure someone brought this up in syn thread like 4 years ago, I may be wrong but I think it was @SyN, dunno. Liqui moly additive, powdered moly in suspension is known to stop piston slap, however I'm not sure the juice is worth the squeeze, plenty of evidence at bob's that product does settle out in oil tank. Which is why I recommend trying lubegard's biotech first, oil soluble moly wont look like silver jello in oil tank.

third voa no moly, this is a voa so no trace left overs.

4th uoa again trace moly.

This is liqui moly's oil soluble treatment, sadly the sell the other one in the USA and this one is rare and expensive when you get it here.

s-l1600.jpg
 
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Smokey613

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at a minimum those two uoa's prove there is no commitment to moly for a company that is named liqui moly. Like RP with constantly changing moly levels, how can you trust it? Both just trace amounts more likely left over from the previous oil change. I'm pretty sure someone brought this up in syn thread like 4 years ago, I may be wrong but I think it was @SyN, dunno. Liqui moly additive, powdered moly in suspension is known to stop piston slap, however I'm not sure the juice is worth the squeeze, plenty of evidence at bob's that product does settle out in oil tank. Which is why I recommend trying lubegard's biotech first, oil soluble moly wont look like silver jello in oil tank.

third voa no moly, this is a voa so no trace left overs.

4th uoa again trace moly.

This is liqui moly's oil soluble treatment, sadly the sell the other one in the USA and this one is rare and expensive when you get it here.

s-l1600.jpg

Pretty expensive stuff.....

https://www.amazon.com/Liqui-Moly-1...t=&hvlocphy=9012940&hvtargid=pla-458086366748
 

Burla

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That's not the same stuff, Molygen has the oil soluble moly. Both say Motor protect, but the molygen is the newer technology whereas that is mos2 that I know of. You can read the description, most of liqui moly's stuff is mos2, but next gen is the newer oil soluble stuff, thus the name "next gen". I'm not saying which is more effective, because no doubt mos2 has it's fans. I'm just saying there is little to no risk using oil soluble moly and maybe some risk using powdered moly. Kyle has some luck with mos2, he had piston slap even on high moly redline, and that lessened it. So I'm not suggesting mos2 isn't effective, because it has been proven to be. However, if you can get the same result with oil soluble moly, I'd say that is the better way to go. Key word being "if".
 

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