RedLine Engine Knock

[Sherman Bird]

Wow! Lots of brand references here ... and so much subjective chatter. The brand of oil matters so little... the API rating as to the requirements of the manufacturer is VERY important.... BTW: Walmart brand generic motor oil finished very high in an independent test a number of years ago. Viscosity integrity through temp and load tests was fantastic, etc. Wally world refuses to say whose top-tier oil is in their generic container, and I used it years ago and put 120,000 on an old Suburban using it.... never had a glitch.

The required weight of the oil (5-W20, etc) is critical as well. Down here in the sub tropics, we run 5-W30 in lieu of 5-W20 in the summer with no negative results. Most manufacturers show 5-W30 as hot weather alternative in their owner's manuals.

Brand of oil filters is another issue, too. I saw a demonstration at a tech show years ago where they disemboweled a half dozen leading named filters... What an eye-opener! Some of the top names make absolute CRAP! I'm a huge believer in factory filters. Nippendenso for my Toyota, Delco for my Chevy, MOPAR for my Dodge... and so forth. I've never had any problem doing that.... and some of the so-called super filters are a waste of money.

 

[Cableman]

So which 0w30 would be the go to with decent moly for us colder weather guys?

 

[Burla]

Wow! Lots of brand references here ... and so much subjective chatter. The brand of oil matters so little... the API rating as to the requirements of the manufacturer is VERY important.... BTW: Walmart brand generic motor oil finished very high in an independent test a number of years ago. Viscosity integrity through temp and load tests was fantastic, etc. Wally world refuses to say whose top-tier oil is in their generic container, and I used it years ago and put 120,000 on an old Suburban using it.... never had a glitch.

The required weight of the oil (5-W20, etc) is critical as well. Down here in the sub tropics, we run 5-W30 in lieu of 5-W20 in the summer with no negative results. Most manufacturers show 5-W30 as hot weather alternative in their owner's manuals.

Brand of oil filters is another issue, too. I saw a demonstration at a tech show years ago where they disemboweled a half dozen leading named filters... What an eye-opener! Some of the top names make absolute CRAP! I'm a huge believer in factory filters. Nippendenso for my Toyota, Delco for my Chevy, MOPAR for my Dodge... and so forth. I've never had any problem doing that.... and some of the so-called super filters are a waste of money.

This makes sense if you ignore the work of many many guys on this forum with many different brands of oil all posted over time dealing with the issues of our hemi's. In most applications, you are right, in most applications the dynamics are very forgiving that allows for the age old argument will a "special" oil formulation benefit me? API formulations are to guard against minimum quality and all they do is take stuff OUT of oil to satisfy low saps and di turbo's, and add low cSt's as well. How would that benefit an engine that has no such needs? FCA engineers built a hemi specific oil 0w40 PUP/SRT oil exactly different from the way API is driving everyone. High additive high viscosity oil, in a weight of oil that allows for more additives as 40 weights are less regulated. We have proved here at Ram forum over the last 8/9 years with nearly 100 guys that oil formulations matter more then in other applications, tht hemi's respond to different oil formulations like no other engine and it actually follows the science of lubrication. Hemi's knock on one oil and are butter smooth on another, this happens every week here. I invite you to follow the issue and listen to the many random forum members who have the same experience. All backed with uoa's.

 

[scott lass 18]

@Burla do you feel Mobil 1 0w20 is a good oil? I can get this oil at a good price at my Costco and was thinking of trying it this weekend. I will drain out the redline 5w30....just would hate to go back to Mobil 1 after seeing the benefits of redline. I just need to fix this start up issue. Is Mobil 1 a decent oil compared to Redline?

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well for years been using Amsoil 5w-30 in california cold mouths but thats 40 to 60 s no problem maybe 2 times hear noise 30 s but seems no problems mix 1/2 with 10-40 summer but I sit in slow traffic a lot this is why too ! allso have mds turn off and run 0n 91 oct 58,000 on it ! scary thing I was told guy had 115,000 vleves blown up was mds 5.000 repair hope doesn't happen to other s sucks right ! anyone see at idle 29 oil pressure now 34 on oil seems better to me !

 

[jmrec100]

For what its worth, I run Rotella Synthetic in my Jeep inline 6, 4.0L gas engine. Jeep has 338,000 miles, still running strong. Motor mounts are ragged but the motor is fine. Its a diesel oil but has more wear reducing agents in it. Been great. Just a suggestion. I was told by the Jeep forum I also am in. So what its worth. And Walmart best place to buy it. Its a Shell product.
I'm here on this forum because I'm looking to buy a Ram . Either a 2500 or 3500. Just looking for the pros/cons . I want to tow a RV trailer, 27 ft max

 

[pacofortacos]

The good stuff in the Rotella is being phased out too, if what I read is true.

 

[dgibson]

Here is the deal. Roller Cams have little needle bearings. If you use a ester based full synthetic (yes there is a diference) the needle bearings skate and will eventually cause lifter failure. The best option is the Pennzoil Ultra that is full synthetic but not ester based so it allows the needle bearings to have just enough friction to spin. Pennzoil Ultra 0W-40 is the factory fill fo the Demon. The base oil comes from Shells Helix foundation in Australia. (Not West Virginia's varnishing swill) It's called bearing skating and it affects even Harley Davidsons.

 

[JS4024]

You NEED to run 5w-20 ONLY! The clearances on the internals are tight. The oil isn’t moving like it should. Don’t believe the bull$hit some post on here about running thicker oil. Drove me nuts for years putting 5w-20 in a hemi until I spoke to a mopar engine designer at a car show......

 

[chrisbh17]

You NEED to run 5w-20 ONLY! The clearances on the internals are tight. The oil isn’t moving like it should. Don’t believe the bull$hit some post on here about running thicker oil. Drove me nuts for years putting 5w-20 in a hemi until I spoke to a mopar engine designer at a car show......

Did they change the clearances between 2016 and 2017? Because the 2016 manual said 5-30 is OK if you cant get 5-20. 2017 says 5-20 only, but I dont think they changed the engine in between those years......

 

[chrisbh17]

BTW if you Google it you will land on a post from Harley Davidson forum, which links to this document (a good read):

https://web.archive.org/web/2013041.../upload/dynamic/Diesel Engine Cam Galling.pdf

They tested the idea of "traction coefficient" preventing (or causing) galling on internals when there is a no load rolling condition. Oils with high traction coefficient fared much better, oils with lower traction coefficient showed galling much faster and they did negative tests to prove it still happened.

Over on BITOG they seemed to take it one (or a few) steps further, and eventually started talking about HTHS. HTHS being a measure of film strength, a higher film strength and higher traction coefficient kinda go hand-in-hand....the oil "sticks" to the metal, so when there is no contact or contact with no pressure, the film is still there and protecting (from things like galling)

So technically a synthetic being "more slippery" doesnt mean death to all engines. If you get a synthetic with a high traction coefficient (assuming high HTHS = high traction coefficient, you can use the HTHS test to find one), you are basically making "more slippery" a non-issue.