RedLine Engine Knock

[Burla]

Anyhow, I'd just stick with lubegards biotech anyhow, you know that moly is banging and ester based. I'm not even sure molygen has moly as I haven't seen a uoa and we know they use other metals for their ep additives. Even Though molygen oils don't have moly, they do have something similar, so it is "possible" to have good results it is EP additive that is oil soluble. But why not go to something widely available and you know moly is effective = lubegard. Molygen is more of a hail mary imo, try what is known first, if they don't work, then throw the hail marry.

 

[Burla]

I post this not to show the green so much as to show it isn't the "standard" silver color liqui moly usually has, and it is clear. So no joke whatever is in this it is oil soluble.

 

[Smokey613]

Is this the correct stuff?

https://www.amazon.com/Liqui-Moly-M...ocphy=9012940&hvtargid=pla-405643251721&psc=1

 

[Burla]

Is this the correct stuff?

https://www.amazon.com/Liqui-Moly-M...ocphy=9012940&hvtargid=pla-405643251721&psc=1

Yup, and if you see the reviews you see why everyone is frustrated who wants to try this stuff. It ships from lithuania, lol. But, the reviewer said it does work, which follows the science of these types products. But over 50 bucks after shipping when lubegard is probably just as effective for 6 bucks.

 

[Smokey613]

I ordered some lubegard from Amazon earlier this week. I will give it a try on next oil change.

 

[Burla]

I ordered some lubegard from Amazon earlier this week. I will give it a try on next oil change.

Now, molygen oil can be bought easily here in usa, just their oil treatment is harder to find at a reasonable price. It is very likely the same stuff is in their oil, likely a soft metal oil soluble version of a EP additive.

I guess the new issue I see is no 0w20 molygen, and that may be what is needed for piston slap.

 

[Tim Garceau]

I added MS02 to my amazon synth, didn’t like the average Molyb count in that analysis. 150mL per 7 qts should help for the freezing starts.

 

[Burla]

This explains what you guys are dealing with best, look at the visc of oils in the cold. Look at the difference between 30 and 40 weights, now 20 isn't listed but expect the same difference for 20 weights. So running a different oil in a warm engine there are minute differences, but in the cold the difference are huge, meaning the oil isn't getting to the metal. It isn't a brand thing, it is a weight thing. 20 weights will give you the best chance to get oil there in the cold, or even dare I say 0w16. At 0 degrees the difference between 5w30 and 5w40 is like 200 viscosity difference, so 5w20 would also be around 200 viscosity thinner then 5w30 at that temp.

Even at the temps discussed like 20f or 20c, you see visc 100 difference, so well above zero there still are huge differences. Not until like 70C do we start to see leveling out.

 

[Burla]

@16RamHemi can at least see the why yes with that chart?

 

[chrisbh17]

So how many people would dump 1k mile old rl5-30 to change to 0-20 for winter/spring use?

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[cwendel]

Guys, you have lifter bleed down occurring. Happens when the lifters wear and they no longer hold pressure. Same happens when dirt starts to clog the orifices.
Fix is to stop trying to use thinner oil, that just causes other problems faster bleed down. Go to a heavier recommended oil such as 5W-30 or 10w30. Also, stop paying for redline oil. Royal purple makes a a great street product that has extra moly and is designed to provide the needed lube. I used it in a LS motor that had piston slap, it quieted it down and is still running at over 200000 miles. I did the same for a Mazda mx6 with the famous v6. Those motors were known for sticky lifters due to dirt in the oil. I used royal purple and fixed the problem, that I put over 40000 on before I got rid of it at 180000.
Thinner oil is not the key, better oil is the key. The manufacturers are using thinner oil for mpg, that is all. If you want the same, go thin. If you want life, stay thick.

2013 2500 6.7 cummins crew cab. white and stock as can be
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[16RamHemi]

@16RamHemi can at least see the why yes with that chart?

It makes sense. I'm just struggling trying to understand why last winter I had no issues. And I saw much colder temps on a consistent basis vs temps so far this winter.

@chrisbh17 that's a tough call. I'm having trouble dumping my oil with 3k miles. Nevermind 1k miles. Could you save and reuse it? You could even consider dumping half or so and then refilling the rest with 0w30. Half n half.

 

[Cableman]

I bought my truck in March with 5700 miles and it did this, i now have 9500. I don't think mines even broken in yet to have worn lifters.

 

[chrisbh17]

Yes, I can store the hardly used oil.

My question is, if the hot viscosity affects the sub freezing viscosity, wouldn't using any -30 oil end up with similar results?

We would need to go to a -20 oil to have a good affect, and if we are worried about moment of startup in cold weather we should want a 0-20 oil, no?

Which brings me back to the factory spec. They think 5w is ok for start-up, otherwise you know they would be all over specing 0-20 instead.

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[DILLIGAF]

What is the SRT filter part number ?

This is the one I use 5038041AA , I pick them up on amazon for 12$ Canadian when on sale.

 

[chrisbh17]

29 degree morning, truck sat since yesterday afternoon through the 30-ish degree weather. Even had a "oops" moment where I accidentally remote started the truck then shut it down immediately (which would normally turn into a really loud knocking for a few seconds after the next startup)

Sounds OK to me....no loud knocking, some very light ticking/tapping, but considering how cold the engine and oil were I think overall its probably OK.

 

[Cableman]

Is that still on 5w30?
Ill see how my 0w20 qsud does later tonight after sitting since sunday afternoon, will report back.

 

[chrisbh17]

Is that still on 5w30?
Ill see how my 0w20 qsud does later tonight after sitting since sunday afternoon, will report back.

Yes, 5-30.

 

[VB712]

I’ve switched back and forth between 5-20 and 5-30 redline. Only noticeable difference I can tell is the motor does get more noisy with miles on the oil with 5-20. I am cammed though so it’s a little different than a stock hemi

 

[Cableman]

2 days not started, no tick on start up, let run for 5min and shut down. Came back out an hour later to leave and i got a quick tick really short on start up! Guess ill monitor it some more. I will definitely try that toyota oil, just not yet. Ill put some miles on this qsud.